Welcome to the Avalon. Your case is a bit different. In mine, the fuel mpg resets at every refill. I thought, at first, that it reset after I zeroed the trip odometers, but not so. At my last refill, I sat at the pump for a minute or so and it didn't zero. As soon as I moved forward, it zeroed. If you like the fuel reset, you will also love the trip timer. It resets to zero every time you turn off the ignition. Goodbye to tracking your mpg for a long trip or timing your trip. Of course, I was told there is still pencil and paper. :mad:
That is exactly the color combination of my '05 LTD. Phantom Grey Pearl and Ivory Interior with the light color wood grain. It looks fantastic and that is not just my opinion but also the opinion of several different car wash people that drive it off the line to towel dry. Seriously it's a real eye catcher.
I just returned from vacation, W.Pennsylvania to Central Fla and back. Averaged 30.6 MPG at an average speed of 72 MPH with Laser Cruise all the way. 4 adults and luggage for a week in the truck along with 2 boogie boards and a giant cooler (my wife likes to pack the leftover food from the 'fridge in the condo and bring home).
While on vacation I had 2 complete strangers walk up to me in parking lots and asking how I liked my car (one had a 2002 Avy XLS and the other a Honda Minivan). They loved the color, the matching mud guards and the interior.
I used the Nav system exclusively and only had to check a phone book to get an address, much better than lugging a PC to check mapquest and obviously not something I could plan trip tix for when we had a spur of the moment idea to go somewhere for dinner or entertainment when looking through a newspaper for things to do. Would never have bought it on my own, now I wouldn't be without it, or the Laser Cruise.
do a lot of highway driving, so one of my favorite things is my little blue screen that says things like 27/28 mpg all the time, although the fact that it resets every fill up is probably my least favorite part of the car. Thought I might try keeping the ignition on but the engine off at my next fillup to see if I could trick it into not resetting. My actual range averages about 440 miles per 16 gallon fillup, but the computer displayed distance to empty has never read more than 395 miles on reset. Further the odometers are about 3-4% low, so that 97 miles shown on the odometer is actually 100 miles. But the speedo is right on and the calculated mpg is also correct if you add back the odometer error. And yes, stlmo, have had the computer magically reset itself in the middle of a tank, probably 3 or 4 times in 11000 miles.
Winter is coming and I wonder about the clearance for tire chains on my 2005 Avalon. I live in a snowy area (Pendleton, OR) in the Pacific Northwest and would appreciate any information that youse guys (gals) have regarding chains for winter time. It looks like the clearance is very low and the local tire guys do not have any information for my 05 Avalon. Thanks....Wes
Thanks for the detailed hitch installation instructions, maryj. I found a shop who is ready to install it at a good price -- but I'm giving him your post anyway.
ksairman, sounds like you got a great deal. Good for you.
And captain2, I agree. Toyota can't be blamed for salesmen excesses, although I'm sure if Toyota execs read this forum, they can't be pleased.
Let me explain straight-off that I am not a “software guy”. Any software solution, even if successful, would have taken me longer to do than the useful life of the car. I elected a direct and unsophisticated hardware “end run”, by simply building a timer circuit to operate the “enter” key on my behalf just after the warning screen appears at each turn-on.
Approximately 5.5 seconds (I had measured this time) after the key is turned on (or Smartkey button pressed), the despised “I agree” screen appears. Within a quarter of a second, my timer pulses the enter key and the display automatically switches to the map.
The 1" x 3" x 3/4" timer circuit is hidden in a cavity located under the seat heater switch. It is triggered by the power feed to the Nav controller, so as to operate at every turn-on. The contacts of a small DIP relay are run to the controller, which was disassembled to solder wires to the “enter” switch.
The warning screen still briefly appears, but I won’t notice it any longer.
If anyone is interested in the timer circuit shematic, or instructions for dissasembly and modification of the Nav controller, advise, and I will write a PDF file and post it.
