Congratulations, the 06 seems to have missed a lot of problems from the first year 05 model change. I've thought of leasing but it seems to go against my consumer instincts. My son leases but writes it off as a company expense, that I would do. My Michelins are pretty quite but the Dunlops on my previous Camry were more so, also with a 10,000 mile rotation they got 50,000 miles with still a lot of tread and were reasonable, consider them. Why an off button for the VSC/Trac, just curious, I also have not had any tranny problems but I have less than 4000 miles. One does not have to be a senior to enjoy a large, powerful vehicle. As I stated before I probably will not buy another, I barely get the mirrors through the garage door but so far it has been decent transportation and I average 20 or so around town, again good luck to you and all.
A loose rolling object is moving from side to side below the driver’s seat.
These instructions are accurate as best as I can recollect. I performed this “repair” over a year ago, so some disassembly/reassembly details may not be 100% exact, but the overall method is correct.
Problem Description: Sounds like a ball bearing, marble or similar. The rolling sound can be heard when turning corners or when the road changes angle or goes up an incline. When the rolling object hits an obstruction, the impact can be felt in the driver’s seat.
Repair: Estimated 2 – 3 hours. The driver’s seat is mounted on a square hollow steel tube that runs transversely beneath the floor. The object is trapped in the cavity of this steel tube. Various unsuccessful attempts were made to vacuum the object out, or to remove it using telescopically mounted magnets, however the object is very inaccessible in the tube. The following describes the method used to encapsulate and immobilize the object using expanding foam insulation. This may sound scary but it works and the relief is well worth it. Perform the procedure below with the vehicle on a level surface. 1. Obtain a can of “Great Stuff” Insulating Foam Sealant (Red can) from Home Depot, gloves and some children’s playdough. 2. Remove “AVALON” stainless steel/plastic scuff-plate from the lower aperture of the driver’s door. This is relatively easily done by initially using your fingers by prying the scuff plate upwards for the full length of the plate, and then GENTLY lifting it upwards using a screwdriver, so the plastic clips release from their retaining holes in the bottom of the door aperture. Don’t pull at an angle and be gentle otherwise the clips will break. 3. Move the carpet inwards from the door aperture and underneath the seat so the carpet can be more easily moved. 4. Power the driver’s seat forward and upwards to its fullest extent. 5. From the rear seat and behind the driver’s seat remove the plastic cover over the lower seatbelt anchor in the left door pillar by sliding it backwards. 6. Remove the bolt retaining the seatbelt anchor. Secure the seatbelt so it does not retract excessively into the inertia reel of the seatbelt mechanism. Warning: If it does retract excessively, it will be EXTREMELY difficult to release the seatbelt again without removing the inertia reel assembly. 7. Remove the lower plastic cover from the left door pillar. It is secured with plastic clips. This is also relatively easily done without breaking the plastic clips by prying the cover away starting from the bottom and then gently using a screwdriver to lever the cover away. It may not be necessary to completely remove the cover, but sufficiently to release the carpet. 8. Remove the plastic covers from the two mounting rails (left and right of the seat) behind the driver’s seat, exposing the bolts that secure the mounting rails to the floor of the vehicle. 9. Remove both bolts, one from each rail. 10. The carpet should allow some movement at this point. From the driver’s door, reach backwards below the carpet and you will feel the square transverse tube that the driver’s seat mounts on. There is a very small opening at the front of the tube where it meets the door pillar, 11. Plug the opening using the children’s playdough, 12. From the rear left door, reach forwards underneath the carpet and locate the transverse tube. There is a small opening at the back of the tube where it meets the door pillar. 13. Plug the opening using the children’s playdough, 14. From inside the vehicle behind the driver’s seat, reach under the driver’s seat through the hole in the carpet where the lower air vent protrudes and find the right-front of the tube where it meets the longitudinal tunnel where the console is mounted. Locate the small opening at the front of tube and plug the opening with playdough. 