Ford F-250 Owners

sgtcooper

MY TRUCK WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OF PARK. MY BRAKE LIGHTS WORK. :mad:

cmyoung

have a 99 F250 SD, V-10, 5sp, 4x4, 84,000 miles. Bought it 2 months ago, have put 10,000 miles. Took a long road trip, 2000+ miles , no load. The transmission broke at the tailshaft housing just in front of the transfer case. Before it went, I thought I had a u joint binding, but that's not what broke. The truck has had light use, good maintainance. Any ideas on what could have cause the problem?

bucmac79

My speedometer recently quit working oin my 00' F250 Diesel. I have checked all fuses. They are all fine. I also pulled the cluster and it is plugged in good. At the same time my ABS light came on and has stayed on. Does anyone have any ideas?

tador

Hey how are ya'. I've actually done that myself, not a super-duty, but a Ford with a Borg Warner 1356 T-case. If it's the same issue which I'm guessing it is, there's an adapter between the t-case and the tranny, the adapter is a high stress point. If you work the truck HARD, or *ahem* ... sidestep a few times, it can crack that adapter. I'm guessing the previous owner of your truck cracked it without knowing, and you were the lucky devil to own it when it let go. Stuff a new adapter in there and you should be in good shape. I doubt it'll break again under normal use conditions.
Best of luck,
-Taylor

tador

There is an electronic speed sensor in the top of your rear differential housing, it has gone bad. This sensor is also tied into your ABS system which is why you're getting an abs fault. It's an easy fix; order a new "vehicle speed sensor", stuff it in the dif. case and you should be all set.
-Taylor

cmyoung

Would it be possible that leaving the manual hubs locked in for long distance at high speed could cause the housing to break? I have always just left the hubs locked for months at a time, just not any real long interstate driving, but didn't know if this transfer case is different.

dbweaver

I have 6,576 miles on my '08 6.4 diesel and I was able to squeeze 16mpg out of it on a 636 mile trip. I was hauling around 2,000lb with the cruise set on 60mph the whole trip.

bucmac79

My 00' Powerstoke makes weird revving noises on cold mornings. If I let it sit and idle, it revs up sometimes but sounds like it is sucking air. I know two others with trucks similar to mine. Theirs do the same. Even when I drive it loses power sporadically. It only does this when its cold. When its warm it has more power than I could ask for. Anyone know this weird thing about the 7.3s?

beezer2

I 'm looking 4 an owner's manual for my '94 F250. Any idea would be appreciated.
Tks. BEEZER

wpalkowski

Try Helm's

nostatic1

Your truck has an electronically controlled backpressure valve in the exhaust system. During cold weather, the PCM closes this valve and raises the idle speed to help the engine warm up.

lostcause245

I own a 2001 f250 with a 5.4L engine and 115000 miles. The other day, when it finally got cold outside, I went to start my truck..When I turned the key it revved up to about 1500 RPM and immediately stalled. Tried repeatedly, shutting the key off each time to re-prime the fuel system. Finally I stepped on the gas a little and it started immediately. As soon as I released the pedal it stalled again. I did get it moving and drove the truck about fifteen miles. When I came to a stop it would only idle at about 400 RPM when it should be at about 6-700 RPM. If anyone has an idea why it is doing this or what could be wrong with it please let me know.

Kirstie_H

A reporter seeks consumers who have decided to keep their truck, instead of purchasing a new one, given the economic climate. If you’re a home builder, that would be even more helpful. Please send your daytime contact information to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Monday, December 10, 2007.

98250

Help! I have a 1998 F250 Supercab. The dealer tells me the rubber bushings in the anti wind bars are worn out and need replacing. The problem is that the bushings are made as part of the metal assembly. The dealer also tells me that Ford no longer makes these anti wind bars. I bought the shop manuals when I bought the truck. These bars mount on the underside of the frame rail near the rear leaf springs and on the underside of the axle housing on the rear end. Since the rubber is worn, I am getting metal on metal when I go over bumps, etc. The noise transmits to the cab of the truck and sounds as if something is about to fall off the rear. I have a hard time believing that there are no new parts for my truck. The dealer refers to them as trailer bars. I have been googling for a couple of days and have come up empty. Does anyone out there have any info or ideas about this problem?

lzrdking98

AHHH. Any chance you are refering to anti-sway bars. I have never heard of the terminology you use or the dealer. I believe they are called anti-sway bars. Try that and you should find the parts.

ryan27

is the '96 ford f-250 body style the same as the '97 f-250 body style? because the only body accessories i can find are for the '97...

tom148

i just changed the glow plug relay on my 2002 ,but when testing to make sure it works, i do not get any power on the brown wire when i turn the key on

bucmac79

I have a 00' F250. My dash lights are really dim.I replaced the bulbs with LEDs. This helped a little, but still not good. Anyone have a clue as tomif I could fix something or does this model just have dim lights?