Hi: The Touring in C&D had no VSC and was thus able to spin its tires at launch to maximize acceleration. If I'm not mistaken, the CR ran an XLS or a Limited with VSC which prevents wheelspin, yielding slower acceleration than a Touring (from a standing start), so it's difficult to say how much of the difference in acceleration was due to VSC intervention, and how much was due to the unleaded vs regular gas. As an estimate, the 12 hp difference between using regular vs premium is unlikely to accont for more than one or two tenths of a second. Regards, Deanie
Dandl, just finished installing the black guards and think they look fine. Neighbor came by when I was finishing and commented on how good they look. They seem to go well with the black side window trim & black license frames. Seems to me, and of course it is all subjective, that black ones seem to lean toward a sporty appearance and white ones a classy look. If I want to slightly change the look I might go get white, along with chrome plate frames. Guards were a super easy install; fronts screw into existing holes, rears call for 2 holes drilled per side plus 1 existing hole. I didn't put the center hole in the rear ones yet as I didn't want to remove the wheels. Will do this myself at the neighborhood shop 1st time they rotate tires. Back ones are plenty tight with 2 of the 3 screws in right now anyway.
I had parked my car in the Airport parking lot for 4 days. I had the same issue when I started it up on a very hot day it was blowing hot air. I have left the setting on automatic since I got the car in early July. I finally noticed that the A/C light was not on. Once I pressed that button it was immediately blowing cold air. I had assumed that if it left it on Automatic it would know that the AC had to come on to cool the cabin from 100 degrees to 75. I guess that might not be true
I notice that I am the first to reply to your "I Agree" post. Many of us have looked in vain for such a fix. Would you please make such instructions and material list available to this forum?
I believe the NavKit that Coastal sells does not work on the Avalon. It is specific to the Prius.I have been trying for the past week to get Coastal on the telephone to verify.
Has anyone relpaced a BMW 545 with the new Avalon, or have one as a second car? I would like a comparrison. I know it's apples and oranges, but I would like to know especially what people didn't like about the BMW.
Your last statement you have to qualify. Very few owners who do not keep there cars over 10 years or until the Navigation system breaks, and someone has to take off half the plastic dash board to fix it, busting a couple of clips and pieces in the process, which makes an annoying rattle when you drive over 40 mph so you have to see a psychotherapist because you shouldn't have bought it in the first place. Just kiddin.
A reporter is interested in speaking with former VW owners who switched to Honda, Toyota or Hyundai recently. Please respond to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, August 30, 2005 with your daytime contact info and a few words about your decision. Thanks, Jeannine Fallon Corporate Communications Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
gypsy13: hopefully, companies do read thru forums like this to get an idea of how abused we all can be. My only points are that these type of things happen all the time especially when you have car dealers trying to sell cars they can't get and are in high demand and it really becomes the buyers problem as well. Not too long ago, the same situation existing for Coopers, dealers taking orders at a discount for cars that they couldn't (or wouldn't) supply at the agreed on price, and confirming orders that would never exist, or 'by the way, we do have a car for you but it has this, this and that and now the price is___' . To my knowledge BMW (who owns Cooper), never did anything to discipline its dealers that for the first 18 months or so of the car' existence were actually getting several thousand over sticker on a $20k car! Acura did the same thing to a lesser degree with the first new TL's and I think Infiniti may be doing the same with the 'M' now. Honda did it many, many years ago with first Accords; Pontiac with the new GTO etc. etc. Since I always seem to want to buy 'new' high demand vehicles like this, I have contacted several mfgrs. directly over the years - generally the official position 'the dealers are independent businessmen and we have no control over what they do' - which is actually BS - because the reverse is not true - if there were dealers out there selling any vehicle too cheap the mfgr./distributor would be down on the offenders like a ton of bricks! Reading all these posts from a number of good folks which are nothing but horror stories of promises not kept, contracts not honored, bait & switch tactics etc. should be something that Toyota should concern itself with. That said, it has been going on in the car business for 100 years!
I'm interested in the Nav fix also. But does anyone know what the $99 Nav fix does to the $1000+ extended warranty that many of us have purchased? I'd hate to pay $0.1K just to find out that I'm now out another $1K.
Thanks for the update. I had already found the 'true' website by calling their 800 number. In fact, I ordered the side moldings for my Blizzard Pearl Avalon. Just got an e-mail saying they were shipped today. Hope they are easy to install!! Charlie
If Coastal Elecronics had a suitable product available, I would have purchased it. Would have saved me a lot of work.
My marketing instincts tell me that, if Coastal indeed had a product that would work for the 05-06 Avalon, or even one in development, they would be promoting it aggressively. Once the development costs have been committed, companies try to maximize sales. A common tactic is a “coming soon” sort of announcement, once development begins, to dissuade potential future customers from considering alternative solutions in the meantime.
