Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

GMC 4X4 auto-trac or shift on the floor ????

obiggsobiggs Member Posts: 33
edited May 2014 in GMC
I have a gmc 4x4 on order without the autotrac,
I live in the LA area and will use 4x4 in the snow
when I go skiing, hunting, hauling dirtbikes to
the desert . I feel I will use it 2 dozen times a
year. My questions are at what speed can you throw
them into gear and how dependable is the
autotrac. I don't what to be up in the snow and a
cable or switch freezing up. I found a dealer that
will have a 4x4 coming in with autotrac. What do I
do, what do I do


  • leathal02leathal02 Member Posts: 114

    it easier to use and it probably puts it in 4-wheel faster, but im not sure about that one

    I have it on my Z-71 and it works wonders
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    is a nice feature. When the road is wet or part ice part dry I do not like keeping it in 4 Hi, with autotrac you push a button and forget about it. When it engages it is so fast and smooth you can not even tell. I think it has already paid for itself by preventing an accident. It was raining cats and dogs last week and I had it in autotrac. I stopped at a 4 way stop sign and when it was my turn started to pull out, another driver did not see the stop sign and came flying through, I stomped the gas and he missed me by inches, if I would have had it in 2WD I know I would have just spun the rear wheels and crash. No way could I have reached over and pulled a lever or pushed a button to engage 4x4 in time to make any difference. Even if you never go off road the 4x4 with autotrac is the way to go.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Press a button or reach down to pull a lever hmmm thats a hard one. Go with the autotrac. Its a very nice option just put the button in auto and never worry about slipping it automatically kicks in. For the auto it doesnt matter what speed your in. For 4LO i think u have to be going real slow its in the owners manual find someone with one and read it it has a page or so about this option. Like Bill said it will help you no doubt on roads that are rainy hit the 4wd auto button and you never spin your wheels well i havent yet.

  • mdw1000mdw1000 Member Posts: 171
    I think you can go to auto4wd or 4hi at any speed (have done 2wd to autotrak on the tollway with no problem). 4low you have to be going under a few miles an hour with the tranny in neutral.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    preached a lever that went directly into the floor....until now.

    I like the extra console space...and the push and forget about it. Although I do find myself switching back and forth between 2hi and auto for some reason....(can't teach an old dog....)

    I used to go as farr as possible in 2 hi until it slid out...then 4hi...to avoid wear and tear on the risk of dry pavement.

    Last night was a white out type blizzard night...not much on the gorund...just blowing and some wetness here and there. I put it in Autotrac...and when I felt it was cool....I dropped into 2hi again.
    It's not totally select and forget...I figure something has got to be engaged when it's in Auto...and when bone dry...I'd imagine it's doing some harm in Auto mode?...It shifts so fast you never even know it happens...very quiet also. Only time I knew it happens is when pulling out onto the main raod under hard acceleration...you feel the rear spin about 1 rev...and then it goes.

    If Auto senses it getting used alot...it will shift into 4HI automatically.

    it's good for people who just don't know when to use it as well. Some idiots see some snow and are long out of it...but still in 4HI on dry pavement....even while turning corners....ever heard a transfer case scream?

    So yeah...Auto is great...but I still shift out when I FEEL it should be off.

    Good Luck

    - Tim
  • z71z71 Member Posts: 67
    that all the auto trac is is just the transfer case sensing when it needs to be in "4-Hi" by measuring wheel slippage and engaging and disengaging it appropriately. It is not really a "full-time 4x4" system. As mgdvhman said, he felt it slip a little before the 4x4 kicked in. A true full-time 4x4 wouldn't have the back wheels slip any before the fronts kicked in because there would always be some power distribution to the front. Correct?
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    is another white out type day...and Auto-trac is getting another test.

    When you turn a corner...you get that tight feel...like when in 4-hi.....so SOMETHING is engaged?
    Someone said the hubs are locked and it switches the transfer case on and off??....I'm not sure I buy that....
    It can't go from 2 hi to 4hi.....it just happens too quick.....something is already partially on?

    Oh well

    back to work..

    - Tim
  • obiggsobiggs Member Posts: 33
    I think I'll get the one W/O the autotrac,it should get here first. Has anyone had problems with the autotrac 1999/2000 model. Thanks Pat
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Trouble here with it on a 2000 blazer. It works like a charm. I hope u dont regret not getting it.