15. Tilt the driver’s seat upwards and forwards so the mounting rails are off the carpet. Position the carpet so that the boltholes (threads) in the floor that secure the mounting rails are visible and accessible. 16. WARNING: No smoking or exposed flame from this point on. Great Stuff fumes are inflammable when the product is being dispensed. Please read product warnings and directions. 17. Put on the gloves, place the straw nozzle of Great Stuff inside the bolthole and slowly discharge about 1/3 of the can into the cavity. WARNING: Great Stuff expands, so if too much is discharged, it will start to ooze out beneath the carpet and into the street and the rest of the neighborhood devouring everything in its path like the 1958 movie “The Blob”. The playdough should contain the foam within the tube below the floor, otherwise excessive foam should be quickly removed. Avoid getting foam on any carpet, fabric or leather surface. It is very sticky when wet, but when it dries it is becomes porous, semi-rigid foam, which can be cut away if necessary. 18. Quickly insert both bolts back into their threads and tighten to prevent the foam from escaping through them and also to prevent the threads from becoming contaminated with foam, which may make reassembly difficult. 19. After about 45 minutes the foam should be set. Remove the bolts and reassemble the seat anchors, door pillar cover, seatbelt and scuff plate. 20. The rolling object should now be encapsulated and immobilized in the foam.
Not that we get a lot of snow in New Jersey, but in the event you get stuck Trac will not let you "rock" the vehicle out. It just fights you. There is a way to disable it via an insane list of commands and I keep a copy in the glovebox just in case.
Good answer but I have never had an occasion to rock a vehicle and I drove to Manhattan for 38 years, rain, sleet, snow. I live in Orange County, our last snowfall was over 10 inches, being retired now I don't do snow.
I took my 05 Avalon in last week to have the steering knocking problem looked at. The dealer immediately recognized the problem as one that is common to many Avalons. That is a faulty steering shaft and u-joint assembly. It was replaced and the problem fixed. Also, I asked them to examine the much talked about transmision hesitation problem. They said that they reset the codes to factory specs and that that should do it. However, as I left the dealership as they closed, I noted that the problem still persists. I would have thought by now the boys that design these things would have sorted this out and a software fix would have been isssued. But No Such Luck.
There is a real danger in that at a yield as you drop to the 5 to 7 mph range the transmission disengages and you are essentially in neutral for about 2 to 4 seconds. As you depress the accelerator the RPM's rev up but the transmission fails to engage. After the beads of sweat begin to emerge and the knuckles begin to turn white the transmission engages and away you go. This usually happens when the Tach hits about 1850 to 2000 RPM. So till they get it right or issue a service bulletin for a correction, beware of the dreaded 5 - 7 mph dead zone (unless you like cheap thrills) and drive accordingly.
weavercity; I just sold my 06 Limited--tired of having to operate the automatic in the manual mode to ensure that wne I stepped on the gas---the wheels turned instead of the RPM's shooting over 3,000 and then the inevitable lurch and off she went. I wrote to both Toyota and the NHTSA--nothing--I just hope it doesn't require a few serious injuries or death's to make something happen. It is a shame the Avalon is so fraught with problems that Toyota says do not exist. Sounds like GM, Chrysler and Ford in the 60's, 70's, 80's and 90's--womnder how they're doing in the car busisness--mmmmmmmm? Good luck in getting your car put right--me--I was tired of the issues. Bob
I just got a new 2007 Avalon Limited, I asked about the gold pkg, and was informed it's no longer available. I checked E-Bay and found 2005/2006 Toyota branded gold emblems, question? is there any differance in the size of Grill/Truck oval "T" on 2007? It appears the same but I want to be sure before I order it. Thank You for any response>
It is 1st.toyotaparts.com but I did a search with what I gave you just for Ha Ha's, it was the second site on the list. Most search engines will give you at least 100 or more examples if you are even close, try it. See below.