Since there were no such indications from Coastal, I decided to seek a “back door” approach on my own.
Te best that can be said for my solution is that it works and anyone is free to copy it. I am sure someone else will discover or design a way to do it better, less complicated, or both.
Be aware that you will need to possess, or have access to, both some mechanical and electronics (precision soldering) skills.
File size is approximately 850K (lots of pictures). If anything is unclear, just post questions on this forum.
Regarding warranty questions. If your Navigator fails, and your Dealer discovers the wires soldered into the Nav controller, he can refuse to honor the warranty (for the Nav igator only, NOT THE ENTIRE CAR). If my Navigator ever fails, you can be sure I will remove the wires before presenting the car for diagnosis/repair. That is one reason why a neat soldering job is important. Warranty-wise, fitting the Coastal unit (if one were available) is no diffferent. The advantage is that it is easier to remove since you don't have to disassemble anything.
I presently drive a 2000 Chrysler 300M without php. I may consider the Avalon in about a year. I read that one or two other members here had a 300M previous to buying the Av. How would you compare the Avalon to the 300M as far as ride, roominess, quietness, handling, acceleration etc?
n0v8or, that was fantastic...a terrific and clear explanation. Thanks for posting it. Of course, if I tried that, I'd void not only the warranty, but my eyesight, patience and sanity. I hope you realize that by linking that terrific PFD explanation, everyone on this board is going to come to you to solve whatever electronic gremlins beset them. Do you work for NASA?
Hardly. I do receive their monthly technical briefs publication, but can only understand about 5% of the content. I'm a retired integrated circuit (a.k.a. microchip) engineer who is fascinated with cars. My employer's largest customers were Chrysler, Ford, GM, Hyundai, and/or their systems suppliers. They allow me to retain an office in their facility and have access to their labs, so I still go "to work" about 20 hours a week, to keep abreast of new developments and keep my mind from turning to mush. Glad to help, when I can, with elecrical questions. I still have some engineering contacts at automotive companies.
Many thanks for your comments. Had the oil changed at my local selling dealer yesterday. I asked about the filter change and was told they had the special wrench required. After reading your post, checked the oil and it is at least a quart low! I plan to drop by today and give them a chance to explain and rectify the problem. Thank-you! Probably wise for everyone to remind dealers of the 6.4 quart capacity.
I ordered an Avalon Ltd. July 5, 2005. Shortly, my salesman notified me the order had been placed and it would arrive at the dealer August 25, 2005. I was phoned yesterday and told the car arrived on time and would be ready for pick up at my convenience. I'm fond of Toyota's, the dealership, and my salesman. I have purchased several cars from the same person. Several folks I know shopped around' and then bought from the same dealer and salesman. I'm picking up the car tomorrow, Saturday. Limited, Blizzard Pearl, Ivory leather, NV, VD, CL, XM radio, carpets-mats,black mud guards and Limited wheels-chromed. Yesterday I e-mailed my salesman 'the list' of regularly discussed concerns. I requested their 'car prep' person inspect six items. Tire pressure, tail pipe alignment, plastic doors covering the radio and GPS to confirm they open, latch and are in alignment. Fog lights, confirm they are secure in the frame. Inspect the rear window and confirm there is no distortion. Seat cushions-inspect the seat cushion for accurate fit. I'd noticed corners of the seat cushion sometimes expose material such as foam padding and cloth. I made clear, my intent furnishing 'the list' was to be 100% satisfied just as I've been in the past. My salesman said he was going to walk 'the list' to the service department. He said he appreciated the 'heads up'. I expect the car to exceed my expectations and I'll let all of you know soon. Here's a touch of irony. Five weeks ago I broke my foot and it's in a cast until 9/6/05. My Wife has generously agreed drive the car for the next week or so!
Charlie, haven't tried yet but hope to tomorrow. I'm thinking it will work as a prior response from someone else indicated it would. Will let you know. Be sure & let us know about the side protection moldings as I would consider them if they seem OK.
