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Comments
28 MPG is typical for me (2006 Accord EX I4 Auto), so get used to the good economy.
I think one longer run was already around 26 something. The worst was around 22 MPG in a more 50 / 50 mix of in town and some extra right foot driving, and highway use, as I got over the 600 miles on the car mark.
Loren
2007 SE MT.
Sure, I drive aggressively, sure it's cold now in 20-40, yes, it's normally 1-2 miles at a time driving (park & ride) in stopNgo traffic, but 10 MPG????? Is that even possible?
Sure, it's possible. If you sit at red lights all day, rev the engine, and take off like a nut, when the light turns green. Heck, if you sit at the gas station, and rev the engine, till you run out of gas, you can get 0mpg.
coldish weather + 12 mile drives + easy on the engine shoudlnt be 22?
I might just let my lead foot down and have fun, since its not like im getting 35's...
First was 35 mpg going between 75 and 55 (still breaking in engine)
Second and third tanks were slightly faster and the weather was very windy (steady 35 mph and gusting. these dropped to 32 and 31 mpg. I am hoping to be in the upper thirties once I get a wind free day and the car is broken in.
(othewise spectacular)
..the guy immediately ahead of you (post #719) could use some of your karma or skill (maybe both)
..at any rate, you're much more likely to develop an asymtotic relationship with the 40 MPG curve that I.
...ez...
this is my second Accord I was pretty much impressed by the OLD accord(2002 EX-L) which gave me 25 mpg avg. the reason for buying this new accord is b'cuz of the old one and now this MPG on this one SUCKS.,,,
I called the dealership..but no use(obviously)...
sometimes it make me rethink everything
someone help me :confuse:
which is 176/10 = 17.6= 18 approx
My past notions of shopping for a diesel are just about gone.
--Unless it's a Honda; then I'd look at the economics again.
I've never done a purely "city" tank since i live in the suburbs, but my lowest was my first ever tank, at 26 MPG,a, although that could be due to the dealer not properly filling my car up!
Loren
I test drove used Cadillacs, and they are pretty good. But I got a new car, with better gas mileage and a sporty ride, for a really good price. The Caddy CTS was pretty fun on the test run. Would not say better though than the Accord. Overall, I am impressed with the Honda. Closest thing to it right now, from GM, I think is the Aura XR, which is pretty good. My deal on the SEV6 Accord though was better than just pretty good. :shades: And the Aura feels slightly narrow and more confining than the Accord. The interior material a little better in the Accord. Aura tranny and engine in the 3.6 XR model though is really good. My Accord cost less, and on the balance of everything I can think of, is the better deal. And I now have the most HP of any car I have ever owned. My 1965 Mustang 289 was 200HP, I believe, so this new car tops it. And with double wishbone suspension, without hopping across the turns with bumps.
Loren
P.S. Those buying a PT for more than $14K, I will never understand. Did you know they can run up as high as upper line Accords in some models of the PT? Crazy ya know! Resale time would hurt so, so, so bad.
Used to use 87 octane gas but had a lot of engine knocking so switched to higher octane and it seems extra dollars give better mileage and engine knocking went away as well.
Must be the fuel in your area. I have never put a drop above 87 OCT in my car, and I've never had a single knock. I have a 2006 EX 4-cyl Automatic (same engine as your SE I4).
54 city/168 hwy (22/78% city/hwy) with 10.5 (with 222miles) gallons = 21 MPG. :mad:
Still much below 20/29 EPA gas mileage. Should I wreak havoc with the Honda USA or should I give it a few hundread miles to see if it improves? :lemon:
I'm in north east NJ near GWB so it's pretty much similar to NYC city driving but highway driving was 60-70 mph.
Loren
....that's in the ball park.....
......at 30k now. Using my 05 AV6 6M raw numbers for my evening statistics class.
Two random samples covering about 3k during period 12/06 - 2/07 show: mean 27.9 - median 27.3 and mode 27.4. (About 60 per cent highway).
Nothing wrong with a six sipping fuel better than many fours
..best, ez..
This is probably a dumb question, but would it conserve gas to use the manumatic shifting, 1,2,D3,D4? I'm not sure and I don't really know what it would be used for otherwise. What would you use the manumatic shifting for if not to save gas? :confuse:
Also, whilst I'm talking about saving gas is there any special shade of brown/black to look for when one is thinking of replacing the air filter? Or does one just replace it at the 12-15k mark.
