Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

watchorn

yes i have noticed uneven wear on the brakes ie, more wear on the rear. have you ever noticed or experienced humming or even to the extent of thumping when on compression only to find that the noise dissapears when excellerating or when the brake is applied? please advise thanks

jmnapp

I have a 2006 Mazda 3 with an automatic transmission. It has about 3,500 miles on it. Just recently, on occassion, it will stall while at a stop light or traffic jam. The engine just cuts off. It does start back up right away when turning the key. The dealer has checked it out but did not find anything wrong.

Also, there is a wind whistle coming from the left side of the car at highway speeds. The dealer also could not find anything wrong, although he did hear the noise.

Any suggestions?

slate1

I THINK I've got this solved...

I sprayed the bolt where the seatbelt buckle attaches to the seat with some Dupont Teflon Silicone spray and all seems to be quiet now.

If you look between the drivers seat and the center console you'll see a bolt that attaches the buckle to the seat. There is a small plastic lock-washer between the bolt-head and the buckle mechanism, it seems that washer is binding and making the "creaking" noise. I chose the Teflon/Silicone because it's specifically designed for to reduce binding between metal and plastic.

Here's a link to what I used:

Dupont Spray at Lowes

nifty56

Volvo models S40/V40 I think were the early 2000. They also have rear disc brakes that wear out quicker than the fronts which is weird because the fronts do most of the braking,work. Owners of those models also have A/C problems. It appears that we have Volvo brakes as Ford owns part or whole of Volvo. We have gone back to the future for crappy rear brakes. The Volvos' also had vibration problems which were caused by faulty motor mounts, sound familar. So do we have a Volvo or Mazda-Ford..??

ex_tdier

I have a 2006 Mazda 3 with an automatic transmission. It has about 3,500 miles on it. Just recently, on occassion, it will stall while at a stop light or traffic jam.

Welcome to the world of unknowns. This plagues my 05 M3too. It started happening about the same time, 5000 KM (that's metric). At least you know when your stall will likely to happen. The dealer couldnt recreate the problem for me. As of this moment, according to Mazda, your vehicle is operating within spec [so don't bother us]. The latter part is what they really mean. I think the dealers are not doing any more troubleshooting either on this issue. Looks like they have been ordered not to do so by Mazda. YOu may get a road test, but that's about it.

I completed a Mazda reliablitly survey that included info to JD Powers. So, to the poster that mentioned it only looks at reliability for the first 90 days is mistaken. In one of the questions, it asked if I had any wind or road noises.

This seems to be a common problem. And will Mazda do anything about it? What they will do is ensure it's not evident in other model years but leave those of us with the problem stranded. Good job Mazda!!

BTW, can you say, "Class Action Lawsuit"?....I knew you could.

ex_tdier

Good job. My creaking is from the plastic seatbelt housing. No fix for that :lemon:

z71bill

I have been chasing a creaking sound for months - it sounds like it is coming from the area where the seat belt attaches to the car - up by the drivers left ear - I keep thinking it is the seat belt height adjuster mechanism - but I have looked at it - even took the plastic trim off (part way) everything looks tight -

The sound comes and goes - but seems to happen when I "hit the brakes" from 45MPH - its like the body of the car is flexing because of the torque being caused by applying the brakes.

I also get the creaking noise when going slow and turning - like into my driveway - that is on an incline - but - when I get the creaking noise as I pull into my drive way - if I back out and pull in a second time the creaking is gone - it only happens once - but If I drive around the block - then pull into my driveway again - CREAK.

I have also lubed everything - door seals, hinges - moon roof - at times I think I have it solved - but it always comes back.

The class action lawsuit would be a waste of time - unless you are the lawyer - it would take years - so even if you win in 2010 - and get a few coupons for a free oil change and maybe a $200 discount on a new Mazda - it would be a hollow victory. The lawyers may get $100,000,000 in cash but that does not make me feel any better.

brodie2

I also have a 2004 Mazda 3 and have visited my dealership on 7 different occassions for the same problem. The dealership can duplicate the problem however, they have replaced so many parts and the problem still exists. My car has stalled on me in intersections, in traffic, in parking lots. Safety is a HUGH consideration. As long as this problem exists .... our safety is at risk. I would demand that your dealership to another look at this problem - Mazda does know that it exists. Contact the owners, the president of Mazda Canada and demand that they fix this problem. I'm in the middle of doing the same.

