Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford F-250 Owners



  • I just bought the truck used from Battlefield Ford about a month ago. It is an automatic w/ the V10. In the mornings, it will sometimes stall while warming up. Also, while driving, it will lose power, truck will still be on, but when I give it gas, it just won't go, then it will stall. Also, sometimes when I come to a stop, i.e. traffic light, it will cut out, and it seems like it doesn't want to start back up. The dealer, who, gave me the run around about fixing it since I just bought it, said it threw a loss of power code and numerous tranny codes. Any ideas from anyone would be great. Just to give me an idea of what I am up against here! :sick:
  • See following article & comments at Autoblog: oblems/2#comments

    I own a 2001 4dr 7.3L, (as well as a '92 Metro convertible), so I'm not having injector problems. Squirrels camping out in the engine compartment & using the wiring harness for jaw exercise, on the other hand....!


  • Just bought a 2006 XLT Supercab. I'm wondering if anyone knows of an after market seat for the rear seat. The OEM seat only has shoulder belts for the two outside seating positions. I'd prefer to have shoulder belts for all three seating positions.

    I believe the new F-150 super cabs have a shoulder belt for all three rear seating positions.

    As an alternative, does anyone know of an after market shoulder belt for th middle position?
  • I have an 03 Super Duty and have the same problem, Have you heard any suggestions?

  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Adding, modifying, or changing seat belt configurations is a very touchy proposition. Because these are safety items that are government regulated, vehicle manufacturers will wash their hands of any injuries sustained by the use of a non-factory belt, and it will be tough to find an aftermarket shop who will do it for the same liability reasons.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • tjmodztjmodz Posts: 1
    I have had a similar problem w/ my '05 F250 V10/auto/4x4 w/ manual shifter on floor since I had the "plow truck" trans. recall done in 6/05 @ 3000 miles.
    I get a "rattle" noise coming from the transfer case area that starts around 45mph and varies w/ speed, but if you hold the shifter the noise continues.
    I drove w/ mech. in Sept. who said he thought it was a wind noise, but would put it on a lift. 20 min. later he asked if I could leave it, they replaced clutch packs.
    At first the noise was very intermittent, but became more consistent by Dec. I left the truck for 2 wks. and never heard from the dealer, when I called they said they couldn't hear a noise. When I picked it up, the second I got over 45 the noise was there. I turned around and took the same mech. w/ me who was still trying to tell me it was wind noise.
    I hope I can either convince Ford to replace the driveshaft as was done in your case, give me a new trans. or get a new truck under the lemon law. After all the truck has 4600 miles on it.
  • nev1nev1 Posts: 1
    Hey Jennifer, not sure if you've figured out your Ford problem, but I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 Diesel and recently experienced the same problem. I have replaced the "cam shaft position sensor" not the "crank shaft position sensor" (not even sure if there is two separate sensors for the cam and crank)anyway truck seems to be working so far. Here is a link for the repair; quite simple to change.
    Nev Position_Sensor_on_a_73_Power_Stroke_Diesel.html
  • knapp1knapp1 Posts: 2
  • Just curious, I heard that the glow plugs are more like glow screens that go in between the intake and the heads. so the intake maniold and everything on top of it has to be removed. Do you know if this is true?
  • tillertiller Posts: 1
    You may have this porblem corrected by now but I just joine dthe site so this is the first time I've seen your post. I had the same problem with my 2000 7.3 and found the problem was the cam postion sensor. This was a common problem with the 2000 and 2001 models but a friend has a 2002 model wich had the same problem. A good indication that the problem is the cam postion sensor is if the truck starts again after it cools down for 5-10 minutes. :confuse:
  • Stan,
    I went to auto blog to find this article and for some reason I cant find it :lemon: ? Is is because it was posted in DEC? Any help you could give me on finding would be great. I'm having this exact same problem with my 04 superduty.

    Thanks, Mark
  • In the link, change
    pr- oblems/2#comments


    on the 2nd line. You'll have to copy the link & paste it in the address box - remember, the 2nd line shown in my original post is really one long string of characters. So 1) Paste the first line in the address box.
    2) Paste the second link in the address box after the 1st line.
    3) Make the correction above.
    4) Then click on the "Go" button.

    Hope this helps!