2. 1st Toyota Parts - Discount Toyota Parts & Accessories below wholesale 1st Toyota Parts - 1st for Price, Service, & Selection! Home. OEM Parts Catalog ... To help us achieve this goal, please include your VIN number when ...www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html - 37k - Cached - More from this site
With respect to your "body flex" pop: I had a similar problem with my '06 Avalon and the dealer took the headliner out and found that one of the body seams was not properly sealed. They sealed the seam and the problem went away.
Help, I'm shopping to replace my 98, 184k Avalon with an '06 or '07 Avalon. Haven't driven one yet. I've been busy eliminating cars that are very reliable AND have great front and rear legroom-- DeVille's, Accord's, Pacifica's, Maxima's and the Lucerne. The Lucerene drives great. Worried about its reliability compared to what I've experienced with my '98 Avalon. Anyone out have the transmission problems in the 2005-2007 Avalon? Of those that did, any of you buy a Certified car or an extended warranty? If so, did your warranty cover the problem? Would you buy your Avalon again? It appears that the problem plagues mainly the Limited. True? Thanks. --Augi
I have an 06 Avalon Limited, bought new,have had transmission hesitation and rough shifting since 200 mi. Having had 2 Cadillac Devilles I suggest you go there, theyre a lot more comfortable and powerful an smoother. The Lucerne drives good and if I were choosing between the Lucerne and the Avalon I would choose the Lucerne and save about $7,000 and would have a car that's as good if not better than the Avalon. No, I'm not a Toyota basher, I have a 1994 Toyota pick-up from new, it's been great. The partI dislike is Toyota keeps saying the Avalon is performing the way it was designed to perform...go figure. I have a pending lawsuit for a buy back. I'll let you know when It's settled if one way or the other.
Toyota has had transmission problems in the pre 2005 Lexus. They have it in the Avalons and Camrays. I did not like the overall quality of the Avalon, along with the laser speed control, and navigation system . This was my first foreign car and am not happy at all. I would not buy another Toyota product. No one in the Toyota company seems to care about complaints. They are ignored or "they are working on it". ange
We have an '06 XLS with the transmission problem. Absolutely no support from the dealer whatsoever, just the usual "operating as designed" response. After owning ten Toyotas over the past 30 years this unit will be our last Toyota.
We have also owned an Accord and Maxima. Both excellent vehicles- particularly the Maxima if you enjoy spirited driving. I wouldn't recommend you buy the Avalon given Toyota's cavalier attitude to our issues.
For each of the above Avalons with transmission problems there are probably 500 that don't have any issues at all. The problems are real but affect only a very small percentage of cars. Even Lexus is not immune to a hesitation or shifting issue in some models. Nothing is perfect.
Prior Avalons had a gel issue with oil in certain years, and other problems of all types posted here on Edmunds. But I am on my third Avalon ('07 Limited), owned one of each prior generation. Never had a real problem to discuss, they were near flawless to 90k miles.
Take a looooong test drive in the actual car you might purchase before you buy. See what happens. See how you fit in the seat, how it rides, shifts, corners, stops.. everything. My wife and kid both drive V6 Accords. Great cars, but I like the Avalon for size and comfort. Good luck in the search......
If there's only a 500 to 1 ratio, wonder why doesn't Toyota set about to find the problem...they shouldn't have to look too far should thwey. Imstead, they ignore the problem and treat one like an idiot. Nope It'll be my last/
I recently saw a Toyota TV commercial where the scene was in their assembly plant and they claimed 99% quality (1% defects)on their vehicles. The 1/500 is less than the 1% so maybe this is how they are justifying it!
