Nissan 300ZX



  • bpuz31bpuz31 Member Posts: 2
    is it automatic?does it do it at EVERY stop you come to?only hard stops?if it is auto you might be able to raise the idle..i had an 84 did what yours does
  • bucrucox08bucrucox08 Member Posts: 8
    mine was doing the same thing....i had popped a tiny vac line off..the one by the 5th would die at a stop sign ...would be fine when i first ran it...and fine driving around...i never even noticed it was check engine light or anything...worth at least checking. good luck
  • jim300zxjim300zx Member Posts: 3
    I am having a different starting problem with my 91 turbo. Most times it starts fine, but now and then I turn the key and the dash lights come on but nothing else happens. Usually, if I turn the key a few times it starts fine. I have replaced the starter and adjusted the clutch switch, but it still happens now and then. Any ideas? (Of course, it starts fine when AAA shows up or when I take it to a mechanic.)

  • djewellz32djewellz32 Member Posts: 1
    i had same problem replace ignition switch (switch is probably worn like mine was.
  • sergio10casergio10ca Member Posts: 3
    any one know where can i found a light switch for my 1984 300zx? thanks or if you know some web page to buy used parts for the same car? i have to tab the switch so the ligths come on .i am on florida
  • anne20anne20 Member Posts: 1
    We have a 1991 300 ZX 2+2 with 43,000 miles. Garage kept. Mint condition.
    Only problem is it is very difficult to shift. Problem started a few hundred miles ago. Any clues?
  • bigdoggolferbigdoggolfer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1985 300zx with the original rims. i know that it is a 4lug x 4.5 bolt pattern. I am trying to find out what the offset is so i can order after market rims for it. Can anyone help me?
  • battosai15battosai15 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 84 300zx 2+2 vg30e, and i wanna do the vg30et swap is there anything special i need to do to be able to do the swap or is it even possible to acomplish this.
  • zsformezsforme Member Posts: 4
    I found a great site which may help you, I have found COMPLETE manuals for my 1985 300Z and have reviewed one for my 1994 300ZX. I have not researched it for my 1971 240 yet. Hope it works for you! :blush:
  • zsformezsforme Member Posts: 4
    I found on Craigslist a 1996 Nissan 300ZX (non turbo) asking 3500, only 10,000 actual miles. Here is the rub, it has been submerged... The problem the owner is having is that the vehicle starts, runs rough, but dies when accelerated. He is considering all offers as he is out of the state (Alaska) and is ready to just part it out. My question is what might you check given the limited amount of info I have given. PS there is a new gas tank, maf, ecu have been replaced. Any ideas? thanks
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    sounds like a bad ground or voltage regulator, which is allowing power to go back intoo the alternator thusly frying it and the battery
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    your problem might be because you have no cats they tend to get rid of alot of stuff coming out of the exhaust, also you might have an injector that sticks every so often which would explain the excessive smoke and spike in idle, or the smoke could be oil judging from the color of it, it might be time for a rebuild. check the down pipes coming from the turbo and also check the intake inlet tubes for black soot and oil, this could indicate a turbo issue because they are in fact oil cooled or maybe valve seals or piston rings which is allowing excessive blow-by, if your car is using alot of coolant and overheating you might also have blown head gaskets
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    i had a problem with the ground strap behind the battery coming off or coming loose it would do the same exact thing
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    im pretty sure they are the same length, but you could also go with the one piece drive shaft from i think the only differenc in drive shaft and rearends in the na and tt is the na has a steeper gear ratio than the tt and also the hicas system on the tt which is junkaroo by the way
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    lug nuts, wheel bearings, and tire balance, also the tire maybe a little out of round if you have let it set up for an extended amount of time or have been using the e brake for a manner other than intended alot. make sure the rims are not damaged in any way
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    try the fuel pump, it might build enough pressure to rev so it uses all the fuel in the system,
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    could be a cam sensor or a crank sesor
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    they come out the factory with a cold air intake, under the nose panel in front of the radiator right?
  • 95convertna95convertna Member Posts: 12
    is it an auto or a manual? if you can buy the whole front clip and ecu, it just makes routing the piping and electrical connectors easier
  • justinlustjustinlust Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1985 300 zx I cannot figure out why it is not pusing the injectors . I have replaced the disributor ,coil , and control box. When I test the wires to the injector test as constant pos+ even with the key off . Any body Have an Idea what it could be ?
  • walswals Member Posts: 1
    any sugestions on seats for my 85 300zx, I had some good honda seats but can't figure out how to get them to work,would like some good affordable after market, thanks for any help.
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1990 300zx non-turbo I cannot figure out why the engine will not start. It cracks over and sounds like it wants to start ... Any body Have an Idea what it could be?
  • justinlustjustinlust Member Posts: 9
    have you tried to use starting fluid ? youmay have bad plugs or a vaccume leak orclogged injector . hope this helps. :)
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    Yes I did use starting fluid and it worked. It runs a little ruff but I think you are right about the plugs. I need to get some new ones.

