Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Most popular vehicles
Popular New Cars
- New Acura MDX
- New Acura RDX
- New Audi Q5
- New BMW 3 Series
- New BMW X3
- New Buick Enclave
- New Cadillac Escalade
- New Chevrolet Equinox
- New Chrysler 300
- New Dodge Challenger
- New Ford Edge
- New Ford Escape
- New Ford Expedition
- New Ford Explorer
- New Ford F-150
- New Ford Focus
- New Ford Mustang
- New Honda Accord
- New Honda Civic
- New Honda CR-V
- New Honda Fit
- New Honda Odyssey
- New Honda Pilot
- New Hyundai Elantra
- New Hyundai Santa Fe
- New Hyundai Sonata
- New Hyundai Tucson
- New Jeep Compass
- New Jeep Grand Cherokee
- New Jeep Wrangler
- New Mazda 3
- New Mazda 6
- New Mazda CX-5
- New Nissan Altima
- New Nissan Maxima
- New Nissan Rogue
- New Porsche Cayenne
- New Ram 1500
- New Subaru Crosstrek
- New Subaru Forester
- New Subaru Impreza
- New Subaru Outback
- New Tesla Model S
- New Tesla Model X
- New Toyota 4Runner
- New Toyota Camry
- New Toyota Corolla
- New Toyota Highlander
- New Toyota Prius
- New Toyota RAV4
- New Toyota Sienna
- New Toyota Tacoma
- New Volkswagen Jetta
- New Volvo XC60
- New Volvo XC90
Popular Used Sedans
- Used BMW 5 Series
- Used Chevrolet Impala
- Used Chevrolet Malibu
- Used Chrysler 200
- Used Dodge Charger
- Used Ford Fusion
- Used Ford Taurus
- Used Honda Accord
- Used Honda Civic
- Used Hyundai Elantra
- Used Hyundai Sonata
- Used Tesla Model S
- Used Toyota Camry
- Used Toyota Corolla
- Used Volkswagen Jetta
Popular Used SUVs
- Used Acura MDX
- Used Acura RDX
- Used Ford Edge
- Used Ford Explorer
- Used Honda CR-V
- Used Honda Pilot
- Used Hyundai Santa Fe
- Used Jeep Compass
- Used Lincoln Navigator
- Used Mazda CX-5
- Used Nissan Rogue
- Used Subaru Crosstrek
- Used Subaru Forester
- Used Tesla Model X
- Used Volvo XC90
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I drove both the Outback and Forester. I also liked the Outback's snazziness, but I chose the Forester because it had more proven and documented crash test information and a little bit better reliability according to a leading consumer magazine. The Outback does have a couple pluses -- I believe it's made in Indiana (vs. Japan -- if this matters to you) and it has side curtain airbags instead of just side seat airbags like the Forester. I don't know why the IIHS has not crash tested the Outback -- they did the Legacy, but their results for the Legacy said they do not apply to the Outback, so I chose the Forester. The Forester to me feels more nimble and easier to control than the Outback. Where I am located, the Forester X was the less expensive of the two by several thousand, so this is another reason I chose it over the Outback.
I'm beginning to think that there is something wrong with my Forester because it gets so lousy gas mileage.
manual / auto ?
usual distance driven when you go anywhere? ?
city? country ? mix ?
hilly ? flat terrain?
whereat are youse in the USA?
30 mpg isn't out of reach. This time of year I'm averaging over 30mpg in an '05 XS, stick shift in eastern PA. Daily commute of 14 miles one-way, highway, with some bumper-to-bumper miles, plus a few 100 or 200 mile trips evenings and weekends in rolling hills. 30k miles on the FXS / 18 months
All of these contribute to a decent mpg. Take any of these favorable conditions away and I know I won't do as well in a Subie, or in any car / truck / SUV for that matter. For example, if I lived in Houston with the many 100-degree days necessitating liberal use of A/C, I'd easily lose 2-3 mpg right there.
Things to check -
tire pressure (I add 2 psi over recommended),
how much you use the A/C (I use the ol' 4x40 A/C *** unit unless it's really blazing hot out),
how aggressively you use the gas,
try a different brand of gas if you're always buying from the same gas station.
are other drivers in the family (kids?) flogging the beast?
it can't hurt to ask the Subie dealer to see if anything is amiss, especially if you haven't seen any issues with performance.
tires worn? Hate to say this, but anyone with worn tires will automatically see better mpg since the odometer will indicate an inflated number of miles. If the tread depth decreases 1/4 inch, I estimate a 2 to 2.5 percent increase in indicated miles traveled. At 30mpg, that would be an extra 0.7 mpg gain over new tires.
