Everything elroy and Saleem said are true. You only count the gallons burned during the miles you are counting (the 13 gallons, in your case). Even if you only use a half tank and fill up, you will only count the 8 or so gallons, then divide that 8 gallons into the number of miles it took to burn them.
28 MPG is typical for me (2006 Accord EX I4 Auto), so get used to the good economy.
So latest fillup was 292mi/11.77 gal = 24.8mpg. currently have 2500mi on the odo. a mix of city/highway miles. i think my problem is most of my trips are relatively short (15-25 miles one way).
From what I've read your trips are probably long enough to warm the engine up sufficiently, but your car still hasn't broken in all the way. Once that happens you'll be getting better results.
My commute is exactly 50/50 mix (7 miles highway, 7 miles stop and go) one way, so I don't think the engine not being sufficiently warm is your problem. For reference, my commute is 14 miles, and takes about 25 minutes to make.
Wow, there is something wrong with the car. I got a new V6 and it is always getting over 24 MPG in mixed driving and this is in the early days of driving, as in below 1,500 miles. After a few more miles, I am sure mixed driving will be over the 24 MPG and I am expecting around 28 MPG + on longer freeway runs. I think one longer run was already around 26 something. The worst was around 22 MPG in a more 50 / 50 mix of in town and some extra right foot driving, and highway use, as I got over the 600 miles on the car mark.
Brand new Accord (7 miles at start). Drove home from dealer (225 miles) changing speed from 55-80, stopping a few times, pulling through a few rest areas to change speed. Got 32.5 mpg with the dealer fill. The dealer did not have it to full either because the needle went higher when I filled it.
I have about 500 miles but just last week, I filled up the tank (10.5 gallons) & realized I only have 90+ miles on Odometer (I reset every time I refill). Sure, I drive aggressively, sure it's cold now in 20-40, yes, it's normally 1-2 miles at a time driving (park & ride) in stopNgo traffic, but 10 MPG????? Is that even possible?
Sure, I drive aggressively, sure it's cold now in 20-40, yes, it's normally 1-2 miles at a time driving (park & ride) in stopNgo traffic, but 10 MPG????? Is that even possible?
Sure, it's possible. If you sit at red lights all day, rev the engine, and take off like a nut, when the light turns green. Heck, if you sit at the gas station, and rev the engine, till you run out of gas, you can get 0mpg.
Sounds very logical to me, seany. With only 1 mile at a time driving, stopped a lot of that mile, and trying to heat a cold engine to normal temperature; I'm surprised you're even getting in the teens.
Took a long trip (800 miles) and had a few more tanks.
First was 35 mpg going between 75 and 55 (still breaking in engine)
Second and third tanks were slightly faster and the weather was very windy (steady 35 mph and gusting. these dropped to 32 and 31 mpg. I am hoping to be in the upper thirties once I get a wind free day and the car is broken in.
skill?! / :mad: man, im driving this car like a baby and trying to pamper it with meguiar's wash, c/p, and wax... in fact gonna buy a PC buffer... maybe itll get better in warm weather?
I have a 2007 Accord LX (one month old),with 900 miles ONLY, its giving me around 18 miles(mixed driving)lot of highway and minimum city driving conditions, i dont really know what to do???
this is my second Accord I was pretty much impressed by the OLD accord(2002 EX-L) which gave me 25 mpg avg. the reason for buying this new accord is b'cuz of the old one and now this MPG on this one SUCKS.,,,
Bought my car in Jan with 22K miles on it. Since then I average a little over 30mpg in 60/40 hwy/city. Hwy only runs 33-37 depending on terrain/speed. City only, which I rarely drive, I get 23-25. I've been quite pleased. No problem getting over 500 miles on a tank with mostly hwy, but I don't push my luck. My past notions of shopping for a diesel are just about gone. --Unless it's a Honda; then I'd look at the economics again.
