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Mazda RX-8 Problems and Solutions



  • audia8qaudia8q Posts: 3,138
    The gas can can be the cause...but Mazda has issued some TSB's to reflash the computer to address that issue. Have your local mazda dealer run your vin# to see if it needs to be done. If they give you a hard time, you can email me your vin number and I can run the number.
  • jwt8jwt8 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information, I will contact the dealer. :)
  • Took mine to the mazda service and it is driving much better. Balanced the tires ran the next update on it and as for the shake ordered new motor mounts. Pull has decreased quite a bit since the tire balancing. I had just had it balanced not even two weeks before. I don't regret buying it for those who wonder just make sure you have a decent service dept. They put the wrong oil in mine on the first change and now it is noted in my file to put in the oil recommended in the manual.
  • ukjimukjim Posts: 63
    I have an '04 with 6.8K miles, and had condensation in the right rear light cluster. I was going to try cleaning it out or warming the light with a hairdryer ( on low! ) but it has now gone away by itself.
    I had the problem during the winter ( live in RI) but since the weather warmed up it has disappeared. I suspect the cause may be the lock access that penetrates the light fixture, allowing moisture to enter.

    No problem with vibration. Just awful gas mileage. 18 MPG is a dream, even driven conservatively.
  • jim31jim31 Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I just installed a set of Tein lowering springs on my RX-8. They were suppoed to drop it 1.4" in the front, and 0.7" in the rear. I measured the wheel gap after installing the springs and the front only lowered 0.5" (from 2 1/8" to 1 5/8") and the rear measured exactly the same as stock. I took the measurements after I took the car hard down a windy road for approx. 20 kms. Is it normal for lowering springs to not lower the car immidiately? If so, how long does it take for them to set into their proper ride height? Thanks.
  • awyrwasawyrwas Posts: 4
    Has anyone been having problems with the stability control feature. Spring is here but the car spins completely out of control with a light dusting of snow. The stability control on the car is a joke. Would snow tires help? Just wondering. The care is unsafe in winter driving.
  • awyrwasawyrwas Posts: 4
    I'm with you bud. The company is terrible to deal with. Have you had any problems with it spinning out of control. If so, you may want to contact Washington DC. I have the number if you want. The next problem I need to tackle with them is the "RUSTING" on the brake drums. I will never be buying MAZDA again.
  • slayerslayer Posts: 10
    Well I just got my car back yesterday after some after-sales issues and the key/immobilizer thing. They managed to not tighten one of my wheel nuts causing it to fall off; fortunately as I was driving into my office park, so the security guard picked it up for me.

    Others have noted the whirring sound when the clutch is engaged in neutral at idle, but has anyone noticed gear noise when downshifting into 2nd (6-speed MT)? Also, someone mentioned here the clunk heard from the front wheels when pulling away after startup is the "ABS calibrating", but that sounds dubious to me and my mechanic agreed. Any clarification on this?

    Otherwise my service department seems pretty good. I had a chat with their rotary mechanic and he seemed to know a fair amount about the car and engine, so I'm feeling a little more relaxed.
  • lhesslhess Posts: 379
    my back brakes have popped twice. both times were after a car wash. washed it, moved it to the parking space for the night, and when backing up the next morning, it pops.

    most cars i've seen that have wheels that let you see much of the brake drums have rust.
  • lemmerlemmer Posts: 2,687
    I would take it back to the dealer and demand they replace your drum brakes with disc brakes. Don't worry if your new disc brakes show surface rust - it is normal for any car.
  • ukjimukjim Posts: 63
    Just a comment on the rusting issue.

    Unless you are talking about something very different, brake rotors are manufactured from high carbon steel and will "rust" very quickly( my old Volvo rotors would show "rust"after a car wash!), go into a dealer of any manufacturer and look at the rotors on the cars with disk brakes and I would guess you will see a film of oxidation, in my experience this is normal, and is not a safety issue.

    I would not take Mazda to task over this.

    Ps. there are other rotor materials, ie ceramic, used on very expensive performance cars that might not rust but why spend all that money for a car that doesn't perform that much better? :)
  • big_guybig_guy Posts: 372
    The RX-8 is a sports car with summer performanc tires on it. The stability control is not going to help much when the tires are not designed to handle the white stuff. If you want good traction when the snow is on the ground you need to run with dedicated snow tires. If you don't want to invest in snow tires then you need to ease off the throttle when turning while there is snow on the ground. This will greatly reduce the tendancy to "spin completely out of control". The RX-8 is only unsafe in winter driving when it is equipped with summer performance tires and the driver does not compensate for adverse road conditions.