*** 4x40 A/C unit = crank all four windows down and do at least 40mph. Interesting enough, Mythbusters did a study on regular A/C vs 4x40 and found the 4x40 gave better gas mileage by a significant degree.
I pay attention to things like proper air pressure, never "stomping" on the gas pedal and driving the speed limit. Those things help too. I use the air conditioning but not a lot.
Bayview6, if you take a trip somewhere at 65mph and you're not getting around 28mpg, I think I would talk to the Subaru dealer If I was you.
Just FYI, before I bought my Subaru, I had an Acura Integra. In it I recently took a 2000 mile trip across Utah and Nevada averaging 80 miles per hour. My fuel mileage was 10 mpg less than typical, because I was going so fast. It does make a difference.
I got 17.3mpg last time I was towing a trailer. :surprise:
Also, I spent a week in the OBX, and it was on the sand pretty much the whole time, and I got just 20.7mpg.
One other time, also towing, I got in the teens. But that's it.
As they say YMMV.
-juice
I'm getting no better than 18mpg on my 06 FXT 4EAT in 70/30 mixed driving, and around 20mpg on road trips.
What concerns me is that prior to April I was averaging 21mpg in mixed driving and 24mpg on road trips, so basically I have experienced a mysterious 3-4mpg drop in fuel efficiency. Acceleration seems a bit sluggish lately as well.
I check the air in my tires religiously, so it's not that. My driving habits have not changed that I am aware of. I'm pretty easy on the a/c also.
Other considerations:
The first week in April I changed my oil for the second time (approx 7800 miles) and switched the conventional for Castrol Syntec Blend. The first couple of fill-ups after that is when I noticed the mpg drop. I wouldn't think a synthetic blend would cause a mpg drop, though.
Also, within a few days of that oil change, I seriously flooged my car several times while driving on the freeway. We're talking rapid acceleration from 70 to 110 mph, just for a few seconds, then dropping back down within legal limits again. Obviously illegal and dangerous, yes, so spare me any lectures please, I'm just going through the facts. Besides, it's an XT - few could resist the turbo's temptation on an open road. :shades: Any chance I caused some damage that could be affecting current mileage and performance?
Was on a road trip following the oil change, out of state, and could only find 91 octane gas. I usually use 93. I used two tankfuls of the 91 octane, one from a no-name chain. I noticed a slight performance drop during these tankfuls because of the fuel grade, but it shouldn't cause a long-term problem, should it? That gas is long gone by now, and regardless, 91 is ok to use in the FXT.
I've changed my air filter (only a little dirty after 10k miles) and added fuel injector cleaner to my gas in an effort to solve this problem, but neither worked. I show close to 12 psi of boost, so the turbo appears to be working ok after the flogging.
I just passed 11k miles and this is still a mystery. :confuse:
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Doug
My guess is it will slowly lean out the fuel mixture as you go back to your normal driving style and octane as well.
-juice
I actually considered the same thing and reset the ECU a couple of weeks ago and didn't notice an immediate improvement.
Maybe patience would help here, but with a 250 mile range and high gas prices, patience is hard to come by!
Doug
I am running Cobb Stage 1 with the 93 octane map, or at least I was until a few days ago.
This would be insignificant to my mileage concern as I was getting close to 22 mpg in mixed driving the first few months after installing the AP - if anything my mileage was 1-2mpg better after the reflash.
But when I filled up with 91, I had to drive several miles before I was able to upload the 91 octane map to my ECU.
Again, this was two months ago. My gas has gone back to 93 and so has my map. But starting then, I noticed the drop in gas mileage. A few days ago I decided to unmarry the AP altogther and see what effect that has.
Doug
I use nitrogen in the tires and the tire pressure is 33. Have Goodyear ComforTreds which have about 6000 miles on them. Terrain is hilly to flat and I use Shell gasoline at the same pump so the amount of fill-up is reasonably close. Also, I'm the only one driving the vehicle.
Maybe my 20 mpg is correct given the short trips I take.
-juice
I have to say that I am shocked at how well the Forester handles for such an upright car with all that ground clearance. I'm also surprised at how rich feeling the interior is with the dimpled vinyl material on the dash and doors, and silver-colored center stack. I'm hoping someone could help me with the following questions:
-I find the brake pedal to be a bit mushy, and the stopping distance in the Forester is much longer than that in the Legacy and the Jeep Liberty that I traded for the Forester. I have the X model with rear drum brakes. I don't know if this is the culprit, but I was wondering if I could fit the car with larger brakes? Should this give the car a more secure braking feel?