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    You misunderstood us?

    I think it's great....I just wanna know what is happening underneith?

    It does it's job....better in a way than 4-hi...but I kinda like full time 4-hi as well in some ways?

    This is nuts

    Later man

    - Tim
  • mckainmckain Member Posts: 20
    If you read the '99 owners manual careful (its only mentioned in one paragraph). Is says that with Autotrack on the hubs are always engaged, in 2hi the hubs are out. I too switch to 2HI for most driving unless its rain or snow...

    in 4HI its a standard 4x4 system; not AWD. In Auto mode the transfer case uses a solenoid to engage a clutch that engages the front to the power. This happens after a rear-slip is detected. After some period and I don't know how long it holds it in 4HI, the transfer case disengages automatically.

    So when in Auto mode its like driving around an old 4x4 in 2HI with the hubs engaged. Except if you get any lost traction it instantly engages 4Hi. This is one of the most impressive things about the Silverado in my opinion. Of all the people I have talked to this seems like one of the most solidly designed systems on the truck.

    I would not have one without it.

  • z71z71 Member Posts: 67
    it is in 2-hi basically until the rear detects slip then it basically in 4-hi. The grabbing that mgdvhman feels is probably the system trying to compensate for that little bit of slip that one of the rear wheels have in a turn. The only thing is that 88-up GM trucks (except the 88-91 blazers, surburbans, and 2500hd and 3500hd trucks)do not have the typical hubs that engage and disengage. Ever notice that we don't have the hubs sticking out of the front wheels? This "hub" style is similar to the Jeep (YJ and TJ)Wranglers and Cherokees.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    can't go from 2hi to 4hi that fast.

    It's partially engaged..

    If the hubs are locked...but no transfer case....is that really 2hi??

    - Tim
  • z71z71 Member Posts: 67
    You can't look at it like that. You can't say its not fast enough because you can't see how it can "press the button" or "pull the lever" fast enough. The thing already has the 4x4 primed and ready to go, it just doesn't send power until its needed. The electical connections can do it fast enough. It is just like your brakes, accelerator, or power window motors. Sure, there's a delay, but can you feel it?
  • keith24keith24 Member Posts: 93
    Just a couple of thoughts on the Auto-trac active transfer case.

    As many of you have posted previously, the Auto-trac is very beneficial in rain, snow, etc. I don't doubt that, nor do I argue the points that all of you have made. But, I'm in the frame of mind that, "The more 'stuff' you have on a vehicle, the more 'stuff' there is to potentially break down!" Granted, everyone I've talked to about the electronic "push button" transfer cases have had nothing but good to say about them. But electronic solenoids can and do go out.

    Here's something else to think about. I know from past experiences, that SOME PEOPLE tend to get a false sense of security while driving in inclement weather, due completely to the notion that "...I have four wheel drive; Who cares if its raining!" I commute 80 miles rt to work every day, and witness too many "in-duh-viduals" who think in this frame of mind!"

    Now, before everybody jumps on my case about this, let me say that YES, in certain situations, 4wd is very beneficial. But, more important that this is the frame of mind/intelligence level of the person behind the wheel.

    I just feel better with the floor lever. That way, I know when I'm in 4wd, when I'm not, and so on. No, it isn't as convienent as Auto-trac. But it sure is reassuring to feel the "thunk" of the transfer case engaging! (it is to me, anyway!)

    Sorry for such a long post!

  • mdw1000mdw1000 Member Posts: 171
    says that the front axle is engaged in autotrak mode, but no power is sent to it unless rear wheel slippage is detected.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I preached a lever into the floor too..

    But I wanted an upscale truck...and well...they only come with the dash system..

    So be it.

    I have never heard of a sensor/solenoid going out....not to say it can't....just it's very rare.

    If I was a serious off roader...or always in the mountains...or in full time construction...maybe I'd have a floor shift....course I wouldn't have an upscale truck for those applications...

    So it all works out..

    I could care less about the thunk....as long as it goes where I want it to...I really don't care what is happening underneith..

