00 dakota 4.7l

andy_jordan

Well, gee a whole month without being able to get
here - long story.

Anyway, I'm back but don't have time to read the
1,000s of posts I missed on various topics - so if
anyone asked me something sorry, I missed it, but
feel free to ask again.

jbauer

I'm sure I have some Material Safety Data Sheets, on this material in my office. But this material is a semi rigid insulator that is used to insulate cold and hot water lines in the construction industry. It comes in various diameters and can be purchased at any Home Depot, Lowes, etc. and best part... it is cheap. I am going to buy some and install it tomorrow using wire ties to hold it in place. I'm quite sure it will do an adequate job of keeping the cold air from cooling the filler tube because it will allow the oil heat to remain hot within the tube. It may take a couple of days of cold weather to test it's performance but I'll let you know of the results. The installation should take all of about 10 min.

tgr1

My '00 4.7L quad cab is telling me the error code P1687. If anyone has the factory service manual, could you check the code for me? I first checked it with only 100 miles on it, and it showed the code then, and still does. Since the check engine light is not coming on, its probably a very minor problem. I understand these newer engines, with the more advanced diagnostic chips, go into much more detail than before. The '97 Dodges only had codes such as "12" or "23". Now, it's "P1687"! Thanks.

jbauer

If you read posting #52 you'll read about a proposed cure for the foaming problem in the oil filler tube. I bought the material this a.m. and had it installed in about 45 min. a little longer than I thought but still not too long. The material cost $1.77 for a 6' length of Armaflexwhich was 1" x a 3/8" sidewall. It was pre-split for easy installation.

Now we'll wait and see if the insulating properties are sufficient to eliminate the condensating problem in the tube. For those of you who are interested I'll report back in a couple of days.

bpeebles

Here is what the service manual says about DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) P1687;
"No MIC BUS Message "
The description is
"No CCD/J1850 messages received from the Mechanical Instrument Cluster (MIC) module"

What does is all mean? The Service Manual describes several different 'categories' of failure 'modes'.

• Pending
  
• Conflict
  
• Suspend
  

"Pending" failures have to be detected under the very same 'conditions' before they are really considered a failure. Given this, and the fact that your MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) did NOT come on, I suspect you are seeing what is known as a "pending" failure that has only been seen once in the last 40 warm-up cycles under the very same conditions.

Ill bet you Dak has not SEEN 40 complete warm-up cycles since the battery was first connected. (There is a definition for a warm-up-cycle in the manual)

Give it some more time... You mentioned yourself that it only has 100 miles on it. The on-board computer is still "learing" how to control the engine/transmissinon. The system is quite complex and must be given the oppertunity to program itself under the various conditions. My Dak is still 'learning' how to idle under some unique conditions and I have over 4K miles on mine.

I highly recommend to anyone that has an intrest in the computerized engine management of the DAK 4.7L... Get the Service Manual.

tgr1

I think I'll order the manual. For the $100, it'll probably pay for itself just knowing about the possible problems before I bring it in for any repairs.

bpeebles

My thoughts precisely! I ALWAYS ask the salesman to 'throw in' the service manual as the 'dickering' comes to a close. At that point he does not want to 'loose the sale' over the cost of a book and concedes.
Keep in mind that I am the type that enjoys a good read through a service manual. Too bad all of the 'good points' from the various auto manufactures couldn't be combined into one vehicle.

Some turn the alternator on/off depending on engine load and to assist engine braking.

Others (Like dodge) have extensive diagnostic capabilities that are quite capable.

Still others have different intake tube lengths that are 'selected' for torque improvements under certain conditions.

One (I am aware of) even 'programs' the valve timing on the fly for great power and superb economy.