I've been telling everybody I had a car that would not let you lock your keys in it - well, that is wrong! Today I left my purse with my keys in my car and went in to get my grandkids. When I went to put my grandbaby in the car, the back door was locked. So, I opened the front door and pushed the unlock(I thought)button on the door to unlock the back door, then I closed the front door. Well, then NONE of the doors would open!! Evidently, I pushed the lock side of the button instead of the unlock side. SO, if you leave your keys in the car you may not be able to lock it with the black button on the door handle outside but be sure not to push the lock button on the INSIDE of the car! My husband had to come across town to bring me my extra set of keys. Good thing this didn't happen on one of my trips to Louisiana!! By the way, I am the one who had the oil leak part ordered for nearly three months. I finally wrote the president of Toyota in Japan and shortly thereafter did I not only get a personal phone call and my car fixed, but they reimbursed me for a plane ticket I had bought because I didn't want to drive my car on a trip to Louisiana with an oil leak. So, go to the top with your problems. It helps.
Amen! I own two Avalons, my immediate relatives own 4 Avalons. If Toytoa doesn't fix this transmission hesitation problem, our Toyota marraige may be breaking up!
Okay, I was going to give name and address, but after reading Pat's post, I don't want to post something I am not supposed to. However, I got that information from this forum from an earlier post. Maybe you can go back through the posts and find it. It was sometime within the last 3 months.
Okay, that information seems to be quite freely available on the web which is what concerned me (and why I must have left the original post in the first place). The post that has the information is here: gws, "Toyota Avalon 2005+" #13537, 6 Mar 2007 9:02 am.
Planning on long road trip with 06 Avalon. Need more luggage space. Any thoughts on a roof rack system for this vehicle? Looking at Yakima but concerned about door sealing properties with clamp in position. Asked Toyota dealership with no suggestions. Appreciate any input anyone can provide.
I have a 2006 Avalon Limited, and when I turn the ignition off and open the door, right away I hear a mechanical sound from the dash, like a valve opening or closing or something. Does anyone else have this, and if so, what is it? Thanks.
Thanks Mem4. Seeing as that you know about the car, why is it when you start the car with the automatic climate control OFF, the recirculate button is always on? Again, thanks for your help.
According to the Repair Manual, The settings of the Air Conditioner can be customized. If you are not happy with the current settings your maintenance shop can change this. In your case: Air Inlet Mode can be set to MANUAL. The shipping default is AUTO (Recirculated mode). They reasoned that most drivers "desire to make the compartment cool down quickly". (Seems reasonable.) Hope this helps.
Hmmm...well, living in New England, we use heat more than A/C, so this setting is going to bug me as well. I'm bringing it to my dealer tonight to get the rattling sunroof taken care of, and I'll mention changing the reciculate setting as well. Thanks guys.
The dealer can change the setting with their scan tool, I've been bothered by it also but not enough to go back to the dealer to have it changed. I think that below 55 F outside temp it defaults to fresh air, above 55 F it assumes you need the air conditioning so it defaults to recirc. Strangely it doesn't turn on the AC even in Auto mode and the interior is very warm from the sun, you have to activate the AC manually. I agree that here in Massachusetts it ignores our best weather, 70-80 when all you want is fresh outside air with no heat or AC or even the fan. It doesn't matter if you have it in Auto or Off or Manual mode, I think the recirc decision is tied to the outside air temp only. Sometimes I think the car tries to be too smart.
Recently appointed Toyota USA president (and first non-Japanese director of parent company) is James Press, reachable at the Torrance California address.
I have the remote starter and it runs for only 10 minutes. Can the dealership change that to a longer time, like 15 or 20 minutes? Do they charge for that, even under warranty? Thanks.
I'm trying to buy an 06 nor 07(used or new)Avalon limited.Want nav. and appreciate the negative info. Will research garmin etc. Got a quote of $32,700 for limited w/o nav, xls $29,800 w/o nav. All VSC & heated seats. Do you get that much more in a limited to mak it worth the 2,500.difference?please pas it on if you're not up on recent purchases, I'm new to Forum. Thanks AR
I have an 06 Limited and I'll say this, please read of all the problems in this forum on transmission hesitation before investing. I have an 06 Limited and the transmission shifts terrible and is especially dangerous when trying to merge into traffic.In addition, the front seats are uncomfortable, especially on more than 15-20 minute drives.
