Are you a current Michigan-based car shopper? A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/2 for details.
There isn't anything I can suggest when it comes to your interior noises and other complaints, but the rotors rusting is normal. Rotors rust, plain and simple. They're steel, not stainless.
This is surface rust... they're not rotting all the way through, but you will always see rotors accumulate some rust in the areas where the pads do not touch. These ares will only show signs of surface rust if driving through wet conditions and then parking the car. This is the cause of that dragging grinding sound the following day when you first use the brakes again. Over the years, the vented sections in the center of the rotor will show the worst signs.
Regarding the TL ride, you did take at least one lengthy test drive, correct? Over a variety of roads?
The TL is a sports sedan which I find to have a good ride/handling compromise. One of the reasons I chose it over an Infiniti G35: The TL had a smoother, quieter ride. Now compared to a Buick or Caddy DeLandYacht, the TL might seem rough...
You can trade any time you'd like. Just be prepared, unless your dealer is feeling rather saintly, for a financial hit!
Good luck.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
yes i did do a lengthy test drive. as a matter of fact i drove several tl's from 4 different dealerships. well i'm going to keep driving it for awhile to see if i can grow to like it. what year is your tl? you dont work for acura do you? (just kidding) thanks for the reply it was very helpful
I found a product several years ago that was designed to cut down on the dash glare... called Aerospace 303 (www.303products.com). It's used mainly for boats to reduce glare off the water. Used it for years in my Volvo. Just purchased a 06 TL with the dash fade and two coats of the 303 restored it to show room standard. We'll see how long it lasts.
Mine is an '05. I just replaced the OEM Bridgestone Turanza tires w/ Toyo Versados. These are a new Luxury Touring tire. After 1000 miles, I can say that these tires are much quieter and offer a smoother ride than the Turanzas.
No, I don't work for Acura. Just enjoy my TL!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Well maybe that's it. I dont have the s-type. i still think the ride is a little rough more noticeable in the last two weeks. i dont recall it driving like this during the test drive. Do you mind telling me how much those tires cost? do you think it would be wise to schedule a drive with one of the service technicians i wonder what they could do? what color is your tl?
Hi: Tires/mounting/balancing/tax for four: ~$760. The shop was having a "Buy three, get the fourth free" sale. I think they charge list for the tires, you might be able to do better. I was going to go in a different tire direction (Ultra High Performance All Seasons), but after talking to the folks in the shop and some online advise I decided to go Luxury Touring. As I noted, much quieter and smoother tire than the OEM Bridgestones. But, I only have about 1000 miles on 'em.
Maybe it is your tires/alignment? You could talk to the dealership/service dept. Let them know that your car seems to be much rougher riding than any of the TLs that you test drove, see if they have any thoughts.
My '05 TL is Abyss Blue, well shined and protected with Zaino products!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
A rough ride on new tires can also be an indication that the tires are overfilled. On the driver's side door jam it tells you the proper pressure, so check that against the tire pressure. That'd be a cheap fix if it's the culprit!!!
I checked the tire pressure according to the computer dash it is normal. I will call the service dept. I dont like going to dealerships It makes me very nervous. Also just noticed today something leaking from underneath? Looks like water but the car is not overheating. This isnt normal? A practically new car shouldnt leak from anywhere correct?
If you run the a/c during the summer, water will condense on something under the car and it drips onto the floor. It's surprising if you're not used to it, but it's common to all cars and not detrimental to the vehicle.
If it's black, that'd be an oil leak; green or yellow would be coolant, antifreeze, or something like that. As long as it's clear (i.e. water), you're fine.
It could be condensation from the air conditioner, which is normal for any car. This happens just after the car is turned off on warm days. Is this the case?
The true test is to run your finger over the "puddle". If it is not black, green ,blue or red you're in the clear, probably a/c condenser. The other thing with certain acuras is that where they drain the motor oil is near a cross bar and it almost always gets hit with oil and will drip very small amounts for 24-48 hrs.
What do you recommend for keeping tires looking good thats not greasy? #1 - Wax your wheels. Use whatever you use on the car and keep them waxed. This will prevent brake dust buildup, and makes the wheels super easy to clean. For tire shine with no slime, I use Zaino Z-16. You'll need an applicator to get the job done right... I use These. You can get them right from Wal-Mart.
How about something to keep dashboard clean and not greasy? Interior products without the horrible Armor-All glare, I like Lexol products.
How do I keep my windows looking clean and great with no streaking? A lot of people swear by Stoner's Invisible Glass. This can also be found at Wal-Mart. I also use it, but it requires the glass to be cold, and you need a nice lint-free cloth. Don't try using it in the sun when the windows are hot.
On my light grey leather interior, my 5 year old son has crayon or some ink in the back seat leather. Any idea how to get that out? I do use Zaino cleaner/conditioner. It is yellow and another stain looks like a ballpoint pen hit the seat..