Unfortunately, very few of the 'grease monkeys' that work on cars are even aware of these technological abilities. Thus, I am very critical about who works on my automobiles.

tgr1

Today, with 1,000 miles on the odometer, and halftime of the Dolphin football game, I went out on an errand. I figured most of my initial breakin was done, so I said what the heck, le'me see what this baby can do. I hand timed a simple 0-60 mph, using the speedometer, and came up with about 7.8 seconds! Now that's quick- for any stock truck, except for maybe a Lightning, RT, or an old Syclone. Its incredibly quick- for a vehicle with this size and utility. I've got the limited slip 3.92, so my mileage may suffer, but so what!!! Other than maybe my '82 Supra, this is the quickest vehicle I've ever owned.

jbauer

For those of you who are interested in posting #54 you can read my report in posting 287 of topic 861. Short and long of it...it didn't solve the problem.

henne

has anyone had the ticking in the dash fixed?

thanks,

robert

chadc777

I have heard a few people ask this question, but no one seemed to want to answer it. Is the condensation in the oil filler tube really a problem? Do all engines gather condensation in them but usually in places unseen, like the inside of the valve covers? Granted the valve covers stay warmer compared to an uninsulated oil filler tube, but isn't it still there?

Basically, has anyone notice water or foam where it really matters...in the crankcase / on the dipstick?

Chad

bpeebles

You are correct!!All engines exhibit this phenomena. (One just cannot SEE it on some engines.)

I follow many fora (not just edminds.com)in an attempt to get the best possible basis of this 'condensation problem'. I can say for CERTAIN that no one has reported any emulsified oil on the dipstick of the DC 4.7L engine.
WIth that said, I have read of the oil-fill-tube being completely filled with the so-called 'foam'. I hav also experienced it personally. This condition plugs up the PCV system creating even WORSE conditions within the crankcase.

Best advice... Wipe out the oil-fill tube regularly.

I soak 2 paper towels every few days since I found the plugged PCV system initially.

metallian

Could someone tell me which climate control positions activate the a/c compressor and which do not? If I don't get a switch, at least I should try to find out the settings. Thank you!

chadc777

This is for my 98 Dak, but when I test drove a 2000 quad, the controls looked the same.

On the following modes:
A/C Max
A/C floor/vent
A/C vent only
heat floor/defrost
heat defrost only

Off the following modes:
heat floor only
heat vent only

I use the term heat only to diffrentiate between A/C on and A/C off since even in "heat" mode, the temperature dial can be turned to the coolest setting and be blowing fresh unheated outside air.

Chad

bees1

Does anyone else's wire-loom rest on the valve cover? I asked the service dept right away & they said they'd look at other trucks but it was probably a manufacturer's issue & they can do nothing. I didn't realize that it could be a problem with the valve cover. I was thinking more about the wire-loom burning through. The tape is already getting sticky. Thanks for the info. from the service manual (which I'll point out)! I wish I had thought of asking for the manual as well.
Bees

stvdman

VEHICLE- 2000 Quad Cab, 4.7l V-8, AUTO, Sport package, Black Paint, 3:55 limited slip, Tire/Handling group, HD service Group, Electrical convenience pckg.
Likes:
-POWER (SMOOOOOOOOOOOOTTHHHHHHHH)
-LOOKS
-CONVENIENCE(DOES ALL I NEED)
-ROOMINESS
-FOG LIGHTS (HAD TO RE-WIRE MY MUSTANG FOR FOG
ONLY ILLUMINATION)
-HEATER(IT HIT 50 DEGREES HERE TODAY AND IT
WORKED WELL)
-PRICE (WHEN COMPARED TO SUV'S)
DISLIKES
-SEATS (TOO MUCH LUMBAR BOLSTERING)
-FORWARD CAB PILLAR(OBSTRUCTS FORWARD VISION)
-PAINT QUALITY
As you can see not too many dislikes. This thing HAULS [non-permissible content removed] for a stock pickup and I should know as I have owned an F-150 Lightning(1993. Its not quite as fast as that was but I am impressed. And is it smooth? Hell yeah. I also own a 1995 mustang gt with an AUTO and before I put in steeper gears and a few extra goodies I believe I would have been hard pressed to beat this new truck. She only has 400 miles on her so far so as the mileage increases so will my posts.

bpeebles

(bees1) Yes, I found a wire harness resting on BOTH valve-covers. After reading the specific warning in the shop manual against this. I made some 'adjustments' to fix it. I pulled the stand-offs (on the valve-cover studs) to the very end of the studs and made some bends in the harness.

