Back in 2005, the feds investigated complaints about brake failure in the Rx 330. Does anyone else recall this? Could there be any connection to the current recalls? I have not seen the RX 330 listed as an affected vehicle thus far.
If you should be considering the F/awd version then you should reconsider. The FWD only version will be just as adequate in adverse roadbed conditions.
The 2010 is the first RX350 F/awd model with a somewhat functional rear drive system. The new system, also in the Venza and 2010 Sienna, more evenly distributes engine torque over all four wheels' contact patch should you encounter slippry roadbed conditions wherein that is a requirement.
For "base" FWD vehicles the Honda/Acura SH-AWD remains the beat of the best.
On any used car, the ability to verify regular oil/filter changes is important. Stay away from 18" wheels/HID headlight option as foggy/bad seal headlight replacement costs $1480.00 per headlight to replace.
I used our AWD RX in a 300 mile drive snow storm about a month ago, it handled very well. As one person said, on FWD bias vehicles, I am not sure how often the AWD is really needed. AWD, due to its more moving parts is more prone to rear drive seal leaks and issues down the road, and uses more gas.
it's AWD car, with big and detail maintenance history. Timing belt, power steering, Radio unit, rear hatch struts and all miscellaneous staff(brake, tires, rotors) are done. I didn't see HID light replacement yet, but i will go over it again. But price for 2004 AWD 95,000 is 14,000. Is it good one or better to pass on it, because of miles.
12 pages of history has been printed for me and headed over, but remove previous costumer name of course. Also included all maintenance check point like 10,000 and so on until 90,000 miles.
I test drove a 2006 RX330 today, and the driver's switch would only lower the driver's window. None of the other three windows would move when I used the switch on the driver's armrest. The others would all work when their individual switches (RF, LR, RR) were used, but the driver's master switch would not work. Also, when the key in the driver's door was turned to the unlock position, only the driver's side (front and rear) windows would lower. The two on the passenger side could not be raised or lowered using the key in the door. Is this something that is set up using some special programming for preferences, or is it a failure of some relay or hardware in the body control module? I really liked the car, but I'm not going to buy it if there's a bunch of electrical gremlins lurking about.
The manual was in the glove box, but I didn't have the time to try to find out what the problem might be while I was sitting in the dealer's lot. If someone knows that this is merely a programming option, and that it is easily remedied, it would make my buying decision a lot easier. Thanks in advance for any advice you could give me.
Any time the battery is disconnected, the main window power switch on the driver door acts this way.
After battery is connected, I let the car idle and then open every door and open the window and close each one, then go back to driver side and open and close all windows. That should work.
When you go back to the car, while the car is running, try the seat memory, if neither setting changes the setting, for sure that tells you the battery was disconnected.
Thanks for the information. As a matter of fact, I did play around with the seat memory, and when I hit both the memory 1 and 2 switches, nothing happened. I then entered my seat and mirror settings in memory 1, moved the seat a little, and when I hit the mem 1 switch, the seat returned to where I had set it. I guess that tells me that they had the battery disconnected for some reason or other.
We also lowered all 4 windows and raised them back up, but the driver's master switch would still only work on the driver's window. However, we did not do this with the doors open. I'll try your suggestion when I'm back at the car. Thanks again.
As a previous poster indicated, every time the battery is disconnected you have to reset the automatic close on the windows and sunroof. Instructions are included in the manual. You simply individually open and close each window, then leave each window about an inch. Works just fine. A little different process for the sunroof, but an easy fix.
Thought I would post an update. The dealer let me take the car today for an overnight test drive. Since they're closed on Sundays, this really amounts to a 2-3 day test. As soon as I got off the dealer's lot, I pulled into a parking lot and performed the reset procedure for the windows. Worked like a champ. Strangely, I didn't have to reset the moon roof switches. They worked fine all the time. Now for the test drive results---I LOVE the way the car drives. I like all the features, like heated seats, power liftgate, seat memory, dual climate control, etc. But there are a couple of definite deal breakers for me. First, there is a terrible clunking noise coming from behind the rear seat every time I drive over any little bump. Even something as small as a tar pavement strip makes the rattling sound. We checked everything in the back from the security of the spare, the jack, the cargo cover, and even the first aid kit. These were not the source of the noise. I think it's coming from the suspension. Another big downer was a series of vertical scratches on the windshield, right in front of the driver's eyes. They are not noticeable all the time, but when driving into the sun, or when meeting an oncoming car at night, they are very distracting--almost to the point of being dangerous. It might be possible to buff them out, but I'm not sure.