    Thank you for your reply and thank you everyone for helping me. :blush: :)
  • justinlustjustinlust Member Posts: 9
    glad I was of some help to you and feel free to contact me in the future ! :)
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    I need to know if anyone has the vacuum tube diagram. I've been going by
    Online Nissan 300ZX service manual but the picture is way to small.

    I just need something better to go by. Can anybody help me on this?
  • justinlustjustinlust Member Posts: 9
    I have the dealership manual, but will have to look up your question and need more detail to find your answer :confuse: :)
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    its having a hard time starting but it does start. when I give it gas it sputters like it has no power. That's the best way I can explain it. I put new spark plugs in. any suggestions?
  • mattloidmattloid Member Posts: 5
    I have 84-85-86 wiring and vacuum info..
    Do you need? eng-pass comp-? trbo/non-trbo?
    It will take a day or two to get the info to you.
    you can also E-mail me at [email protected]
    I have owned six z`s myself (2 now)-85 2s & 85 2+2)
    Talk to you later.
  • mattloidmattloid Member Posts: 5
    As far as I know (84-85-86) the u-joints are-none replaceable.. You haffto buy a
    new drive line from nissan.(ack) I was checking for one a few years ago..
    The only thing I could find is..a good driveline shop in your town can build you one
    for way less then a new one. Nissan QT me over 600.oo for one.(85-2+2).
    I have two z`s now myself.
    you can also e-mail me at [email protected]
  • mattloidmattloid Member Posts: 5
    there was a factory bulliton on this problem.
    you can`t or it`s verry hard to get all the traped air out of the line.
    You have to use a vacuum bleeder(""NOT A POWER BLEEDER")
    What happens is air gets traped in the curv-of-lines, pistons..
    As you maul or powr bleed the fluid and air turn to fom (it`s in side the systom
    were you can`t see it. I will look it up to nite ,
    hit me back (ok) e-mail [email protected]
  • mattloidmattloid Member Posts: 5
    I was looking under nissan performance on the e-net. I saw a comp making
    It`s in my notes (i`ll have to find it) But it is out there.
    I need carpet for mine too.
  • mattloidmattloid Member Posts: 5
    did you get rid of you zx car?
    [email protected]
  • justinlustjustinlust Member Posts: 9
    I think you have either a ignition or injrctor prblm try taking the distributor cap off and cleaning inside the distributor with sone non harful contact clreaner ask your local auto parts guy and he will give you a type that will work also check to see if it has excessive ware if so replace it and the rotor . yomay hav4e a vaccume oroblem but i chec the plug wires or the coil wire it sounds elec try putting your computor in diagnostic mode and it will help you with more to look for it is located on the pass. side under the kick panel and it will have a hole with screw inside and if you follow the directions it will runn a series of test then diplay the trouble codes if you have questions contacvt me direct @ edwardlust @ ed
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    distributor cap!
    Ummmmm, whats a distributor cap? :confuse:
  • kentj1kentj1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Nissan 300 ZX TT that needs a low pressure side A/C hose. The local Nissan dealer says they are unavailable; I have ordered at least 5 through online Nissan services, and after 1-5 days, they cancell the order as unavailable. Help!
  • bucrucox08bucrucox08 Member Posts: 8
    find out if its the same as the non turbo....and then hit me up...i may have one
  • fish53fish53 Member Posts: 1
    The low wwasher light is on even thiuogh there is a full tank for both the headlights and windshield. Where is the sensor?
    Also my AM/FM radio is AM only. Is there supposed to be a ground on the aerial??
  • engdocproengdocpro Member Posts: 3
    I have an '86 300zx, 2+2. After my alternator failed I made the mistake of installing an Autozone reman which promptly (after about two weeks) started putting out about 18 volts and before I had a chance to replace it, it fried and blew 6 fuses and the black fusable link. Now I am left with headlights that wont go out and headlight doors that just go up and down without stopping. The horn relay and the blower relay are blown but I cant find the other relays and sensors other than the ones that are under the hood and above the fuse block. I also suspect that the H.L. sensor is burnt. I've been snooping around an hour here and an hour there for about two weeks now. There are no visable shorts so far but I can't seem to find some of the other relays and I especially want to find the Diode block. Can anyone help with my headlight problems or tell me were to look? I've disconected the alternator but have not replaced it yet because I'm not sure which one to buy yet. Any ideas? I sure wont be an AUTOZONE AUTOBLOW. This is the second one that did this to me in the last year (other car was Taurus) HELP, (please) engdocpro
  • joani1joani1 Member Posts: 9
    Battery could be weak.
  • lover1lover1 Member Posts: 2
    i am buyin a 300zx from my boss he says lifters tick and second gear is goin out how hard would it be to put a manual trans in it and would it be money wise the right thing or fix the automatic please help
  • lover1lover1 Member Posts: 2
    car runs
  • driftydrifty Member Posts: 1
    so i have an 87 300zx n/a and it was starting fine until last night. it doesnt pull from the battery, all my lights and stuff work...but it wont even attempt to start, now i kno it could be anything from the ignition switch to the clutch switch, but i notticed wen i turn the key, everything stays on except the clock and the security light blinks. any thoughts?
  • tim15tim15 Member Posts: 10
    I just bought a 1986 300 ZX turbo with 120K that has always been adult owned. Everything works, including the a/c/ . I have a few questions, if anyone can help...
    1. What viscosity oil, and regular or synthetic?
    2. The transmission shifts nicely, but the fluid looks dirty. SHould I change it or leave it alone?
    3. ANy way to check the timing belt? I don't know when it has been replaced.
    ANy other tips will be appreciated. Thanks Tim
  • dooley95dooley95 Member Posts: 1
    Is there a glue or a kit to fix the dash at the defrost vents on the 300 zx. The past 3 I have had have this problem
  • abirchabirch Member Posts: 2
    I have a 90 300zx non turbo, i have been experiencing a noise like a loose lifter up top on the passenger side of the block. also i have no idea why but i have been dumping fuel bad, my oil pan has a huge fuel content to it. i have just gotten it reasently and im not real fullmilure with the fuctions of this car. if anyony can lend any pointers of were to start it would be greatly appreiated, and i thank you in advance.
  • bucrucox08bucrucox08 Member Posts: 8
    Probably a bad injector and possibly a head long have you had it and in what state did you buy it....either get rid of it..or order a jdm engine. As much as a love these cars...the injectors go if they haven't been replaced in the vicinity of 130k and the head gaskets seem to blow easily. I have had 6z's now...and have had ONE on the road...i cut the rest up for parts b/c they had so many issues. Let me know if you need parts....i'm scrapping on this week that's stripped except for the engine.
  • abirchabirch Member Posts: 2
    ive only had it for about a mounth. it was my friends car that i was helping him build. it just had a new RS crate engine put in, that was ready to go pretty much out the crate. when the engine place put it in they said it was normal but it doesnt sound right. he was tired of it and let me get it. dont think head gasket, not over heating now that i fixed a hose, and no water in my oil.