Concur with your assessment of the Falken Ziex 512 tires. We too took Consumer Reports advice. Tires were installed on our his and hers 1997 BMW 5 Series automobiles. We are very easy drivers and based on the tread remaining when we sold the two cars this summer (we now have a 2007 TSX and a 2007 TL), we would have had to replace them after 30,000 to 35,000 miles. On only that attribute were we disappointed.
I second that- I replaced the stock Michelins on my 03 Type S with the Falkens, great tires but the tread life was horrible.I actually sold the car with the falkens and a little bit of tread life left in them.
My experience w/ tires on TL's ('03 TLS, '05 TL) was always disappointing. The former got just 19k on the michelins and the later got just over 20k. FYI- I replaced the '03's w/ dunlop sport a2's... wrong decision. It felt like I was riding on marshmallows. Something about the side walls not being as stiff.
CR knows how to choose tires for soccer moms. I had Falken on my CL-S for 1 week, send it back because of terrible handling. It almost like OEM Michelin tires.
I had a transparent bra or invisible bra installed on my 07 Acura TL. Covers the entire front end of the car, including headlights and fog lights. It's a 3M product that protects from rock chips. Amazing product. I have over 12,000 miles on my car and not one rock chip yet. Spend the money on that. That cost about 700 bucks to install and last the life of the car. Dealers don't install it, so search transparent bra or invisble bra and have that done.
Dealers don't install it, so search transparent bra or invisble bra and have that done.
Excellent advise, as I have also had the 3M film installed and I'm also very happy with it.
The Dealer will install this for you, but most outsource the work. My dealer had a 3M certified installer on staff so I got lucky. Ask the dealer before going elsewhere, since it's a much better idea to have it done before taking delivery of any new car.
Just be sure of the brand materials being used. Some are very good....others are not.
Anyone know how to remove the rear window brake light in order to clean the window and remove the clouded residue. I have an 07 Acura TL and the rear brake light is clouded over. Not sure how to remove the cover from the inside to gain access to the brake light. Don't want to pull on it and break it. Thanks.
Acutally, it's the film collected on the window from the chemicals released from the plastics when the car is hot. That's why the windows get that haze on the inside after a while. It's only going to get worse. Never the less, probably good to know how to remove that third brake light to replace bulbs down the road. I just don't want to break it when I remove it. I'll ask the dealer on my next oil change.
The info should be in the manual. I went looking for it, but couldn't seem to find anywhere on Acura's site where manuals can be downloaded or viewed....only ordered. Acura's website is actually quite sad after comparing to others. They have a fantastic interface with a virtual tour of every vehicle, which is actually really cool, but they fall way short on information.
Anyone have any thoughts on this product? I've heard good things about it. I know a lot of people recommend Zaino, but I understand it's a lengthy process to apply. Thanks in advance for any responses.
I use Black Magic Wax. It's easy to apply/remove. Need to buff very lightly with a clean towel after removal. Gives great protection and a superb gloss. I've found nothing better if one does not have a lot of extra time/energy for detailing. Costs less than $5.00 at Menards. My two cents.
I've heard of good results from Blackfire but have not played with it personally.
It's not a wax though. It's an oil based polymer sealant. The good thing about this is it's durability. 100% carnuba starts to break down at about 120 degrees, where as Blackfire claims to be up over 400 degrees. (as with most all synthetic polymer sealants)
This would be of interest to you if the car is parked in the sun a lot on hot summer days or if you only plan on treating the car a few times a year.
Nothing will ever replace the look and depth of a high quality carnuba, but these synthetic polymers come as close as they can, while offering superb durability. A great carnuba should be replaced approx every 2 weeks.
Personally, I play with Zaino as a sealant twice a year (several coats) and then treat the car with high quality waxes between Spring and Fall sealant treatments.
Claying a car removes all of the microscopic elements that wear away at your car's finish. That's why it's beautiful when it's new, and just worn and faded, with little spots of rust 6 years later. Little things like acid rain, bird droppings, tree sap, brake dust, road sand and salt... all beat the crap out of the finish.
Claying a car removes this. Sealing and waxing protects between claying.
I clay twice a year. Spring and Fall. Spring to remove all of winter's horrible abuse and to get it all shiny and new for the summer. Fall to prepare for the winter's onslaught of yuck.
My car says I need a B1 servicing. From what I've read that's simply an oil change, a tire rotation and a break check.
Can I have this done where I've always had my cars serviced? If not, can I have it done at my local Honda dealer? The closest Acura dealer is 40 minutes away.