As far as letting" my wife drive the new Avalon the next couple weeks while my broken foot mends. I think I'll get the car back. I'm sure of it. No doubt about it. Positively. I'm immediately selling my current, 135K miles, trouble free, '00 white pearl Avalon (yes, the new Avalon is the same color combo). My buyer is lined up. the 'old' car has been detailed. The trunk is empty and the gas tank is full. I suppose, I may be forced to drive my wifes '01 Lexus RX300 from time to time. For those who 'like' cars but really 'love' their spouse, remember this 'vow'...What's mine is hers and what's hers is hers. Well, at least thats how I recall the words I said 31 years ago when we wed.
I change my own oil and do not have a 'special' tool - the inside 'ring' is removed first with a rachet extension and then drained with the plastic plug provided with the filter. You are then left with an empty filter cartridge that does accommodate an available size of a cap style wrench that also fits the rachet handle - have also found that an adjustable 'rubber' band type wrench will work. The filter assembly can be tight because on reassembly the cartridge will turn as you tighten the inside ring with the rachet extension. Actually turns out to be a neat, clean way to change oil. Made the mistake a couple of weeks back of taking the car to a 'Kwik Lube' because I didn't have time to do it myself and taking it back to the dealer would mean being without the car all day. $66.00 5W synthetic with me providing the filter! Not only that but I ended up down in the pit with the idiot to explain to him how it worked. I told him 6.4 quarts, not believing me he put 5 back in, kept adding more until he got it right but only because I'm watching! He did not have a 'special' tool either and was not old enough to remember cartridge type filters, either. The 'maintainence req'd' light is easy enough to reset, but don't use the 5000 mile interval - stick with 3000 miles. Does anybody know if there any aftermarket suppliers yet for the oil filters and wiperblades?
Is your ordered vehicle a 2006? If so, please let me know what they are now using for an XM antenna, mounting location, and have they made any changes to the radio to be able to get more than 10 characters on the radio display.
I've been reading this forum for over 3 months now and I'm proud to say that I now am the owner of a 2006 Blizzard Pearl Avalon. I had originally ordered an 05, but after a few weeks, told the dealer that I would wait for an 06. He found my car with NAV, Remote Start, DLCC, VSC, Matching Mudguards, and Tinted Windows and sold it for the same price he had quoted the 05. He discounted it a little over $3800.
I want to say "Thanks" to Mac and Ken and all the other posters who have given so much valuable information. I look forward to driving this car for years to come, as well as keeping up with things on this forum.
I traded my 2000 Chrysler 300M without php, for new Avalon XL. My biggest regret is that I didn't get much in trade for my 300 (8500 and in mint condition with 50000 miles) and paid MSRP for Avalon. This was back in Feb. My 300M was on the lot with a asking price of 11999 and was sold within two weeks. Not sure what they finally got but it was a lot more than trade in $. I didn't like the new 300 and did like the design of Avalon. My wife also has had 3 Toyota Camrys with no problems. The Avalon is bigger inside, much quieter and acceleration is great. I do miss the 300M style but this car has an elegance that I like.
This message is a reply to 'oldgrumpy'. It seems we both fit the Avalon buyers profile. We are both 'mature' buyers. It's 4:55 PM California time. I have an appointment to pick up the Avalon tomorrow (Wife is driving both ways). I had a phone call from my salesman today. The Ltd's chrome wheels and mudguards have arrived. He is inspecting each detail about which I expressed concern, prior to my arrival. The car is an'06 model. I will describe later the XM antenna mounting location and the radio display as you've requested.
Excellent document. I have been researching the way other Toyota owners (Sienna, Prius) have done a similar mod. Based on my findings, and perhaps you have the same conclusion, I don't think it would be difficult for an EE to design a circuit to not only mimic the ENTER key press, but to fool the NAV computer into believing it is stopped and hence allow for a passenger to enter destination information (the other annoying "feature" created by trial lawyers).
Many Sienna owners discovered that there is a speed sensor cable going into the NAV unit. When the speed sensor is grounded, or opened, the NAV computer thinks you are stopped and allows you to enter destination info until the GPS tells the NAV computer your position has changed. You only get about 15 seconds after the interruption. Some people have simply installed a DPDT switch so that they can manually interrupt the circuit every 10 seconds or so while they are entering destination info. Others have built a timer circuit to do the same thing.
My thought is that coastalETech has designed a circuit that does both. First, since it connects at the NAV computer, it must detect when power is applied, and then after the five seconds send a signal which is the same as generated by the ENTER key - this removes the 'I Agree" annoyance (similar to your approach, but sending a signal rather then closing the switch). It then monitors and detects when the DEST key is pressed at which point it interrupts the speed sensor as described above. Once the MAP button is pressed, it puts everything back to normal.
