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I have an '05 double cab, 4x4, TRD Off Road package, 6 speed man.
When there a big wind blowing from driver side to passenger, I hear a loud buzzing noise.
It is coming from, I think, front passenger door (or that vicinity).
It doesn't happen all the time... seems like if the wind is hitting the truck just right and a combination of speed (over 65+), I hear it...
What it isn't... VENT (I shut it off)... don't feel any wind coming in.
If it happens around 75... and I slow to about 65... it stops.
If it happens around 85 and I drop to about 75... it stops.
HELP! I had a 2001 Tundra extended cab, 5 speed man. Loved it. But start bitching since day one not having 4WD.
Wife couldn't take the complaining and allowed the trade... now she's complaining.
Otherwise other than missing the captain seats, cargo light, and locking tail gate... Really no regrets with the Tacoma.
I started to detect the noise shortly after i purchased the truck. Originally, it was most prevalent in the right front and oddly enough, was more pronounced when nobody was sitting in the front passenger seat.
For some reason, the "clunk" can hardly be heard in the right front anymore but continues to occur in the left front. It usually happens when i travel over a sharp edged irregularity in the roadway such as a small pot hole (I try to avoid the big ones) or a man hole cover that is not flush with the road surface (Ft. of Ten Road has plenty of these).
For some reason, I think that the sound is caused by a tight rubber control arm bushing etc. or perhaps the cab mount. At any rate, I'll stop back and see if my dealer has any new ideas. I'll keep you all posted.
'05 double cab,6 ft. bed/ w towing package, built in Ca. on 11/04.
Although since I have the exhaust tip, it extends the exhaust pipe about 2 inches. The exhaust pipe however, is usually covered in the black soot by the time I usually wash it. The outside isn't too bad, except for the very bottom, but the inside, and around the rim is completely black.
What kind of oil are you using? Are you pretty heavy on the petal at times, or pretty laid back? :shades:
Angela6 - Do you have the optional skid plate on your truck? The original ones had problems and the problem you are describing sounds very similiar to the sound I was having with the original skid plate. Anyway, I think the members that have responded to this thread are having 2 different issues.
John
Maybe I'll check into an exhaust tip to see if that will put the exhaust out so the soot want get in the bed. It doesnt come off very easy.
This is typical. I've driven many vehicles with my GPS with me, and speedos usually read low. I've heard that typical tolerances are +3%/-0% for accuracy. Maybe your dealer can share what Toyota's exact tolerance is. The rented Chevy I have this week is exactly like your truck.
I haven't GPS clocked my Tacoma yet, but will when I'm back in town.
My truck is silver and the dealer intalled it because it was a free factory replacement. I took the old one in for service for the vibration and it cracked, so they ordered me one of the new ones.
Thanks in advance, Dave
Was just about to say the same thing. Also, it's been said before, but if you are like me, and don't like cleaning brake dust off of wheels, make sure and wax those too, while you're at it. (I use the same wax that I use on the paint, no special wax for the wheels.) Works great.
Yeah, the cruise control thing is annoying. I'm considering taking mine in for that and the seat belt tensioner (driving me crazy as well...).
#1 - Blind fasteners through the plastic bed rails, into the metal rail underneath.
#2 - An aluminum strip attached behind the tee track and into the side of the Trac-Rac rail. This option would require drilling holes in the strip to match the holes in the tee track. The tee track would be unbolted and reattached, with the new part between the bed side and the tee track. The Trac-Rac rail would be drilled and tapped to accept screws though the new strip. The tee track screws may need to be replaced with longer versions. This option requires no drilling of the truck, so it'll work for the lessees out there.
#3 - A clamp welded to the Trac-Rac rail and hooked into the tee rail. This option will make it harder to use the sliding tie downs. This is the way factory camper shells are attached.
These guys don't just sell truck equipment, they build bodies from scratch, attach dump and box bodies, etc... I trust them. I'l probably going with #1 or #2. If you don't have the ability to do #2 yourself, expect to pay much more, as fabricators charge by the hour. They attach racks via #1 all the time to utility bodies and it's quite durable.
To see the underside of the rail, unscrew the driver side bed box and look up from the ground with a flashlight. You'll see the way the metal meets the plastic inner bed. My truck is red, so it's easy to see. If you have a black truck, this may be easier to see on another example at the dealer.
I wouldn't attach anything to the plastic top rail covers. The covers are attached only with plastic snap posts.
Have fun!
Lifts are good for off-roading, but on-road handling suffers. Think before you lift.
If it is 4WD, still give it some though before you do it. The truck will handle differently on twisty or slippery roads, towing will be different, and the bed will be higher and possibly harder to load.
Someone in this forum has suggested that the claning metal sound comes from the leaf spring of the rear suspension.
Reading back on this forum I see lots of guys talking about putting 265/75-R16's on ther '05 Tacoma 4X4's.
Thing is, the owners manual doesn't say this tire will fit and all of the tire and suspension shops I have talked to have all told me the same thing: 265/75-R15's WILL RUB.
I'd like to get some nicer (meaner) looking tires without lifting the truck, but it looks like a 265/70-R16 is the biggest I could go without issues.
Has anyone ACTUALLY put the 75's on their truck with no problems? I do not have the TRD package...
thanks,
--Scott
I also used it over the weekend to power a drill, then a sander. Worked with no problems. My only wish is to be able to turn it on without having the truck on, that would be great....hmmm may have to take a closer look at that one.
Kind of hard to do....where would it get it's power?
Get the 265/75/16's. You'll love them.
I have not experienced any rubbing and I like to turn my steering wheel hard.
I had used ONLY 87 octane for the first 1800 miles, and got 14-15, closer to 15. I am trying 93 for hoots, and so far, 1/2 tank at 150 miles. IMHO so far, thats a little more than 10 gal, and so a little less than 15mpg. And I even tried driving nicer than usual. I admit it FEELS better on 93, but I could give a rats [non-permissible content removed] about feel. I want miles.
No real road trip yet. I'll get back after a 400 miler this weekend.
I might leave the rear power point alone, and install a whole new system with a 115v plug mounted somewhere nice in the center console inside the cab. I don't know why Toyota didn't put a plug in the cab and the bed, not just the bed. I have a new 700 watt power supply just sitting on my workbench. I could wire it how ever I want so that it could be turned on w/o the ignition being turned on. I would probably go to the Toyota parts counter and see what kind of switches they have that would fit in the stock switch locations and could be placed inline w/ a relay to the new power supply.
Just kidding, yeah, I'll post some pics if someone can let me know how.
Also, when I acclerate at 2200 RPM I get a loud vibration. Any others see this.
Or if you're having problems, you can just e-mail it to me, but I think we'd all like to view your nice truck. kkeller6@cinci.rr.com
BTW, I know how you feel about keeping your new truck clean. I wash mine about 3 times a week! My wife is getting mad at me for the time I'm spending with my new 'toy'.
As for the wiring, that's no problem for me. For the inverter, I'll run 8 or 6 guage power right off the battery terminal, and use the proper relays and fuses. I used to professionally install custom car stereos for a living. I'm pretty much the king of big power wire, fuses, wire loom and zip ties. I'm pretty anal about my wiring.
I don't plan on running any appliances that will use anything near 700 watts. I just happen to have one that's that size, just sitting on my workbench. Even if I did pull over 700 watts the power supply has a built in overload circuit, and two 50 amp fuses. Anyway, "Go big or stay home."