    im not sure about my injectors, never checked them. i was thinking along the line of fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator.

    if i were to have to order the engine about how much do they run, and what website would i need to go to for a good one.
  • engdocproengdocpro Member Posts: 3
    I don't know if I'm just getting to old or loosing my mind or both but I don't know how in the world me got to scrapping an engine (or car) because it has a fuel leak. I'm not a car mechanic, but I have been a construction equipment mech for more than 40 yrs and during this time, I can count on one hand (maybe 1 1/2) that I've had to bring a car to another mech. If this car had a carburater, I would say have it rebuilt and thats it. BUT, its fuel injected, which I know almost nothing about but I do know this. There's very few places that can cause your crankcase to fill with fuel. If this was my car, I would buy the manual and just keep pulling components off until I found the one thats leaking, replace it and I'm done!!!! I bought my car ('86 n-t) a few months ago and the engine ran so poorly that the guy took $550.00 for the car. I started "sniffing" around and found that all of the injector connections were corroded. I spent less than $100.00 on the car, cleaned and re-insulated all the connections and now, you have to turn the radio down to hear if the engine is running. AND, if I want to have some fun, I can spin the wheels and wake up the whole neighborhood
    Get some wrenches, get some advice, and fix the dam thing!!!!
  • z32chicz32chic Member Posts: 16
    1990 300zx non-turbo Coupe ........ Old starter went bad so I replaced it. Now the car will not start. Can someone please help me out.

Sign In or Register to comment.