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Toyota Prius: Problems & Solutions
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Just try the full tank computation. Fill your tank till the first click on the fuel nozzle. Zero out one of your odometer readings. Drive no less than 200 miles till your next fill up. Before you fill up again, note down that odometer reading. Devide that reading to the number of gallons you put in to fill up the Prius again. That should be a fairly accurate mpg consumption for your Prius. Also, try to fill-up at a temperature close to the original fill-up. Too much air temperature variance affect the bladder part of your fuel tank.
I own a 2004 Priuis with 14k on it. I have never been able to get more than 48MPG on it. I guess we are all in the same boat.
I have one trouble though. When i press the power switch it doesnt turn green in the indicator on it. Is anyone haveing this problem?
I don't own a Prius, so please bear with me. Are you saying the trip computer doesn't have an average MPG reading, which you reset when filling up?
re: stevedebi - "Are you saying the trip computer dosen't have an average MPG reading.." The MPG information display shows you 3 readout on the same screen. One is the average reading that tells you your average MPG since the last time you reset it. The second is a current display which tell you the instantaneous MPG at that instant you are in now. This is what I was referring on my #56 posting. The third is a bar graphical display of you last 30 minutes MPG in 5 minutes increments.
to: Linda1. Keep us posted on you MPG when your odometer go past the 10,000 miles reading. It should be higher by then.
I had to do to the dealer yesterday to complain about the swede like covering on my armrest. It's starting to peel out from the front. They said they will replace it.
You must explicitly request it from the dealer, since scope is limited to just certain conditions contributed by some gas station pumps and the some types of gas itself.
That TSB covers erratic gauge behavior too. And computer component is involved in that case.
My 2004 Prius has a little over 20,000 miles on it. And my VIN is included in that TSB, but I certainly don't need it. Mine tank & gauge have always worked perfectly. Much of that is likely due to using only low-sulfur gas, which thankfully will be available in every station nationwide by the end of 2005. Sulfur is known to affect sensors, causing them to give false readings.
The number of that TSB is EL010-04.
JOHN
I spoke to the dealer and he assured me that they didn't do anything with respect to the engine or timing. My driving habits have not changed, so I suspect something has happened.
Has anyone had this problem before and if you have, did you find a solution?
Thanks in advance.....Dave
Dennis
Oil change - Your engine may have to work harder on a dip stick that show a full indication rather than a 3/4 indication. Some people in this post recommend a 3/4 level for optimum mileage performance.
Tire rotation - If you look at the tire info sticker by the driver's side door, the front tires is 2 psi higher than that of the rear tires. If upon rotation, the service guy failed to readjust tire pressure, the front tire will be 2 psi less than the recommended tire pressure. This will create some sort of a drag and affect mileage.
Recheck these items yourself after the service and don't always assume the service guy did it right.
If you are able to run by the (a) Toyota dealer again while it is happening drive into the service area and if, after explaining why you would like them to, at the very least, get in the car and see/feel the problem while it is happening since it is intermittent, they refuse, demand to speak with the Service Manager. If the car really is undrivable, then it is a legitimate emergency. If it is fine to drive at least you would have them on record (make sure they write down what they see) stating that they saw/felt the problem. Then you can make an appointment to have it looked into.
Short of moving, is there any other Toyota place you can go to? These guys are awful.
I keep track of the actual miles per gallon versus what shows up on the display. Prior to my 10k checkup, the difference between the real and the displayed mileage ranged between .4 and 1.9 miles per gallon (in every case the actual mileage was less).
What I did not notice was that since the 10k checkup the difference between the real mileage and the displayed miles per gallon has significantly increased. I just filled up my tank this morning and the displayed MPG was 49.1 but the actual mileage was 42.6! Most of the other differences were in the 2.8 to 3.9 mpg difference.
I accept the fact that perhaps the prior time I filled up the tank it might not have been completely full. However the average difference between the real and estimated mpg has more than doubled since the 10k checkup.
I called the service department and they said they would be happy to check out the car. I have my Excel spreadsheet printed out so they can see how dramatically the MPG has dropped
If you have any suggestions as to what is going on, I would appreciate hearing any theories.
Thanks in advance.....Dave
http://avt.inel.gov/tpfart.html
It's making me think twice before I purchase a Prius. My main question is, will the Prius perform just as well as say a camry after 5-6 years and 100k miles?
Anyone out there have that many miles on their Prius?
Thanks
Important NOTE: They are also most likely just driving these Priuses "like a regular car" i.e. NOT using Hybrid driving tricks like pulse driving, coasting, etc. ANY driver under ANY circumstances will have lower MPG if they don't drive "less wastefully." (is that a word?)
Over on greenhybrid.com, there are first generation Prius drivers with 45K and 55K on their cars who have averaged 45.2 and 46.0 MPG over the life of the car and have NOT seen "over time" decreases.
Each owner will get their own MPG based on how they drive, where they live, what kind of driving they do, etc etc ad infinitum. The credo "Your Mileage May Vary" is one of the truest statements around....