Two main obstacles have prevented me from doing something. First, I'm not an EE and don't have the skills or equipment to diagnose, trap, and mimic the signals coming from the NAV controller to the NAV computer. Nor do I have the skills to design such a circuit as I described. Secondly, I have never been able to source the connectors coastalETech uses to make it a "plug and play" solution by connecting into the NAV computer in the trunk.
As annoying as the trial lawyers are, I'm not annoyed enough to go back to school or create my own plastic injection molding factory. CoastalETech is capable of doing this, they have designed some very brilliant solutions, but based on my experience with them, they are a very mom and pop operation (perhaps running out of the trunk of their Prius in Indialantic, Florida). The NAV units in the 05 Avalon and 05 Prius are the same, with slightly different software, but the connectors are the same. I wouldn't be surprised if they would work in the Avalon, but CoastalETech can't even produce quantity for their Prius customers.
The entrepreneur in me says you can sell such a solution to Avalon owners for maybe $150 per pop. I doubt even low volume manufacturing costs would push $50 and I expect over the life of '05, '06, and possibly '07 Avalons you could sell several thousand of them on eBay and forums.
You have definitely come closest to the holy grail, any other thoughts?
I just completed a 2600 mile round trip from the pacific NW to southern Calif. A few details: * Temp 90 deg to 100 deg F. * Ran A/C 95% of time. * Used Premium fuel. * Set LCC @ 75- 85 mph. * Radar detector operational. * Fully synthetic oil 5W-30. * Nitrogen filled tires to 33 psi. * Car loaded back seat and trunk. * Acrylic protective lens installed in front of LCC.
Results: Averaged right @ 30 mph. High of 33.9 and low of 27.9 (in mountains). Got 95% of premium fuel @ COSTCO. Ate up a BMW and couple of other sport cars on the way just for fun.. Only complaint is the high sensitivity of the LCC (responds too aggressively to braking and acceleration) and too much nose diving of the front end over dips in I-5. I do believe I got better mileage with the synthetic oil + additional protection in the hot weather. I was able to remove (snaps out) the plastic bumper portion in front of the parking light and LCC. I then cut a rectangular piece of acylic .093 thick about 1/4" larger than then rectangular opening in front of the LCC. I used duct tape to tape the edge of the acrylic lens to the rectangular opening in the removed plastic bumper and reinstalled/snapped back in the plastic bumper. Works great- no faults during whole trip. Acrylic protective lens is located approximately 1/2" in front of LCC face. Easy fix to a potentially expensive repair!">
I would think it might be better to silicone the protective plastic piece onto the opening edges to keep out moisture which could fog up plastic piece.
My fiance has just leased a 2006 Avalon with the Navigation system. We cannot, for the life of us, find where the display is for the outside temperature reading. Manuals are not clear with NAV. I would think it exists...Where can we find it?
Hi there.. I had the same sort of shuddering....on my new '05 XL, (less than 100kms) 70-80kmph low revs about 1400rpm in top gear in "D"... I have been able to repeat it on slight grades but not when I take it to the dealer, they can not see/feel the problem..
Comments
If you like the fuel reset, you will also love the trip timer. It resets to zero every time you turn off the ignition. Goodbye to tracking your mpg for a long trip or timing your trip. Of course, I was told there is still pencil and paper. :mad:
Seriously it's a real eye catcher.
I just returned from vacation, W.Pennsylvania to Central Fla and back. Averaged 30.6 MPG at an average speed of 72 MPH with Laser Cruise all the way. 4 adults and luggage for a week in the truck along with 2 boogie boards and a giant cooler (my wife likes to pack the leftover food from the 'fridge in the condo and bring home).
While on vacation I had 2 complete strangers walk up to me in parking lots and asking how I liked my car (one had a 2002 Avy XLS and the other a Honda Minivan). They loved the color, the matching mud guards and the interior.
I used the Nav system exclusively and only had to check a phone book to get an address, much better than lugging a PC to check mapquest and obviously not something I could plan trip tix for when we had a spur of the moment idea to go somewhere for dinner or entertainment when looking through a newspaper for things to do. Would never have bought it on my own, now I wouldn't be without it, or the Laser Cruise.
