Thanks for the info on the fuel, I am just about ready to put in my first fill up since the dealer with my 2005 double cab 4x4. So far it seems this first tank is going through very fast. But there is no engine ticking going on yet, thank God. I really like the truck and I am going to fill it with the mid grade on this fill and see how it rides.
TacoSupreme - You read my mind. After taking the car in to the dealership, only to get a "could not recreate sound sited by customer", I decided to drive it pretty hard over some speed bumps. It's got to be the drivetrain. Seems like it's bouncing when the gas isn't on. Let me know what you find out.
I just picked up my 05 DC SB 4x4 on Friday and I noticed after about 100 miles that I also had the soot starting to build up. I checked the oil but to early to tell. I will let you know. It was built on 03-17-2005.
Crutchfield has an auxillary input that plugs into the CD changer on the back. It allows for two RCA inputs. I plan on using the stock stereo until they come out with some options for aftermarket decks. The cost for the peice through Crutchfield is $60.
Lift Kit question: I've got the DC, LB, TRD Sport, Pre-Runner. Is it better to purchase/install a lift kit with rear spacers or add-a-leaf? My knowledgeable non-Toyota mechanic is recommending the kit with the spacer/block, but he specializes in lowered trucks. Please help. Thanks!
I had two long trips and hear this loud noise... Please tell me I am not crazy! I have an '05 double cab, 4x4, TRD Off Road package, 6 speed man. When there a big wind blowing from driver side to passenger, I hear a loud buzzing noise. It is coming from, I think, front passenger door (or that vicinity). It doesn't happen all the time... seems like if the wind is hitting the truck just right and a combination of speed (over 65+), I hear it... What it isn't... VENT (I shut it off)... don't feel any wind coming in. If it happens around 75... and I slow to about 65... it stops. If it happens around 85 and I drop to about 75... it stops. HELP! I had a 2001 Tundra extended cab, 5 speed man. Loved it. But start bitching since day one not having 4WD. Wife couldn't take the complaining and allowed the trade... now she's complaining. Otherwise other than missing the captain seats, cargo light, and locking tail gate... Really no regrets with the Tacoma.
Sorry to hear that your dealer was unable to resolve your noise problem. I agree with you that there is no way that your new muffler is causing the noise.
I started to detect the noise shortly after i purchased the truck. Originally, it was most prevalent in the right front and oddly enough, was more pronounced when nobody was sitting in the front passenger seat.
For some reason, the "clunk" can hardly be heard in the right front anymore but continues to occur in the left front. It usually happens when i travel over a sharp edged irregularity in the roadway such as a small pot hole (I try to avoid the big ones) or a man hole cover that is not flush with the road surface (Ft. of Ten Road has plenty of these).
For some reason, I think that the sound is caused by a tight rubber control arm bushing etc. or perhaps the cab mount. At any rate, I'll stop back and see if my dealer has any new ideas. I'll keep you all posted.
'05 double cab,6 ft. bed/ w towing package, built in Ca. on 11/04.
What I'm seeing is lots of black stuff behind mud flap and on lower portion of bed and back to the bumper. I'm at almost 10,000 miles, just had 2nd oil change last week. It doesnt seem to be using oil either.
I wonder if I could go to my Toyota parts department and order just the sub enclosure, and maybe open up the hole a little bit for an 8" sub. Is there just one sub or two? I'd like to see a picture of the sub enclosure, if you could. Thanks.
You are not crazy. I am having the exact same problem with my 2005 doublecab prerunner. The noise only happens when it is really windy or I am go at speeds excess of 80pmh. It is really annoying, and I cannot pinpoint the location of the sound. I've already posted previous messages about this problem and you are not alone. It sounds like the noise is coming from just below the front windshield. I am actually taking my truck to the dealership this week. I will keep you posted on what they say.
The sub is an 8" already, but i'm sure there are better quality subs out there that will fit. Like I said. I don't think you'll be disappointed in the sound quality unless your a big rap fan. I'll take a photo post it in the nest day or two. There is just one sub in the enclosure.
How often do you wash it, and what color is it? Mine is silver, and I haven't washed it for about 3 weeks now, and don't have black soot build up on the mud flap or the bed.
Although since I have the exhaust tip, it extends the exhaust pipe about 2 inches. The exhaust pipe however, is usually covered in the black soot by the time I usually wash it. The outside isn't too bad, except for the very bottom, but the inside, and around the rim is completely black.