Your experience (and typical average of 60%hwy/40%city) mirrors mine quite well. I also average between 29 and 30 MPG in those conditions with A/C and the occasional rush hour back-up. On my last run to the gulf coast, I only got 35 MPG because of my speed (constant 78-79 MPH where I can get 40 MPG going around 70 MPH).
I've never done a purely "city" tank since i live in the suburbs, but my lowest was my first ever tank, at 26 MPG,a, although that could be due to the dealer not properly filling my car up!
Last trip with my SEV6, with some 1,800 miles on her, I got around 27.5 miles per gallon on the highway. This was traveling on a road (highway) with some hills for a good part of it, and a little bit of city driving and freeway. It was not just flat easy going on a freeway. I am impressed. I am pretty sure I will be able to match of beat the freeway mileage now which is listed as 29 for freeway. Even when under 600 miles on it, the car was doing pretty good with a mix of highway and city, with MPGs around the 22 to 24 range. Loren
For its price, the PT is a good car to haul things around, has some character to it, and had no real problems as far as repairs. The Accord, on the other hand, is like driving a luxury car, with cornering capabilities more like a sports car. The car far outclasses the PT, but then it should. We are talking a spread of around 8 to 9 thousand price wise. I wish I had the money at the time when I got the PT to have gotten the Accord instead. The net-net cost of ownership is about the same, or less with the Honda. I am getting slightly better gas mileage right now, and it is improving with miles. So I now have 244HP where I had 150HP before, and the automatic transmission is so much better around town, while getting better gas mileage. No more droning sound, as you know the hatchbacks can make at certain speeds. And the PT ride was more truck like. I think they are cheap to buy, as in initial cost, kinda neat looking, and can haul taller items around with is a good thing -- so the PT has its good side.
I test drove used Cadillacs, and they are pretty good. But I got a new car, with better gas mileage and a sporty ride, for a really good price. The Caddy CTS was pretty fun on the test run. Would not say better though than the Accord. Overall, I am impressed with the Honda. Closest thing to it right now, from GM, I think is the Aura XR, which is pretty good. My deal on the SEV6 Accord though was better than just pretty good. :shades: And the Aura feels slightly narrow and more confining than the Accord. The interior material a little better in the Accord. Aura tranny and engine in the 3.6 XR model though is really good. My Accord cost less, and on the balance of everything I can think of, is the better deal. And I now have the most HP of any car I have ever owned. My 1965 Mustang 289 was 200HP, I believe, so this new car tops it. And with double wishbone suspension, without hopping across the turns with bumps. Loren P.S. Those buying a PT for more than $14K, I will never understand. Did you know they can run up as high as upper line Accords in some models of the PT? Crazy ya know! Resale time would hurt so, so, so bad.
I purchased 2006 accord 4cyc back in Mar, 2006. Current mileage is around 26,000 miles and i average about 30 mpg (50hwy/50city). Used to use 87 octane gas but had a lot of engine knocking so switched to higher octane and it seems extra dollars give better mileage and engine knocking went away as well.
Used to use 87 octane gas but had a lot of engine knocking so switched to higher octane and it seems extra dollars give better mileage and engine knocking went away as well.
Must be the fuel in your area. I have never put a drop above 87 OCT in my car, and I've never had a single knock. I have a 2006 EX 4-cyl Automatic (same engine as your SE I4).
Still much below 20/29 EPA gas mileage. Should I wreak havoc with the Honda USA or should I give it a few hundread miles to see if it improves? :lemon:
I'm in north east NJ near GWB so it's pretty much similar to NYC city driving but highway driving was 60-70 mph.