    - Tim
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I too wanted a floor shift lever, that is what I had for 14 years and thought the push button was for wimps that did not know what they were doing.. I wanted the LT more than I wanted the floor shift so I went with it. I figured maybe my wife would be driving my truck and need to put it in 4x4 and she would be able to handle pushing a button easier than she could figure out the floor shift. Now that I have the autotrac I would never go back. In fact I would not even consider buying another 4x4 that did not have this feature. It is much more that pushing a button to switch into/out of 4x4. Autotrac give you the opportunity to really use the 4x4 feature of your truck. You give up nothing (other than the "thud") and gain real world advantages of a safer truck. I would bet Ford, Dodge and Toyota all copy this feature.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    The old shifter on the floor was sometimes too hard for my short wife to pull back all the way and keep her eyes on the road..

    Uusually this old dog don't learn new tricks...

    ....But every once in a while something like Autotrac sticks!

    Woof Woof!!
    - Tim
  • zr2zr2 Member Posts: 6
    '97 ZR2 Blazer (62,000+, original tires even), use it everyday to get up my driveway. When it snows, I use 4lo (5-sp) to get down with no brakes & no clutch, let the 4.3 do all the slowing. Looking at getting '01 ZR2 as this has been one work-horse, I love it. Of course I'm not selling the '97, justing adding. I want the extra button so I can pull the '01 behind RV. Can't pull the '97 (per the book).

    Glenn (in Colorado)
  • nyalnyal Member Posts: 17
    I agree with you on the frame of mind thing. I've owned trucks all my life and get very frustrated when the snow hits and I have to deal with "Jeep Grand Cherokee" mindset as I like to put. Nothing against Jeeps but I find an awful lot of them in the ditch every winter and can't help think that it's that 4wd mind set.

    I wasn't to keen on the autotrac idea. Kind of liked that lever on the floor. Unfortunately, (at least I thought at first) the LS I bought had it. I have to say, I don't think I will ever go back to the lever.
  • mesquitebeanmesquitebean Member Posts: 15
    Just cruisin by, I like the lever, but I havent used the button. I have seen a ford Broncho stuck in the sand , on the Rio Grande river , miles from any ford dealer. He pushed the the button and nada, zip, zilch, no-worky. Being a mechanic I quickly got my Ohmmeter and began checking it out. The solenoid on the transfercase was no good.

    However, the shift on the floor still relies on the axle solenoid to engage the front diff to the front axles. Its a question of how many solenoids do you want. The shift on the floor only engages the front driveshaft. The button does the same via solenoid.

    My point, Im buying the C/K crew cab, so the push button does not have neutral like insta-trac or the lever. If you want to tow, you need neutral. I dont plan on being towed though. I just prefer manual, lever to transfercase, shifting.

    A piece of advice, crawl under your truck and locate the solenoid wires. Take some electrical tye wraps and get those wires as high as you can. Ive seen too many people complain their 4wd doesnt work and theyve driven through the brush and pulled the wires loose. Weel my 2cents worth.
  • sudsheadsudshead Member Posts: 3
    your truck. My wifes cousin is a lumberjack and has told me the following:

    - Chevey diesel - 26 mpg - doesn't know about engine life - get manual tran - manual hubs

    - Ford diesel - 20 mpg - 150K engine life - manual trans - auto trans can't take torque

    - Dodge diesel 26mpg - 1 million miles engine life ....

    He says the New cheveys will have the Izusu diesels and they are great.

    Buy your truck at Dave Smith in Kellogg Idaho, is what they do in Oregon.
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    I have a question about auto trac. Do the front hubs really disengage? I test drove both 4x4 systems and found the front driveshaft does NOT turn, while parked, when the truck is in 2hi. That is telling me the front hubs are always locked. With shift on the floor models, the front driveshaft does turn, while parked, in 2hi.
    I am crawling under the truck and turning the driveshaft buy hand. I have read the postings and clearly almost everyone likes the auto trac.
    If the hubs are always locked, should I worry about the wear and tear on the front driveline and does it effect fuel mileage? Thanks.
  • leathal02leathal02 Member Posts: 114
    that with the auto trac.. the hubs are NOT locked all the time...when in "auto" the hubs lock only until there is wheel slippage then 4 wheel is engaged..

    i have a '99 Z-71 and when in auto 4X if you turn the wheel you can feel that the hubs are locked
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    are no "hubs" so to speak anymore??

    Who cares how it works...It works great for me.