What kind of oil are you using? Are you pretty heavy on the petal at times, or pretty laid back? :shades:
I think some of us are talking about different sounds. The sound I have is clearly a metallic rattle or banging noise when I go over holes and bumps. I picked my truck up this morning, and I guess to humor me the lubed all my bushings and such up front just in case it isn't the muffler hitting something as they still claim it is. This is in no way the muffler hitting something. I crawled up under the truck this morning and there isn't even anything near the muffler (it is so much smaller than the stock one anyway) plus all the stock hangers and piping weren't touched at all, just a direct replacement of the muffler. If the problem is what they say, the stock muffler should have been hitting something also! Anyway, I haven't been able to tell if the noise is still there because I have my trailer hooked up today, I'll be sure to post a follow-up.
Angela6 - Do you have the optional skid plate on your truck? The original ones had problems and the problem you are describing sounds very similiar to the sound I was having with the original skid plate. Anyway, I think the members that have responded to this thread are having 2 different issues.
For those of you that have the original plate or are insterested in getting the aluminum plate, I received the redesigned one today and had no problems at all on my commute to work at 75MPH. No vibrations whatsoever. The design seems much better than the original one. I am happy to see Toyota respond so quickly to this issue because my original plate was a real safety hazard.
I have a 05 Taco Sport auto v6. I think my speedometer is reading about 5 mph or so high at highway cruising speeds. Has anyone else noticed this. If so has anyone done anyhting about it? Thanks John
I have silver, DC LB 4x4. Im generally not hard on the gas except when the cruise control runs it up to 4500rpm or so. Ive had the dealer change my oil both times and Im not sure what they use. I recieved the 1st 4 oil changes free from my dealer. After those are up, I'll be switching to Mobil 1. Maybe I'll check into an exhaust tip to see if that will put the exhaust out so the soot want get in the bed. It doesnt come off very easy.
My speedo is definitely off on my DC LB with only the tow package. When the speedo shows 50mph my GPS shows right around 48mph. When My speedo shows 80mph my GPs shows right around 77mph. Im not sure which size tires that the speedo is calibrated with (3 different sizes available). I also think it has to do with the varying gas milages stated here. My last tank was 20.42 with about 50/50 highway/around town driving. My tires are 245/75-16. You can compare diameter, rotations per mile on tirerack.com
Not sure why you're getting so much soot. But you can make it easier to wipe off by applying a nice layer of wax on the paint. Might as well polish and then wax the whole truck while you're at it.
"My speedo is definitely off on my DC LB with only the tow package. When the speedo shows 50mph my GPS shows right around 48mph. When My speedo shows 80mph my GPs shows right around 77mph."
This is typical. I've driven many vehicles with my GPS with me, and speedos usually read low. I've heard that typical tolerances are +3%/-0% for accuracy. Maybe your dealer can share what Toyota's exact tolerance is. The rented Chevy I have this week is exactly like your truck.
I haven't GPS clocked my Tacoma yet, but will when I'm back in town.
My truck is silver and the dealer intalled it because it was a free factory replacement. I took the old one in for service for the vibration and it cracked, so they ordered me one of the new ones.
Hi - I'm considering a small lift for my new truck. DC, LB, TRD Sport, Pre-Runner. Apparently, for the rear lift, you can either get spacers or AAL (leafs). What would the preference be for a guy like me that will be using the truck 99% for on-road use, and maybe 60% freeway driving? :confuse: Please advise!! Thanks.
I am looking to buy a ladder rack for my new taco, at first I was waiting for trac rac to design it and now they say that they won't make one for it. What a bummer. I was really looking forward to being able to take it off when I don't need it. But the problem now is that I can't find any manufacturer that makes one for it. If anybody has had any luck or any suggestions I would appreciate it. I have a short bed d-cab.
Was just about to say the same thing. Also, it's been said before, but if you are like me, and don't like cleaning brake dust off of wheels, make sure and wax those too, while you're at it. (I use the same wax that I use on the paint, no special wax for the wheels.) Works great.
Yeah, the cruise control thing is annoying. I'm considering taking mine in for that and the seat belt tensioner (driving me crazy as well...).
I haven't found a direct fit, but my local truck equipment has developed some options.