nifty56

What parts have they changed? Or did they? Of course when they hook the car up to their equipment they will not find anything. In defense it is the hardest thing to do to track a intermittent problem. How often does it happen? I have heard that, not sure Mazda can, but some dealers,(other makes) can hook the car up to a monitor so when the problem occurs it can record what has failed. Maybe our dealers should invest in such a devise. Recurring stalling problems seems to effect numerous owners that you would think Mazda would help solve the problem. It annoys me that this is a safety issue and should be taken seriously but Mazda doesn't seem to think so. In fact there are independent garages that have such monitors in my area. I know if the stalling happens to me my first stop will be the dealer, if not solved my next stop will be an independent garage. Not interested in wasting my time with Mazda.. :lemon:

ex_tdier

I agree with Nifty, intermittent problems are very hard to troubleshoot as in my case. So, I have to cut some slack to the dealer; however, if Mazda North America is aware of this problem then their engineers are either too stupid to find the solution or they won't do anything until ordered to do so by Transport Canada or the US equivalent. I personally think it's the latter. I have not heard of any complaints on this issue from any Mazda3 International owners.

Again, Mazda's mentality, ideology and beliefs is so freaken close to Ford's that we really should not be calling our cars Mazdas but Formaz or Mazford.

Hearing all this really sickens me. Arggh! Time for my anxiety pill. :mad:

ex_tdier

I have been chasing a creaking sound for months - it sounds like it is coming from the area where the seat belt attaches to the car - up by the drivers left ear - I keep thinking it is the seat belt height adjuster mechanism - but I have looked at it - even took the plastic trim off (part way) everything looks tight -

The sound comes and goes

I got that too. :lemon:

A class action lawsuit would NOT be a waste of time because it would be the lawyers that do ALL or most of the work. That's why we have to pool together and find a lawyer friend that can do this....but in Canada, we don't like to sue one another. We handle most our disputes over some beer and back bacon. If we do go to court, the judge will look at you and say to himself, why should you get something, you [non-permissible content removed]?! then says "dismissed" or award you ~ $1.oo if you have overwhelming evidence. In the absence of tough criminal sentences and lemon aide laws, it's a really bizarre criminal and tort system. No wonder it's a haven for con artists worldwide.

nifty56

Don't forget Volvo, we have their dust producing, wear out fast rear disc. Volvo is not a reliable vehicle, good move Ford buying Volvo. how about....
Volmaz or Mazvol or Mazvolford

gtrplyr

Bill I have the same noise in my O5 5dr, sounds like a creek, mostly going up and down driveways, sometimes on sharp turns or when stopping hard. I brought it in and they told me it was the seatbelt adjuster. I am an auto tech by trade, and I just don't see how the noise can be coming from that, especially since it sounds more like a body creek or plastic moving. Let me know what they tell you, they told me they would call when part was in, but its been two months already.
thanks
Mark P.S If it has not been answerd, cooling fan should be on with a/c, speed controlled by system pressure, and mine continues to run a few secs after vehicle is shut down, normal operation.

z71bill

I agree - I don't think its the seat belt adjuster - I have at times thought it was

The rubber seal (weather stripping) around the doors - wiped them down with silicone - no change

The plastic Side Sill Extensions - if I pushed on them I would get a similar creak - my thought was when the body flexed the plastic was rubbing against the car - I put enough lube on them so they no longer creak when I push on them - but it did not solve my problem

The moon roof - the rubber seal was dry - if I pushed on the moon roof I would get a creak - siliconemade it quiet - but my creak is not

let me know if the seat belt adjuster does anything to solve it - I don't plan on taking my car in until it needs another oil change - which is 3-4 months away.

ex_tdier

Could it be this: http://www.finishlineperformance.com/mazda3/docs/0040.pdf ?

z71bill

This is not the same problem - I did have this done to my car - it solves the THUMP THUMP THUMP noise that sounds like you have a loose shock (strut - whatever).
I am starting to think that the noise is a result of something in the body of the car was not welded properly - maybe it is tack welded - so the flex is causing the metal to move just enough to make a creaking sound.

nifty56

Bill.. if it is what you think it is will Mazda be able to find and fix it? does the dealer have a clue.

z71bill

Last time I had the Mazda3 in for an oil change the service department was backed up - 2 days before they could have even looked at it.