The previous owner didn't have all the service performed at a Lexus dealer, and there are no other service records available, so if there is a problem with the power train, the extended warranty would probably not apply. I talked to the service manager at a Lexus dealer, and he said he didn't think that Lexus would honor the warranty because I can't verify that all the servicing was done at the proper intervals. Also, the plastic engine cover (on the passenger's side of the compartment over the alternator and power steering pump) is just lying there loose. It looks like there are 4 fasteners, probably wing nuts or plastic screws, that are supposed to hold this cover in place. Someone never bothered to replace them. This is inexcusable in my opinion. It indicates to me that whoever was working on the car just didn't care very much. I guess I will have to keep looking. I'm thinking that i could probably find a Lexus Certified car at a dealer, and get one that doesn't have all these issues.
Thanks to all for your suggestions.. Wish me luck in my continued search.
The sunroof never needed resetting, just the windows and seat memory settings.
I don't know what you are paying for this RX330, but scratchy windshield and missing plastic push clips at $2.30 each should not be a deal breaker. Those push clips are very tricky and if you don't know what you are doing, you can break them, or they easily fall out while taking the cover off.
If you really want the car, find out how much it costs to replace the windshield and negotiate half of the cost into your final price.
For suspension, take it to a Lexus dealer and have them find out what is wrong, and how much it costs to fix it. You might be able knock some more money down if the seller becomes aware of the problem.
I have a 2005 RX 330 with 35000 miles. I noticed a pink spray deposit near the radiator. After further checking, I noticed the pink dried stuff(dried antifreeze) appears to come from the upper transmission aluminum line that is hooked to the radiator. The leak is where the line connects to the aluminum part of the radiator. The reservoir was empty and no antifreeze was visible when the radiator cap was removed. Has anyone had similar problem and how was the problem corrected. I have not driven the vehicle since discovering problem saga1
The info here solved my power windows problem. As soon as I read the comments about the battery, I knew where my problem was...I had recently replaced the battery. The instructions in the owner's manual were right on.
However, as to RX330's not having electrical problems...not so. My driver side outside mirror position can not be changed with the mirror control switch (the right side mirror still works fine). I can only change it manually.
I'm not sure which years were affected but the driver's side mirror on ours crapped out and when I called the shop I was told, "oh, yeah, we've got a TSB on those, which color is it and we'll order it for you". They received it a couple of weeks later and replaced it, well past the warranty period.
At the time I should have said that the pax side one had acted up once as well, it had. It went out at about 5 years but I got no joy on that one from the dealer.
I am considering a 2004 RX 330 with 93,000 miles. It is in mint condition and they have all service records. It is also still under the 100,000 mile warranty. Some people I have talked to say I am CRAZY for considering this, but I really love the car and can't afford the price on a newer one or one with low mileage. How many miles can I expect to get on a car like this? I know that many Toyotas go 300,000 when they are well taken care of. Can I expect the same from a Lexus? Thanks in advance for your input!
IMO any car, WITH MAINTENANCE can easily go 300K. However, neglect oil and tranny service, or OVERHEAT THE MOTOR once and all bets are off.
With that many miles make them do the TIMING BELT and WATER PUMP service. Otherwise that's probably a $700-$1,000 ticket depending on whether you have the dealer or a private garage do it. My wife just turned 63K on her '04 and she still likes it more than the new 350s.
I hope my response is not too late....Go straight to your dealer and request a free radiator replacement.
I replaced our 2004's myself with an aftermarket thinking the car is five years (48K) and out of warranty. To my surprise, the dealer said they had extended warranty on radiators. I had the old one stil, but did not push for reimbursement as they had fixed my foggy headlight free. The gesture that they would have fixed it free was good enough for me.
If you have paid for this repair, write to Lexus and request refund. My 93 Ranger with 145K is still on the original radiator, so are my 2001 Mercedes E430 and 2003 Ford Explorer, and 1997 Dodge Stratus.
A radiator going that fast is a defect and not a norm or maintenance neglect.
Just turned 90k on mine. Had the 90k service done which included - replace all and I mean all - fluids, all belts including timing, rear brakes, platinum plugs and wires, all filters and water pump and it runs like new. As far as I mam concerned with proper maintenance it will purr for another 90k miles. by the way had the radiator changed under a recall very early on (about when it had 20k miles). My wife loves it as much now as when we got it brand new.
