Dealer is lying they will put it on the lot for 16,999 depending on extras you have, on the 2010 LX-P standard is steel wheels, but alloy's are extra, if you do not want to sell it yourself try other dealers. Example, about a year ago lease was coming due on my business partners Camry, he wanted a new one, so he went to the dealer talked to a salesmen asked what his used XLE was worth (Perfect condition low miles), salesmen told him whatever you owe is what its worth at the end of the lease, he told the salesmen "maybe I'll sell it my self", salesmen you can't do that it's a lease, total lie. I told him get online and e mail at least 5 dealers tell them about your car, and you want a new Camry, long story short (I know to late), he got a new Camry XLE, equity on his trade was $2500, paid $500 for first month, and DMV lic., they gave him a check for $2000
I kind of figured he was just saying that because when I asked him why he wasn't interested in buying it he didn't say much. Kept saying that in order for them to certify a used car is costs them 2k plus adding new tires, brakes etc. I really hate the whole car leasing/buying process when you have to finance. Life would be much easier if I could pay straight cash lol
automan822 wrote: Sell the car yourself - put it up for whatever it's worth (what model is it?), if it's worth 16,000, and you owe 14,000 sell it payoff the 14K and pocket the 2K, BUT very important do not pay off the car before you sell it, if you do they can charge sales tax on the remaining amount.
In a lease you are not the owner of the car (no title) so "selling" to a private individual is doable but convoluted: as Edmunds writes in "3-ways-to-turn-your-lease-into-cash.html", "Sell your leased car to a neighbor, friend or family member. This method requires a bit of trust, so it helps to sell your car to someone you know."
Good luck with this one if the party comes in through your craigslist ad, especially with a draft from a Nigerian bank........
You're friend with the Camry did VERY well, the same approach I'm doing myself, but working with dealers - whether through trade/purchase or outright purchase by dealer - I would suggest is not what would be commonly understood as "sell(ing) the car yourself".
It's already been recommended to the OP emaree that they get a quote from qbrozen over in the Trade-In Value forum here on Edmunds, and your suggested approach is the way to go.
It's up to them now....... maybe they'll report back in a week or two?
Agree with you 100%, but I have done it twice, one was easy (lease was through Wells Fargo), so we just went into a branch. You can take a chance and payoff (did that on a 2007 Highlander)yourself and get the pink slip, but you do put yourself in the position of paying sales tax if you don't sell the car in a few days, every state is different in that regard.
Don't know. I think the technology in the new EX-L likely surpasses the TL. I also think it looks more attractive, but that is entirely subjective. All I'm interested in doing here, though, is determining whether the offers I've received are good.
What state are you getting these deals in? I live in NY ( on the border of NJ) and the cheapest lease quote I have gotten on the EXL is $349 (incl tax) per month with DMV and first payment at close.
Does anyone know the April and/or May MF and residual numbers on a EX-L V6 w/Nav Accord for 36 months & 12k/year? Please assume best possible credit rating.
Hi badger1994. Through April 30th, Honda Finance's buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36-month lease of a 2013 Accord Sedan EX-L V6 with 12,000 miles per year are .00107 and 58% for consumers who qualify for its top credit tier.
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Carman is RV for Accord EXL 4 58% too. I have a question about the acquisition fee.If it is paid upfront it will not be added to gross capitalized cost? Any incentives for April for the Accord? Thanks.
Thank you for the experience with the WF bank automan822.
I did more reading on the web and see where this is possible. Can't do it with my lease financed through the manufacturer/dealer but I'll look into a CU/bank maybe the next time round.
You know since you read prior posts in the forum that it's tough to say without more detailed numbers to punch into a spreadsheet, the region you're located, the manner with which taxes are levied, etc.
Anyway Dude, enjoy your test drives! Let us know how the 4 Cyl compares with the V6!
member delta737h understands the whole NY tax thing in leases (I don't).