I bought a 120,000 mile warranty for my 2006 Tl. When the timing belt/water pump needs to be replaced I will not have it done. When they fail the repairs will be covered under the warranty and I will save about $800 which is more than half the cost of the warranty
I replaced the battery in my daughter's 2002 Acura..........now the radio and CD will not function.........when the radio is turned on the message ERR 1 appears on the face..the manual does not seem to cover how to reset the radio once the battery is disconnected - does someone have the secret for this problem.
I'm thinking that if you do not accomplish the scheduled MX items called for in the owners manual your extended warranty will be voided. The risk of needing to replace an entire engine when I timing belt lets go is a pretty big gamble...IMHO
I may be wrong, but when the timing belt breaks, the moving parts inside the engine are no longer synchronized, they will all be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Valves crash into piston heads, and many other problems may occur. I doubt that any Warranty will cover repairs if the required maintenance has not been performed. They certainly will not replace an engine that blows if the oil has never been changed, why would they replace an engine if the recommended maintenance has not been done. Sounds like penny wise and dollar foolish to me.
I have a 2007 Acura TL Carbon Bronze. I took it in for my first oil change at 6200 miles and the guy at the service desk told me I should be getting it changed every 3500 miles. I said to him "that's not what it says in the manual" and his response was "well that is just a baseline and it really should be changed more often than that". Is that a load of crap so he can get more money? Their oil changes are pretty resonable, maybe a few dollars higher than a jiffy lube or whatever but I don't want to pay for two oil changes in the same time span as my manual says should only need 1. What are your thoughts?
Isn't it frustrating some times when you can't get a straight answer? My '05 told me when to change the oil but I didn't listen. :P I changed the oil every 5k w/ mobil 1 regardless. The computer always said 10-20 % oil life @ the 5k mile mark.
If the computer is worth anything, it should calculate real time engine usage, not just miles driven. Example, how many starts, how many hours running, how much idle time, average speed etc, then give you a percent oil life left readout. Otherwise it wouldn't differentiate between a police car idling for 8 hours and a car driving highway miles all day. Since the TL gives a readout of average mph and hours driven, I tend to trust the computer and go by the percent oil life left shown.
Hi everyone- For those of you who had your TL's windows tinting, have you had a problem with fine vertical scratches on the tint film resulting from lowering and raising your windows?
I ask this because when I was calling around for tinting quotes, one tinting vendor mentioned to me how the TLs do not have window felt strips which require more $ because felt strips needed to be installed. I spoke to several tinting places afterwards and it was concluded that additional felt was unnecessary. Some vendors hadn't even heard of such a thing.
After noticing the fine vertical scratches on my driver and passenger side windows, I'm suspecting this is a result of the lack of window felt strips. This is the first I've noticed. What is going on here? Is this true?
Any ideas or advice? I appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!
My TL-S is 6 months old and I have about 5,000 miles on it. Current oil life is at 20%. I have called the service department a couple of times and two different service advisers said the same thing: "wait until oil life is at 15 %".
I read bunch of postings on this topic, but I'm still confused. When I start my TL-S in the morning, Check Tire Pressure indicator comes up. After 15 minutes of driving or so, the indicator goes away. What to do?
Low pressure when cold is because the air molecules are smallest. as they warm up hey expand, increasing the pressure inside the tire. The warning message is telling you your pressures are low but when you drive the friction on the tread warms the air and increases the pressure to above the low pressure warning threshold.
Very low tire pressure is the cause of most tire blow-outs. SO GET SOME AIR SOON.
There have been known issues with previous TL's and scratches to the film. There are numerous places where replacement felt can be purchased to avoid the problem. The tint guy is correct. What he is charging you, however, may be a rip off.
If it gets to the point where you're worried about it, do yourself a favor and change the oil. I tended to push my '05 TL pretty hard and always felt better changing the oil sooner. It certainly won't harm the vehicle.
Comments
Rotors rust, plain and simple. They're steel, not stainless.
This is surface rust... they're not rotting all the way through, but you will always see rotors accumulate some rust in the areas where the pads do not touch.
These ares will only show signs of surface rust if driving through wet conditions and then parking the car.
This is the cause of that dragging grinding sound the following day when you first use the brakes again.
Over the years, the vented sections in the center of the rotor will show the worst signs.
Completely normal.
The TL is a sports sedan which I find to have a good ride/handling compromise. One of the reasons I chose it over an Infiniti G35: The TL had a smoother, quieter ride. Now compared to a Buick or Caddy DeLandYacht, the TL might seem rough...
You can trade any time you'd like. Just be prepared, unless your dealer is feeling rather saintly, for a financial hit!
Good luck.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
No, I don't work for Acura. Just enjoy my TL!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Maybe it is your tires/alignment? You could talk to the dealership/service dept. Let them know that your car seems to be much rougher riding than any of the TLs that you test drove, see if they have any thoughts.