I would suggest you have them check for any outstanding recalls or TSB's
After buying the quieest SUV I've driven, I removed the rear (trunk) cover. After that, I noticed an annoying rattle in the back of the car. After a trip to the dealer, they were no help. I found it by riding in the back of the car while my son drove around the neighborhood. I l;ocated the source of the noise, set the two retaining clips in the shade holder to the lowest position. Problem solved. Try it. I hope this suggestion fixes your noise.
I've a 2004 RX330 w/45,000 miles on it (original owner). Twice in the past two months while freeway driving (65 -75 mph) the car has suddenly developed severe front end shaking; vibration starts in front end and rapidly builds to point that steering wheel is difficult to hold onto. Feels almost like engine is breaking loose from it's mounts. Solution is to move to slow lane, slow to 25 to 35 mph and in a few minutes vibration and shaking diminish and then stop altogether. In both cases the rest of the trip was problem free. No obvious cause, ie. road surface was unchanged before, during and after incident; I rolled over nothing in road, no lane changes. Just comes out of the blue. Only the two incidents since I got the car. No recent service or tire change/rotation to account for this. Anybody else ever experience this? Or ideas I can take into my alignment shop? Thanks, Don
I had a similar situation years ago with a front wheel drive vehicle. It turns out it was a defective CV joint. The problem came and went away for a few weeks and then reappeared. It started happening more and more frequently, which made it easier to diagnose. I finally was able to take it to the mechanic while it was acting up and he had no trouble spotting the constant velocity joint as the culprit.
We bought a 2004 Lexus RX 330 in June 2010 after trying to do as much research as possible and deciding that it would be a good car. I loved it and it seemed to be a good vehicle, until yesterday when the Check Engine and VSC lights came on. I took it to Autozone and was given the code of P0766 Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off. We took it on the interstate and I don't think it's shifting into overdrive (3000 rpm at 70 mph). We also found out that we need a new battery (it hasn't died yet but it's the original battery so about 7 years old) and maybe need to have the alternator looked at--I'm not sure if these two issues are related and I can't find anything about P0766 and the Lexus RX330. We were on vacation last week and left that car at home so it did sit for about 8 days. Again, I don't know if that would cause the shift solenoid issue. Any ideas??
Being a 2004 model and still on original battery is unusual. My sister's and wife's 2004 RX 330's batteries were both replaced last year.
I don't know a weak battery has anything to do with a stuck shift solenoid. But with all the electronic these days, replacing the battery could reset some programs.
3000 RPM @ 70 MPH sounds like OD to me. Can you hear/watch the tach for each of the 5 shifts? Are any sloppy, slipping, etc.?
Original battery still?! Great, you got your $ worth. If you're having any electrical trouble with an RX, start there with a fresh, new battery that has a the highest RESERVE AMP rating you can find so it will last a while (I don't know about 7 years though).
I don't think it's likely the battery is the cause of a CEL trouble code for a shift solenoid, but I'd still start with a good battery anyway. If you're out of powertrain warrantee I'd suggest taking it to a trusted TRANSMISSION mechanic and ask if they will do a free diagnostic. Tell them if there is nothing internally wrong you will have them service the transmission with new fluid, filter, and gasket (preferred to the dealer's "flush"). I found a trustworthy and helpful place in Reseda, CA. Let me know if that helps you, and I'll email you directly.
I'd only drive it straight to the diagnostic and not use the car otherwise until the cause of the code is repaired. You don't want to risk damaging the transmission with a stuck or damaged valve, wear debris in the fluid, or anything else for that matter.
P.S. Oh, also changing the battery usually results in erasing the CEL codes and may make it harder to diagnose. If the car starts OK, maybe hold off on a new battery just for now. See what the transmission mechanic has in mind.