It was no worth the wait - and at that point I really thought I could just figure it out on my own.

Maybe Mazda will issue a TSB for it - maybe gas will go back down to $.99 a gallon - and my AC will start blowing ice cold air - it could happen!

forkdora

"Mazda calls this problem "shift shock" I had mine re-flashed last week - it now shifts very smooth."

Hi, we just bought a Mazda 3 with the same problem. I was wondering if your car continued to shift smoothly after the re-flashing, or if the problem has since come back.

nifty56

Had mine reflashed, so the dealer told me they did it, noticed a slight improvement or is it just me thinking it was OK. Still has a slight harsh shift at start up and outdoor temp makes no difference... If the car you bought was new 2006 than the new reflash should have already been done. Tell them to redo it if it still has a harsh shift.

z71bill

My shift shock problem was 99% solved with the reflash - every once in a while I will still get a very small clunk on the first 1-2 shift in the morning - but I would consider this pretty normal for any car with an auto tranny.

chacobleu

Just a heads up or observation

On the last 5 minutes of drive to work, today I was traveling behind a Lexus IS 350. Rear wheels were caked with brake dust with the fronts relatively clean (observed while making right angle turns). Either they have the same issue or characteristics as the Mazda 3 braking systerm or the tires were rotated and the rims have not been cleaned, since.

adzam3

I have a 2004 Mazda 3 4 door with the 2.3L engine and the Air conditioner cooling performance is definitely substandard. Since I have read quite a few owners on this forum express a similar observation I was wondering if those with the 2.3 L have more complaints about the A/C than those with the 2.0L. The reason I ask is I noticed that with the Engine Radiator fan located so far to one side on the 2.3 L model, the airflow while stopped is really only effective for the far right side of the A/C condenser. The 2.0 L model appears to have the fan centered so it could provide better airflow all the way across when not moving.

nifty56

I have a 2005 with the 2.3 and the A/C sucks

z71bill

Hard to find a place to start -

My AC has been weak from the start - I have done just about everything I can do to get Mazda to resolve the issue - no luck yet.

On one of my many visits to the dealership service department to try and get my AC fixed a Mazda corporate tech was at the dealership - he checked over my AC and of course claimed it was operating as designed. But I did have a chance to talk with him.

I had the same concern as you do about the radiator fan - it seems small and if you don't have enough air flow over the condenser no system will cool very well.

I ask the Mazda tech if installing a second fan that is wired to turn on as soon as the AC compressor comes on would improve the cooling capacity of the system.

His answer surprised me a little - he said it would do little or nothing to improve the system. Since my AC is just about worthless when I am stuck in heavy traffic I really though some increased air flow would help.

I even did some checking - there are many after market fans available - I almost bought one - I was going to hook it up with a toggle switch so I could turn it off and on when ever I wanted - and if it improved my AC I would have added the automatic control feature. I think the cost was around $100 for the kit.

The thing that stopped me from adding a fan (besides the advise from the Mazda tech) was a little test I did on my own.

I took my air compressor and hooked it up so I could blow air through my condenser - wife thought I had lost my mind - I also stuck a thermometer in my AC vent so I could monitor the temperature of the air.

The result was - no improvement - the air temp did not change - the compressor still cycled on and off the same - and I concluded - it was a waste of time to add a fan.

dride

Some people have terrible AC's, some people have great AC's. What makes them different? Is it perception? How can this be since we all drive the same model? For example: If person A's AC blows at 40 degrees, and person B's blows air out at 60 degrees; why can't person B look at A's car and figure out why A's works better? What makes one car so much better, can it be better parts? Are all of the 3's made in the same factory?

ex_tdier

It's not only about perception but facts too. Some people will post that their A/C is perfectly fine when indeed they own a Mazda ((hopefully a 3) with auto climate control while others say there's is fine because they have it cranked up to the max or at level 3 or 4.