If you were in my State which simply taxes the monthly payment and with a base payment of $220 and with the Honda provided residual and MF incorporated in the lease, I would sign 'n enjoy.
So true - the difference in lease payment is usually around $50-60 more for the EXL equipped with nav - not really worth it unless you want the convenience of how it interacts with other equipment and intend to use it a lot.
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I currently have civic and infiniti leases. Civic expires soon and was looking at the honda accord sport with manual. I see on weymouths website they have 20,000 mile leases. I drive a lot and currently have 15,000 miles. I like the fact of getting a new car every 3 years.
Question does honda offer 20,000 mile leases and is it cost effective or am I better getting the 15k lease and just paying the .15 a mile I go over.
Buying the extra miles up front is usually around .08 per mile versus the .15 per mile overage at lease end. Not sure but I think Honda will go 18k and 21k with the appropriate reduction in residual, of course. The money factor might change a little also.
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I can't wrap my head around the numbers and this is driving me a little crazy, okay a lot crazy. Please bear with me.
I saw the lease special for $2500 down and $250 a month not including Tax, Title, Dealer options etc here in Houston Texas (8.25 % tax rate)
I had a 2001 Dodge Durango for Trade In
Here's a breakdown of my lease deal.
2013 Honda Accord LX CVT Auto Propack and Tint added ($735) after MSRP of $23270 for total of $24005 Advertised: $249 per month for 36 months (not including Tax, Title and Dealer Options, etc...), $2,499 cash due at signing
My Deal (with a $1500 Trade In and $3000 cash down payment)
Gross Cap Cost $26630 Cap Cost Reduction 4250 Adjusted Cap Cost $22379 Residual $14194 Depreciation $8184 Rent Charge $ 1408 Total of Base Payments $9593 Lease Payments 36 Money Factor .00107 (The finance manager told me this after I called him back) Base Monthly Payment including Tax $266
I can't help but think I got screwed somehow in this deal. But maybe I'm just overreacting. I called the dealer and they gave me an itemized listing of the fees which totaled $2753 (which included the 735 for the dealer options and a sales tax of $1464 and various other fees) on top of the MSRP and not including the acquisition fee of $595. He said in order to get the special price of $250, I would have had to put down $5242 but the lease terms limit it to %20 of the total cost of the vehicle.
Please put my mind at ease and help me make sense of this and tell me I didn't get hosed..It seemed fine until I got home and started mulling over the numbers.
It looks like I basically got MSRP with an addon package of $735...I'm happy with that based on my payment, I just don't want to think I tossed my old vehicle at them and they marked up the Cap Cost or something funny...I've been on countless numbers of online calculators and nothing is making sense to me.
Thank you to anyone who can help put my mind at ease!!!
The fact that you admit that you paid MSRP plus $700+ for add-ons, but you were happy with the payment, indicates that you got hosed. Why are you paying MSRP? It seems you were more concerned with the monthly payment than with the numbers that would have got you to a lower monthly payment. Plus you put down such a large down payment which is not good with a lease. If others disagree with me, feel free to chime in.
So in the future what should I do...How do you not pay MSRP?
I don't get it?...from what I read online, most people said that Honda dealers don't budge on prices for their leases..
Should I have gotten him to give me a quote below MSRP in an email before I went there? Or not gone at all and done all the quoting by email?
The showroom setting really screws me up...I get nervous, flustered and hate the experience...
I went into it knowing I would have to pay for taxes etc...so when the payment came to $16 over 250 it seemed okay, but then I got online and found how people were putting down less than I was and still getting less or lower payments.
Did this dealership basically steal my Trade In vehicle - can I bring a lawsuit against them or is it just my fault for not trying to get them below MSRP.
Vspeed - looks like your biggest mistake is doing the research after the fact - many shoppers do this. If you show a willingness to pay sticker price, the dealer is happy to take your business. If you review the past few months posts in this forum, you will see that there are some pretty good discounts right now on the 2013 Accord. On the positive side, you leased a very good car that will last a long time and will hold its value very well. Now that you have found this forum, always come here first to get an idea of the market before making a vehicle purchase.
