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GMC 4X4 auto-trac or shift on the floor ????
I have a gmc 4x4 on order without the autotrac,
I live in the LA area and will use 4x4 in the snow
when I go skiing, hunting, hauling dirtbikes to
the desert . I feel I will use it 2 dozen times a
year. My questions are at what speed can you throw
them into gear and how dependable is the
autotrac. I don't what to be up in the snow and a
cable or switch freezing up. I found a dealer that
will have a 4x4 coming in with autotrac. What do I
do, what do I do
I live in the LA area and will use 4x4 in the snow
when I go skiing, hunting, hauling dirtbikes to
the desert . I feel I will use it 2 dozen times a
year. My questions are at what speed can you throw
them into gear and how dependable is the
autotrac. I don't what to be up in the snow and a
cable or switch freezing up. I found a dealer that
will have a 4x4 coming in with autotrac. What do I
do, what do I do
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
it easier to use and it probably puts it in 4-wheel faster, but im not sure about that one
I have it on my Z-71 and it works wonders
Ryan
I like the extra console space...and the push and forget about it. Although I do find myself switching back and forth between 2hi and auto for some reason....(can't teach an old dog....)
I used to go as farr as possible in 2 hi until it slid out...then 4hi...to avoid wear and tear on the risk of dry pavement.
Last night was a white out type blizzard night...not much on the gorund...just blowing and some wetness here and there. I put it in Autotrac...and when I felt it was cool....I dropped into 2hi again.
It's not totally select and forget...I figure something has got to be engaged when it's in Auto...and when bone dry...I'd imagine it's doing some harm in Auto mode?...It shifts so fast you never even know it happens...very quiet also. Only time I knew it happens is when pulling out onto the main raod under hard acceleration...you feel the rear spin about 1 rev...and then it goes.
If Auto senses it getting used alot...it will shift into 4HI automatically.
it's good for people who just don't know when to use it as well. Some idiots see some snow and are long out of it...but still in 4HI on dry pavement....even while turning corners....ever heard a transfer case scream?
So yeah...Auto is great...but I still shift out when I FEEL it should be off.
Good Luck
- Tim
When you turn a corner...you get that tight feel...like when in 4-hi.....so SOMETHING is engaged?
Someone said the hubs are locked and it switches the transfer case on and off??....I'm not sure I buy that....
It can't go from 2 hi to 4hi.....it just happens too quick.....something is already partially on?
Oh well
back to work..
- Tim
Ryan
I think it's great....I just wanna know what is happening underneith?
It does it's job....better in a way than 4-hi...but I kinda like full time 4-hi as well in some ways?
This is nuts
Later man
- Tim
in 4HI its a standard 4x4 system; not AWD. In Auto mode the transfer case uses a solenoid to engage a clutch that engages the front to the power. This happens after a rear-slip is detected. After some period and I don't know how long it holds it in 4HI, the transfer case disengages automatically.
So when in Auto mode its like driving around an old 4x4 in 2HI with the hubs engaged. Except if you get any lost traction it instantly engages 4Hi. This is one of the most impressive things about the Silverado in my opinion. Of all the people I have talked to this seems like one of the most solidly designed systems on the truck.
I would not have one without it.
-Jim
It's partially engaged..
If the hubs are locked...but no transfer case....is that really 2hi??
- Tim
As many of you have posted previously, the Auto-trac is very beneficial in rain, snow, etc. I don't doubt that, nor do I argue the points that all of you have made. But, I'm in the frame of mind that, "The more 'stuff' you have on a vehicle, the more 'stuff' there is to potentially break down!" Granted, everyone I've talked to about the electronic "push button" transfer cases have had nothing but good to say about them. But electronic solenoids can and do go out.
Here's something else to think about. I know from past experiences, that SOME PEOPLE tend to get a false sense of security while driving in inclement weather, due completely to the notion that "...I have four wheel drive; Who cares if its raining!" I commute 80 miles rt to work every day, and witness too many "in-duh-viduals" who think in this frame of mind!"
Now, before everybody jumps on my case about this, let me say that YES, in certain situations, 4wd is very beneficial. But, more important that this is the frame of mind/intelligence level of the person behind the wheel.
I just feel better with the floor lever. That way, I know when I'm in 4wd, when I'm not, and so on. No, it isn't as convienent as Auto-trac. But it sure is reassuring to feel the "thunk" of the transfer case engaging! (it is to me, anyway!)
Sorry for such a long post!
keith24
But I wanted an upscale truck...and well...they only come with the dash system..
So be it.
I have never heard of a sensor/solenoid going out....not to say it can't....just it's very rare.
If I was a serious off roader...or always in the mountains...or in full time construction...maybe I'd have a floor shift....course I wouldn't have an upscale truck for those applications...
So it all works out..
I could care less about the thunk....as long as it goes where I want it to...I really don't care what is happening underneith..