The A/C *should* cool just fine at level 1 but it doesn't. Having it higher than level 1 makes inside your ride quite noisey but that may be ok for many since they have there Ipod or sound system cranked up quite high anyways so they like or dont mind the "noise"

I pretty much dismiss those people who say their A/C is fine with their 2005 3's and earlier model years.

adzam3

Thanks for the info, I can see that the attempt to flow more air with a compressor did not show improvement. It does seem however that moving vs standing always helps with any A/C. How much is due to higher RPMs and how much due to increased air flow may be uncertain. Since there appears to be plenty of room in front of the left side radiator it should be easy to install an electric fan that blows into that side and not interfere with any existing cooling design. I'm am planning to find a suitable size fan and mount it there for extended testing. Once I get some results in a few weeks I can let others know it there is any benefit. One thing about the plenum for the existing fan is it narrows down to less that 1/2 in clearance from the radiator so this may also limit the airflow by creating backpressure. I believe good flow design always minimizes interference with the stream. Just a basic visual inspection of the radiator shroud leads me to the conclusion something is wrong with this design. If this is the case any attempt to blow air will not entirely improve the performance. I may also have to modify this distance in order to give the added air a fair chance. If you want to do some other testing on your own, in front of the A/C condenser with the engine running you will feel significant air moving into the radiator on the right side, on the left side there is almost no flow. (Note: Make sure to avoid the back (engine) side of the radiator near the fan opening, the blade has plenty of power and no finger screen!)

z71bill

Pep Boys use to carry auxiliary cooling fans - they were over in the off road 4x4 section - but when I went in to look at them they told me they no longer carry them. I looked on-line for one but did not know if the method they use to install it would work on the Mazda3. I like to be able to hold stuff in my hand - its hard to tell from a photo.

It is hooked on to the radiator with zip ties that are put through the fins - I had a vision of a radiator leak caused by the zip tie -

If my compressed air test would have even shown a small improvement in air vent temp I would have moved forward with the fan.

One other option would be to see if any parts from the RX-8 could be used on the Mazda3 - the RX-8 uses a 2 fan system.

I am trying to recall exactly what the Mazda tech told me concerning the condenser - its been a while - He picked his words very carefully - he said Mazda was aware of the AC ISSUE - he also said that the evaperator / air handling box was a new design - also said that the condenser and compressor had been used in other vehicles and had not been a problem. This lead me to believe it was not the compressor or condenser - which pretty much leaves the evaperator - which is one of the parts that was redesigned - made smaller I think.

The Mazda TSB to add the diffusser in front of the evaperator also makes me think that Mazda knows the evaperator is the problem -

I will guess it would cost Mazda a small fortune to rip out the small evaperator and install a larger one. This is IMO the reason Mazda is not fixing the problem. They simply do not want to spend the money.

ex_tdier

I am trying to recall exactly what the Mazda tech told me concerning the condenser - its been a while - He picked his words very carefully - he said Mazda was aware of the AC ISSUE - he also said that the evaperator / air handling box was a new design - also said that the condenser and compressor had been used in other vehicles and had not been a problem. This lead me to believe it was not the compressor or condenser - which pretty much leaves the evaperator - which is one of the parts that was redesigned - made smaller I think

Wow, you got more info from your dealer and mechanic than 99.9% of the rest of us.

mandalil84

I just purchased a 2006 Mazda 3 at the end of April. The car has currently stalled twice, the last time being this morning. The stalling occurs when I creep up to an intersection and the car shudders then turns off. The car easily turns back on.
It has 2500 miles on it. I took it to be serviced after the first incident. The paperwork stated that it was an internal failure and they updated the calibration: EGI system, purge solenoid valve, and the powertrain control module.
However, being only 22 and this being my first purchased car on my own, this seems like a load of [non-permissible content removed].
Not sure what my next step should be. Any suggestions?

ex_tdier

Join the club! That's common. No fix for either. The wind whistle is even mentioned in the survey I got from Mazda. I suggest getting a lawyer.

ex_tdier

BTW, is there any way you folks in the US can get the part numbers of the 2006 Mazda3 w/climate control and the 2004, 2005's?

sidruid

Since I'm surely not the only one looking at a new Mazda3, and i've just read the last 300 messages on this forum without getting a clear picture, could someone knowledgable please provide a roundup...

Does the 2006 Mazda 3 still have:
The stalling problem?
Weak AC?
and is the AC improved in the Grand Touring (vs the touring)?
Other specific (and semi-disasterous) defects?

Which of these problems might be apparent at the dealership?
thanks-in-advance.

jmnapp

As far as the stalling problem goes, my dealer spoke with a Mazda field engineer about my M3 stalling in stop and go traffic. The engineer says there is going to be a service bulleting regarding that problem sometime this month. It is going to involve some type of thing called a "flash" where they reprogram the computer that controls something in the engine. Currently the computer "gets confused" in stop and go traffic so it needs to be reprogrammed.