My '05 TL is Abyss Blue, well shined and protected with Zaino products!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
If it's black, that'd be an oil leak; green or yellow would be coolant, antifreeze, or something like that. As long as it's clear (i.e. water), you're fine.
It could be condensation from the air conditioner, which is normal for any car. This happens just after the car is turned off on warm days. Is this the case?
What do you recommend for keeping tires looking good thats not greasy?
How about something to keep dashboard clean and not greasy?
How do I keep my windows looking clean and great with no streaking?
#1 - Wax your wheels. Use whatever you use on the car and keep them waxed. This will prevent brake dust buildup, and makes the wheels super easy to clean.
For tire shine with no slime, I use Zaino Z-16.
You'll need an applicator to get the job done right... I use These.
You can get them right from Wal-Mart.
How about something to keep dashboard clean and not greasy?
Interior products without the horrible Armor-All glare,
I like Lexol products.
How do I keep my windows looking clean and great with no streaking?
A lot of people swear by Stoner's Invisible Glass. This can also be found at Wal-Mart.
I also use it, but it requires the glass to be cold, and you need a nice lint-free cloth.
Don't try using it in the sun when the windows are hot.
I suppose Windex also works.
Enjoy!
Thanks for your help!
Excellent advise, as I have also had the 3M film installed and I'm also very happy with it.
The Dealer will install this for you, but most outsource the work.
My dealer had a 3M certified installer on staff so I got lucky.
Ask the dealer before going elsewhere, since it's a much better idea to have it done before taking delivery of any new car.
Just be sure of the brand materials being used.
Some are very good....others are not.
I went looking for it, but couldn't seem to find anywhere on Acura's site where manuals can be downloaded or viewed....only ordered.
Acura's website is actually quite sad after comparing to others.
They have a fantastic interface with a virtual tour of every vehicle, which is actually really cool, but they fall way short on information.
I can't view a manual??? Silly, I tell ya!
It's not a wax though.
It's an oil based polymer sealant. The good thing about this is it's durability.
100% carnuba starts to break down at about 120 degrees, where as Blackfire claims to be up over 400 degrees. (as with most all synthetic polymer sealants)
This would be of interest to you if the car is parked in the sun a lot on hot summer days or if you only plan on treating the car a few times a year.
Nothing will ever replace the look and depth of a high quality carnuba, but these synthetic polymers come as close as they can, while offering superb durability.
A great carnuba should be replaced approx every 2 weeks.
Personally, I play with Zaino as a sealant twice a year (several coats) and then treat the car with high quality waxes between Spring and Fall sealant treatments.
Good luck!
Routinely? Absolutely.
Claying a car removes all of the microscopic elements that wear away at your car's finish.
That's why it's beautiful when it's new, and just worn and faded, with little spots of rust 6 years later.
Little things like acid rain, bird droppings, tree sap, brake dust, road sand and salt... all beat the crap out of the finish.
Claying a car removes this.
Sealing and waxing protects between claying.
I clay twice a year. Spring and Fall.
Spring to remove all of winter's horrible abuse and to get it all shiny and new for the summer.
Fall to prepare for the winter's onslaught of yuck.
Can I have this done where I've always had my cars serviced? If not, can I have it done at my local Honda dealer? The closest Acura dealer is 40 minutes away.
When the timing belt/water pump needs to be replaced I will not have it done. When they fail the repairs will be covered under the warranty and I will save about $800 which is more than half the cost of the warranty
The car, when new, came with this code on a card
If you don't know it, the dealer can help you after getting the serial number off the back of the head unit
Sounds like penny wise and dollar foolish to me.
I ask this because when I was calling around for tinting quotes, one tinting vendor mentioned to me how the TLs do not have window felt strips which require more $ because felt strips needed to be installed. I spoke to several tinting places afterwards and it was concluded that additional felt was unnecessary. Some vendors hadn't even heard of such a thing.
After noticing the fine vertical scratches on my driver and passenger side windows, I'm suspecting this is a result of the lack of window felt strips. This is the first I've noticed. What is going on here? Is this true?
Any ideas or advice? I appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!
When I start my TL-S in the morning, Check Tire Pressure indicator comes up. After 15 minutes of driving or so, the indicator goes away. What to do?
Low pressure when cold is because the air molecules are smallest. as they warm up hey expand, increasing the pressure inside the tire. The warning message is telling you your pressures are low but when you drive the friction on the tread warms the air and increases the pressure to above the low pressure warning threshold.
Very low tire pressure is the cause of most tire blow-outs. SO GET SOME AIR SOON.
Can you tell me the tire pressure recommendation that is on the door panel or in the owners manual for that size tire?
Thanks I appreciate it.
There are numerous places where replacement felt can be purchased to avoid the problem.
The tint guy is correct.
What he is charging you, however, may be a rip off.
Do some research.