Sorry for the idiotic questions.
"D" - Drive, use normally.
"D3" - Operates like a conventional automatic, using gears 1,2,3 but preventing gears 4 and 5 from engaging. Useful in engine braking, mountainous regions to prevent gear hunting, etc..
"2" - Locks the vehicle in second gear. Good for starting in slick conditions (second gear starting is useful because it prevents wheelspin - try starting in second sometime, you'll see what i mean)
"1" - Locks in 1st gear. Personally, I've only used this one time, on a REALLY steep hill where I wanted all the braking help I could get.
You can't use the car like a manumatic for a couple of reasons. Beyond, 1st and 2nd gear, you have no way to manually select 3rd, 4th, or 5th, since D3 operates like a three-speed automatic, and there is no "4."
You will not save gas this way. The automatic transmission is set up to run in the highest, most efficient gear possible while providing ample power being called for by your right foot. Honda transmissions are particularly good at selecting the right gear at the right time, so take my advice (please) and leave the car in "D" if you don't need the other gear selections for engine braking or special conditions mentioned previously.
The questions aren't idiotic, but they can be answered by simply reading your manual. Give it a try.
I'm assuming you have the 5-speed automatic Accord, but the 4-speed autos work the same way as I mentioned, just trade "D" for "D4"; they operate the same way.
I was just curious and the manual was somewhat confusing on that point.
With regards to starting in second I will have to try that at some point because the weather up here in Minnesota, and probably everywhere else, is getting rainy. Therefore the roads are kind of slippery. I've never used the different selections, at least not properly, I don't think. I'm still trying to get used to all of the different features in the vehicle because I've only had it for a year.
Thanks for your reply though.
"D3" - I am in hilly areas/going down a long grade.
"2" - I've never really had to use this for preventing wheelspin since we haven't had measurable snow in a record 7 years, but in snow/ice, I'd use this to minimize wheelspin. I HAVE used it for major engine braking to aide my traditional brake system on a steep, slow hill. It helps prevent my brakes form over heating. I wouldn't have the car locked in a gear that keeps the RPMs above 3,500 though, or you are liable to overheat the transmission, especially at low speeds. I've only used "1" once in my life, going down a VERY narrow, VERY steep, VERY curvy road headed to the river.
99% of the time, my car is in D4, as this is the most efficent way to drive, and will do the least damage/wear on your transmission.
Hope this helps.
I think that D2 with be a big help in the winter and early spring, since I live in Minnesota where we get a decent amount of snow once in a great while and our roads, at least secondary, aren't always plowed when they should be.
Once again thanks for the information. My teachers always told me to ask a question if I have one because others may have the same question and just don't want to ask.
D3 is the equivalent of the "D with no circle." D4 is the same as overdrive, and "D with the circle (which I think is supposed to be "O D" for Over Drive).
Don't hesitate to ask any questions, I've had my 1996 for a LONG time and have learned a lot about it, so don't hold back questions. If you don't know something, and you can't find it the manual, this is a GREAT place to learn about your car. I know I did!
Drove 4.1 miles home...
Started off a long trip this morning .
After reaching destination of 232 miles , i filled it up again, it took 6.567 gallons.
in the return trip, traffic jammed, turned on ac and for 247 miles, it took 7.45 gallons...
Looks like i got 36 and 33 mpg on this trip
The best help for city mpg is the stick shift - much more coasting, no resitance at idle, and about 80lbs less to accelerate with less transmission loss.
Jan thru March (about 3200 miles), the mean/median/mode were 27.7/27.4/27.3
About 70 per highway, RON 87, no a/c and 6th cog as much as possible. Sure, there's a slight pentalty for driving a six, but I'm just not sure a four will do it for me.
..ez..
SE 4 5m 1,500 miles at start.
499 miles 15.1 gallons = 33.0 mpg
Was hoping for higher, but once again conditions were not ideal
Temp for most of the trip was under 20 degrees,
stiff wind from the North, a dozen of so small towns, snow and ice on the road for about 50 miles, engine still not fully broken in.
Set cruise at 65, so I was not going to fast.
My minivan loses about 2-3 mpg at those temps, so I am waiting for a warm spell. Of course last week was in the mid 80's - when I didn't have to drive.
So far 31.8 mpg average since new.
That cold weather will kill mileage, especially if you add mountain passes and wind. You'll be pleased when you make that same trip in warmer weather. I'd guess a 3-4 mpg bump.