#1 - Blind fasteners through the plastic bed rails, into the metal rail underneath.
#2 - An aluminum strip attached behind the tee track and into the side of the Trac-Rac rail. This option would require drilling holes in the strip to match the holes in the tee track. The tee track would be unbolted and reattached, with the new part between the bed side and the tee track. The Trac-Rac rail would be drilled and tapped to accept screws though the new strip. The tee track screws may need to be replaced with longer versions. This option requires no drilling of the truck, so it'll work for the lessees out there.
#3 - A clamp welded to the Trac-Rac rail and hooked into the tee rail. This option will make it harder to use the sliding tie downs. This is the way factory camper shells are attached.
These guys don't just sell truck equipment, they build bodies from scratch, attach dump and box bodies, etc... I trust them. I'l probably going with #1 or #2. If you don't have the ability to do #2 yourself, expect to pay much more, as fabricators charge by the hour. They attach racks via #1 all the time to utility bodies and it's quite durable.
To see the underside of the rail, unscrew the driver side bed box and look up from the ground with a flashlight. You'll see the way the metal meets the plastic inner bed. My truck is red, so it's easy to see. If you have a black truck, this may be easier to see on another example at the dealer.
I wouldn't attach anything to the plastic top rail covers. The covers are attached only with plastic snap posts.
Lifts are good for off-roading, but on-road handling suffers. Think before you lift.
If it is 4WD, still give it some though before you do it. The truck will handle differently on twisty or slippery roads, towing will be different, and the bed will be higher and possibly harder to load.
There are 2 sounds observed by me. First, the popping sound when you hit a hole, when the front driver side tire is lowered. Second, the clanging sound of metal touching when you go over humps. I can only hear the second sound when the window is rolled down.
Someone in this forum has suggested that the claning metal sound comes from the leaf spring of the rear suspension.
I have a 2005 Taco DC SB 4x4 Auto. The first tank of gas I got about 17.7 miles to gallon, which was mostly highway. Of course the gas was from the dealer and that was probably regular gas. For the first 270 miles, I filled it up with 15.2 gallons. Which raises another question, It is supposed to have a 21 gallon tank in it. At just under a quarter tank when I filled it, would mean that there should be 5.8 gallons left. Now at just under a quarter tank, I never seen any truck still having 5.8 gallons left in it. I bought this truck because it is a Toyota and for many other reason, to include the gas mileage. As I drive 70 miles to work one way. Now this is not the main reason, but alot of you have been claiming 20-21 miles to gallon. I sure would love to see that. My average speed is 68. Could this be true or am I just missing something?
Reading back on this forum I see lots of guys talking about putting 265/75-R16's on ther '05 Tacoma 4X4's.
Thing is, the owners manual doesn't say this tire will fit and all of the tire and suspension shops I have talked to have all told me the same thing: 265/75-R15's WILL RUB.
I'd like to get some nicer (meaner) looking tires without lifting the truck, but it looks like a 265/70-R16 is the biggest I could go without issues.
Has anyone ACTUALLY put the 75's on their truck with no problems? I do not have the TRD package...
Looking to buy a Taco at the end of the summer, was wondering if anyone has used the power port in the bed and has anyone bought a new taco in or near Louisiana. Was thinking of getting a Double Cab Short Bed, 4x2, Indigo or silver, with the Trd Sport #2(w/tow), extra mile B, and Jbl stereo. And yes i have to put up with Gulf States Toyota. Thanks for any input.
I have used my outlet on a number of occasions. I used it over the weekend to power my laptop so that I could read some "how-tos" and have the pics without having to print them all out.
I also used it over the weekend to power a drill, then a sander. Worked with no problems. My only wish is to be able to turn it on without having the truck on, that would be great....hmmm may have to take a closer look at that one.
I have 265/75/16 Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo's. They look great. I was able to get the dealer to give me $300 for the stock tires before I drove it off the lot so I did the switch before I even took delivery of the truck.
Get the 265/75/16's. You'll love them.
I have not experienced any rubbing and I like to turn my steering wheel hard.