    - Tim
  • z71z71 Member Posts: 67
    none of these trucks have hubs in the conventional sense. If you don't believe me just take one of the front tires off...there is nothing sticking out between the studs like there is on 4x4's with "real" hubs.
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    Does anyone know if the 88-98 GM trucks could be converted to manual locking hubs? I assume it would be too early for such a kit to be available for the new Silverados, but I seem to recall seeing some sort of conversion kit somewhere for the older trucks? But I might just be crazy? If you could convert to manual hubs I could see the logic behind getting the floor shift so that you have eliminated both solenoids in the system. But if you are stuck with the automatic hubs and one solenoid even with the floor shifter, you might as well add Autotrac to get the auto 4wd mode. Still, I never have heard of the solenoids going bad, although I'm sure plenty of people have had that happen. My friend did have the dash switch go on him though, but that was in a Ford, so he had it coming. Tim, could you post the place to look at the pictures of your truck again, for some reason when I go to your site to look at the other peoples' pictures you've posted, I can't move around and find yours. I want to see that beast with my own eyes. Thanks.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    You sure you are not thinking about Dave40's Truck Force? He has seveal pictures there on a site. I have a Beer related sight:
    ...actually more of a friends that I also help manage...
    I don't have my truck on Dave40's yet....as i am too lazy to get some good pics with all the goodies on..
    I also have personal web space with pictures of my 2500....I can post those once more if everyone can stand to look once more??

    Day One:


    My Favorite:


    Bug Guard I tossed on:


    The Skins and rails I added:


    And I have these Boards..front and rear..but don't have a good picture yet...this is from the company that sells them...


    I like those a lot....

    This was the old style...but I didn't get them in time...


    ..well...that should keep you busy!!

    - Tim
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    Nice truck. I just ordered a 2500 4x4, extended, shortbed. How many miles do you have on it?
    Any problems?
    What is your fuel milage?
    Is there anything I should look out for or anything I should or should not order?
    Thanks, Sean
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Had it about 6.5 Months....got about 11,600 miles..and no problems other than a cosmetic flaw that was fixed soon after.

    I have the 4:10's and go about 50 in the city...75 avg. on the highway and i get about 12.5-13 MPG..
    The 6.0 is not for Mileage...but it's oh so nice for Highway power and just plain rides better as a 2500.

    What to look out for??

    Expect a rough idle..it's a character of this engine. Keep the tires at a lower pressure in the rear for a better ride...but be carefull not to go too low or you will ruin the sidewalls.

    I think you should order the Firm Ride/4:10's(this tranny has a much lower 1st/2nd gear ratio and can seem sluggish off the line with normal pedal push at times),and order skidplates.

    I didn't get a locker..(this is a long debate that can be found elsewhere here)...but it won't hurt to have one. The extra weight of this truck with the better on/off road tread tires seems to give very good tire to road contact when taking off without a locker or 4WD. Sometimes when you really hammer it while wet it slips the tires....but oh well....just about every truck will do that at some point.

    The trailering package also gives you a tranny and oil cooler as well as a trans temp guage.

    What you should or should not order is up to you...and your needs..

    Good Luck

    - Tim
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    Very sweet ride Tim! I hope to order one just like it this fall. I figure since i've waited this long I might as well see if the higher output 6.0 is offered in the regular duty 2500 in the fall. Thanks for the post.
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    I was going to order the trailering package with bigger shocks and was wondering about the ride. Thanks.
    I just read the article in Four Wheeler about the new 2500HD and 3500 trucks. I am also tempted to wait until the new 6.0 comes out, I read it has aluminum heads and a new camshaft to give it 325hp and 370 lb-ft of torque. Maybe opt for a crew cab shortbed, maybe that will help the ride some.
    Does the 6.0 really need more power? But I guess more is always better. At least that's what she said.
    Does anyone know where I can find more info on these '01 trucks. Thanks for the input, I appreciate the information.
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    Tim can tell you better than I can about all that stuff, as he has this truck, and I am still sitting on my hands drooling. Mark has a good point about the durability of the current cast iron heads though too. From my test drives of the 6.0 4x4 Ext. cab, this engine is incredible as is, and needs nothing more, except maybe better gas mileage, but who cares about that in a 3/4 ton truck. My opinion though is to just wait and see about the updated 6.0, as I have waited this long anyway. Its funny, before the Silverado even came out, one of the magazines ran an article on them and said the 6.0 had cast iron heads, but would get aluminum like the others in about two years. I remember thinking that it would probably mean a power increase too and how disappointed I would be when mine just had the cast iron first edition engine. I never dreamed I would wait this long! Just trying to be a responsible person and funnel as much money into retirement accounts as possible while I'm still a youngster. I tell you though, it has been a hard long wait so far, and my wife is tired of putting up with my complaining about it, so this fall I'll either order a 2001 or buy a 2000 off a lot, depending on the new features, etc.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Yeah cast heads are better for the long run...but I doubt they will hold off for the few of us that want them over aluminum.