- Tim
Uusually this old dog don't learn new tricks...
....But every once in a while something like Autotrac sticks!
Woof Woof!!
- Tim
Glenn (in Colorado)
I wasn't to keen on the autotrac idea. Kind of liked that lever on the floor. Unfortunately, (at least I thought at first) the LS I bought had it. I have to say, I don't think I will ever go back to the lever.
However, the shift on the floor still relies on the axle solenoid to engage the front diff to the front axles. Its a question of how many solenoids do you want. The shift on the floor only engages the front driveshaft. The button does the same via solenoid.
My point, Im buying the C/K crew cab, so the push button does not have neutral like insta-trac or the lever. If you want to tow, you need neutral. I dont plan on being towed though. I just prefer manual, lever to transfercase, shifting.
A piece of advice, crawl under your truck and locate the solenoid wires. Take some electrical tye wraps and get those wires as high as you can. Ive seen too many people complain their 4wd doesnt work and theyve driven through the brush and pulled the wires loose. Weel my 2cents worth.
- Chevey diesel - 26 mpg - doesn't know about engine life - get manual tran - manual hubs
- Ford diesel - 20 mpg - 150K engine life - manual trans - auto trans can't take torque
- Dodge diesel 26mpg - 1 million miles engine life ....
He says the New cheveys will have the Izusu diesels and they are great.
Buy your truck at Dave Smith in Kellogg Idaho, is what they do in Oregon.
I am crawling under the truck and turning the driveshaft buy hand. I have read the postings and clearly almost everyone likes the auto trac.
If the hubs are always locked, should I worry about the wear and tear on the front driveline and does it effect fuel mileage? Thanks.
i have a '99 Z-71 and when in auto 4X if you turn the wheel you can feel that the hubs are locked
Who cares how it works...It works great for me.
- Tim
http://www.beerlights.com/
...actually more of a friends that I also help manage...
I don't have my truck on Dave40's yet....as i am too lazy to get some good pics with all the goodies on..
I also have personal web space with pictures of my 2500....I can post those once more if everyone can stand to look once more??
Day One:
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/2000LT1.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/2000LT2.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/2000LT3.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/2000LT4.jpg
My Favorite:
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/LT1.jpg
Bug Guard I tossed on:
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Bug1.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Bug2.jpg
The Skins and rails I added:
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Rail1.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Rail2.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Rail3.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Hitch.jpg
And I have these Boards..front and rear..but don't have a good picture yet...this is from the company that sells them...
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Pipelinenew.jpg
I like those a lot....
This was the old style...but I didn't get them in time...
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Pipelineold1.jpg
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/Pipelineold2.jpg
..well...that should keep you busy!!
- Tim
Any problems?
What is your fuel milage?
Is there anything I should look out for or anything I should or should not order?
Thanks, Sean
I have the 4:10's and go about 50 in the city...75 avg. on the highway and i get about 12.5-13 MPG..
The 6.0 is not for Mileage...but it's oh so nice for Highway power and just plain rides better as a 2500.
What to look out for??
Expect a rough idle..it's a character of this engine. Keep the tires at a lower pressure in the rear for a better ride...but be carefull not to go too low or you will ruin the sidewalls.
I think you should order the Firm Ride/4:10's(this tranny has a much lower 1st/2nd gear ratio and can seem sluggish off the line with normal pedal push at times),and order skidplates.
I didn't get a locker..(this is a long debate that can be found elsewhere here)...but it won't hurt to have one. The extra weight of this truck with the better on/off road tread tires seems to give very good tire to road contact when taking off without a locker or 4WD. Sometimes when you really hammer it while wet it slips the tires....but oh well....just about every truck will do that at some point.
The trailering package also gives you a tranny and oil cooler as well as a trans temp guage.
What you should or should not order is up to you...and your needs..
Good Luck
- Tim
I just read the article in Four Wheeler about the new 2500HD and 3500 trucks. I am also tempted to wait until the new 6.0 comes out, I read it has aluminum heads and a new camshaft to give it 325hp and 370 lb-ft of torque. Maybe opt for a crew cab shortbed, maybe that will help the ride some.
Does the 6.0 really need more power? But I guess more is always better. At least that's what she said.
Does anyone know where I can find more info on these '01 trucks. Thanks for the input, I appreciate the information.
Sean
The trailer package doesn't give you different shocks.(unless they changed it)..I have the firm ride 2500 and it rides better than any half out there. Is it a cadillac?...NO...but damn nice for a truck.
Do you need 325HP over 300?...probably not...but yes..it doesn't hurt. If you get a 99/00....I doubt you will ever say.."I need that extra 25HP!"..
- Good Luck'
- Tim
Let's not let our wifes get together and compare notes because I believe they'll want to hang us if we talk about a truck anymore!!
I too have been waiting for years. I was amazed when they came out in a 3 door!!