"5tdcsb" - I'm in your corner on this one. I absolutely love my truck, but I am definately not getting the mileage that some folks are bragging about. The best I've got so far is just under 19mpg, and that was 100% freeway driving. The only thing that I can figure out is that this truck loves to perform, and with that performance goes your mileage. On the freeway I go 75-80 mph, and I think that's what kills my mileage. I think for the most part, everyone getting 20+ mpg have either the small trucks (I've got the DC LB Pre), or keep the speedo at 65. Am I right or way off? :confuse:
I agree. I live where it's hilly, and have the DC SB Offroad 6sp 4x4. supposed to be 16/20. I drive like a grandma. (OK a grandpa), for the sake of gas mileage, and after 2000 miles I can't break 15 around town. I say Town because it's NOT a city. No stop and go really. Lot's of 35 mph rural.
I had used ONLY 87 octane for the first 1800 miles, and got 14-15, closer to 15. I am trying 93 for hoots, and so far, 1/2 tank at 150 miles. IMHO so far, thats a little more than 10 gal, and so a little less than 15mpg. And I even tried driving nicer than usual. I admit it FEELS better on 93, but I could give a rats [non-permissible content removed] about feel. I want miles.
No real road trip yet. I'll get back after a 400 miler this weekend.
I just returned from round trip to see family last weekend and did some experimenting, I drove 70mph got 21.5mpg, drove 80mph, got 20.25mpg, and in city getting 18.88. There seems to be a wide difference in mpg from what has been stated on sticker(I know its an average)., I have only achieved sticker mpg once going 45-50mph, so realistcally, i getting better than avg in city and lower than avg on highway, i do believe prerunner v6 dbl cab gas mileage is 18-22, they should of done better to get realistic numbers :confuse:
I have seriously been thinking about re-working the power supply. I'm not sure where the power supply is mounted, but the manual says something about it being in the rear. Not sure if it's in the rear of the cab or rear of the bed. Anybody found it?
I might leave the rear power point alone, and install a whole new system with a 115v plug mounted somewhere nice in the center console inside the cab. I don't know why Toyota didn't put a plug in the cab and the bed, not just the bed. I have a new 700 watt power supply just sitting on my workbench. I could wire it how ever I want so that it could be turned on w/o the ignition being turned on. I would probably go to the Toyota parts counter and see what kind of switches they have that would fit in the stock switch locations and could be placed inline w/ a relay to the new power supply.
Yeah, the factory wheels have a clearcoat on them just like the body paint does. So don't use aluminum or metal polish on the wheels, too abrasive. Just polish the wheels and then wax 'em. The brake dust will wipe off a lot easier. Personally I like Mother's polish/wax, the 'FX' line, or even better, the 'Reflections' line.
I have a new 2005 2x2 Manual transmission Tacoma with 1800 miles on it. The speedometer is 5 MPH off. The dealer is trying not to deal with it. I say it is a safety problem.
Also, when I acclerate at 2200 RPM I get a loud vibration. Any others see this.
I have a 2005 DC LB 4x4 tacoma with auto transmission with 3360 miles on it. Just got back from Maine and highway MPG alone was 24.56 at 60 MPH with cruise on. I use 93 octane (premium) gas and feel the truck does its best gas mileage at 60. At 65 MPH I've gotten around 21-22. When you punch it I can literally watch the gage drop, but what a thrill! I put in Maine 265 miles driving around with 6 miles in 4x4 & about 25 miles driving at slow speeds of 10-15 MPH scouting an area for moose and deer with the rest of the driving going mostly 55-60 getting 22.01 MPG. Not bad for a DC LB 4x4 with the towing package.
Be careful with juicing these power supplies running thru the truck. Remember, wires can only hold so much power (700 watts is pretty generous). If you gotta get big power, buy a generator. I deal in construction supplies and I can't tell you how many times I see people burn up a converter or smoke a fuse/relay due to overloading. Also, amperage of tools is going to play a major part. I think the power supply in the bed was a slick idea. Toyota probably left it out of the interior because so many people use small items inside and usually use the small converters that plug into cig lighter- just a thought. Hey, I had to hard wire a converter to my battery and the box rolls around in the floor, it could be worse for you guys!
For free picture hosting go to a site like www.imageshack.us/ . It will let you browse your folders. Find the picture you want, open it, then click on "host it". It will then show several different web address where the picture can now be found. Pick the one that's titled 'thumbnail for forum 1' right click to copy it, then come back to this forum and paste the whole address. It will show up as a picture.