    The trailer package doesn't give you different shocks.(unless they changed it)..I have the firm ride 2500 and it rides better than any half out there. Is it a cadillac?...NO...but damn nice for a truck.

    Do you need 325HP over 300?...probably not...but yes..it doesn't hurt. If you get a 99/00....I doubt you will ever say.."I need that extra 25HP!"..

    - Good Luck'

    - Tim
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    I ordered a truck one week ago and added the Z85 handling/trailering suspension package. On the price sheet of msn/carpoint, Chevy listed it as 36mm shocks. So I am assuming it is just bigger shocks for $88. The Z82 is the trailering equipment package.
    Let's not let our wifes get together and compare notes because I believe they'll want to hang us if we talk about a truck anymore!!
    I too have been waiting for years. I was amazed when they came out in a 3 door!!
    Now I need to decide if I should cancel my order and wait for the 325hp.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Z85 is the shocks....

    Z82 is the hitch and coolers as well as the temp guage

    Who cares what the wives think??....all my research make the wife happy I got a 3/4....cuz she likes the ride better too than a 1/2!

    - Tim
  • z71offroadz71offroad Member Posts: 14
    There are no locking hubs for these trucks they have a CAD(central axle disconnect), look at your front differential you will see a connector. The left side is always connected and when 4 wd is engaged the other side is locked up
  • danjandanjan Member Posts: 15
    on the stick that used to sit in the middle of my floorboard is the one thing I miss. However, it sure is nice to have the extra floor space. Auto-trac is great. I just returned from a 4500 mile trip with my 1999 HD 3/4 ton 6.0 4X4 Silverado pulling a 8600 lb. Travel Trailer. The last 4 days of our trip we drove in rain and I can say from experience, I was sure glad I had Auto-trac while towing through Oklahoma City which is one huge construction zone. One really has peace of mind while driving in wet weather while using Auto-trac. I'll never be without it again. My 6.0 performed like a well oiled machine. It never missed a beat. I passed every Ford and Dodge on the road with ease. You always expect and get the best from a Chevy! My mileage ranged from 8.1 bucking a 45 mph headwind to 10.7 going down a hill with my clutch in (kidding). Overall mileage for the trip while towing and driving solo was 11.3...not bad! 2300 miles of the trip were towing miles.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    thought of Auto trac as a yuppie option....after having it....either I was wrong...or I'm a yuppy!

    It's nice to have a 4-HI effect automatically there waiting...but not to be in the 4-HI grinding mode on pavement. I still am hesitant to use it on long stretches of pavement even in severe rain....as i guess this old dog still thinks of 4WD and concrete as a no no ...

    I also preached the stick instead of dash buttons...but when forced to get it that way in my 2500 LT....it's no biggee now...I like the extra console space...

    Things change eh?

    - Tim
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    Hi Everybody,
    New here, so I'll get right to the point.
    I've got a '00 GMC Sierra Z71 with the 5.3.
    Has anybody been having trouble with the Auto-trac 4x4 not disengaging the front end when shifting back into 2Hi?
    I'm not sure if I'm having that problem or not. Even though the indicator light is lit up for 2Hi, I'm experiencing tire scrub when making turns, as well as feeling like it's still in 4x4. In a earlier post somebody commented on not being able to turn the front drive-shaft by hand when in 2Hi, same here. Does that indicate that something is still engaged (either in the transfer case or front end)?
    I thought that if something was wrong with the 4x4 (or anything, for that matter), the system monitor thingy is suppose to let you know.
    Something else I would like to know: does "4x4 and concrete don't mix" still apply when using 4x4 (not Auto) eventhough there's a diff in the transfer case?
    As you probably can tell, I'm not real knowledgable about 4x4 and the Book is kinda skimpy on info.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    I know that after you switch it from auto to 2 Hi...letting off the throttle for a second or two will help it dis-engage quicker.