Wire is quite flexible and can be 'trained' to go where you want it, Just bend it with your hands as sharply as needed. (I used to wire $500,000 computers for a living) NEVER PULL ON A CONNECTOR!!

Again-- The valve-covers are of magnesium which has very different properties than steel or even the plastic valve-covers on some engines. The shop manual warns against ANYTHING touching the valve-covers or risk wearing a hole due to vibration.

busenitz

What do you manual-tranny owners think of this
combo? Someone said the shifting can be a bit
rough.

andy_jordan

I may be naive, but surely rough shifting in a stick shift is a user problem, not a transmission problem.

jwm2

Mine works just fine. Have 4500 miles sofar shifting is still a pleasure for me. I would recommend it to anyone else considering.

keg3

need some help here. for those of you who have an AUTO trans. with the new 4.7l try shifting into 1st gear manually. i tried this past weekend and no luck. i can get into 2nd gear but not 1st gear manually.the gear selector just wont go any further than 2nd. cant notice any shifting problems while in drive so whats the deal here? is my trans. f'ed up? any input would be helpful here.

wolf99705

Hi all,

I have placed an order for a 2K 4x4 SLT Club Cab 4.7 5 Speed. The dealership is in Kellogg Idaho. I live in North Pole Alaska. The drive will be about 2300 miles. Does anybody have any suggestions concerning a long trip as soon as I leave the dealership. Are there any special things I need to do or watch on the drive? Thanks for any info.

Greg

wolf99705

Hi all,

I have placed an order for a 2K 4x4 SLT Club Cab 4.7 5 Speed. The dealership is in Kellogg Idaho. I live in North Pole Alaska. The drive will be about 2300 miles. Does anybody have any suggestions concerning a long trip as soon as I leave the dealership. Are there any special things I need to do or watch on the drive? Thanks for any info.

Greg

bpeebles

(wolf99705) I did almost the same thing with my Dak when I first got it. Within the 1st tankful of gas, I embarked on a 16-hour drive with 3 adults and a cab-high cap filled with stuff.

As I recall the owners manual has one driving pretty slowly for the 1st 40 miles. Then "occasional bursts of full-throttle acceleration" for some time after that.

My experience with breaking in a modern 4 stroke OHV engine is that one must consider the seating of the piston rings. Much of the rest of the engine has such tight tolerances that traditional break-in is not the same as it once was. (ie...The seating of the valves is exceptional in toady's new engines)

Keep it cool and make sure there are occasional bursts of acceleration and deceleration. The oil is very busy keeping things cool and washing away any machining residue. The deceleration is the best way to seat the rings. (high vacuum in the combustion chambers.)

The 'tension' of the piston rins on the 4.7L is considerd 'high' for a modern engine. However, this has been shown to increase the reliability of the ring-sealing on high-milage engines.( The cast-iron block and carbon-composite girdle should increase reliability too!!)

DO NOT MAINTAIN A CONSTANT SPEED FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME!

reed4

I'm curious if anyone knows or has read what the "rear wheel" HP and Torque numbers are for the 4.7 Dakota. I believe the 235hp and 290ft lbs. torque are taken from the flywheel? Also would be curious how much more hp & torque is lost in the auto trans vs the 5-speed manual by the time the rubber meets the road.

Thanks...

shawnagren

I also have the 4.7L with the auto trans. I tried shifting into 1st and it went in fine. This was with the truck stopped, I didn't try it while I was moving. I know that on an F150 that a friend of mine rented, it physically wouldn't go into 1st until the truck dropped below a certain speed. Maybe this is your situation. Hope this helps. Shawn

stvdman

I did the same thing, stopped and she dropped right into first gear. This would be a huge concern if it didnt due to trying to pull my boat up a boat ramp in 2nd just wouldnt be cutting it.

henne

hey, i have the 4.7 auto and i tried the 1st gear thing, mine went in 1st sitting still and moving, i even got going pretty good in 2nd and downshifted and it still worked, rpm went to 2600 but thats ok. you must have a problem in your shift adjustment.

i hope this helps

bookitty

At long last, I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it is not an oncoming freight train. I spoke with Ernie this A.M. @ Daimler/Chrysler, and my unit is status "D" and is scheduled to be built the first week in March. He provided me with the VIN and suggested that I speak with him the week of the 02/21 for further update. I am a happy camper. Thank you very much for your continuing input and edification along with education.