After a few more fills of gas, you will likely get into the range of around 24 to 26 MPG with that mix of driving. And highway driving will go to 27 to 30MPG, no doubt. OK, a little doubt, but I think you will get there. We are talking a really new engine here. Just keep breaking her in and enjoy the ride. You may need around the 1,500 to 2,000 mark to see improvement, with more to follow as you cross over say 3,000 miles + . Loren
I just past 20k miles since I got my Accord EXL V6, and my average has been 25.5 mpg with about 50/50 city/hwy mix, as tracked on the fueleconomy.gov wesite. I have recorded all my fuel purchases since day 1. My most recent tank with about 80% hwy yielded 28.5 mpg. What I particularly like about the Accord is I don't have to baby the throttle to get this mileage - I can drive it the way I like to drive, a little on the sporty side, but not drag racing or being aggressive either. Overall, I'm very happy with the car! :shades:
This is probably a dumb question, but would it conserve gas to use the manumatic shifting, 1,2,D3,D4? I'm not sure and I don't really know what it would be used for otherwise. What would you use the manumatic shifting for if not to save gas? :confuse:
Also, whilst I'm talking about saving gas is there any special shade of brown/black to look for when one is thinking of replacing the air filter? Or does one just replace it at the 12-15k mark.
Your Accord doesn't have manumatic shifting. Read your owner's manual to learn what the other gear selections are for. Here's the abbreviated version:
"D" - Drive, use normally.
"D3" - Operates like a conventional automatic, using gears 1,2,3 but preventing gears 4 and 5 from engaging. Useful in engine braking, mountainous regions to prevent gear hunting, etc..
"2" - Locks the vehicle in second gear. Good for starting in slick conditions (second gear starting is useful because it prevents wheelspin - try starting in second sometime, you'll see what i mean)
"1" - Locks in 1st gear. Personally, I've only used this one time, on a REALLY steep hill where I wanted all the braking help I could get.
You can't use the car like a manumatic for a couple of reasons. Beyond, 1st and 2nd gear, you have no way to manually select 3rd, 4th, or 5th, since D3 operates like a three-speed automatic, and there is no "4."
You will not save gas this way. The automatic transmission is set up to run in the highest, most efficient gear possible while providing ample power being called for by your right foot. Honda transmissions are particularly good at selecting the right gear at the right time, so take my advice (please) and leave the car in "D" if you don't need the other gear selections for engine braking or special conditions mentioned previously.
The questions aren't idiotic, but they can be answered by simply reading your manual. Give it a try.
I'm assuming you have the 5-speed automatic Accord, but the 4-speed autos work the same way as I mentioned, just trade "D" for "D4"; they operate the same way.
I'm not sure if it's a five speed. I have the 95 Accord EX.
I was just curious and the manual was somewhat confusing on that point.
With regards to starting in second I will have to try that at some point because the weather up here in Minnesota, and probably everywhere else, is getting rainy. Therefore the roads are kind of slippery. I've never used the different selections, at least not properly, I don't think. I'm still trying to get used to all of the different features in the vehicle because I've only had it for a year.
A 1995 Accord will have the 4-speed Automatic, but everything I've said basically still applies. The only time I use something other than D4 in my 1996 Accord (same basic car as yours) is when:
"D3" - I am in hilly areas/going down a long grade.
"2" - I've never really had to use this for preventing wheelspin since we haven't had measurable snow in a record 7 years, but in snow/ice, I'd use this to minimize wheelspin. I HAVE used it for major engine braking to aide my traditional brake system on a steep, slow hill. It helps prevent my brakes form over heating. I wouldn't have the car locked in a gear that keeps the RPMs above 3,500 though, or you are liable to overheat the transmission, especially at low speeds. I've only used "1" once in my life, going down a VERY narrow, VERY steep, VERY curvy road headed to the river.
99% of the time, my car is in D4, as this is the most efficent way to drive, and will do the least damage/wear on your transmission.
Thank you for clarifying that for me. I don't like to use anything unless I know exactly what it does for fear that I may mess something up. All the cars that I've driven except this one have had overdrive, the D with a circle around, and drive D, along with the standard park, reverse, neutral, and once low. Therefore I've never had any reason to really learn how to use them.
I think that D2 with be a big help in the winter and early spring, since I live in Minnesota where we get a decent amount of snow once in a great while and our roads, at least secondary, aren't always plowed when they should be.
Once again thanks for the information. My teachers always told me to ask a question if I have one because others may have the same question and just don't want to ask.