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
It was paid off for about the last 6 years...It was a 2001...and started having major mechanical issues...just clicked past 124,000 miles...it had more sentimental value than financial
vspeed wrote: "Thanks but I just found this site and I'm getting used to the forum"
Yeah, I know what you mean: compared to typical forums I've come across on the web, this one is rather an odd one in trying to follow threads.
Personally, I'm truly sorry we weren't able to help you help you out beforehand! You're so congenial and you're GREAT with replying to each response with an acknowledgement and thank you. You're making it a really, REALLY friendly forum
It's nice to see this where, and especially relative to HOST Car_man's assistance, there is nary the follow-up for any help provided.
I personally hope we'll see your contributions for others in the future!
Its all water under the bridge now. Next time......you will be well prepared!
You can always, ALWAYS negotiate the "selling price" of the car. Regardless or purchase or lease. Start at the INVOICE and work up.......never down off MSRP.
A great deal is $300 over invoice (then minus any dealer cash or rebates)
Watch "add ons" dealers love those......all pure profit. They saw you coming, and took you for a little ride. Just choose a different dealer next time if you do another Honda.
Hi Kean. The residual value for a 36-month lease of a 2013 Accord Sedan EX-L 4-cylinder with 12,000 miles per year is 57%.
You can pay the acquisition fee at signing or roll it into your vehicle's capitalized cost to bake it into the payment. It's up to you, though the less that you pay at signing the better.
Honda is not specifically providing any cash incentives on leases of the 2013 Accord right now, but it does have some $500 FlexCash certificates floating around out there that can be used on leases. Try to get the dealer to use one on your deal.
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You're very welcome badger1994. The money factors for Accords with or without Navigation are the same, but the Nav units have 2% lower residual values.
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Thanks Car_man.Right now I had quoted for EXL with no options for 24,413+dest. Would you think its a good price? And if I'm going to lease. It is the price I will get or not. One thing I had a '10 leased Rdx base with 24k m 1 mo. remaining on lease.Any ideas if I could get some equity from it and apply that equity to a new lease.Because one Honda dealer I visited that said I have nothing from it but Kbb, edmunds trade in value is almost $22k. And need your opinion if it is favorable to buyout the Rdx after the lease for $18664+tax or get a new lease honda accord exl.Thank you again.
This forum has been extremely helpful. Thanks everyone for thier input.
I am in the market for an Accord EX Sedan with the manual transmission (really disappointed the Sport doesnt have a sunroof!). Anyways, when will the May money factor and specials be known? Trying to figure out if I should try for something at the end of this month or wait till May.
Also, can anyone know the residual value for an EX Sedan w/ manual transmission for a 3 years lease at 12,000 miles per year? I am in the Midwest (Nebraska), if that matters.
Usually the new program details are not revealed until the old program expires and sometimes there is a little lag time involved. The danger in waiting is that as the model year gets into the later stages, the residual values might decrease.
2016 ES350 Lux/Atomic Silver 2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Glad to have found this group and its helpful membership.
I will be in the market in another year and plan on keeping up this time and posting my experience.
This place (and people) has definitely softened the blow of my hasty decision making and really has armed me with a lot of great knowledge and experience to proceed positively from here and really look at this as a great learning experience I can pass on.
We drive home our new lease Accord EXL 4cyl yesterday.$25213 price and end up $260/mo lease and its the amount we pay at signing.At first they said we don't get any equity on a lease car with a month left and when I try to leave he go back to their manager. And then we he come back he ask how much I would want, so I said at least $2k. I know it should be more bec. at edmunds trade in price was $21900.But I'd just ask $2k and its a third dealer I visit the previous dealer didn't budged.So were happy at least we didn't return our RDX with nothing.And was thankful to this forum at least have an idea to how much I gonna pay.