I live in VA so the shop in CA won't be much help to me, but thanks anyway. The car is an hour and a half away right now at my cousin's repair shop. They didn't really think it was going to be a big deal until they hooked it up to the computer and found out that the shift solenoid is inside of the transmission (I'm not totally sure that it is, but hey what do I know), so they wouldn't even touch it and said the transmission would have to be dropped to replace it. They did, however, replace the battery so that will probably reset some stuff. I will have to drive it home about 75 miles so most likely the lights will come back on. I'm taking it to a shop on Monday and based on what I've given them (VIN, code problems) they are fairly confident they can fix it. Of course, I'm prepared for them to run the diagnostics and then go "Ummm, nevermind." If they cannot fix it, then I will take it to the local Toyota dealer (the car dealer I bought this from 3 months ago wants me to do that before they'll even remotely consider helping me out) and hopefully they can do something with it. I hope it doesn't come to that because their hourly rate is waaaay higher. The shop I'm taking it to Monday says if it is indeed the solenoid then it's a 4 hour job and the transmission will not have to be dropped. Evidently, the car dealer called the local Toyota dealer service center and the mechanic there said something similar. However, neither of them have seen the car yet, they're just going off of specs. So, we'll see. Hopefully I'm not out a couple thousand bucks in the next few weeks. Thanks for the responses, I'll post the result.
I just bought a 2004 RX 330 (had 97K on it) and my reasons for it are very similar to yours. I've had it a little over 3 months and it's sitting in a shop right now with a shift solenoid problem. It basically won't shift into overdrive, but otherwise drives/shifts perfectly. I've been told a few things--1) the shift solenoids are inside the transmission and therefore the transmission will need to be dropped for the repair and I'm looking at about $2,000 and 2) the shift solenoids are not so far in that the transmission will need to be dropped and it should be about a 4 hour job. The first possibility is from the shop where the car is now and they're essentially like a jiffy lube and the second possibility is from an actual automotive shop nearby that has not actually seen the car yet, they're just going off the VIN, the P0766 code and the specs that they ordered. So I'm not really sure what's up, all I know is that I don't have my car right now and probably won't have it for at least another week and am looking at potentially a $2,000 (maybe more) repair. I love the way the car looks but I'm pretty heartbroken over this. This is my second Lexus and I'm disappointed in the brand. My suggestion is to do tons of research (which I did) and make absolutely sure that you are prepared to spend a couple thousand dollars in case something goes wrong. I plan on keeping mine once it's fixed, but wow, I hope this is the only major issue we have with it.
I finally got the car back yesterday...after putting a new transmission in it. I took it to a transmission shop nearby and they said the fluid was black and suggested a rebuild ($3500). The dealer I bought the car from was able to find a transmission with 29K miles for $1100 and then agreed to split the bill with me 50/50. I ended up paying $1000 and may be getting a little money back, but that's not a guaranteed. I was somewhat shocked the solution to my problem of not going into overdrive was to replace the transmission. I'm guessing the person who had it before me did not take care of it, which is always a possibility when you buy a used car. I'm happy to have it back, but man I hope this is the only major issue we have with it.
Suggestion: Check the transmission fluid condition very regularly, and have it serviced with the correct fluid by a trusted transmission shop (not a quick lube place). Avoid the dealer's transmission "flush". Don't expect that dealer service includes any transmission service.
The black fluid is the result of an internal problem that spread to all other components of the system. It's likely been brewing for a while.
Quattroporte12, sorry that I'm two years late replying to your message. I somehow missed it. When I rented a Murano, it was at Enterprise Leasing. The location that I went to in Tampa, Florida just happened to be across the street from a Nissan dealership. So it appeared pretty easy to get one at that time. There was also a Mercedes Benz dealership nearby, and one time I rented a Mercedes Benz C300 Sport sedan.
Hi folks New to this forum. My wifecalled me and has a warning light she only described as a "circle that is open at the top" with an exclamation point next to it? Without the manual for me to find out what this is, can anyone fill me in? I'd appreciate it, as she works 65 miles away from me and I can't get to her car. Thanks Buck
about a year ago I noticed when I made sudden turns or stops all of my warning lights came on. I knew that it did not make sense that all of the various systems were going down at the same time. When I turned the ignition key off and then back on the lights disappeared similar to a reboot of your computer. I have since gotten used to this sporatic problem and I just ignore it. My daughter has an 04 Sienne and she also gets this problem but not as often as I do. Sounds like this is a Toyota systemic problem. I wonder if anyone else has had this issue or if anyone is aware of any TSB's on this.
What vehicle? My early '99RX300 does not do anything like that, and I've made my share of sudden stops and turns. The warning lights are supposed to come on when you start and off a few seconds later as each system normalizes and to let you know they work. But all lighting while driving sounds unique to me. If VSC, Trac, and/or ABS lights come on that's different. Low oil pressure may trigger a different set of warnings, as would the Check Engine light. If they all light at once from sudden zooming around or stopping and go out as if you are starting the engine, it sounds like it could be a loose ground or connector. I hope the info helps. Let us know...