I have an '06 Limited and it is, by far, the best car I've ever owned. It is extremely comfortable, especially on long road trips. No transmission problems at all. I am convinced that the extra for the LTD w/o nav was well worth the price.
As with all vehicles there are options. I paid $32,700 with everything except laser cruise & Nav. I always buy the top on the line, usually there are options that either you can't get or will want with a lower model. So tell me what is in it or check out the specs on Edmunds. The Garmin Nuvi 660 is a good GPS as it has a larger screen it sells on line for about $650 but will be coming down as they introduced a 670, so wait if you will. Some options are frivolous to some people as with the remote start. My old one was great, Toyota's sucks as does their NAV. The heated & cooled seats are really nice as is the rear window shade on a hot day. Keyless entry is neat once you get used to not using one, as is the keyless start. I like gadgets, G-D's been good to me financially and health wise , I intend to spend everything and the children will get the house and properties we have unless I decide to reverse mortgage them, 40 years of working and saving and investing, why would we leave it. If you can afford it ALWAYS buy the best. Good Luck...........By the way, skip the salesmen, go to the sales manager direct, mine grew up with my son.......
Over your lifetime ownership of the car, the difference in price will mean very little, XLS vs. Limited. The rear sunshade, perforated leather seats and a few other things make the Limited the winner on a daily driver basis in the GA and FL heat.
In two prior editions we bought the XL, not XLS. This time the more expensive model w/NAV won out. Glad we did it. Prior cars were near perfect at 90k and trade-in. With 6k miles on the clock the '07 is perfect so far. Good luck..
Amen to that too! I love my '06 limited. Had over 30K miles on it and running like a champ with occassional transmission hesitation-- . I love the rear lamp assembly design...the back of the infinity looks like an unappealing copy!
Maybe I just accept idiosycrasies,my tranny is different from my Camry but it is a 6 speed and if one accelerates smoothly it performs beautifully. If I just hit the gas erratically it will jump. So far my o6 Limited is great, my wife loves the room and the seats, I have not taken a real long ride but at least 90 minutes and I have no complaints as the lumbar support really helps. I am going to purchase some bumper strips color matched as the bottom of the rear bumper, because of the cars height seems to be a vulnerable point and I have a couple of small scratches there.
I getting close to an 07 limited deal. what are drivers experiences with the laser cruise over conventional cruise? Are body side mouldings attractive and/or practical. One dealer says he can order a blizzard white ltd. to get options I only want, time frame 6 to 8 weeks. Comments please.
I will probably get flack over this BUT, I wanted a Crimsom or whatever they called it. I personally HATED the blonde interior. I purchased a Silver, got the interior I liked since I sit inside, added body side mouldings but not the exact same color as I thought the width of the Avalon from the side needed to be broken up so the moulding was slightly off color so as to draw ones eyes away from the huge expanse of door, works for me and protects the car. I did not but the Laser, I was wary of it as I was of the NAV, personal choice but you are right in researching it, good luck, remember start at the invoice and go up.
I do have laser cruise control in my car which I only use when we go on a long trip with fewer cars on the highway. It works quite well. There are 3 settings in terms of maintaining the distance from the car in the front. I usually choose the middle setting. It is certainly a luxury item and usually comes with the limited. You''ll have to special order if you don't want it. My feeling is, what the heck, you only have one life to live, just go for it.
Before purchase advise to drive for several hours. Have 06 Limited that the transmission constantly hesitates and is very dangerous. I have ongoing lawsuit as Toyota snubbed their nose at me, totally unsympathetic. Also advise you to read all the complaints on this forum.Seats are uncomfortable on long trips unless you like setting on a stump.
I own an 06 Limited, so far it is free of all the complaints but when you purchased yours may be the difference. I purchased mine in July of 06, checked out the TSB's with the dealer, none apply to this car as it was built later, so I guess is is actually an 07 but registered as an 06. My seats are comfortable but I'm a small guy and fit into everything. Sorry about your troubles.