I found a shop who is ready to install it at a good price -- but I'm giving him your post anyway.
ksairman, sounds like you got a great deal. Good for you.
And captain2, I agree. Toyota can't be blamed for salesmen excesses, although I'm sure if Toyota execs read this forum, they can't be pleased.
Approximately 5.5 seconds (I had measured this time) after the key is turned on (or Smartkey button pressed), the despised “I agree” screen appears. Within a quarter of a second, my timer pulses the enter key and the display automatically switches to the map.
The 1" x 3" x 3/4" timer circuit is hidden in a cavity located under the seat heater switch. It is triggered by the power feed to the Nav controller, so as to operate at every turn-on. The contacts of a small DIP relay are run to the controller, which was disassembled to solder wires to the “enter” switch.
The warning screen still briefly appears, but I won’t notice it any longer.
If anyone is interested in the timer circuit shematic, or instructions for dissasembly and modification of the Nav controller, advise, and I will write a PDF file and post it.
The Touring in C&D had no VSC and was thus able to spin its tires at launch to maximize acceleration. If I'm not mistaken, the CR ran an XLS or a Limited with VSC which prevents wheelspin, yielding slower acceleration than a Touring (from a standing start), so it's difficult to say how much of the difference in acceleration was due to VSC intervention, and how much was due to the unleaded vs regular gas. As an estimate, the 12 hp difference between using regular vs premium is unlikely to accont for more than one or two tenths of a second.
Regards,
Deanie
Greg
http://www.coastaletech.com/nav_kit.htm
Thanks for the help.
I don't have an Avy yet (soon, soon...) but would also love to see n0v8or's solution posted here.
Max
Greg
abfisch
Thanks,
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Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Reading all these posts from a number of good folks which are nothing but horror stories of promises not kept, contracts not honored, bait & switch tactics etc. should be something that Toyota should concern itself with. That said, it has been going on in the car business for 100 years!
My marketing instincts tell me that, if Coastal indeed had a product that would work for the 05-06 Avalon, or even one in development, they would be promoting it aggressively. Once the development costs have been committed, companies try to maximize sales. A common tactic is a “coming soon” sort of announcement, once development begins, to dissuade potential future customers from considering alternative solutions in the meantime.
Since there were no such indications from Coastal, I decided to seek a “back door” approach on my own.
Te best that can be said for my solution is that it works and anyone is free to copy it. I am sure someone else will discover or design a way to do it better, less complicated, or both.
Be aware that you will need to possess, or have access to, both some mechanical and electronics (precision soldering) skills.
Instructions are posted at http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/nav_controller_mod.pdf
File size is approximately 850K (lots of pictures). If anything is unclear, just post questions on this forum.
Regarding warranty questions. If your Navigator fails, and your Dealer discovers the wires soldered into the Nav controller, he can refuse to honor the warranty (for the Nav igator only, NOT THE ENTIRE CAR). If my Navigator ever fails, you can be sure I will remove the wires before presenting the car for diagnosis/repair. That is one reason why a neat soldering job is important. Warranty-wise, fitting the Coastal unit (if one were available) is no diffferent. The advantage is that it is easier to remove since you don't have to disassemble anything.
Glad to help, when I can, with elecrical questions. I still have some engineering contacts at automotive companies.
Yesterday I e-mailed my salesman 'the list' of regularly discussed concerns. I requested their 'car prep' person inspect six items. Tire pressure, tail pipe alignment, plastic doors covering the radio and GPS to confirm they open, latch and are in alignment. Fog lights, confirm they are secure in the frame. Inspect the rear window and confirm there is no distortion. Seat cushions-inspect the seat cushion for accurate fit. I'd noticed corners of the seat cushion sometimes expose material such as foam padding and cloth.
I made clear, my intent furnishing 'the list' was to be 100% satisfied just as I've been in the past. My salesman said he was going to walk 'the list' to the service department. He said he appreciated the 'heads up'. I expect the car to exceed my expectations and I'll let all of you know soon.
Here's a touch of irony. Five weeks ago I broke my foot and it's in a cast until 9/6/05. My Wife has generously agreed drive the car for the next week or so!