Or if you're having problems, you can just e-mail it to me, but I think we'd all like to view your nice truck. kkeller6@cinci.rr.com
BTW, I know how you feel about keeping your new truck clean. I wash mine about 3 times a week! My wife is getting mad at me for the time I'm spending with my new 'toy'.
Yeah, but it would be nice to not have to even plug in a converter. Just have it all built into the truck.
As for the wiring, that's no problem for me. For the inverter, I'll run 8 or 6 guage power right off the battery terminal, and use the proper relays and fuses. I used to professionally install custom car stereos for a living. I'm pretty much the king of big power wire, fuses, wire loom and zip ties. I'm pretty anal about my wiring.
I don't plan on running any appliances that will use anything near 700 watts. I just happen to have one that's that size, just sitting on my workbench. Even if I did pull over 700 watts the power supply has a built in overload circuit, and two 50 amp fuses. Anyway, "Go big or stay home."
I have a 97 taco I want to lift. My concern is ride. Did the toytec lift change the ride at all? I do not want my truck to beat me to death. The last lift kit I had (on a chevy) was like driving a truck with no suspension on it. I have heard rumors about the coil spacers giving a harsh ride, but I don't know anyone who has one to ask. Thanks.
Comments
I have an '05 double cab, 4x4, TRD Off Road package, 6 speed man.
When there a big wind blowing from driver side to passenger, I hear a loud buzzing noise.
It is coming from, I think, front passenger door (or that vicinity).
It doesn't happen all the time... seems like if the wind is hitting the truck just right and a combination of speed (over 65+), I hear it...
What it isn't... VENT (I shut it off)... don't feel any wind coming in.
If it happens around 75... and I slow to about 65... it stops.
If it happens around 85 and I drop to about 75... it stops.
HELP! I had a 2001 Tundra extended cab, 5 speed man. Loved it. But start bitching since day one not having 4WD.
Wife couldn't take the complaining and allowed the trade... now she's complaining.
Otherwise other than missing the captain seats, cargo light, and locking tail gate... Really no regrets with the Tacoma.
I started to detect the noise shortly after i purchased the truck. Originally, it was most prevalent in the right front and oddly enough, was more pronounced when nobody was sitting in the front passenger seat.
For some reason, the "clunk" can hardly be heard in the right front anymore but continues to occur in the left front. It usually happens when i travel over a sharp edged irregularity in the roadway such as a small pot hole (I try to avoid the big ones) or a man hole cover that is not flush with the road surface (Ft. of Ten Road has plenty of these).
For some reason, I think that the sound is caused by a tight rubber control arm bushing etc. or perhaps the cab mount. At any rate, I'll stop back and see if my dealer has any new ideas. I'll keep you all posted.
'05 double cab,6 ft. bed/ w towing package, built in Ca. on 11/04.
Although since I have the exhaust tip, it extends the exhaust pipe about 2 inches. The exhaust pipe however, is usually covered in the black soot by the time I usually wash it. The outside isn't too bad, except for the very bottom, but the inside, and around the rim is completely black.
What kind of oil are you using? Are you pretty heavy on the petal at times, or pretty laid back? :shades:
Angela6 - Do you have the optional skid plate on your truck? The original ones had problems and the problem you are describing sounds very similiar to the sound I was having with the original skid plate. Anyway, I think the members that have responded to this thread are having 2 different issues.
John
Maybe I'll check into an exhaust tip to see if that will put the exhaust out so the soot want get in the bed. It doesnt come off very easy.
This is typical. I've driven many vehicles with my GPS with me, and speedos usually read low. I've heard that typical tolerances are +3%/-0% for accuracy. Maybe your dealer can share what Toyota's exact tolerance is. The rented Chevy I have this week is exactly like your truck.
I haven't GPS clocked my Tacoma yet, but will when I'm back in town.
My truck is silver and the dealer intalled it because it was a free factory replacement. I took the old one in for service for the vibration and it cracked, so they ordered me one of the new ones.
Thanks in advance, Dave
Was just about to say the same thing. Also, it's been said before, but if you are like me, and don't like cleaning brake dust off of wheels, make sure and wax those too, while you're at it. (I use the same wax that I use on the paint, no special wax for the wheels.) Works great.
Yeah, the cruise control thing is annoying. I'm considering taking mine in for that and the seat belt tensioner (driving me crazy as well...).
#1 - Blind fasteners through the plastic bed rails, into the metal rail underneath.
