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Comments
The fuel filter is going to be a major pain. It is integrated as part of the fuel pump assembly. Here is the technical bulletin on how to replace: http://www.kiatechinfo.com/TechInfo/TechnicianTimes/board_view.asp?docu_no=744. Make sure you are logged in to Kiatechinfo before you click on the link or you want get to it directly.
The dealers are going to charge a fortune to replace that thing. The maintenance on this vehicle is going to cost. The maintenance schedule also calls for transmission fluid change every 18K miles, which seems a little excessive to me. I was expecting more like every 30K. I have been having a hard time finding anyone who sells the fuel tank air filter and fuel filter so if you find a place, please post it and also let us know how much they cost you. I'm hoping Kia still honors the warranty if I do the fuel filter replacement myself.
Backy-- Does your Elantra automatic have the same 18000 fluid change? My wife keeps the car in the garage unstarted days at a time, I'll probably split the difference with 30,000 or so fluid changes. Of course, I'll still have to go back to the dealer since the Mitsu/Hyunkia fluids are probably not widely available.
While we are searching for additional informations, you can check for some spy shots:
http://www.kia-world.net/index.php/2008/03/14/2009-kia-optima-facelift/
He said "there is not need to change the fuel filter unless there is a fuel starvation problem" .
I have a friend who works for Chrysler and they have the same system. They do not require any fuel filter maintenance. It makes sense.I am not sure about the air filter.
1.Oil and filter
2.Trans fluid
3.Radiator flush.
2021 Kia Soul LX 6-speed stick
BTW, why not just use a KIA dealer,none in your area?
I'm probably going to get a flush,not just a partial fluid replacement.Every dealer seems to be different.
FWIW-- Pennzoil has fluid that (supposedly) meets multiple specs.
http://72.14.253.104/search?q=cache:gEUZfn-ProoJ:www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/Dome- sticMarketing/Gear%26Transmission/Pdf/MultiVehicleAutomaticTransmissionFluid.pdf- +kia+transmission+fluid&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=3&gl=us&client=firefox-a
Happy St Pats day. :surprise:
The Passat was mentioned and some others engaged in conversation about it. That has not happened with the Optima for quite some time in that discussion. Your assumptions are incorrect and unhelpful.
It is not easy to manage which cars are displayed there. I do the best I can. If anyone wants to complain, the way to do that is to email either me or Karen. Continuing to disrupt various discussions over this is pointless.
PS not sure why anyone would buy the 2.7 engine.It's only slightly more powerful, and gets worse MPG not to mention the dreaded timing belt issue.
1)What are the specifications for the front and rear stabilizer bars on the 07 Optima? (Any one noticed it's not published on Kia's website compared to other manufacturers that publish such details)
2)Is anyone here using synthetic oil on their Optima? What brand and what weight? For conventional oil what brand and weight? My dealership seems to be switching brands every six months..........I am considering just buying my own oil from Wal-Mart and taking it to the dealership for consistency since different companies have different additives.
3) This one I should probably post on the mpg forum, those of you who claim to be getting higher than 35mpg what would you recommend with regards to oil brand,type of oil (synthetic or conventional) and cold tire pressure reading? I follow the owners manual closely....so 32psi cold, and 5w30 for oil and my best mpg has been 31 (2007 Kia Optima EX w/ Apperance Package).
35 lbs air, and just last week had tires inflated with nitrogen.It's the latest fad. Can't hurt. I did get over 40 MPG one time but that is not typical.Usually straight hwy I get at least 33.
I got a good UOA with ST 5w30 going 4000 miles with my 01 Elantra so I may run one on this car and then stretch it out if everything looks good. The short Hyunkia service intervals are a way for them to get even for the long warranty. The oil life monitor on my Malibu Maxx runs over 7000 miles. That's a bit far to pust SuperTech so I switch to Pennzoil 5w30 for that one.
There are 3 current generations Optimas that I have seen here in Kewanee. It's fairly unusual,but I think as people come to realize the Korean cars are almost as good as the Japanse brands,more KIAs will be seen on the road.
PS Love those heated seats and the cassette deck allows me to listen to my old tapes.
The present generation came out as a 06.5. The 09 model with the different front and rear clips is a mid-cycle upgrade.
There are warnings from both Hyundai and Kia about not taking responsibility for rattles caused by non OEM filters. This is probably the Fram Orange Can-O-Death. These have very little filtering capacity, but thousands of people have driven cars with Fram filters for hundreds of thousands of miles. If I can get Wal-Mart to substitute a SuperTech filter it's worth the extra buck over a Fram (Fram costs more over the counter but not with an oil change).
Your car is undoubtedly good for a 6000 mile OCI. The problem is Kia's practice of pushing people to short fluid changes in order to keep the 100K warranty in place. The 18,000 mile transmission refill is especially egregious.
I'll probably run an analysis at about 4000 miles on the Wal-Mart 5w20 and then gradually stretch the intervals out. If you have to bring in 5w20 from Wal-Mart, I'd recommend the TropArtic. Conoco Phillips has a lot of group 3 refining capacity and their oils (including Kendall and Motorcraft) is a very robust semi-syn that sells for little more then the SuperTech. It's got a very good ad pack and should easily last 6K. Again, if I was running it that far I'd get the oil tested in order to shut up the service rep who might hassle you if you have a power train warranty claim.
Frankly Pennzoil yellow is a very good group 2+ oil with an excellent ad pack. I run that in my Malibu which I routinely take to 7500 miles before the oil life monitor bottoms out. Depending on what your dealer's 5w30 is, I don't think you have any reason to bring in an outside 5w20. I really can't think of a bad SM rated oil. Valvoline is probably the weakest, but it should do fine.