Ford F-Series Towing Questions
I have a bumper pull horse trailer. Fully loaded, the trailer weight is less than 7500 lbs. I have noticed that the 2004 F-150, 5.5 ft bed, extended cab trucks can tow up to 7800 lbs, while the 5.5 ft bed, crew cab trucks can tow up to 9800 lbs. Is there any difference between the two F-150 trucks in towing cababilites since my trailer weight is below the towable amount? What is the difference in towing between the 2004 F-150 and 2005 F-250 trucks for a 7500 lb trailer?
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When selecting your tow vehicle, don't buy one that will just cover your current situation. Go for the F-250. You will be more relaxed while pulling that trailer.
Are you sure that isn't the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)? That would be the weight of the vehicle COMBINED with the payload weight.
My last half-ton Chevy was rated at 6100 lbs, and that was GVW.
I can't say this enough: Don't get a tow vehicle that just "covers" what you have now. Buy one with plenty of reserve capability just in case. You never know when the trailer brakes might fail, or that driver in front of you decides to stop in the center lane with you only three seconds behind at 70 mph, or the driver in front of you looses his/her load of lumber and you have to make a very abrupt lane change, etc....
I am assuming you have at least a moderate amount of towing experience. If not, have you ever heard of this phrase? "The tail wagging the dog." I've seen this many times on the interstate where the trailer is WAY too big for the vehicle and it is swaying from side to side pushing the tow vehicle where ever it wants to.
Anyway, I digress. I could go on and on with this subject. Get at least a 3/4 ton for that horse trailer. You won't regret it.
Pulling a 6500lb trailer with a truck rated for 9800lb is well within safe parameters. However, did I read right that you you intend to pull it off the bumper? That would not be recommended and would likely be very unsafe.
BTW: I realize the 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton designations are just that, designations. They give no indications of hauling/towing capacities.
If both systems; the truck AND the trailer are working fine, you should have no difficulty stopping. Starting or going uphill is, naturally, not going to be as quick as without a trailer. But, but we know how that works if we have seen a tractor trailer climbing a grade while we wait for a chance to get by.
So, the problems come in when a system fails and the other system is required to stop both the truck and the trailer weight. That can get knuckles white.
Drive ahead. Pay closer attention to what is coming and prepare. Caution can be a really good thing.
Enjoy the miles.
If you're towing a light load, and you're on relatively flat land, or small rolling hills, you can tow in O.D. If the tranny stays in OD almost continually and doesn't keep searching back and forth between OD and 3rd (or 4th) gear then you're okay to use overdrive.
However, if you've towing heavy and each time you want to go 2 mph faster, the tranny drops out of O.D., or if you're trying to climb a hill and the tranny can't make up it's mind what gear to stay in every 30 seconds, then you're much better off locking it out of O.D.
Same goes with regular gears too. If you're pulling a load and climbing a big hill and the tranny's searching between 3rd and 4th. Downshift to 3rd and keep it there for the duration of the climb. You may go a bit slower, but the tranny is spinning faster, slipping less, and able to dissipate heat much better.
If you tow a lot there's a couple of good investments you can make. First -- transmission temperature gauge. You'll acutally be able to track how hot tranny gets pulling a hill. Basically, you don't want your tranny fluid to exceed about 225 degrees for more than a couple of minutes and the fluid looses its friction modifiers and you start eating up the tranny. If you overheat the tranny, it's adviseable to replace your fluid with in a realtive short time to save your self a much costlier repare later on, Other investment is a supplmental transmission cooler - allows you to dump that excess towing heat quicker than stock, and as a result tranny doesn't heat up anywhere near as bad on a tough pull. You've only got an F150, so you shouldm't be towing a skid steer or 12K lb, 5th wheel trailer, but still even with the lighter loads you should be aware of how you're using and/or abusing your transmission.
37 = 3.73 non-limited slip
4L = 4.30 limited slip
4N = 4.10 limited slip
There were a whole bunch of small tweaks to the Superduty drivetrain and chassis in '05 that allowed it to have a bigger payload and towing capacity. Ford had to keep up with Dodge and GM.
Difference between body guide and manual may be for the bed length of your truck. Long bed is heavier and has 35% bigger fuel tank than short bed. :confuse:
Ford VIN Decoder
You can also look on the cover of the rear differential. There may be a coppery-colored tag hanging on it with the code # for axle ratio stamped on it.
Obviously this was expensive so for 2005, they put the F-250/350 on the F-450/550 frame with lower rated springs and axles. Hence the increase in towing capacity.
Also always use automatic for towing. The clutch is a weak link.
Thanks for any help I can get!!!
I just bought one used and it seems abit "up there". I may be 6'1" but there's less of me below the belt than above so it's abit of a hop up. Should get some runnin boards but...
Just joined so I'll say Howdy as well.
heres the link to that hydrolic
New to the F150 world and considering buying a 2010 F150 SuperCrew with the 5.4l engine and a 3.55 rear end.
I have a trailer that weighs 6000lbs DRY!.
The brochure shows one section that GWVR is 7350 but then on the next page the GCWR is 15,000 and the Maximum trailer loaded ratings show 9600lbs for the SuperCrew 5.4 145 Inch Wheel base.
Can someone help me understand what this truck is really rated for?
Can't do that in a chevy they just break all the time. Cheap plastic parts on those chevys just fall off first. I see chevy parts all over the highway. What is that all aboud?