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I want to thank the previous posters who described the real cause of the dead battery issue. I have been "victimized" on several occasions by using the remote trunk release at my local airport only to find a dead battery when I returned days later. The bottom line is that you should refrain from using the trunk release after the engine is shut off or you will have the same problem if the car is left alone for an extended period of time. What really upsets me here is that Acura knows that this problem exists and has done nothing to alert all the RL owners that they have this exposure until a "fix" is identified. This is POOR customer service especially for a "flagship" market entry.
I had this happen once after recall. Fortunately has not happened again, but dreading it happening in the summer. I know dealer won't do anything unless they can recreate.
hey, ive been having a problem with my 99 tl, because the front left headlight seems to constantly go out when i go over speed bumps, railroad tracks, etc. has anyone else had this problem?.. after the headlight goes out, i flip my lights off, flip them back on, and the front left light comes back on. I've had it into the dealer on 3 occasions, and each time they have tried replacing parts, but I still have the same problem. if anyone has a solution to this problem, or really any advice at all, i would appreciate it.
Well, that does seem like a plausible reason for the chime. I doubt many people will walk away leaving the door wide open, but it is conceivable that some people may not shut the door tight, and therefore not activating the auto shutoff timer.
Well, that does seem like a plausible reason for the chime.
I thought the whole purpose of an automatic shutoff of headlights is that you don't have to remember to shut them off. They work as intended on the RL; however, you still get a warning chime just like on any cheap car that doesn't have auto shutoff. I agree with steve95008 that this doesn't make sense and it is one of the few annoyances I have with my RL. Having it chime all the time, just for those few people who don't get their door closed tight, doesn't make sense either.
But do the doors have to be shut before the auto shutoff activates? I don't know, because I don't own an RL. But I'm just saying that if it is true, then I can see why they put the chime feature in.
But do the doors have to be shut before the auto shutoff activates? I don't know, because I don't own an RL. But I'm just saying that if it is true, then I can see why they put the chime feature in.
I didn't know, so I just checked it out. Yes, the doors have to be completely shut before the auto shutoff activates. I still don't like the warning chime, but I guess it's possible that's why they did it.
Aww, come on. Doesn't this sound more like a rationalization than a design choice? Of course they screwed this one up! They just don't want to admit it.
Aww, come on. Doesn't this sound more like a rationalization than a design choice? Of course they screwed this one up! They just don't want to admit it.
I would tend to agree. Especially since you can barely hear the chime once you close the door, but it's still ajar. I can't imagine it would truly save anyone from running down their battery.
...I just checked it out. Yes, the doors have to be completely shut before the auto shutoff activates.
Wow. You really have to wonder what the rush was with Acura to put this car on the market. Was it that they wanted to be the first in the segment to get something new out? Could be. The first to market usually tends to be the most successful (XM vs. Sirius, as an example). But in this case, it seems that everything that came after the RL is doing better in the market, with the exception of maybe the new A6.
But, anyway, it seems like Honda didn't put too much common sense into a lot of the systems in this car.
But, anyway, it seems like Honda didn't put too much common sense into a lot of the systems in this car.
That's an awfully broad charge. Other than the admittedly annoying warning chime, do you have examples to actually back up your statement?? After driving the RL for eight months, I can think of no other examples.
It's not the chime I was referring to. I was referring to the fact that you have to close the door before the auto timer for the lights will activate. That makes no sense. And the fact that if the thing that looks like a key, feels like a key, and works like a key but isn't a key is off by a nanometer, it will drain your battery. And the fact that if you use the key fob to open the trunk after you lock the car, it will drain the battery (or some screwy thing like that).
It's not the chime I was referring to. I was referring to the fact that you have to close the door before the auto timer for the lights will activate. That makes no sense.
Are you sure that other cars operate differently? I think it likely that many cars' systems can't differentiate between a door that is open and one that is partially open.
And the fact that if the thing that looks like a key, feels like a key, and works like a key but isn't a key is off by a nanometer, it will drain your battery.
I've only heard of a few instances of this happening, including one that I experienced and one that I've never been able to replicate.
And the fact that if you use the key fob to open the trunk after you lock the car, it will drain the battery (or some screwy thing like that).