#2 - An aluminum strip attached behind the tee track and into the side of the Trac-Rac rail. This option would require drilling holes in the strip to match the holes in the tee track. The tee track would be unbolted and reattached, with the new part between the bed side and the tee track. The Trac-Rac rail would be drilled and tapped to accept screws though the new strip. The tee track screws may need to be replaced with longer versions. This option requires no drilling of the truck, so it'll work for the lessees out there.
#3 - A clamp welded to the Trac-Rac rail and hooked into the tee rail. This option will make it harder to use the sliding tie downs. This is the way factory camper shells are attached.
These guys don't just sell truck equipment, they build bodies from scratch, attach dump and box bodies, etc... I trust them. I'l probably going with #1 or #2. If you don't have the ability to do #2 yourself, expect to pay much more, as fabricators charge by the hour. They attach racks via #1 all the time to utility bodies and it's quite durable.
To see the underside of the rail, unscrew the driver side bed box and look up from the ground with a flashlight. You'll see the way the metal meets the plastic inner bed. My truck is red, so it's easy to see. If you have a black truck, this may be easier to see on another example at the dealer.
I wouldn't attach anything to the plastic top rail covers. The covers are attached only with plastic snap posts.
Have fun!
Lifts are good for off-roading, but on-road handling suffers. Think before you lift.
If it is 4WD, still give it some though before you do it. The truck will handle differently on twisty or slippery roads, towing will be different, and the bed will be higher and possibly harder to load.
Someone in this forum has suggested that the claning metal sound comes from the leaf spring of the rear suspension.
Reading back on this forum I see lots of guys talking about putting 265/75-R16's on ther '05 Tacoma 4X4's.
Thing is, the owners manual doesn't say this tire will fit and all of the tire and suspension shops I have talked to have all told me the same thing: 265/75-R15's WILL RUB.
I'd like to get some nicer (meaner) looking tires without lifting the truck, but it looks like a 265/70-R16 is the biggest I could go without issues.
Has anyone ACTUALLY put the 75's on their truck with no problems? I do not have the TRD package...
thanks,
--Scott
I also used it over the weekend to power a drill, then a sander. Worked with no problems. My only wish is to be able to turn it on without having the truck on, that would be great....hmmm may have to take a closer look at that one.
Kind of hard to do....where would it get it's power?
Get the 265/75/16's. You'll love them.
I have not experienced any rubbing and I like to turn my steering wheel hard.
I had used ONLY 87 octane for the first 1800 miles, and got 14-15, closer to 15. I am trying 93 for hoots, and so far, 1/2 tank at 150 miles. IMHO so far, thats a little more than 10 gal, and so a little less than 15mpg. And I even tried driving nicer than usual. I admit it FEELS better on 93, but I could give a rats [non-permissible content removed] about feel. I want miles.
No real road trip yet. I'll get back after a 400 miler this weekend.
I might leave the rear power point alone, and install a whole new system with a 115v plug mounted somewhere nice in the center console inside the cab. I don't know why Toyota didn't put a plug in the cab and the bed, not just the bed. I have a new 700 watt power supply just sitting on my workbench. I could wire it how ever I want so that it could be turned on w/o the ignition being turned on. I would probably go to the Toyota parts counter and see what kind of switches they have that would fit in the stock switch locations and could be placed inline w/ a relay to the new power supply.
Just kidding, yeah, I'll post some pics if someone can let me know how.
Also, when I acclerate at 2200 RPM I get a loud vibration. Any others see this.
Or if you're having problems, you can just e-mail it to me, but I think we'd all like to view your nice truck. kkeller6@cinci.rr.com
BTW, I know how you feel about keeping your new truck clean. I wash mine about 3 times a week! My wife is getting mad at me for the time I'm spending with my new 'toy'.
As for the wiring, that's no problem for me. For the inverter, I'll run 8 or 6 guage power right off the battery terminal, and use the proper relays and fuses. I used to professionally install custom car stereos for a living. I'm pretty much the king of big power wire, fuses, wire loom and zip ties. I'm pretty anal about my wiring.
I don't plan on running any appliances that will use anything near 700 watts. I just happen to have one that's that size, just sitting on my workbench. Even if I did pull over 700 watts the power supply has a built in overload circuit, and two 50 amp fuses. Anyway, "Go big or stay home."