    And those light dustings of snow in the early spring tend to be extremely slippery. The ground is usually a bit warmer and melts the initial snowfall. Then the snow keeps coming and freezes the melted layer to create very slippery conditions. An AWD vehicle with dedicated snow tires will have a tough time negotiating roads covered with black ice. ;)
  • awyrwasawyrwas Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info bud.... I realize your point. However, my previous car - Mustang 99 GT Convertible 8 Cylinder had the traction control feature - although I was driving with 17" wheels; Goodyear Gaterbacks... the thing wouldn't make it up a hill but it sure did its best in not fishtailing in slippery conditions... when that traction control light came on; it meant that it was doing its job in providing some stabliity. I think the other issue with the RX8 is its 50/50 balance rear and back... any suggestions on recommended snow tires???? Thanks.
  • mugster1mugster1 Posts: 34
    Has anyone had problems with their 8 backfireing when you start it up. When you rev you hear a bang.
  • My husband and I are looking at a used 04 RX8 with about 15K on it - what do I need to find out in terms of problems to look for or updates that were missed? Thanks and I have already learned alot reading all the posts!
  • dmatsdmats Posts: 1
    I just took my rx8 in to the dealer a SECOND time because of a strange rattling noise as I accelerate into and beyond the 2000 rpm range. It's only heard when in Drive, not park, and only when I accelerate.. At first, was told it was my heat shield and it was repositioned. This did not solve the noise problem. Today I was told that "this is normal for this engine." The serviceman informed me that the noise is indeed coming from the engine and he told me that the rx8 next to mine in the shop (there for oil change) has the same noise. I'm going to see if this is indeed the case. I'll let you know what I find out.
  • lhesslhess Posts: 379
    will tell you if there are outstanding recalls on the car?? My friend just bought a jeep and we did the carfax thing and it reported something to the effect that there were no unresolved or unserviced recalls (forgive me, i don't remember the exact report heading). Also, i would think that a mazda dealer could tell you similar info with a vin or looking at the car? I'm not 100% sure on either of these, but a call to a mazda dealer could decide it.
    I just bought a leftover, untitled 2004 (lots of those still out there) and got a really good deal (I feel). I shopped on e-bay and autotrader for used cars and it seemed that most with the options i wanted were in the 22K to 24K range (that's for a 6 spd, autos seem to be less) and i financed 21,500 on a new one. I don't have to deal with someone else's prior miles and I have a full warranty.
    I saw a few "new" 2004's had been listed on e-bay. you might look at those. Good luck, I love mine. loads of fun to drive!!!!!
  • jgorjgor Posts: 5
    I just picked up my 04 RX8 200k on odometer. While driving it home from the dealer the engine light came on. The dealer said the code indicated the catalytic converter was the source. They say that the converter may have been contaminated with fuel vapours.They are going to install a new converter
    When I picked the car up they told me not to shut off the engine and restart it if it was not completely warmed up. I have owned other Rotary cars before and never had this sort of problem.
    Any comments on these two issues?
  • cappy4103cappy4103 Posts: 48
    I located the following information at When I was shopping for new RX-8's, several cars had service stickers affixed to the hood of the car(s) in the engine compartment to indicate which recalls had been preformed. Used RX-8's might have the same stickers affixed to their hoods as well.