This is a bug that I'm sure they'll be able to fix.
And then there's the bugs with the systems.
Many newly redisigned models have bugs. Many older models have bugs. It's almost a fact of life with current cars with all their electronic gadgets. I've read enough of these boards to realize that this is not an exclusive Acura problem.
I'm still waiting for something substantive to back up your broad charge of a lack of common sense on the part of Acura in the design of the RL.
That's an awfully broad charge. Other than the admittedly annoying warning chime, do you have examples to actually back up your statement?? After driving the RL for eight months, I can think of no other examples.
Lots of dead batteries, due to the ignition switch design "system" - apparantly one must be trained in how to turn the RL off
Yes, I'm sure other cars operate differently. Every other car I've seen with auto timer headlights (including my own) activates the timer as soon as the car is switched off, not when a door is opened and closed. I think those are plenty of examples that not a lot of common sense went into the design of the RL. Another example would be that they have "lesser" cars in the corporation that are more accomodating than the RL. For instance, the Accord has, what, 103 cubic feet of interior space versus the RL's 99? The rear passenger compartment is cramped and difficult to get in and out of for people over 5'7". The passenger and cargo dimensions are smaller than the outgoing car; which was too small itself. A 4-way power passenger seat? Come on. In a "luxury" car? I'm sure they could've passed on the "mood lighting" in the footwells and made the passenger seat at least 6-way power. I can't imagine anybody would want to be looking at their feet as they're traveling down the highway, especially at night. And didn't I read it in here somewhere that the passenger seat only heats your butt? Come on.
And didn't I read it in here somewhere that the passenger seat only heats your butt? Come on.
Not sure about the RL; but that is true regarding the MDX. The MDX has the SRS passenger sensors in the seatback precluding the placement of heating coils there - or at least that is the corporate line.
Every other car I've seen with auto timer headlights (including my own) activates the timer as soon as the car is switched off, not when a door is opened and closed.
So, if you pull up to your house at night, shut off the car, then don't get out of the car immediately, your car's headlights might go off before you ever get out of the car? I often pull up to my house at night, shut off the car, then proceed to pick up items I want to take into the house. I'd rather the timer not start until I open the door and close it. That sounds like a better design to me.
Yes, my lights will go out if I'm still in the car. But I don't pull up to my house, I pull into my garage. So that's not an issue for me. But if it was an issue, my lights are programmable to stay on for up to a minute and a half. That's more than enough time to get whatever I need and get in the house.
That's just a poor design on Honda's part. What happens if the lights aren't on, but you don't close the door all the way when you walk away from the car? Will the interior lights stay on, too? It's just nuts. Even if I manually turn on my lights and forget to turn them off, the battery rundown feature will shut off everything after 15 minutes. It's supposed to be set it and forget it, not set it and wonder if you set it right or else you'll return to a dead battery. Come on.
Does the RL offer any kind of warning that you didn't close the door all the way when you lock it? I'm sure it does. For me, it's the tone of the horn. If everything is secure when I lock it, I get a short blirp from the horn. If a door or window is ajar, it will let out a loud blast to let me know something is amiss.
Does the RL offer any kind of warning that you didn't close the door all the way when you lock it?
You can't lock the car unless the doors are all closed and the ignition switch is off.
As for your other comments, what if, what if, what if. You can't protect everyone from everything.
I'm very happy with the RL and I own one. You don't like it (which you've made abundantly clear) and don't own one. As far as I'm concerned, that's enough.
Well, my mother-in-law has been known to have on ocassions walk away with her car door wide open! But I suppose if you're that absent-minded, a chime likely won't help you either! :sick:
I think you are bang-on correct here, nebraskaguy. I am certain that's what Honda has in mind. There are many times I would turn off the car, but would spend a few minutes locking stuff away in the glove box and hiding things under the seats, etc., then open the door to exit. It would be a hassle to have to keep adjusting the auto timer.
Enough for this board. I can assure you, that you will never change my mind on the subject with your nitpicking comments, and it's obvious you'll never change yours.