    I remember in the old floor mount days that sometimes it would take a while...like 10-20 seconds to fully dis-engage?...but it seems to be quick with the new system.

    how long are we talking when you still feel grind?

    - Tim
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    What happens is this.
    I work in construction and the house that I'm working on is at the top of a mountain with a 2 mile gravel drive (up, up, then up some more) with several switch-backs.
    To keep from wearing the Auto-trac out, I go ahead and punch in 4Hi going up. No problem.
    Coming down I would set it in 4Lo and use the engine to brake my speed down(to save brakes)
    except for a section that is concreted (steepest part,with a couple switch-backs). Don't know if going down the concreted part in 4Lo is good for the four-wheel drive or not, so there I would switch into Auto(would also use Auto going up here), transmission in 1st and brake some letting the rear skid to lock in front diff. This is where my question about 4x4 and concrete not mixing. Would like some input on how to best handle the concreted section.
    Back to my story. At the bottom of the hill I would stop and select 2Hi and the light would switch to 2Hi easy enough. When starting up, the tranny/front end would pop.
    It would seem like once I get back on the main road, the truck would require more power to go(like it would if it was still in 4-wheel drive).
    One time after getting to town and waiting on a stop-light(after several miles), taking off at the green there was a pop/klank(hard to put sound in text) from the front right, like maybe the front right hub finally released. Also turning into my gravel drive way(left turn) it would seem like the front right tire would scrub thru the turn. There's also several other times that there seems to be tire scrub in town.

    Any comments?

    If anybody has any pointers for me, I would really like to hear them.
    Much Thanks,
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    Come to think of it, it would seem that the scrubs, noises, and whatnots are usally from the front right.

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    The pop/grind in the right tire don't sound right.....should be dis-engaged by then?....maybe there is a problem?

    As for concrete section....

    Auto seems better than 4-HI on concrete..(and I don't think you will wear autotrac out)....but 4-LO is a never....for me at least...Never on concrete...it's just a stomach turner for me to think about it!

    4-LO on concrete will eat a transfer case for lunch real quick..LOL

    Any concrete in any 4WD mode is bad. The "least worst" situation would be to go as straight as possible...it's the turns that kill it....the tires don't turn the same. When in 2 hi and you take a turn...some tires are going slow..others faster...in 4WD...they don't wanna give..and if on dirt...the tire would dig/slide on the dirt...no biggee....on concrete..it tries to skid...but also sends a lot of bad pressure back to the transfer case..

    Using 4-LO for brakes is good....but not on concrete.
    Someone I'm sure has positive stories of doing it...but usually the rule is...4-HI pavement if must.....4-LO pavement...a No no

    Good luck

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    the scrub noises on the right are the tire hitting the plastic wheel well insert when it's turned?.....is the insert loose?

    - Tim
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Autotrac all the time may be the best bet??.....it is supposed to do all the thinking for you?

    I pulled some bushes out and used Auto at first...figuring it would be the best choice to save the lawn...due to if a wheel slipped..it would not send power there and save the spot and put it to a better position?....right?

    well....It seemed I was making more of a mess than I wanted to...so I said 4-HI....worked like a charm with almost none for slippage...

    So keep trying combos...but stay outa 4-LO on concrete...or at least don't turn!

    - Tim
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Is only for deep mudd and sand and maybe snow (blizzard). Not on dry concrete. Auto is the best bet it wont ruin your 4 wheel drive it says to use it on rain slicken roads to drive in auto 4 wheel.

  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Ryan....I have an echo now....

    - Tim
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    So, basically, what I've been doing; 4Lo down to concrete then into Auto, 1st gear, is about the best way to go down. And up, Auto is the selection to use.

    About the pop/klunk at the traffic light, it only happened that one time. I think it might of been the brakes letting go. And as far as tire scrub in 4Hi, the turns in which it is noticable are hard turns; wheels turned all the way over so it could be alignment.

    Incidently, the driveway in question, even though it has its challenges, it's fun, especially after a rain (washouts and slicky mud).

    Thanks for ya'lls reply,
This discussion has been closed.