  • i have a 97 f250 7.3 powerstroke diesel and a 02 f350 powerstroke diesal for work. i dont know much about the engine but my f250 has 200000 miles on it. i just keep the fluids changed regularly and its given me good service so far. i did have to change the vacum pump {600.00}about 2 months ago, other than that its been a workhorse. the f350 has about 175000 miles on it. we use it to haul a 44ft furniture gooseneck trailer. the only problem we have had with it was a sensor went bad, had to tow it in, it took about 10 minutes to fix. we also had a little trouble with the fuel filter when we got it, fords computer kept giving us the wrong filter for the truck it would not seal off and kept spraying fuel all over the engine. they finally got the right part number in their computer so problem solved.
  • Not sure if the "air by-pass valve" AKA the "air-idle-control" valve is the one you're talking about here, but my 2000 5.4 sometimes stalls unless I keep giving it gas (mostly when cold-starting but also when stopping). I paid to have it put on the dealer's computer & this is the culprit. Now I just would like to talk to someone who has replaced this valve. How difficult a job is wants $300. so must be a nightmare or else they're greedy!
  • ksappksapp Posts: 1
    2004 f-250 superduty 6.0 diesel. Just seeing if anyone else is having same problems. I had to have the front hubs replaced, 2 EGR valves, a turbo in Dec. 05 (and now there is an upgraded version), ball joints will be next, and now noticed paint on the hood is comming off (they say start of de-lamination), and also my cruise control is sticking and you just about have to stand on the brake to shut-off all with 66,000 miles and very well taken care of. :sick:
  • I have a 2005 F-250 Diesle i bought new from malik ford in houston. i live in gulfport and i deal with a local dealer for service. when my AC is on my compressor kicks on and off about 10 times in 1 minute. i can tell because the pitch of the engine changes, more so when the compressor is on. it used to make a loud thump when it kicked on. Ford changed the compressor and the thump is gone but it still short cycles. ford wants to tell me it is normal just like they said the thump was normal. i guess they just expect me to believe it and move on. this has been going on for 5 months. i love the truck when the AC is off. Please if anyone can help me email me. thank reagan
  • hi everyone, i own an f-250 7.3 L diesel. i mainly just drive around in the huge thing but i am going on a trip and would like to know how to tell if my shocks are up to the drive. it has a set of after market shocks and about 45k. i am taking a two horse goose neck trailer and going about 600 mi. they are a little squeaky and the thing drives like a boat but i think that is just how a truck drives. since this is my first truck i am at a bit of a loss, and some how i dont think comparing the ride to my subaru is the thing to do. so if anyone can give me a few pointers it would be great.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    No, a truck shouldn't drive like a boat....nothing but a boat should drive that way.
    45K miles, is the total mileage or the mileage on the shocks?
    At any rate I would run the truck into a reputable front-end shop and have them check it over and align/repair what is needed. Think you will find a big difference in ride/driving.
  • I have a 2002 F-250 w/ 5.4L in it. I put gibson shorty headers on it,flowmaster catback exhaust,and K&N filter. Looking for more power for towing. My ? is what is the better programmer for this ? I'm thinking of the hypertech 1. I would appr. youre feedback. thanks in addvance.
  • i bet this sounds funny, but i had to be at work yesterday morning at 8 am and would be working till 4 pm. when i went out to start my truck it would try to turn over, but would act as if it was not getting gas. i have dual tanks and tried both. called the local parts store looking for sugestions, but in the end they said it might be the fuel pump. i was told i had 2 fuel pumps on my truck. the truck is a 1994 f-250 with a 351windsor and a bulldog manual trans. is there a way to thawe out the lines?
  • How do I release the tension on the serpentine belt and re-tension the belt when replacing the alternator?
  • What year, and which motor? My F150 w/ a 5.0 Liter has a 1" nut on the alternator. I put a socket and breaker bar on it, then you can pull the alternator over and release the belt.
  • My F-250 was broken into recently, a common occurence I hear. I was wondering about filling the locks with some kind of putty and covering the locks? I have a keyless ebtry alarm system, and I would just like to cover the locks because thats where the SOBs stuck a screwdriver in and gained access.

    Any thoughts are appreciated.
    Ford said to remove the locks and replace new door handles (minus the lock hole) it would cost $500 ( a bit high I think)

    THANKS ;)
  • Redline Products makes a security addition called the Jimmi Jammer. It's a metal plate that goes inside the door, which fits between the door handle and the lock mechanism. It will impede people from breaking into your truck through the cheap plastic door handle or prying out the lock.

    Here's the manufacturer's website
    jimmi jammer
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    I dont need a catalatic convertor. I live in a county that dosent require emissions.Is their a piece I can get , so I dont have to spend 200.00 dollars on a new converter . How do I get some one to weld it?
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    I think in 94'Ford changed the style a little they were more boxy in 89-93. I just aquired a F-250 with a big block 351 8.0 Winsor. New engine with 66,000 on it. 4x4,Lariat for 4500$ This thing can easily move 4400 lbs. of dirt. Thats 2 tons in a 3/4 ton truck.The only problem is that I didnt need this much truck. The guy I just bought it from had a land scaping company.And I only need a truck with racks.I paint houses not move mountians. P.S. I have 2 peice bug gards for cheep.E-mail if u need one
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    Buy the part then revirce enginere for a moment.(figure out how it goes on)Then buy a diagnossis computer for 120.00 and NEVER go to the dealer.They rape people for a living.$300.00 to them =1/2 hour labor
  • allday82allday82 Posts: 8
    I Ive had that same problem. Took it to a mechanic spent 500.00 to find out it was a 3.00 modal computer sensor. Invest in a diagnosis computer.120.00 fits all make and model 91-above.Fords may be problematic vehicles but a child could fix them.
  • knapp1knapp1 Posts: 2
    The cold start valve aka air idle-control is located on the top plentom on the very back of it right in the middle of the pluntim runner not to hard to get to but it is very expensive to buy a new one i think they were about $350 bucks it takes a bit to get it out there are 2 bolts holding it in and a vacuum line,and wires
  • gio1gio1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 f250 with a 7.3 liter and the 6speed tranny. When i let out the clutch there appears to be a little vibration or grind coming from the clutch? throwout beraing? tranny? It's just a horrible sounding noise but seems to not be causing damage. almost sounds like an exuast pipe vibrating on the frame or a loose part cus it goes away the second I i bring up the Rpm's. It does it the worst if I am in 2nd gear lugging slowly up a hill and no it's not the diesel motor lugging it's something else. Has anyone felt this or heard of this withyour 6spd 7.3l
Sign In or Register to comment.