-The window sticker indicates that the car was assembled in Newport News, VA. I understood that the Forested was built in Japan. Can someone clarify?
-Does anyone have the short-throw shifter? I replaced the stock shift knob on the Legacy with the Momo shift knob from Subaru. The shift action with this is near-Honda like in its snick-snick operation and makes the Legacy a blast to drive. I paid $80 some dollars for this at the dealer and installed it myself. The short-throw shifter for the Forester is over $250 and does not seem to be a new shift knob, but rather, a totally different shift mechanism. Is anyone familiar with the difference between the two Legacy and Forester shifters? I'm assuming that are very different just based on the price difference.
Thanks!
Jeff
As for the longer braking distances, I can't comment on the X with rear drum brakes as I don't own that particular model.
Doug
One aftermarket shop even sells a brace you use to firm up the location where the brake master cylinder is mounted.
I'd do those cheaper/easier solutions before I changed out the rear brakes completely.
I have the SPT shifter for my '98, it might differ slightly, but basically I just yanked the lever out of the kit and swapped only that. There's less insulation, it deletes a layer of rubber in the lever itself, so it's more direct feeling.
-juice
All Foresters are built in Japan but many of the options (speaker kits, mud flaps, etc.) are "port installed" so maybe that's what the sticker is referring to.
-Frank
When I don't ride my motorcycle, my daily drive (city only) is about 22 miles RT (St. Paul, MN to Minneapolis), speeds in the 30-45 mph range. Much more go than stop, as I commute in the early am (6ish) so there isn't much traffic. Return trip (3-4ish) is pretty decent as well - no bumper to bumper traffice per se.
We purchased a new '06 Forester X, plain Jane 5sp MT basically Nov. 1 of '05, so it has been through one weak MN winter. Only options I have are the speakers and a sub - so plan Jane indeed. I'm 95% good on the gas - shifts in the low 3k - every now and again shifting at 4k - very, very rarely do I let it go to 5k. 16+ yrs driving MT vehicles - so I've learned to be easy on the clutch/gas.
This type of driving nets me right at about 22-23 mpg (right along the suggested raitings correct?). Driving done w/ me as solo occupant. As I ride my motorcycle pretty much all the time now, the A/C is pretty much never used on these types of trips.
For comparison - my old 4x4 F-150 (5.4L V-8) would get about 14 mpg on said trip.
My mixed cty/hwy driving consits of 30-60 min jaunts in the metro area at speeds of about 55-60 mph. This type of driving nets me mixed mileage at about 24-26 mpg. Drives done w/ 2 adults, 1 child, and 1 baby - no gear/luggage. A/C just starting to be used now that it is warming up.
This was the first time we have been able to take her on a long trip. Same ridership as above - add gear for a 4 day wknd, food, coolers. Also an aluminum cargo carrier running off of the hitch - packed to the hilt. Speeds right about 65-70 mph w/ cruise on 90% of the trip. A/C ran the entire trip - usually fully C and either 1 or 2 fan speed. Trip up, mid 80s. Trip back - mid 90s.
Best I ever got w/ the truck on the same trip was 18 mpg. Once...
I am the original owner, and have put more than 95% (7k now) of the miles on her - my wife driving the other 5%, and she drives more gingerly than I do. Break-in was done to the T - and there has been pretty much zero hooliganism w/ her so far (though she does corner quite nicely...).
Hope this answers some of the questions - please ask more and I'll be happy to respond.
And of course, YMMV.
Horsepower is about equal. Pricing is also about equal. IIHS crash test scores were perfect for both.
Edmunds Editors rating scored Legacy 8.7 and Forester 8.0. C.R. overall rating was 'VERY GOOD' for both. J.D. Power overall rating was 3 for Legacy and 4 for Forester.
Seems they're pretty equal except Forester is the larger vehicle. But the Legacy has curtain side airbags protecting rear side passengers. I have children. I would want airbags in the rear. It seems to me the Forester is a family car. Why wouldn't it include rear airbags? :confuse:
MPG was 28.64.
Probably my very short trips around town really eat into my city mpg (18 to 20) and driving at 80 mph probably reduces hwy mpg by 10%.
Based on my experiments, the difference in mileage at 80 mph vs. 65 mph is more like 25%, not just 10%. Of course yours may vary. Another thing to consider besides mileage is that it also reduces life expectancy. :sick:
I used to have a heavy foot and averaged 75-80 on the freeway. I've gotten over it. Guess I'm in less of a hurry these days. Some of the freeways in my state have a speed limit of 75. Most are 65, so that's where I set it and watch everyone else fly by.