Bookitty

houtslaw

4.7 is set up to run on 87 octane; with a chip tuning to higher octane it would still pass emissions and have more HP and torque; chip would also eliminate speed limiter and rev limiter; anyone know where to get one?

wolf99705

Greetings all, please don't blast me for what may be a dumb question, but I am going to ask. I ordered a 2K Dak Club Cab 4.7 5 Speed 4x4 about a month ago and am weighting for it to be delivered. Here is my question: How much can I expect to be able to tow on a trailer? I know what Dodge prints as a weight rating, but is there any margin there? The tractor and trailer will weigh almost a thousand more than the weight Dodge lists. Can I pull this trailer safely with electric brakes? Thanks for any information.

andy_jordan

Simple answer - no!!!

You don't say what the rear end is - I assume the 3.92, but it sounds like you are trying to tow in excess of 7,000#. Sure the truck will probably do it - but you will invalidate the warranty in an instant, not to mention wear out the engine, clutch etc.

My personal rule is never to exceed 80% of the stated weight limits for any length of time, but that is probably overkill - certainly no more than 90% for me though.

houtslaw - a chip in the 4.7????? Guess we're just going to have to disagree on that one.

themacguy

I've spoken to - back in Jan. - several companies about the chip issue. A couple said they were 'working on one" & would be ready by spring/summer of 2000. Jet was one (contact Marty @ [www.Jetchip@aol.com]) his reply to my query: "Yes i make a module for this vehicle it is a part #90002 and retails for 289.95
This part will not remove the top speed limiter.
Thanks Marty@jet."

A Houston Dodge performance tuner that I have heard NOTHING but good things about, replied (& I mean while I was on-line @ 2:00 AM on night): "no info on the speedltr, but we;ll have it once we have the computer...
doing lots 4.7 work here..take care mpi" jghunter@nol.net

Hypertech is still pondering sales figures.

However, I'm interested ONLY in mileage - this truck is 'way muy fasto' for me. The HP curve is 'peaky,' and my 20 years of racing experience with spiked (re: flat, tall curve - high redlines, and quick dropoffs) Porsche & Vette engines is that chips very, very rarely help overall driving... spend your money on tires & fatter antisway's. Your big power gains will come from the simple cat back/header/air cleaner/underdrive pulley/added fuel delivery stuff. PLUS, this engine has those odd little plugs that may make supertuning a bit troublesome. Especially with a chip at this point. But what am I talking about - this is a TRUCK, not a race car! Let's get some more mpg first.

My speed limiter is 'not working at this time' (patience bookitty, nearly ready to divulge - I DO value my warranty), I'll tell all soon - Promise.

houtslaw

Talked to them; after I figured out they didn't have one, I didn't pursue it much further; they sd they were working on it but having a tough time with the computer code but I got the idea I wasn't talking to the right guy.

Sd maybe in the spring; I use my 4.7 auto as a daily driver and very light hauler; boxes to storage, crap to the boat, Costco/Price club warehouse type runs, boxes to storage from the office. Thing really rocks as it's set up so I guess I can live without a chip. V8 power makes me grin all the time; the other little truck people don't know what to make of it with their 4 bangers and sixes; and the size of the truck is so perfect. Tundra's and F150's have a huge step up and the 2 wheel drive version of the Dakota is just an easy entry deal with the club/crew or whatever they call the extended cab provides a place for very occaisional people hauling and locking up of briefcase etc.

Now that the clicking has stopped I'm really getting happy. Miles are approaching 3k and it's really starting to run. Been varying the speed a lot and standing on it at 60 with the OD off to get it to kick down into the high gear end of second. Cool.