Aside from someone lolly-gagging around in the car when they should be getting out, what happens if you go to a popular overlook or a drive-in restaurant. A normal (and courteous) auto lighting system would turn the lights off after a while. Apparantly with the RL, you'd just be sitting there with your lights glaring in other people's eyes until you manually turn them off.
As far as adjusting the auto timer, you just set it and forget it. You don't have to "keep adjusting" it. It would be more of a hassle fumbling around with a bunch of mess in the car everytime you reach your destination than having to adjust a timer, even if you had to.
C'mon, there's no rule that says you have to jump out of your car the minute you stop! What's this about "should be getting out"? Is there proper protocol for exiting? Within 10 seconds? 30 seconds? 1 minute? Putting stuff away is not "lolly-gagging"
Well, if you want to stay in your car and don't want your lights to shine at other people, simply open and close your door. Simple.
Yes, that would work too. But then you would have to turn it back to "auto" later.
But you've sort of argued against yourself because earlier you said with the Honda system you would end up shining your lights in some else's face if you don't exit your car.
This is a follow-up to messages #100, 194, and 195 regarding brake noise from rattling front brake pads. I faxed Acura customer service and received no reply whatsoever, a disappointment for a $50, 000 car! The front brake pads rattled over bumps causing a noise which sounded like a loose suspension. Tired of waiting for a response, I looked at both front brake pads and found they have a very sloppy fit on the mounting pins. Additionally, the pads have no insulating shim on the back and no silicone backing, just metal to metal contact. I applied silicone brake adhesive to the backs of the front pads and, during re-assembly, put a high temp silicone lube on the mounting pins and brake pad ears. Believe me, this sounds like a new car! The noise over bumps is gone and I am well satisfied with the fix. In my opinion, this is a brake pad design/quality issue that needs to be addressed.
Yes, that would work too. But then you would have to turn it back to "auto" later.
But you've sort of argued against yourself because earlier you said with the Honda system you would end up shining your lights in some else's face if you don't exit your car.
Huh? How so?
I said if you don't manually turn off your lights you'd be shining them in other people's faces. Manually would be flipping the switch or otherwise. A good automatic system would turn them off for you. It seems the best bet with the RL would be to turn them on/off manually all the time.
Or it could just be an age thing. It seems the most active owners here are pretty far on in age, surprisingly. Some of these reported problems could just be that they don't have the full mobility/strength to close the door with enough force or turn the key far enough back. Who knows?
This debate has become so convoluted I can't even begin to try to sort out the logic anymore. But my closing statement would be I think the auto light on the RL would work fine for 95% of the owners because, lets face it, how often do you park and sit in your car in an area where a bunch of other drivers are doing the same thing (unless you like to frequent the local makeout points!)
"Some of these reported problems could just be that they don't have the full mobility/strength to close the door with enough force or turn the key far enough back."
C'mon, I don't think that would be the case.
I know jj is like 99-years-old, but he's tough and sprightly for an old guy, and I'm sure he has no problem closing his door, or turning his engine off (if he remembers to). :P
jj. I'm just kidding!! :P I don't see you posting, so I figure I better get your attention.! :shades:
I'm not sure I fully understand when the problem occurs. Is it just when using the key-fob switch to open the trunk with the engine off, or does it also happen when unlocking by touching the sensor? Also, can you then (pain in the ### that it might be) just recycle the ignition switch to get everything back in order?
I'm not sure I fully understand when the problem occurs. Is it just when using the key-fob switch to open the trunk with the engine off, or does it also happen when unlocking by touching the sensor? Also, can you then (pain in the ### that it might be) just recycle the ignition switch to get everything back in order?
Allegedly, the problem is caused by shutting the car off, then using the trunk release button on the door to open the trunk. Supposedly, there's a defect that keeps sending power to release the trunk even after it's open, and this runs down the battery if you leave the car parked for a while. To avoid the problem, you can do one of three things: 1. Press the trunk release button on the door before turning the car off 2. Use the button on the key fob to open the trunk 3. Just open the trunk with the release on the trunk handle
This must be limited to a subset of vehicles because I use the trunk release on the door after shutting off the engine all the time and have never had problems (knock on maple).