Comments
The guide can be found at http://www.carspace.com/guides/Toyota-Avalon-Rattle-Repairs
Text as follows:
A loose rolling object is moving from side to side below the driver’s seat.
These instructions are accurate as best as I can recollect. I performed this “repair” over a year ago, so some disassembly/reassembly details may not be 100% exact, but the overall method is correct.
Problem Description:
Sounds like a ball bearing, marble or similar. The rolling sound can be heard when turning corners or when the road changes angle or goes up an incline. When the rolling object hits an obstruction, the impact can be felt in the driver’s seat.
Repair: Estimated 2 – 3 hours.
The driver’s seat is mounted on a square hollow steel tube that runs transversely beneath the floor. The object is trapped in the cavity of this steel tube.
Various unsuccessful attempts were made to vacuum the object out, or to remove it using telescopically mounted magnets, however the object is very inaccessible in the tube. The following describes the method used to encapsulate and immobilize the object using expanding foam insulation. This may sound scary but it works and the relief is well worth it. Perform the procedure below with the vehicle on a level surface.
1. Obtain a can of “Great Stuff” Insulating Foam Sealant (Red can) from Home Depot, gloves and some children’s playdough.
2. Remove “AVALON” stainless steel/plastic scuff-plate from the lower aperture of the driver’s door. This is relatively easily done by initially using your fingers by prying the scuff plate upwards for the full length of the plate, and then GENTLY lifting it upwards using a screwdriver, so the plastic clips release from their retaining holes in the bottom of the door aperture. Don’t pull at an angle and be gentle otherwise the clips will break.
3. Move the carpet inwards from the door aperture and underneath the seat so the carpet can be more easily moved.
4. Power the driver’s seat forward and upwards to its fullest extent.
5. From the rear seat and behind the driver’s seat remove the plastic cover over the lower seatbelt anchor in the left door pillar by sliding it backwards.
6. Remove the bolt retaining the seatbelt anchor. Secure the seatbelt so it does not retract excessively into the inertia reel of the seatbelt mechanism. Warning: If it does retract excessively, it will be EXTREMELY difficult to release the seatbelt again without removing the inertia reel assembly.
7. Remove the lower plastic cover from the left door pillar. It is secured with plastic clips. This is also relatively easily done without breaking the plastic clips by prying the cover away starting from the bottom and then gently using a screwdriver to lever the cover away. It may not be necessary to completely remove the cover, but sufficiently to release the carpet.
8. Remove the plastic covers from the two mounting rails (left and right of the seat) behind the driver’s seat, exposing the bolts that secure the mounting rails to the floor of the vehicle.
9. Remove both bolts, one from each rail.
10. The carpet should allow some movement at this point. From the driver’s door, reach backwards below the carpet and you will feel the square transverse tube that the driver’s seat mounts on. There is a very small opening at the front of the tube where it meets the door pillar,
11. Plug the opening using the children’s playdough,
12. From the rear left door, reach forwards underneath the carpet and locate the transverse tube. There is a small opening at the back of the tube where it meets the door pillar.
13. Plug the opening using the children’s playdough,
14. From inside the vehicle behind the driver’s seat, reach under the driver’s seat through the hole in the carpet where the lower air vent protrudes and find the right-front of the tube where it meets the longitudinal tunnel where the console is mounted. Locate the small opening at the front of tube and plug the opening with playdough.
15. Tilt the driver’s seat upwards and forwards so the mounting rails are off the carpet. Position the carpet so that the boltholes (threads) in the floor that secure the mounting rails are visible and accessible.
16. WARNING: No smoking or exposed flame from this point on. Great Stuff fumes are inflammable when the product is being dispensed. Please read product warnings and directions.