Luckily I haven't had any problems with my A/C but still have that wind whistle as highway speeds.

mandalil84

I brought my car in this morning to be looked at about the stalling issue. They said Mazda field engineers are arriving tomorrow and he'll have them look it over. Thanks for the info on the "flash." I hope that makes a difference.

ex_tdier

The part number in Canada is the same for both the Mazda3 and Mazda5 (the 5 has auto climate control).

ex_tdier

I brought my car in this morning to be looked at about the stalling issue. They said Mazda field engineers are arriving tomorrow and he'll have them look it over

NO offense, but it sounds like the dealer is telling you bs. They don't get their engineers to come to a dealership, especially since this problem has been going of for sometime and effecting a lot of Mazda3's.

In any case, if anyone can verify that there is indeed a flash out there for stalling, please post the warranty code number.

nifty56

So the part number for the evaporator is the same for the 04-05-06 cars. :sick:

ex_tdier

It goes back to what I've been saying from the beginning: The better cooling is as a result of the auto climate control.

brodie2

It is BS. I've had this problem 8 times along with 20 other problems. Mazda bought my car back this week - they have no clue what the problem is and there are so many cars out there with the same problem. Don't look to Mazda Canada - they are hopeless. Try to get rid of your car - that's the best advise I can give. This car is dangerous.

obtube

I am hating my mazda3s 5 speed hatchback. Here are my problems;
Sometimes my 3 drives great and then some days it drives like I'm dragging an anchor. No rhyme nor reason - use the same quality gas all the time - have switched and used a different gas for a while - no difference.

I get 20-22 mpg consistently - 50/50 highway/city driving - no A/C, no defrost. The best mpg I got was 25mpg once.

I have had my car at the dealer 3 times with nothing achieved - no CEL - nothing to fix is their motto.

I'm ready to sell - any help or ideas?

steph_stanton

Is anyone else experiencing problems with their stock 2006 Mazda 3 Sedan CD player?

My CD player will spit CD's out over the smallest bumps, it will spit out a CD out when parked if the interior gets hot and now won't eject a CD.

Just wondering if anyone else is having the same problem.

ex_tdier

The flash info given DOES sound like it's BS. I spoke to my dealer today and he has NOT heard of anything. He thinks it may be the wiring harness. He went on to say that if the fix is the flash that'll be GREAT news. However, he has NOT heard of the flash fix coming down the pipe to address the issue.

Onto some good news: Dealer told me that there is a new fix coming out that should "help" witht the poor A/C. He said to hang-tight!

z71bill

I think I have this problem -

A month or so ago my car was getting hard to start in the morning - I called service and set a time to have the car looked at - I thought the fuel pump was going bad - again.

I had less than 1/4 tank - so I decided to fill up the night before - Next morning car started fine - I thought the problem went away - no need to take it in because they could never find the problem. But as my tank goes down my car becomes harder to start - I thought it was just a strange coincidence - but I have been starting to think this is a real problem.

The hard part is - what can possible cause a hard start condition just because the gas tank is low?

ex_tdier

The hard part is - what can possible cause a hard start condition just because the gas tank is low?

Dirty or contaminated gas tank, inadequate fuel pressure? Just guessing.

brodie2

The stalling problem is not due to the wiring harness either - had mine replaced at least 3 times - they even tried a new computer.

mandalil84

Apparently the flash is real. The service manager I spoke to last night said a "reflash" will be available at the end of this month because so many mazda 3s are having a stalling problem. I've got my fingers crossed...and an appointment.

brodie2

Mazda Canada does send it engineers in to look at an engine when the dealership is stuck for an answer.... however, they gave me a brand new computer in my Mazda 3 - and the problem still didn't go away so I really don't believe that this "flash" thing is going to work.

tsgeisel

What they're talking about is basically reprogramming your car's computer, which uses flash memory, similar to the storage on an ipod Nano, or in a digital camera, or in your cell phone, or in any number of 21st century devices.

Y'all are describing it as if it were some kind of mystic and arcane procedure, when the reality is quite mundane - if a bit far-reaching.

Anyway, the more I read this thread the happier I am with my non-Mazda3 hatch, which had been, for a while, the exact car I was looking for...