In that case, then the problem is relatively minor. There must be a defeat switch for the inside trunk release. Just defeat it so you won't inadvertently use it. I don't see any lesser convenience by using methods 2 & 3 to open the trunk.
I just picked up my meteor silver RL last week. Powerful, comfortable, quiet, fun. It's truly a starship. Flawless.
I let my son drive it while I sat in the back seat. At 6' 1", 235 lbs. I had plenty of room. Special recessed areas in the interior of the roof gave me 2" to 3" of head clearance.
The automatic headlight off feature works properly, starting the timer after the car's system confirms you have finished using the vehicle, ie. ignition off and drivers door closed.
I would advise anyone considering an RL to ignore posts in this forum written by people who own lots of opinions, but do not actually own an RL.
The problem applies to all the RL's. Try using the trunk release after the car is shut off and don't start it again for over 24 hours. Have a set of jumper cables handy.
Hmmm. It is possible that I've not let it go for 24 hours but it seems unlikely with all the weekends over the last 6 months that I've hauled stuff in the trunk. I think there must be something else that triggers the condition. At any rate, I'm just going to use the button on the trunk lid, it's far easier in this car anyway the way it senses the key fob and lets anyone just push the button on the trunk. Why tempt fate?
Good idea. Take it from someone who has learned the hard way. Can't describe the enjoyment of having a dead battery at an airport after a long business trip.
I picked up my '05 RL in late November just after they were released. Nothing but problems ever since. Many of the problems are mentioned on this forum, but I have a few that I dont see here. Nav locks up - car has to be restarted to fix Nav reboots while driving down the road Brake squeal Antilock brakes pulsing while driving Whines and rough shifting from transmission Rattles on the dash and near sunscreen in back window Wont start - have to exit, lock and reenter several times Heated seats work a few minutes then stop heating Rattles under the car going over bumps Handsfree sounds horrible - popping and cracking Vibrations in steering wheel Windshield washer fluid barely sprays half way up the windshield
I have had it in 6 times - including dropping it off today (havent picked it up, but dont have high hopes) at 2 dealers. Acura corporate customer service has been no help and has hung up on me twice. They didnt want me to record the conversation - even though their answering system announces that they do. Certified letters to them with no response - except phone calls that they hang up on.
The ride and road noise are HORRIBLE. It depends what you compare the car to. It claims to compete with BMW, Mercedes and Lexus.. but all of those cars have a better ride and much quieter cabin. Acura has the best Nav by a long shot - when it isnt locking up. They need to decide if they are a luxury sedan or a sports car. It is contradictory to try to be both.
I have had it. I have hired a lemon lawyer - who gets their fee from the manufacturer only if they win. A $50k car should NOT have so many problems. Maybe mine is bad because I got one of the 1st made, but they should have offered to replace it by now. :lemon:
whats is the problem when the abs light comes on? and stays on.also a humming noise coming from the area where the fluid is dispense.it hums for about 15secs then abs comes on.
my car was in for its first service ---ever since the service I have experienced the following: (1) the sound of the auto door lock repeats itself every 10 minutes or so every time I put the trans in drive and start moving---??? (2) the screen on the nav/audio LCD readout has a 20-30- second delay every time the song/record changes??? has anyone experienced this ??? I love the car, but this "stuff" just started and I want to correct the issues that I never had before the service call. Thanks, Steve
Steve: I had the exact same thing with the door locks and delay in display of artist on XM. There is a very good earlier post on this board that tells how to get rid of the door lock issue. Look back in earlier posts or do a search for the term, "battery cable." The post instructs you to disconnect a battery cable for one minute or so, and then reconnect the cable. It honestly works--no more door lock issue--but the dealers do not know how to fix it. I am still waiting to learn how to fix the NAV delay--it starts right after the recall service, and several people, including myself, have posted about it. Hope there is a fix soon. I love the car overall. Steve C.
Are the auto door lock sound and the dead battery related? The reason I ask is because I have both problems with my '05 TL. It's at the dealership right now to have them look at it, but I don't think they know how to fix either problem.
If I they are related, I'm wondering if I can disconnect the battery cable and fix the problem. Unlike the RL, the TL doesn't say GOODBY. But a few days ago I looked into the immobilizer indicator light and it seemed as this if I didn't remove the key until the indicator goes out the door locking sound stop, but I don't have alot of hope that both of my problems are fixed.