Answering your question is no problem. This will help you remember how they work. The gears with "D" in them operate like a typical automatic with the number of gears shown (D4 = Auto with 4 speeds, D3 = Auto with 3 speeds). Gears with just numbers (2, 1 just represent the gear you are locking into).
D3 is the equivalent of the "D with no circle." D4 is the same as overdrive, and "D with the circle (which I think is supposed to be "O D" for Over Drive).
Don't hesitate to ask any questions, I've had my 1996 for a LONG time and have learned a lot about it, so don't hold back questions. If you don't know something, and you can't find it the manual, this is a GREAT place to learn about your car. I know I did!
I filled up the tank last night. Drove 4.1 miles home... Started off a long trip this morning . After reaching destination of 232 miles , i filled it up again, it took 6.567 gallons. in the return trip, traffic jammed, turned on ac and for 247 miles, it took 7.45 gallons...
Hello. I have a 2007 Accord I-4 with auto trans and 900 miles on the odo. My gas mileage has been around 23 MPG in a city/highway mix of about 70/30. I expected better mileage when I bought the car especially better than my 2004 Olds Alero with 3.4 V6 and 4 speed auto trans. The Aleros' gas mileage was nearly identical to the Accords' in the same driving conditions. Also, the EPA city rating on the Alero was 4 MPG lower than the Accord. What gives? Is the car not broken in? Do I have a mechanical problem? Any input would be appreciated. Overall though, I'm still very satisfied with the Accord even if the gas mileage is less than I expected.
You could still gain a couple of mpg as the car breaks in. High torque V-6 engines can do pretty well in the city because you never have to push the gas very much. CR got both the V-6 and I4 Accords at 16 mpg in their city tests. On the highway the 6 was 34 and the 4 38.
The best help for city mpg is the stick shift - much more coasting, no resitance at idle, and about 80lbs less to accelerate with less transmission loss.
...I used my 6M coupe's fuel usage data for my evening statistics class......
Jan thru March (about 3200 miles), the mean/median/mode were 27.7/27.4/27.3
About 70 per highway, RON 87, no a/c and 6th cog as much as possible. Sure, there's a slight pentalty for driving a six, but I'm just not sure a four will do it for me.
499 miles 15.1 gallons = 33.0 mpg Was hoping for higher, but once again conditions were not ideal
Temp for most of the trip was under 20 degrees, stiff wind from the North, a dozen of so small towns, snow and ice on the road for about 50 miles, engine still not fully broken in.
Set cruise at 65, so I was not going to fast.
My minivan loses about 2-3 mpg at those temps, so I am waiting for a warm spell. Of course last week was in the mid 80's - when I didn't have to drive.
That cold weather will kill mileage, especially if you add mountain passes and wind. You'll be pleased when you make that same trip in warmer weather. I'd guess a 3-4 mpg bump.
I wish it were my calculation!!!..but I'm very capable of checking my mileage....hopefully when warmer weather hits here in New Jersey it will be better. Possibly using a little more gas in morning warm-ups, but I doubt if it will make much difference...maybe a gallon or 2 ...but even 20 mpg isn't good.....
Comments
28 MPG is typical for me (2006 Accord EX I4 Auto), so get used to the good economy.
I think one longer run was already around 26 something. The worst was around 22 MPG in a more 50 / 50 mix of in town and some extra right foot driving, and highway use, as I got over the 600 miles on the car mark.
Loren
2007 SE MT.
Sure, I drive aggressively, sure it's cold now in 20-40, yes, it's normally 1-2 miles at a time driving (park & ride) in stopNgo traffic, but 10 MPG????? Is that even possible?
Sure, it's possible. If you sit at red lights all day, rev the engine, and take off like a nut, when the light turns green. Heck, if you sit at the gas station, and rev the engine, till you run out of gas, you can get 0mpg.
coldish weather + 12 mile drives + easy on the engine shoudlnt be 22?
I might just let my lead foot down and have fun, since its not like im getting 35's...