17. Put on the gloves, place the straw nozzle of Great Stuff inside the bolthole and slowly discharge about 1/3 of the can into the cavity. WARNING: Great Stuff expands, so if too much is discharged, it will start to ooze out beneath the carpet and into the street and the rest of the neighborhood devouring everything in its path like the 1958 movie “The Blob”. The playdough should contain the foam within the tube below the floor, otherwise excessive foam should be quickly removed. Avoid getting foam on any carpet, fabric or leather surface. It is very sticky when wet, but when it dries it is becomes porous, semi-rigid foam, which can be cut away if necessary.
18. Quickly insert both bolts back into their threads and tighten to prevent the foam from escaping through them and also to prevent the threads from becoming contaminated with foam, which may make reassembly difficult.
19. After about 45 minutes the foam should be set. Remove the bolts and reassemble the seat anchors, door pillar cover, seatbelt and scuff plate.
20. The rolling object should now be encapsulated and immobilized in the foam.
Not that we get a lot of snow in New Jersey, but in the event you get stuck Trac will not let you "rock" the vehicle out. It just fights you. There is a way to disable it via an insane list of commands and I keep a copy in the glovebox just in case.
2025 Ram 1500 Laramie 4x4 / 2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic
There is a real danger in that at a yield as you drop to the 5 to 7 mph range the transmission disengages and you are essentially in neutral for about 2 to 4 seconds. As you depress the accelerator the RPM's rev up but the transmission fails to engage. After the beads of sweat begin to emerge and the knuckles begin to turn white the transmission engages and away you go. This usually happens when the Tach hits about 1850 to 2000 RPM. So till they get it right or issue a service bulletin for a correction, beware of the dreaded 5 - 7 mph dead zone (unless you like cheap thrills) and drive accordingly.
Bob
Thank You for any response>
There is a website 1st.toyota.com, try that first.
It is 1st.toyotaparts.com but I did a search with what I gave you just for Ha Ha's, it was the second site on the list. Most search engines will give you at least 100 or more examples if you are even close, try it. See below.
2. 1st Toyota Parts - Discount Toyota Parts & Accessories below wholesale
1st Toyota Parts - 1st for Price, Service, & Selection! Home. OEM Parts Catalog ... To help us achieve this goal, please include your VIN number when ...www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html - 37k - Cached - More from this site
Good luck!
ange
We have also owned an Accord and Maxima. Both excellent vehicles- particularly the Maxima if you enjoy spirited driving. I wouldn't recommend you buy the Avalon given Toyota's cavalier attitude to our issues.
Prior Avalons had a gel issue with oil in certain years, and other problems of all types posted here on Edmunds. But I am on my third Avalon ('07 Limited), owned one of each prior generation. Never had a real problem to discuss, they were near flawless to 90k miles.
Take a looooong test drive in the actual car you might purchase before you buy. See what happens. See how you fit in the seat, how it rides, shifts, corners, stops.. everything. My wife and kid both drive V6 Accords. Great cars, but I like the Avalon for size and comfort. Good luck in the search......
Cj
By the way, I am the one who had the oil leak part ordered for nearly three months. I finally wrote the president of Toyota in Japan and shortly thereafter did I not only get a personal phone call and my car fixed, but they reimbursed me for a plane ticket I had bought because I didn't want to drive my car on a trip to Louisiana with an oil leak. So, go to the top with your problems. It helps.
Thank you
Cj disgruntled 2006 Avalon Limited owner
NWBLIZZARD
The dealer says , Not any more. Is this true.
Best of luck to you, 9119911 - keep us posted.
Hope this helps.
Got a quote of $32,700 for limited w/o nav, xls $29,800 w/o nav. All VSC & heated seats. Do you get that much more in a limited to mak it worth the 2,500.difference?please pas it on if you're not up on recent purchases, I'm new to Forum.
Thanks
AR
Good luck,
Cj
In two prior editions we bought the XL, not XLS. This time the more expensive model w/NAV won out. Glad we did it. Prior cars were near perfect at 90k and trade-in. With 6k miles on the clock the '07 is perfect so far. Good luck..
Comments please.
Good Luck,
Cj