On my 1999 RX300 the drivers door lock would not open with the remote. I changed out the battery but the problem weas still there. Soon the remote would not open any of the locks. I have been quoted prices from $700 to $3000 to fix this problem. I had replaced the car battery shorttly before the problem started. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have a couple of questions I hope someone that owns an RX330 can answer. I have a 2005 RX330 with the navigation package and the Mark Levison stereo. I also have a HTC Droid Incredible. I am trying to get my phone numbers in the phone book and can't seem to do that. Maybe that is on the phone end and not the Lexus. Is there anyway to get my phone screen to come on the navigation screen? I mean when I'm playing my mp3's I would like to have it show on the nav screen same thing is I am using google maps(I haven't updated my nav maps since I bought the suv). Maybe there is some kind of equipment I can attach to it to get it to do that. Has anyone done this? Also I can not find the list of how to do the owner customizations, such as having your horn beep when locking your car and I think there was even on how to lower your windows or something. (I hope this makes sense what I'm asking for) Does anyone know where to find that? Maybe somewhere online? Also I do my own oil changes. How do you reset the engine maintenance light? I was told once several years ago and should have written it down but I forget how to do it now. Lastly, has anyone added an auto starter on the 2005. I have been told by a couple of independent guys that you can't do this with a 2005 model as it will mess with the electrical system. Has anyone been successful in installing an auto starter and if you have can you tell me what brand you used and or how it was done (if there is a special way or was done in a shop). I know that is a lot of questions but I just have been wondering for a long time and just haven't asked other RX330 owners. Thanks so much for your time in helping me figure these out.
This sounds like the Tire Pressure Monitoring system is notifying of low pressure in one of your tires. But it looks like an upside down horseshoe with the exclamation point inside of the horseshoe.
Never mind! I see that your question has been answered.
Some of the customize options are dealer done, but I think you can disconnect the horn from the lock/unlock yourself. Have you checked the owner's manual? I know it covers the maintenance light; put the key in "ON" and hold down the "ODO" (odometer) button-pretty much the same on all Japanese cars.
On the windows, seats and sunroof it's covered in the manual too (I know it's a PITA as it's as long as the King James Bible), reset the seats just like setting them for the first time. Windows and sunroof run them full open and full closed by holding the switch all the way down and up. That'll do it.
The heater fan in my RX 330 makes a squeaking noise like maybe a bearing problem. Any advice on accessing the fan so maybe I could repair this myself or what the problem could be?
Remove the pollen filter and check that it hasn't sagged down onto the squirrel cage blower wheel or even that some other object, mouse(?), isn't rubbing the blower wheel.
I have a 2005 RX 330, I think we have the exact same problem, I have some "knocking noise" from center console, and under seat left or right area. So I have 2 kind of noise, and my warranty is over now, so what did you do? Would you mind share your experience with me, I haven't take my car to dealership.
I have a RX330 - 05 bought it new (only 3 miles on it) of course I expected a great vehicle for the money I paid. At 90K miles it started falling apart. I have spent over $6,000.00 in repairs in the past 6 months for the following: Timing Belts, Differential seal, water pump, radiator, wheel bearing, etc, etc, the sun roof leaked twice soaking my interior, the headlight seal went out and water got between the headlight and the outside creating a fish bowl inside my headlight, the exterior paint is peeling and last but not least, the CD player goes on and off intermittingly.
Great vehicle huh? I am so sorry I ever bought a Lexus - never again.
Comments
Full article at New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/16/business/16lexus.html
I'm looking to buy one 2004. What do I have to look during walk around inspection?
Timing belt change? Transmission? Light? Electrical?
Thanks
The 2010 is the first RX350 F/awd model with a somewhat functional rear drive system. The new system, also in the Venza and 2010 Sienna, more evenly distributes engine torque over all four wheels' contact patch should you encounter slippry roadbed conditions wherein that is a requirement.
For "base" FWD vehicles the Honda/Acura SH-AWD remains the beat of the best.
I used our AWD RX in a 300 mile drive snow storm about a month ago, it handled very well. As one person said, on FWD bias vehicles, I am not sure how often the AWD is really needed. AWD, due to its more moving parts is more prone to rear drive seal leaks and issues down the road, and uses more gas.