First was 35 mpg going between 75 and 55 (still breaking in engine)
Second and third tanks were slightly faster and the weather was very windy (steady 35 mph and gusting. these dropped to 32 and 31 mpg. I am hoping to be in the upper thirties once I get a wind free day and the car is broken in.
(othewise spectacular)
..the guy immediately ahead of you (post #719) could use some of your karma or skill (maybe both)
..at any rate, you're much more likely to develop an asymtotic relationship with the 40 MPG curve that I.
...ez...
this is my second Accord I was pretty much impressed by the OLD accord(2002 EX-L) which gave me 25 mpg avg. the reason for buying this new accord is b'cuz of the old one and now this MPG on this one SUCKS.,,,
I called the dealership..but no use(obviously)...
sometimes it make me rethink everything
someone help me :confuse:
which is 176/10 = 17.6= 18 approx
My past notions of shopping for a diesel are just about gone.
--Unless it's a Honda; then I'd look at the economics again.
I've never done a purely "city" tank since i live in the suburbs, but my lowest was my first ever tank, at 26 MPG,a, although that could be due to the dealer not properly filling my car up!
Loren
I test drove used Cadillacs, and they are pretty good. But I got a new car, with better gas mileage and a sporty ride, for a really good price. The Caddy CTS was pretty fun on the test run. Would not say better though than the Accord. Overall, I am impressed with the Honda. Closest thing to it right now, from GM, I think is the Aura XR, which is pretty good. My deal on the SEV6 Accord though was better than just pretty good. :shades: And the Aura feels slightly narrow and more confining than the Accord. The interior material a little better in the Accord. Aura tranny and engine in the 3.6 XR model though is really good. My Accord cost less, and on the balance of everything I can think of, is the better deal. And I now have the most HP of any car I have ever owned. My 1965 Mustang 289 was 200HP, I believe, so this new car tops it. And with double wishbone suspension, without hopping across the turns with bumps.
Loren
P.S. Those buying a PT for more than $14K, I will never understand. Did you know they can run up as high as upper line Accords in some models of the PT? Crazy ya know! Resale time would hurt so, so, so bad.
Used to use 87 octane gas but had a lot of engine knocking so switched to higher octane and it seems extra dollars give better mileage and engine knocking went away as well.
Must be the fuel in your area. I have never put a drop above 87 OCT in my car, and I've never had a single knock. I have a 2006 EX 4-cyl Automatic (same engine as your SE I4).
54 city/168 hwy (22/78% city/hwy) with 10.5 (with 222miles) gallons = 21 MPG. :mad:
Still much below 20/29 EPA gas mileage. Should I wreak havoc with the Honda USA or should I give it a few hundread miles to see if it improves? :lemon:
I'm in north east NJ near GWB so it's pretty much similar to NYC city driving but highway driving was 60-70 mph.
Loren
....that's in the ball park.....
......at 30k now. Using my 05 AV6 6M raw numbers for my evening statistics class.
Two random samples covering about 3k during period 12/06 - 2/07 show: mean 27.9 - median 27.3 and mode 27.4. (About 60 per cent highway).
Nothing wrong with a six sipping fuel better than many fours
..best, ez..
This is probably a dumb question, but would it conserve gas to use the manumatic shifting, 1,2,D3,D4? I'm not sure and I don't really know what it would be used for otherwise. What would you use the manumatic shifting for if not to save gas? :confuse:
Also, whilst I'm talking about saving gas is there any special shade of brown/black to look for when one is thinking of replacing the air filter? Or does one just replace it at the 12-15k mark.
Sorry for the idiotic questions.
"D" - Drive, use normally.
"D3" - Operates like a conventional automatic, using gears 1,2,3 but preventing gears 4 and 5 from engaging. Useful in engine braking, mountainous regions to prevent gear hunting, etc..
"2" - Locks the vehicle in second gear. Good for starting in slick conditions (second gear starting is useful because it prevents wheelspin - try starting in second sometime, you'll see what i mean)
"1" - Locks in 1st gear. Personally, I've only used this one time, on a REALLY steep hill where I wanted all the braking help I could get.