If anyone figures out why the clicking fixed worked, let me know. JOHN

knkresort

John/Houtslaw,

The old adage about looking a gift horse in the mouth comes to mind, but then since you paid norht of $20k, it makes sense to know what "makes things tick." :-) [I know, bad pun....]

KnK

henne

party time, i can drive and hear that sweet little
4.7 whisper down the road and roar when i ask it,
and its all thanks to (houtslaw), that tsb fixed my
ticking and my truck is so quiet i cant believe
its the same truck, the dealer was so confused that
this would actually work, but whammo, ticky gone,
ticky gone gone.

the tsb is for trucks with the 4.7 made before nov
23rd 1999, so go get this done now, it will change
your whole outlook on your truck.

robert

themacguy

Probably only for the Grand Cherokee's 'unique' usage, but I noticed a Jet chip listed in my Winter/Spring 2000 Performance Products (catalog #7J) for the Jeep G/C and 4.7l on page 79. Go to: [www.performanceproducts.com] and get your free catalog(s). Noticed they have a STAINLESS Borla cat-back exhaust for the 4.7 G/C. Jardine has one listed there as well. Interesting that K&N doesn't show a filter in their listing - since I have one in my Quad already. I ordered the little Tornado Air Mgt. thingy... okay, okay I haven't got anything better to do - so I'll give it a try and report the results. Should be entertaining. :-P

edermar

Has anyone determined if K&N has filers available for the 4.7 Dakota at this time? I would be interested in some thoughts on this.Primarily I hope to better the gas mileage. Thanks
Ed

henne

does anyone remember someone saying that the valve
covers will wear trough if the wiring looms are
touching them because they are a lighter softer
metal?

Would like to hear,

robert

johnboy9

I understand k&n filter #33-2084 will fit the
4.7 . It is for a Dodge 5.2/5.9 engine .
The cheapest I found was at Auto Zone for $45.00
Johnboy9

themacguy

The filter I bought has a number for the 99 Jeep G/C 4.7l - I don't know, and am surprised that the 5.2 / 5.9 would fit. I'll try HARD to find my box this weekend...

henne - scroll up to Post #46, this Topic for bpeebles' answer. Works for me.

keg3

got the k&n in (#33-2084). fits fine (even though its spec 'd for the 99 5.2). dont notice too much difference in the way of low end torque, there might be some increase,i havent really had the chance to test that area of it, but there is definately an increase in power at higher rpms while on the highway. its doing what it should. go get one.

andy_jordan

Not clear from your post - did you just buy the filter or the whole air box?

swobig

with the 4.7L engine and was impressed. Had a 96 Ext. Cab Dak. and the 2000 was a big improvement. Had a 5.2L and the 4.7L seemed to have a little more punch, plus much better fuel economy (or lack of in the 5.2L). Holding out for a Quad Cab, but there hard to find, especially if you want to pay close to invoice...

baditude

Ok motor heads, who Knows the availability of a
performance chip for this knew bad boy on the block?

mrb9

As a fellow "motorhead" I know the answer for which you seek.. I talked to a rep at JETCHIP just this very day and he told me that part# 90002 or 90002-S( modified exhaust or intake only) will work, BUT---- some of them are problems fitting. Aparently the ECU has three plug ins, the one on the right is the one that is were the chip plugs into. The problem being that the chip extends the plug in about three inches. Thus creating a situation were the ECU does not fit back correctly, it interferes with the bracket. Anyway he says the chip works great (16-19 horsepower gains) but it does not get rid of the top speed limiter. Anyway hope this was helpful, still awaiting my new QC.

themacguy

get in touch w/ marty at jetchip@aol.com / i believe it's part #90002 - you can reference me if you like... this chip does NOT remove the speed limiter. get back to me directly if the address is wrong. i might have some other sources by then.

houtslaw

Tell me all; would like to dump the limiter too. Please post all info. Thanks.

mwolak

Regarding the speed limiter in the chip, just what is the speed at which it limits?

henne

anyone notice that it not only limits the speed but also your cruise control? the cruise will not work above 85, i talked with 2 dealers and they said its for safety.

would like info on cruise and speedlimiter eliminators
robert