Comments
I thought the whole purpose of an automatic shutoff of headlights is that you don't have to remember to shut them off. They work as intended on the RL; however, you still get a warning chime just like on any cheap car that doesn't have auto shutoff. I agree with steve95008 that this doesn't make sense and it is one of the few annoyances I have with my RL. Having it chime all the time, just for those few people who don't get their door closed tight, doesn't make sense either.
I didn't know, so I just checked it out. Yes, the doors have to be completely shut before the auto shutoff activates. I still don't like the warning chime, but I guess it's possible that's why they did it.
I would tend to agree. Especially since you can barely hear the chime once you close the door, but it's still ajar. I can't imagine it would truly save anyone from running down their battery.
Wow. You really have to wonder what the rush was with Acura to put this car on the market. Was it that they wanted to be the first in the segment to get something new out? Could be. The first to market usually tends to be the most successful (XM vs. Sirius, as an example). But in this case, it seems that everything that came after the RL is doing better in the market, with the exception of maybe the new A6.
But, anyway, it seems like Honda didn't put too much common sense into a lot of the systems in this car.
That's an awfully broad charge. Other than the admittedly annoying warning chime, do you have examples to actually back up your statement?? After driving the RL for eight months, I can think of no other examples.
And then there's the bugs with the systems.
Are you sure that other cars operate differently? I think it likely that many cars' systems can't differentiate between a door that is open and one that is partially open.
And the fact that if the thing that looks like a key, feels like a key, and works like a key but isn't a key is off by a nanometer, it will drain your battery.
I've only heard of a few instances of this happening, including one that I experienced and one that I've never been able to replicate.
And the fact that if you use the key fob to open the trunk after you lock the car, it will drain the battery (or some screwy thing like that).
This is a bug that I'm sure they'll be able to fix.
And then there's the bugs with the systems.
Many newly redisigned models have bugs. Many older models have bugs. It's almost a fact of life with current cars with all their electronic gadgets. I've read enough of these boards to realize that this is not an exclusive Acura problem.
I'm still waiting for something substantive to back up your broad charge of a lack of common sense on the part of Acura in the design of the RL.
Lots of dead batteries, due to the ignition switch design "system" - apparantly one must be trained in how to turn the RL off
Not sure about the RL; but that is true regarding the MDX. The MDX has the SRS passenger sensors in the seatback precluding the placement of heating coils there - or at least that is the corporate line.
So, if you pull up to your house at night, shut off the car, then don't get out of the car immediately, your car's headlights might go off before you ever get out of the car? I often pull up to my house at night, shut off the car, then proceed to pick up items I want to take into the house. I'd rather the timer not start until I open the door and close it. That sounds like a better design to me.
That's just a poor design on Honda's part. What happens if the lights aren't on, but you don't close the door all the way when you walk away from the car? Will the interior lights stay on, too? It's just nuts. Even if I manually turn on my lights and forget to turn them off, the battery rundown feature will shut off everything after 15 minutes. It's supposed to be set it and forget it, not set it and wonder if you set it right or else you'll return to a dead battery. Come on.
Does the RL offer any kind of warning that you didn't close the door all the way when you lock it? I'm sure it does. For me, it's the tone of the horn. If everything is secure when I lock it, I get a short blirp from the horn. If a door or window is ajar, it will let out a loud blast to let me know something is amiss.
You can't lock the car unless the doors are all closed and the ignition switch is off.
As for your other comments, what if, what if, what if. You can't protect everyone from everything.
I'm very happy with the RL and I own one. You don't like it (which you've made abundantly clear) and don't own one. As far as I'm concerned, that's enough.
Enough for this board. I can assure you, that you will never change my mind on the subject with your nitpicking comments, and it's obvious you'll never change yours.
Whether or not that's what Honda had in mind, it works for me.
As far as adjusting the auto timer, you just set it and forget it. You don't have to "keep adjusting" it. It would be more of a hassle fumbling around with a bunch of mess in the car everytime you reach your destination than having to adjust a timer, even if you had to.