KCRam

The 1996 F-250 is the old body style that was introduced for 1980, and refreshed in 1987 and 1992. Any body accessory for 1992-1996 will work. The 1997 F-250 was split - the light duty version was changed to the new 1997 F-150 design; the heavy-duty F-250 remained the old body until January of 1998 when it became the 1999 F-250 Super Duty.

kcram - Pickups Host

derf8

This is my first post, so hello to all ford lovers! I have a 2001 f-250 super duty s cab with the v-8 and I love it, however I am having problems with the breaks,I had to replace all 4 rotors and pads at 28000 miles, I talked to my mech. and he said this is a problem on all ford trucks, the guides for the pads get corroded and the pads hang up on the rotor, now 30 days latter its happing again I would just like to know if other ford owners have had this problem and what they did to fix it.
thank you, derf :confuse:

98250

I thought the anti sway bar runs the length of the rear end. These bars run parallel to the frame and body, not at a 90 degree angle to them. These bars are about three or so feet long. I appreciate your help with this problem. If you think that is what they are called, I will try using that terminology.

lzrdking98

Your original post sounded like you were describing sway bars. It sounds like your truck has a camper package that fortifies the [non-permissible content removed] end. That is probably what you are dealing with, the camper arms or what the dealer called them. I do not have that package and as a result would be unable to help you. I can't tell you what it is if I can't see it. Good luck

skybo1966

This is my first post in the F-250 area, so hello to everyone. My questions is that I am actually wanting to sell my 2001 F-250 crew cab diesel. It is a great truck and looks and runs great but I do not have a need for this room and power anymore since I sold my boat and camper. The 7.3 turbo diesel is strong! Can anyone give me an idea of a fair starting point for a sales price? I don't think the NADA or other sources are accurate for these trucks, they hold their value so well and are in high demand. It has 108,600 miles and has the Lariat package along with other extras such as nerf bars, brush guard,spotlights and tool box.

98250

I have the shop manuals for the truck. The only question is how to get a picture to you so you can see what I am talking about. Any ideas? This noise is getting louder and more obnoxious. Thanks.

nvbanker

Duh :shades: EDMUNDS is a great source for pricing

ve1drg

Thanks for the response on my question about mileage with our new truck.
I have now nearly 4000 miles on it and found that my miles-per-gallon increased up to nearly 12 mpg as my mileage increased while pulling a 14000 lb load. I was pulling this load for about 3500 of those miles..

I am becoming more pleased with both the mileage and the performance of the truck as the days go on..

Perhaps others have good responses as well?

p10leadman

I should know this, but I have forgotten- my front passenger tire is wearing faster than the other 3, but on both outside edges- ball joints, or what? (I have new shocks )
any quick cheap replacements for the aspirator tubes? I replace these almost yearly.. finally patched with blue hi temp hose, but that is a short term fix too.
The saddle tank.... seems to be very pricey to replace... looking for a economy tank?
:sick:
OK, I'm listening

hd82

I have read a number of posts concerning the MPG gained when using Cetane Boosters. This being said, I did a little researching for myself. The following link, http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/2000-07/964403830.Ch.r.html has brought another side of the equation. While I am not convinced to believe either argument I am still thirsty for more documented results.

hd82

Back to basics. Check your air pressure. Wearing on outside edges is a sign of LOW Air Pressure, wearing of the middles of the tires is Over Inflated or HIGH Air Pressure.

cindy24

I am having a slight vibration in what feels like the wheel area when braking at speeds around 30 - 40 MPH. I have replaced my drums but this did not fix the problem. Any suggestions? :shades:

lynard007

I have a 6.0 that started blowing anti fz at 97000 miles one dealer said it needed head gaskets another said nothing was wrong the 3rd dealer said it needed head gaskets also but im @ 101300 miles now and ford does not want to cover it does anyone know how I should handle this 3000.00 dollar one ???? ford is givin me the run around

aandlp

I have an 02 F250 with what sounds like a similar rattle. It sounds like something loose that's hitting the firewall. The sound is a rather loud knocking at low speed over mild bumps. If I grab the blower fan housing and rock this real hard I can hear the knocking low in the engine compartment. Did you ever figure out what was making the noise since this might help me? Thanks.

thunderwood

i have a 1999 F-250 superduty 6.8 V-10. when it is first cranked up, and it is cold, it idles fine, but once it is warmed up, it has a miss. could someone tell me what may be causing this?

sladezolo

I have a 2000 f-250 7.3 manual transmission. it has 400,000 miles, it was very well taken care of is still a very good truck. sometimes while at a constant speed it starts bucking like a bull out the gate, its like it looses power and gets spurts of energy within seconds (back and fourth). i change my fuel filter and its good for about 20 miles then starts again. but usually at low speeds from 5-35mph.if anyone knows anything about this please help me.

jim8503

I HAVE A 2002 F-250 THAT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DOES NOT COME ON AT ALL ( EVEN WITH JUST THE SWITCH ON). IT IS A 5.4
I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST A BULB BAD BUT WHEN I GOT THE INTRUMENT PANEL OUT I FOUND THAT THE INDICATORS DO NOT USE BULBS.
ANY SUGGESTION,S OR A WIRING SCHEMATIC ?