You can't use the car like a manumatic for a couple of reasons. Beyond, 1st and 2nd gear, you have no way to manually select 3rd, 4th, or 5th, since D3 operates like a three-speed automatic, and there is no "4."
You will not save gas this way. The automatic transmission is set up to run in the highest, most efficient gear possible while providing ample power being called for by your right foot. Honda transmissions are particularly good at selecting the right gear at the right time, so take my advice (please) and leave the car in "D" if you don't need the other gear selections for engine braking or special conditions mentioned previously.
The questions aren't idiotic, but they can be answered by simply reading your manual. Give it a try.
I'm assuming you have the 5-speed automatic Accord, but the 4-speed autos work the same way as I mentioned, just trade "D" for "D4"; they operate the same way.
I was just curious and the manual was somewhat confusing on that point.
With regards to starting in second I will have to try that at some point because the weather up here in Minnesota, and probably everywhere else, is getting rainy. Therefore the roads are kind of slippery. I've never used the different selections, at least not properly, I don't think. I'm still trying to get used to all of the different features in the vehicle because I've only had it for a year.
Thanks for your reply though.
"D3" - I am in hilly areas/going down a long grade.
"2" - I've never really had to use this for preventing wheelspin since we haven't had measurable snow in a record 7 years, but in snow/ice, I'd use this to minimize wheelspin. I HAVE used it for major engine braking to aide my traditional brake system on a steep, slow hill. It helps prevent my brakes form over heating. I wouldn't have the car locked in a gear that keeps the RPMs above 3,500 though, or you are liable to overheat the transmission, especially at low speeds. I've only used "1" once in my life, going down a VERY narrow, VERY steep, VERY curvy road headed to the river.
99% of the time, my car is in D4, as this is the most efficent way to drive, and will do the least damage/wear on your transmission.
Hope this helps.
I think that D2 with be a big help in the winter and early spring, since I live in Minnesota where we get a decent amount of snow once in a great while and our roads, at least secondary, aren't always plowed when they should be.
Once again thanks for the information. My teachers always told me to ask a question if I have one because others may have the same question and just don't want to ask.
D3 is the equivalent of the "D with no circle." D4 is the same as overdrive, and "D with the circle (which I think is supposed to be "O D" for Over Drive).
Don't hesitate to ask any questions, I've had my 1996 for a LONG time and have learned a lot about it, so don't hold back questions. If you don't know something, and you can't find it the manual, this is a GREAT place to learn about your car. I know I did!
Drove 4.1 miles home...
Started off a long trip this morning .
After reaching destination of 232 miles , i filled it up again, it took 6.567 gallons.
in the return trip, traffic jammed, turned on ac and for 247 miles, it took 7.45 gallons...
Looks like i got 36 and 33 mpg on this trip
The best help for city mpg is the stick shift - much more coasting, no resitance at idle, and about 80lbs less to accelerate with less transmission loss.
Jan thru March (about 3200 miles), the mean/median/mode were 27.7/27.4/27.3
About 70 per highway, RON 87, no a/c and 6th cog as much as possible. Sure, there's a slight pentalty for driving a six, but I'm just not sure a four will do it for me.
..ez..
SE 4 5m 1,500 miles at start.
499 miles 15.1 gallons = 33.0 mpg
Was hoping for higher, but once again conditions were not ideal
Temp for most of the trip was under 20 degrees,
stiff wind from the North, a dozen of so small towns, snow and ice on the road for about 50 miles, engine still not fully broken in.
Set cruise at 65, so I was not going to fast.
My minivan loses about 2-3 mpg at those temps, so I am waiting for a warm spell. Of course last week was in the mid 80's - when I didn't have to drive.
So far 31.8 mpg average since new.
That cold weather will kill mileage, especially if you add mountain passes and wind. You'll be pleased when you make that same trip in warmer weather. I'd guess a 3-4 mpg bump.