One government study will not be the last word on anything....:)
Could anyone tell me how much of this is BS and if these guys know what they're talking about? I see that this is not news to many of you. Thanks!
Bonster
1. Do you have the Smart Entry Function? Are able to open the doors to let you in? If you have one and are able to unlock the door, then someway the key fob is communicating with with car.
2. You mentioned about atempting to start the car with your fob. Do you mean inseting the key fob into the slot and pressing the start button? Did any of the indicator lights on the display panel lit up? If the power mode does not change to "ON", then there could be a number of suspected areas. It could be just a power wiring harness, a fuse, the power switch itself, or the Power Source Control ECU.
Answer these questions first before we could go further down thru the diagnostic process. The dealer's technicians telling you about 4 ECU not talking to the scanner may be somewhat extreme and exagerated. It they have no idea yet of what's going on, then maybe they may have it escalated to the district Toyota Prius service tech.
Thanks!
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Can anyone help me solve this problem?
So, do this; return to the way you drove it when you first got it...and . wash and wax it, and it will have less drag as the air passes over it...and air up the tires...I am very sure if you do these little things, your mileage will increase..
In the early 80's I bought a Nissan Maxima diesel wagon to get off the the poor mileage of my Ford Squire wagon..the Maxima gave me 33 miles per gallon but I was soon pushing it over 80 on the highwawy..the mieage dropped.
After every oil change, washing and checking the tires it incrseased the mileage back up dto the 33....
If you =___________make the effort to improve the mileage, I am sure it will increase
http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?n=173&sid=173&a- - rticle=7756
I would say 3 years and 48k miles is about the life of a standard OEM lead acid car battery. $300 seems like a very big ripoff. You can get the best car battery going for under $100 with a 6 year unlimited mileage warranty. Unless Toyota has put in some oddball battery I would go to Sears to have it replaced. I have not had a vehicle towed for over 15 years. I have only had Chevy Trucks which are very reliable. Three times in 6 months and I would be looking for the lemon law lawyer.
Any out of the ordinary service needed, visual under the hood okay (no loose/cracked vacuum hoses or corroded cables) this a new problem or always been there, A/C or defrost etc needed to dup problem, any idiot lights on, code stored, noise coming from engine, CVT, front or back, fluid levels okay ?
First welcome to the Forum..
For Toyota to claim AT-PZEV in CA, they have to warranty the emissions for 15 years or 150k miles. This is a good case to find out how well that law is enforced. Without the catalytic convertor there is no clean emissions. The car will not pass inspection. I would give the Toyota dealer a chance to fix the problem under warranty. If they refuse, go to CARB that set the standards. Toyota is using this car to get away with horrible pollution on their big dollar cars. They need to be held accountable. Hope to hear more on this case... Good Luck
http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/ccvl/2004sulevpzevlist.htm
What dribble!
"many of us have been asking"
who are the many?
You better go buy a Ford, IMO.
or better yet, a Chrysler product.
What dribble!
"many of us have been asking"
who are the many?
Would you like me to name the posters that have questioned the reliability of the hybrids? I can research that for you. My reference is to this person that has already found that the hybrid is expensive to own after the warranty is gone. Do you you consider these charges fair on a 3 year old vehicle? A $600 sensor & $2100 catalytic convertor. I just replaced the catalytic convertor on our 1990 Mazda 626, along with the muffler and tail pipe, and the total was $154 with a lifetime warranty. We have spent less than $2100 on that Mazda over 15 years including brakes, batteries & tires. I'll tell you what I tell all the leading edge hybrid explorers "Good Luck" your going to need it.
PS
I never even thought of asking Mazda to replace our convertor. We only have 84k miles on our 1990. It has been very reliable. We use it to run errands and as a loaner to friends and relatives that come to town.
I hope this helps, if you need any more info, just ask.
The cost to fix it was about the same as yours. My dealer is only 2 blocks away, and it was only afterwards that i realized I could have rolled it into the dealership myself, given that the car is so light.
- Replacement of navigation system
- Work on dashboard to stop noises coming from center speaker
- Additional noises coming from dashboard that dealer cannot find or fix
- Vibrations coming from hatchback that makes car sound like an old pickup truck going over bumps
- Check engine light coming on for no reason
- Left rear seat having to be locked in place every once in a while to keep noises from occurring
- Outside thermometer has a wide margin of error
- I think the driver side mirror warped the first time I took it to a car wash
Nothing major unfortunately. I'm hoping for the transmission to fall out so I can press a "lemon law" case.
Has anyone else had these problems? I bought Option Package #9 which is $26K MSRP. I find the fit and finish of this car at that price to be terrible. I never had those issues with my old Prius. Would love to hear others' experience.
Volvo ABS sensor $650
1990 Cutlas cierra A/C compressor $900
1990 Cutlass cierra alternator $450
Prius parts are all made and imported from Japan..
Good luck to all of us...