Joe
The manual was in the glove box, but I didn't have the time to try to find out what the problem might be while I was sitting in the dealer's lot. If someone knows that this is merely a programming option, and that it is easily remedied, it would make my buying decision a lot easier. Thanks in advance for any advice you could give me.
Any time the battery is disconnected, the main window power switch on the driver door acts this way.
After battery is connected, I let the car idle and then open every door and open the window and close each one, then go back to driver side and open and close all windows. That should work.
When you go back to the car, while the car is running, try the seat memory, if neither setting changes the setting, for sure that tells you the battery was disconnected.
RX330s do not have electrical problems.
Joe
Thanks for the information. As a matter of fact, I did play around with the seat memory, and when I hit both the memory 1 and 2 switches, nothing happened. I then entered my seat and mirror settings in memory 1, moved the seat a little, and when I hit the mem 1 switch, the seat returned to where I had set it. I guess that tells me that they had the battery disconnected for some reason or other.
We also lowered all 4 windows and raised them back up, but the driver's master switch would still only work on the driver's window. However, we did not do this with the doors open. I'll try your suggestion when I'm back at the car. Thanks again.
The previous owner didn't have all the service performed at a Lexus dealer, and there are no other service records available, so if there is a problem with the power train, the extended warranty would probably not apply. I talked to the service manager at a Lexus dealer, and he said he didn't think that Lexus would honor the warranty because I can't verify that all the servicing was done at the proper intervals. Also, the plastic engine cover (on the passenger's side of the compartment over the alternator and power steering pump) is just lying there loose. It looks like there are 4 fasteners, probably wing nuts or plastic screws, that are supposed to hold this cover in place. Someone never bothered to replace them. This is inexcusable in my opinion. It indicates to me that whoever was working on the car just didn't care very much. I guess I will have to keep looking. I'm thinking that i could probably find a Lexus Certified car at a dealer, and get one that doesn't have all these issues.
Thanks to all for your suggestions.. Wish me luck in my continued search.
I don't know what you are paying for this RX330, but scratchy windshield and missing plastic push clips at $2.30 each should not be a deal breaker. Those push clips are very tricky and if you don't know what you are doing, you can break them, or they easily fall out while taking the cover off.
If you really want the car, find out how much it costs to replace the windshield and negotiate half of the cost into your final price.
For suspension, take it to a Lexus dealer and have them find out what is wrong, and how much it costs to fix it. You might be able knock some more money down if the seller becomes aware of the problem.
Joe
Has anyone had similar problem and how was the problem corrected. I have not driven the vehicle since discovering problem
saga1
However, as to RX330's not having electrical problems...not so. My driver side outside mirror position can not be changed with the mirror control switch (the right side mirror still works fine). I can only change it manually.
At the time I should have said that the pax side one had acted up once as well, it had. It went out at about 5 years but I got no joy on that one from the dealer.
Ours is an '04.
easypar
With that many miles make them do the TIMING BELT and WATER PUMP service. Otherwise that's probably a $700-$1,000 ticket depending on whether you have the dealer or a private garage do it. My wife just turned 63K on her '04 and she still likes it more than the new 350s.
easypar
I replaced our 2004's myself with an aftermarket thinking the car is five years (48K) and out of warranty. To my surprise, the dealer said they had extended warranty on radiators. I had the old one stil, but did not push for reimbursement as they had fixed my foggy headlight free. The gesture that they would have fixed it free was good enough for me.
If you have paid for this repair, write to Lexus and request refund. My 93 Ranger with 145K is still on the original radiator, so are my 2001 Mercedes E430 and 2003 Ford Explorer, and 1997 Dodge Stratus.
A radiator going that fast is a defect and not a norm or maintenance neglect.
Joe
I would suggest you have them check for any outstanding recalls or TSB's
Good luck and good driving !
Anybody else ever experience this? Or ideas I can take into my alignment shop?
Thanks, Don
I don't know a weak battery has anything to do with a stuck shift solenoid. But with all the electronic these days, replacing the battery could reset some programs.
Original battery still?! Great, you got your $ worth. If you're having any electrical trouble with an RX, start there with a fresh, new battery that has a the highest RESERVE AMP rating you can find so it will last a while (I don't know about 7 years though).