Well, if you want to stay in your car and don't want your lights to shine at other people, simply open and close your door. Simple.
Wouldn't it be easier to flip the switch?
But you've sort of argued against yourself because earlier you said with the Honda system you would end up shining your lights in some else's face if you don't exit your car.
The front brake pads rattled over bumps causing a noise which sounded like a loose suspension. Tired of waiting for a response, I looked at both front brake pads and found they have a very sloppy fit on the mounting pins. Additionally, the pads have no insulating shim on the back and no silicone backing, just metal to metal contact.
I applied silicone brake adhesive to the backs of the front pads and, during re-assembly, put a high temp silicone lube on the mounting pins and brake pad ears.
Believe me, this sounds like a new car! The noise over bumps is gone and I am well satisfied with the fix. In my opinion, this is a brake pad design/quality issue that needs to be addressed.
But you've sort of argued against yourself because earlier you said with the Honda system you would end up shining your lights in some else's face if you don't exit your car.
Huh? How so?
I said if you don't manually turn off your lights you'd be shining them in other people's faces. Manually would be flipping the switch or otherwise. A good automatic system would turn them off for you. It seems the best bet with the RL would be to turn them on/off manually all the time.
Or it could just be an age thing. It seems the most active owners here are pretty far on in age, surprisingly. Some of these reported problems could just be that they don't have the full mobility/strength to close the door with enough force or turn the key far enough back. Who knows?
C'mon, I don't think that would be the case.
I know jj is like 99-years-old, but he's tough and sprightly for an old guy, and I'm sure he has no problem closing his door, or turning his engine off (if he remembers to). :P
jj. I'm just kidding!! :P
Allegedly, the problem is caused by shutting the car off, then using the trunk release button on the door to open the trunk. Supposedly, there's a defect that keeps sending power to release the trunk even after it's open, and this runs down the battery if you leave the car parked for a while. To avoid the problem, you can do one of three things:
1. Press the trunk release button on the door before turning the car off
2. Use the button on the key fob to open the trunk
3. Just open the trunk with the release on the trunk handle
I let my son drive it while I sat in the back seat. At 6' 1", 235 lbs. I had plenty of room. Special recessed areas in the interior of the roof gave me 2" to 3" of head clearance.
The automatic headlight off feature works properly, starting the timer after the car's system confirms you have finished using the vehicle, ie. ignition off and drivers door closed.
I would advise anyone considering an RL to ignore posts in this forum written by people who own lots of opinions, but do not actually own an RL.
Nav locks up - car has to be restarted to fix
Nav reboots while driving down the road
Brake squeal
Antilock brakes pulsing while driving
Whines and rough shifting from transmission
Rattles on the dash and near sunscreen in back window
Wont start - have to exit, lock and reenter several times
Heated seats work a few minutes then stop heating
Rattles under the car going over bumps
Handsfree sounds horrible - popping and cracking
Vibrations in steering wheel
Windshield washer fluid barely sprays half way up the windshield
I have had it in 6 times - including dropping it off today (havent picked it up, but dont have high hopes) at 2 dealers. Acura corporate customer service has been no help and has hung up on me twice. They didnt want me to record the conversation - even though their answering system announces that they do. Certified letters to them with no response - except phone calls that they hang up on.
The ride and road noise are HORRIBLE. It depends what you compare the car to. It claims to compete with BMW, Mercedes and Lexus.. but all of those cars have a better ride and much quieter cabin. Acura has the best Nav by a long shot - when it isnt locking up. They need to decide if they are a luxury sedan or a sports car. It is contradictory to try to be both.
I have had it. I have hired a lemon lawyer - who gets their fee from the manufacturer only if they win. A $50k car should NOT have so many problems. Maybe mine is bad because I got one of the 1st made, but they should have offered to replace it by now.
:lemon:
regards, steve
If I they are related, I'm wondering if I can disconnect the battery cable and fix the problem. Unlike the RL, the TL doesn't say GOODBY. But a few days ago I looked into the immobilizer indicator light and it seemed as this if I didn't remove the key until the indicator goes out the door locking sound stop, but I don't have alot of hope that both of my problems are fixed.