Have you had an opportunity to test the Laser Cruise Control since you installed the protective film over the lens? Charlie
Made the mistake a couple of weeks back of taking the car to a 'Kwik Lube' because I didn't have time to do it myself and taking it back to the dealer would mean being without the car all day. $66.00 5W synthetic with me providing the filter! Not only that but I ended up down in the pit with the idiot to explain to him how it worked. I told him 6.4 quarts, not believing me he put 5 back in, kept adding more until he got it right but only because I'm watching! He did not have a 'special' tool either and was not old enough to remember cartridge type filters, either. The 'maintainence req'd' light is easy enough to reset, but don't use the 5000 mile interval - stick with 3000 miles.
Does anybody know if there any aftermarket suppliers yet for the oil filters and wiperblades?
I want to say "Thanks" to Mac and Ken and all the other posters who have given so much valuable information. I look forward to driving this car for years to come, as well as keeping up with things on this forum.
Koondog
The Avalon is bigger inside, much quieter and acceleration is great. I do miss the 300M style but this car has an elegance that I like.
Many Sienna owners discovered that there is a speed sensor cable going into the NAV unit. When the speed sensor is grounded, or opened, the NAV computer thinks you are stopped and allows you to enter destination info until the GPS tells the NAV computer your position has changed. You only get about 15 seconds after the interruption. Some people have simply installed a DPDT switch so that they can manually interrupt the circuit every 10 seconds or so while they are entering destination info. Others have built a timer circuit to do the same thing.
My thought is that coastalETech has designed a circuit that does both. First, since it connects at the NAV computer, it must detect when power is applied, and then after the five seconds send a signal which is the same as generated by the ENTER key - this removes the 'I Agree" annoyance (similar to your approach, but sending a signal rather then closing the switch). It then monitors and detects when the DEST key is pressed at which point it interrupts the speed sensor as described above. Once the MAP button is pressed, it puts everything back to normal.
Two main obstacles have prevented me from doing something. First, I'm not an EE and don't have the skills or equipment to diagnose, trap, and mimic the signals coming from the NAV controller to the NAV computer. Nor do I have the skills to design such a circuit as I described. Secondly, I have never been able to source the connectors coastalETech uses to make it a "plug and play" solution by connecting into the NAV computer in the trunk.
As annoying as the trial lawyers are, I'm not annoyed enough to go back to school or create my own plastic injection molding factory. CoastalETech is capable of doing this, they have designed some very brilliant solutions, but based on my experience with them, they are a very mom and pop operation (perhaps running out of the trunk of their Prius in Indialantic, Florida). The NAV units in the 05 Avalon and 05 Prius are the same, with slightly different software, but the connectors are the same. I wouldn't be surprised if they would work in the Avalon, but CoastalETech can't even produce quantity for their Prius customers.
The entrepreneur in me says you can sell such a solution to Avalon owners for maybe $150 per pop. I doubt even low volume manufacturing costs would push $50 and I expect over the life of '05, '06, and possibly '07 Avalons you could sell several thousand of them on eBay and forums.
You have definitely come closest to the holy grail, any other thoughts?
Roski
* Temp 90 deg to 100 deg F.
* Ran A/C 95% of time.
* Used Premium fuel.
* Set LCC @ 75- 85 mph.
* Radar detector operational.
* Fully synthetic oil 5W-30.
* Nitrogen filled tires to 33 psi.
* Car loaded back seat and trunk.
* Acrylic protective lens installed in front of LCC.
Results: Averaged right @ 30 mph. High of 33.9 and low of 27.9 (in mountains).
Got 95% of premium fuel @ COSTCO. Ate up a BMW and couple of other sport cars on the way just for fun.. Only complaint is the high sensitivity of the LCC (responds too aggressively to braking and acceleration) and too much nose diving of the front end over dips in I-5. I do believe I got better mileage with the synthetic oil + additional protection in the hot weather.
I was able to remove (snaps out) the plastic bumper portion in front of the parking light and LCC. I then cut a rectangular piece of acylic .093 thick about 1/4" larger than then rectangular opening in front of the LCC. I used duct tape to tape the edge of the acrylic lens to the rectangular opening in the removed plastic bumper and reinstalled/snapped back in the plastic bumper. Works great- no faults during whole trip. Acrylic protective lens is located approximately 1/2" in front of LCC face. Easy fix to a potentially expensive repair!">
NWBLIZZARD
Do you have any news (or solution) on yours.?
cheers CD
[note: we use metric here in Dubai]
cheers CD