Now I need to decide if I should cancel my order and wait for the 325hp.
Z82 is the hitch and coolers as well as the temp guage
Who cares what the wives think??....all my research make the wife happy I got a 3/4....cuz she likes the ride better too than a 1/2!
- Tim
LOL
It's nice to have a 4-HI effect automatically there waiting...but not to be in the 4-HI grinding mode on pavement. I still am hesitant to use it on long stretches of pavement even in severe rain....as i guess this old dog still thinks of 4WD and concrete as a no no ...
I also preached the stick instead of dash buttons...but when forced to get it that way in my 2500 LT....it's no biggee now...I like the extra console space...
Things change eh?
- Tim
New here, so I'll get right to the point.
I've got a '00 GMC Sierra Z71 with the 5.3.
Has anybody been having trouble with the Auto-trac 4x4 not disengaging the front end when shifting back into 2Hi?
I'm not sure if I'm having that problem or not. Even though the indicator light is lit up for 2Hi, I'm experiencing tire scrub when making turns, as well as feeling like it's still in 4x4. In a earlier post somebody commented on not being able to turn the front drive-shaft by hand when in 2Hi, same here. Does that indicate that something is still engaged (either in the transfer case or front end)?
I thought that if something was wrong with the 4x4 (or anything, for that matter), the system monitor thingy is suppose to let you know.
Something else I would like to know: does "4x4 and concrete don't mix" still apply when using 4x4 (not Auto) eventhough there's a diff in the transfer case?
As you probably can tell, I'm not real knowledgable about 4x4 and the Book is kinda skimpy on info.
Thanks,
Mitch
I remember in the old floor mount days that sometimes it would take a while...like 10-20 seconds to fully dis-engage?...but it seems to be quick with the new system.
how long are we talking when you still feel grind?
- Tim
I work in construction and the house that I'm working on is at the top of a mountain with a 2 mile gravel drive (up, up, then up some more) with several switch-backs.
To keep from wearing the Auto-trac out, I go ahead and punch in 4Hi going up. No problem.
Coming down I would set it in 4Lo and use the engine to brake my speed down(to save brakes)
except for a section that is concreted (steepest part,with a couple switch-backs). Don't know if going down the concreted part in 4Lo is good for the four-wheel drive or not, so there I would switch into Auto(would also use Auto going up here), transmission in 1st and brake some letting the rear skid to lock in front diff. This is where my question about 4x4 and concrete not mixing. Would like some input on how to best handle the concreted section.
Back to my story. At the bottom of the hill I would stop and select 2Hi and the light would switch to 2Hi easy enough. When starting up, the tranny/front end would pop.
It would seem like once I get back on the main road, the truck would require more power to go(like it would if it was still in 4-wheel drive).
One time after getting to town and waiting on a stop-light(after several miles), taking off at the green there was a pop/klank(hard to put sound in text) from the front right, like maybe the front right hub finally released. Also turning into my gravel drive way(left turn) it would seem like the front right tire would scrub thru the turn. There's also several other times that there seems to be tire scrub in town.
Any comments?
If anybody has any pointers for me, I would really like to hear them.
Much Thanks,
Mitch
Mitch
As for concrete section....
Auto seems better than 4-HI on concrete..(and I don't think you will wear autotrac out)....but 4-LO is a never....for me at least...Never on concrete...it's just a stomach turner for me to think about it!
4-LO on concrete will eat a transfer case for lunch real quick..LOL
Any concrete in any 4WD mode is bad. The "least worst" situation would be to go as straight as possible...it's the turns that kill it....the tires don't turn the same. When in 2 hi and you take a turn...some tires are going slow..others faster...in 4WD...they don't wanna give..and if on dirt...the tire would dig/slide on the dirt...no biggee....on concrete..it tries to skid...but also sends a lot of bad pressure back to the transfer case..
Using 4-LO for brakes is good....but not on concrete.
Someone I'm sure has positive stories of doing it...but usually the rule is...4-HI pavement if must.....4-LO pavement...a No no
Good luck
- Tim
- Tim
I pulled some bushes out and used Auto at first...figuring it would be the best choice to save the lawn...due to if a wheel slipped..it would not send power there and save the spot and put it to a better position?....right?
well....It seemed I was making more of a mess than I wanted to...so I said 4-HI....worked like a charm with almost none for slippage...
So keep trying combos...but stay outa 4-LO on concrete...or at least don't turn!
- Tim
Ryan
- Tim
About the pop/klunk at the traffic light, it only happened that one time. I think it might of been the brakes letting go. And as far as tire scrub in 4Hi, the turns in which it is noticable are hard turns; wheels turned all the way over so it could be alignment.
Incidently, the driveway in question, even though it has its challenges, it's fun, especially after a rain (washouts and slicky mud).
Thanks for ya'lls reply,
Mitch