    Bulletins for 2004 Mazda RX8 2RTR-1.3L

    Service Bulletins
    TSB # Issue Date TSB Title
    0700204 MAY 04 A/C - Lack of Cooling or Temperature Fluctuation
    0101104 APR 04 Engine - Cranks/No Start
    0901104 APR 04 Windows - Rear Quarter Window Glass Lock Loose
    0900704 MAR 04 Antitheft System - Dome Lamp Flashes/Clicking Noises
    0900404 MAR 04 Interior - Tire House Trim Lifting
    0100104 FEB 04 Engine - Engine Cover Grommets Loose/Fall Off
    0200104 FEB 04 Suspension - Shock Absorber/Strut Replacement
  • mon1mon1 Posts: 2
    I've had the same problem, but think it is related to the transmission. It happened the first time when I was fully accelerating to get onto the highway. It happened around 2nd gear. Took it to the shop, they reset the computer. They car doesn't properly shift from 2 -3 -4 (auto tran) but only when fully accelerating. Had a MAZDA rep drive the car. He told me it was normal - the car has a "sport mode." He said if I didn't fully accelerate, then there wouldn't be the concern I've expressed (honestly, that is what he said to me)! So basically, as I said to him, I have a high performance sports car that I can't fully accelerate. I'm getting ready to file a lemon law claim. Car has been in the shop 3 times, and with no progress in solving the problem. It's 2005 with 5000 miles.
  • cheffiecheffie Posts: 2
    Hi - I've had my '04 8 for three months now - just noticed the air conditioner problem (air BARELY cool and, strangely, cooler on passenger side than driver's) last weekend when the weather hear in OH finally warmed up. What's the deal with fixing it and is it ever REALLY going to get fixed - also, has anyone tried pulling out the dipstick just until it un-seals from the sleeve in order to release the condensation that is making the oil/yogurt? Since this is where the condensation is occuring does it make sense to try to fix the problem there, too?
  • kestrel02kestrel02 Posts: 26
    I was thinking the AC in my new 8 was weak as well, but I finally discovered the problem, the mode setting. In my previous cars, having the mode set to come out at face and feet didn't make much difference to the AC volume or coldness, but it definitely does in the 8! Once I set it to come out of the top vents only I noticed a huge improvement in the air coldness and volume.
  • elaine6elaine6 Posts: 1
    strongly agree. I've a 04 RX8 and had the same problem during the past winter. I even had an accident because of this when it snowed all of sudden in the middle of March. Can anyone offer some help?
  • cheffiecheffie Posts: 2
    I tried the different mode settings (actually tried all of them) and a combination of different modes with both re circulated and fresh air. It was actually blowing warm air for a while - this could be a problem with the refrigerant. It is due for an oil change this week, so I will be asking the dealer about a few things (oil/yogurt, clutch noise when in idle, the stupidity of designing a rear defroster that is also an antenna so that the radio reception suffers when the window is icy...) I'll let everybody know what happens - either way.
  • cleekscleeks Posts: 3
    I have just hit 18000 miles and I am starting to hear more noise or rattle sounds from the passenger door or window area. Has anyone else had this occur? It seems to stop if I push on the door panel but that is only temporary. I also get a rattling sound from the rear view mirror. But that stops when I hold it for a second or two. Any suggestions on how to fix or what exactly is making the noise? thanks
  • stodiejastodieja Posts: 6
    the shutting car off before it is not warmed up is very true. if the car does not warm up fully then trying to start it again could cause a flooded engine i work on these cars and i have seen alot come in for flooding issues. you may want to ask your service personel to reflash your pcm for the concern of hard start lack of power i have also seen some converters fail because of flooding issues it is important to warm the car up fully even if you only drive it a short distance :)
  • stodiejastodieja Posts: 6
    the whirring sound you hear in nuetral is normal and will be there that is just how the gears inside mesh together nothing you can do to fix :)
  • I got a big problem with my RX8.
    When i try to get my car started last sunday during a heavy rain,
    the car starts but all the dash board light up and there was no
    power steering and the gear can't change when moving.
    The workshop guyz still can't figure out what wrong with the car!!
    Any advice would be greatly appricated.
    pls e-mail me
  • jgorjgor Posts: 5
    Thanks stodieja.
    The dealer replaced the catalytic conv. yesterday. The difference in the performance is like night and day. When the engine light was on the car would rev to about 6K and then start to lug. There must be a safety feature in the engine module program that restricts the RPM when the engine light is on.
    The dealer neglected to tell me this... They just told me that it would be OK to drive the car until the part was in. I had never experienced a hard starting problem with the car. But it had 300KMs on the car when I bought maybe the dealer had a problem with hard starting at some point.
    Any-way my car runs great now. I have about 1200KM on the car right now. I will be keeping a log of my fuel and oil consumption and, periodicly post the results.
  • jgorjgor Posts: 5
    This used to happen with the old RX,s going back as far as the RX 2's....Could be the trailing plugs are fouled.In the old days you could adjust the trailing distributer points. to correct the problem. Todays cars are electronic. So that leaves the trailing plugs.If thats is not the problem then the dealer will have to find out why....Because they just should'nt do the back firing thing anymore.
This discussion has been closed.