I don't think it's likely the battery is the cause of a CEL trouble code for a shift solenoid, but I'd still start with a good battery anyway. If you're out of powertrain warrantee I'd suggest taking it to a trusted TRANSMISSION mechanic and ask if they will do a free diagnostic. Tell them if there is nothing internally wrong you will have them service the transmission with new fluid, filter, and gasket (preferred to the dealer's "flush"). I found a trustworthy and helpful place in Reseda, CA. Let me know if that helps you, and I'll email you directly.
I'd only drive it straight to the diagnostic and not use the car otherwise until the cause of the code is repaired. You don't want to risk damaging the transmission with a stuck or damaged valve, wear debris in the fluid, or anything else for that matter.
P.S. Oh, also changing the battery usually results in erasing the CEL codes and may make it harder to diagnose. If the car starts OK, maybe hold off on a new battery just for now. See what the transmission mechanic has in mind.
Good luck. Please post your findings.
Good luck.
The car is an hour and a half away right now at my cousin's repair shop. They didn't really think it was going to be a big deal until they hooked it up to the computer and found out that the shift solenoid is inside of the transmission (I'm not totally sure that it is, but hey what do I know), so they wouldn't even touch it and said the transmission would have to be dropped to replace it. They did, however, replace the battery so that will probably reset some stuff. I will have to drive it home about 75 miles so most likely the lights will come back on. I'm taking it to a shop on Monday and based on what I've given them (VIN, code problems) they are fairly confident they can fix it. Of course, I'm prepared for them to run the diagnostics and then go "Ummm, nevermind." If they cannot fix it, then I will take it to the local Toyota dealer (the car dealer I bought this from 3 months ago wants me to do that before they'll even remotely consider helping me out) and hopefully they can do something with it. I hope it doesn't come to that because their hourly rate is waaaay higher. The shop I'm taking it to Monday says if it is indeed the solenoid then it's a 4 hour job and the transmission will not have to be dropped. Evidently, the car dealer called the local Toyota dealer service center and the mechanic there said something similar. However, neither of them have seen the car yet, they're just going off of specs. So, we'll see. Hopefully I'm not out a couple thousand bucks in the next few weeks.
Thanks for the responses, I'll post the result.
The black fluid is the result of an internal problem that spread to all other components of the system. It's likely been brewing for a while.
Just my $.02, but free to you.
New to this forum. My wifecalled me and has a warning light she only described as a "circle that is open at the top" with an exclamation point next to it? Without the manual for me to find out what this is, can anyone fill me in? I'd appreciate it, as she works 65 miles away from me and I can't get to her car. Thanks
Buck
Thanks
Thanks alot for your help.
Buck
My early '99RX300 does not do anything like that, and I've made my share of sudden stops and turns. The warning lights are supposed to come on when you start and off a few seconds later as each system normalizes and to let you know they work. But all lighting while driving sounds unique to me.
If VSC, Trac, and/or ABS lights come on that's different. Low oil pressure may trigger a different set of warnings, as would the Check Engine light. If they all light at once from sudden zooming around or stopping and go out as if you are starting the engine, it sounds like it could be a loose ground or connector.
I hope the info helps. Let us know...
Also I can not find the list of how to do the owner customizations, such as having your horn beep when locking your car and I think there was even on how to lower your windows or something. (I hope this makes sense what I'm asking for) Does anyone know where to find that? Maybe somewhere online?
Also I do my own oil changes. How do you reset the engine maintenance light? I was told once several years ago and should have written it down but I forget how to do it now.
Lastly, has anyone added an auto starter on the 2005. I have been told by a couple of independent guys that you can't do this with a 2005 model as it will mess with the electrical system. Has anyone been successful in installing an auto starter and if you have can you tell me what brand you used and or how it was done (if there is a special way or was done in a shop).
I know that is a lot of questions but I just have been wondering for a long time and just haven't asked other RX330 owners.
Thanks so much for your time in helping me figure these out.
Never mind! I see that your question has been answered.
On the windows, seats and sunroof it's covered in the manual too (I know it's a PITA as it's as long as the King James Bible), reset the seats just like setting them for the first time. Windows and sunroof run them full open and full closed by holding the switch all the way down and up. That'll do it.
Re; the phone I have no clue.
I have a 2005 RX 330, I think we have the exact same problem, I have some "knocking noise" from center console, and under seat left or right area. So I have 2 kind of noise, and my warranty is over now, so what did you do? Would you mind share your experience with me, I haven't take my car to dealership.
Great vehicle huh? I am so sorry I ever bought a Lexus - never again.