It seems like Subaru is late to stability control party. I believe the only cars with this are the B9 Tribeca and Outback VDC? The reason I mention this is because I almost lost control of my Forester a few days ago. I was on an exit ramp connecting the Garden State Pkwy to I-80, and traffic on the ramp came to an abrupt stop. Turning while braking hard caused the rear end to lose traction and fishtail. I had time to let off the brake pedal, steer into the slide and regain 4 wheel traction without incident, but this made me worry. If the $14,000 Scion xB has standard ESC, why would Subaru not include this on all their cars? Perhaps this incident would not have happened in a Forester with 4 wheel disc brakes and EBD? I feel ESC (VDC, ESP, VSC, or whatever each car company calls it) is an excellent safety net when AWD and prudent driving behavior is not enough to avoid an accident.
It is about one year old. It has intermittent buzzing noise in steering column/wheel area when I am driving on bumpy freeway. The noise last for a while even after I am on a smooth road. Also it makes a sort of creaking/buzzing noise when I am turning my wheel especially when the cruise control paddle passes over the turn signal stick. I have taken to a dealer about 4 times about the problem. They have not been able to fix it since they cannot always duplicate the noise. First time they applied TBS 15-114-05. 2nd time they oiled “counter clock coil”. Both times, the noise went away for 2-3 weeks and came back.
3rd and 4th times, they said they cannot verify it. Have anyone had similar problems and was able to fix it? Thanks.
A stability control program will not abridge the laws of physics. You can lose control of a car with a stability program by taking a slippery curve at an unsafe speed and applying hard braking. The Foresters' design is such that it doesn't really *need* a stability program as some other vehicles, but I agree it would be a great "nice to have" feature.
-juice
This sounds like a friend o' mine with a Lotus Elan Plus-2 circa 1970. Had a noise coming from the rear that he couldn't trace down. Pulled the tires numerous times, checked and re-checked the suspension and other mechanicals. It finally dawned on him that the inside of the tire was occasionally rubbing on the suspension, causing the noise.
If the dealer is pulling the steering wheel to check for teh source of the noise, he may being running into the same situation as the above Elan Plus-2. My take - you have a loose part in there that gets dislodged on the bumpy freeway.
Much thanks in advance!!
But if your record is spotty, you will be quoted higher rates. As I said, you have to shop around to find the best rate. I believe I pay about $800 a year for the vehicle with full coverage and $500 deductible.
Clean driving record - clean credit record.
Things like your age and driving record are important, as other responses have said, but note that New Jersey has (in)famously high car insurance rates, possibly the highest in the country.
You think NJ is high? Heck I pay more ($514) in Atlanta and I have great credit, a spotless driving record and am in one of the lowest risk groups
-Frank
This past May, I drove my 2006 Forester to Denver. Everything was fine till I hit CO. The winds were quite rough, and it seems that at various times (5 or 6 on the way to Denver, and only once on the way back - in CO), a God-awful high pitched quasi-scream came from outside (although it seemed like inside) the car. I had the cruise on and increased speed to pass a truck. A couple of times, I was in the middle lane between a semi and other vehicles on either side. But two other times, I was pretty much out of any close proximity to other vehicles. I thought maybe it was the new satellite radio system, and turned it off - and it still made the noise. I am perplexed. Is is just one of those wind and velocity configurations, or ....
Thanks,
Rich
Depending on what speed you were traveling, it could have been the rubber seal at the top of the windshield, but I've only seen Forester(ok, mainly FXT) owners complain of that when going in excess of 100mph... so unless those mountain winds were REALLY strong, you got some 'splainin to do... :shades:
Thanks again!
Besides, the antenna for the satellite is through the top of the windshield (rubber area)....hmm.
Posted over at NASIOC
I haven't done this myself as I don't drive the car often enough for it to bug me and my wife barely hears it.
1. I noticed the service engine light blinking the whole time of the test drive - which was less than 5 mins and under 1 mile. The dealer claims it's due to the engine not being prep'ed because it was new. Is there any chance he is correct?
2. There was also a clunking noise coming from the rear which he claims was loose accessories stored in the trunk but I didn't see anything loose other than the two front seat carpets.
3. The engine bay was extremely hot when I opened it. It was less than a mile of testing. Is this normal?
The other two items you mentioned - no clue.
Ben: hadn't heard of many radiator cap failures, in fact those are the first two I'd heard of!
-juice
One other question - what's the reason behind Subaru not having a door frame around the side windows?
Remarkably because of the low engine position, though, the hood of my Forester is never hot to the touch no matter how long I've driven it or how recently I turned it off. But stand next to the front wheel for any amount of time and you'll definitely feel the heat coming off the boxer.
Doug