JIM

jim8503

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND A WIRING SCHEMATIC FOR A 2002 F-250 WITH A 5.4 THAT SHOWS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WIRING.

johnminn

Oil is cheap compared to engine problems.
I almost never exceed 3000 miles.
I use the best oil I can buy and use the Donaldson filters because they are the best I know of.
How many barrels of oil can you buy for the cost of one blown engine?
Nuff said.

johnminn

Try http://www.ford-trucks.com/
I purchased the shop manuals from Ford when I bought the truck.
Unfortunately it seems the dealerships don't seem to read their manuals, but I sure do.
Your check engine light is a computer function.
Any number of things can cause that "check engine" display.
A readout meter is sure handy and not all that expensive.
What is your time worth?
Bet it is less than shop time costs, and one trip into the shop would have paid for the readout.

Do check all grounding connections.
Do look for loose connections to the various sensors.
However your problem can be the sensor itself.
Here again the readout will tell you where to look, and it is almost always correct.
Loose connections will throw everything into a new reality of "What the over, hey"?

wpalkowski

Helm Inc. sells Electrical wiring manuals for your truck.

Click Here

rmcface

I RECENTLY TOWED A MID-SIZE CAR WITH MY 03 F-250 6.0 4X4 AUTO FROM TX TO PA. WHILE TOWING WAS A BREEZE, ON MED TO STEEP GRADES, THE ENGINE WOULD SEEM TO STARVE ITSELF (AIR OR FUEL?) AND MISS, CAUSING A SPUTTER AND SPEWING OF BLACK SMOKE. I CHANGED THE TOP SIDE FUEL FILTER (NO TOOLS FOR UNDERSIDE) AND AIR FILTER APPEARS CLEAN. ANY SUGGESTIONS.....

coopfordtech

check the bottom fuel filter, or a clogged fuel pick up tube in the tank, you can use a 36mm scket for the filter cap

rmcface

Thanks, I did get to change the lower filter this weekend and still have same symptoms. Is the fuel pick up tube difficult to access or can a shade tree hacker get at it? I appreciate the help.

johnminn

Fairly simple.
Remember the power to the pump, even though the ignition is off and the lead is "cold", treat it as if it were hot. Lower the tank enough to remove the leads and tape them off. Haven' t dropped a tank like yours, but they are all about the same.
Being overly "safe" is not a waste of time.
Just be sure that you drain down the tank as much as you can before you lower it.
It is much heavier than you think. Disconnect the filler tube and siphoning is much more straight forward and you won't get the siphon hose stuck.
Don't say to yourself "Ah, I only have 10 gallons in there, I can handle it".
NO, you can NOT!
Even with a lift under the tank, that shifting fuel can give you fits and things get broken. Add the weight of the tank to the weight of the sloshing fuel, and you have more than you can handle.
Been there, done that, but I guarantee I won't repeat that performance.
John

anniechacha

I came to site for help with my son's F250 tranny. I saw your post and I remembered my husband had the same issue with his F350. He did figure out the problem, unfortunately I do not remember what caused it. I will ask him tonight and post his answer. Hopefully it will help you.

wedell

My F250 1999 5.4L runs well until I put my 11ft truck slide on camper into bed. The truck then starts to miss on several cylinders when I slowly accelerate between 30-50 mph,,, at 55 mph it seems to smooth out. When I step down on gas pedal the truck delivers full power after down shifting but returns to missing condition after I lighten up on pedal. Any ideas?

diehardford

Could be one of several things. First I would start with the fuel system. Make sure your fuel filter is clean. If it has been a while since it was changed I would change it out. Next check out the fuel injectors. Run a couple tanks of gas with a good fuel injector cleaner . I use sea foam from advance auto stores. Next I would replace spark plugs if it hasn't been tuned up in a while. Next check spark plugs wires and then the coils. Some times a bad coil will do fine with no load and then break up under load witch would be adding a camper. My 2001 f150 had a similar problem and it turned out to be the # 8 coil. This model had a coil going to each cylinder. A 35 dollar obll tester pinpointed which cylinder was missing. # 8 was a bear to get to but a 50 dollar coil later (advance auto) truck was running fine.

rmcface

Thanks, I will give it all a shot. Hopefully this will cure this beast.

davlin75

My husband & I just purchased a 2005 Ford F250 - drove it one day & the engine light came on. It was the coil - took it back to the dealership since it is still under warranty - they fixed it. We drove it one day & the check engine light is back on again. Has anyone has this problem over & over again? Sure hope the dealership can fix whatever it is.

lzrdking98

No.. Take the truck back and turn it in. If you are hell bent on keeping it, have them hook it up to a scan tool. There are a million reasons why the check engine light will come on.

lonewolf3

Can anyone tell me what kind of fuel mileage they are getting with a newer model (possibly even a 2008) ford 250 crew cab with a 5.4L with a 4.10 rear, 4x4??? I'm looking at buying one, or should i go 3.73 rear?? either can handle my towing needs.