Hi all, This is my first post to this forum, so I have to start by saying thank you to everyone, as I have used it for many years to research all my prior leases. I think I just got a really great deal on my new Accord that I wanted to pass along to everyone. Boy does shopping around at the end of the month help!!
2013 Honda Accord EX Sedan, CVT transmission, 4cyl. Modern steel ext/grey int 12,000 miles/year x 36 month lease Top tier credit No trade-in (lease on my 2010 Civic expiring so will return to this dealer) Leased in the suburbs of Boston, MA
The deal was $260/month, with absolutely zero down (except for my first month's payment). All lease inception fees were rolled into the deal, including bank fee, document fee, and even state registration fees. This was well below invoice, and I pressed the dealer on how he could offer this.
He said that they were able to use the $500 Flexcash (which I had seen mentioned on these forums), but that in addition, the dealership was willing to take an $850 loss on this deal. They make up for it by leveraging the profit they made from people who get bad deals throughout the month, so that the can compete for "aggressive deals" such as mine, which allows them to hit inventory quotas for the end of the month.
Some figures from this deal that I was quoted, which I thought would be helpful for others: MSRP: $26,195 Invoice: $24,037 Residual Value = 61% Adjusted capitalized cost: $23,276 April Money Factor = 0.00107 Honda Bank fee = $595 This dealers document fee = $329 Mass reg fees: $123
So what do you guys think? I was shocked when I was offered this deal, as I was assuming I would have to pay around 300-310/month (holding all else equal, zero down, no fees whatsoever at signing).
You got a good deal but the dealer is definitely making a profit on the deal. Take a look at the lease calculator at Weymouthhonda.com. The residual is now 60% but their price is $261 including MA tax with $625 due at signing, so if this deal was done in Apr with a 61% residual and you put the difference between $625 and $261 into the lease, the payment would have been around $264, and that's without any haggling.
If the dealer sold it for 850 below invoice, they still made 250-500 bucks on the deal lol. Its amazing, even when people have access to forums such as this dealers still make $$.
Comments
Life would be much easier if I could pay straight cash lol
In a lease you are not the owner of the car (no title) so "selling" to a private individual is doable but convoluted: as Edmunds writes in "3-ways-to-turn-your-lease-into-cash.html", "Sell your leased car to a neighbor, friend or family member. This method requires a bit of trust, so it helps to sell your car to someone you know."
Good luck with this one if the party comes in through your craigslist ad, especially with a draft from a Nigerian bank........
You're friend with the Camry did VERY well, the same approach I'm doing myself, but working with dealers - whether through trade/purchase or outright purchase by dealer - I would suggest is not what would be commonly understood as "sell(ing) the car yourself".
It's already been recommended to the OP emaree that they get a quote from qbrozen over in the Trade-In Value forum here on Edmunds, and your suggested approach is the way to go.
It's up to them now....... maybe they'll report back in a week or two?
Even more thanks for the flex-cash alert!
Not meaning to be greedy, but I'd like to learn the "flex" amount for the CRV, too. I'll post in the relevant forum.
Thank you once again.
EX-L: $325 total cash due at signing, $298.17 plus tax
EX-L V6: $355 total due at signing, $325.69 plus tax
Always like to vet deals here before going to dealership. Will decide between the two based on test drives.
2k down to inlcude all fees (destination/frieght, tax, tags, + first month of lease).
Dealer will pay the final two payments of my currrent lease (about $245 a month).
splash guard, door gaurd, wheel locks, floor mats.
My payment will be $288 per month.
Does anyone know the April and/or May MF and residual numbers on a EX-L V6 w/Nav Accord for 36 months & 12k/year? Please assume best possible credit rating.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Kean
I did more reading on the web and see where this is possible. Can't do it with my lease financed through the manufacturer/dealer but I'll look into a CU/bank maybe the next time round.
Thanx again!
Hope this helps?
You know since you read prior posts in the forum that it's tough to say without more detailed numbers to punch into a spreadsheet, the region you're located, the manner with which taxes are levied, etc.
Anyway Dude, enjoy your test drives! Let us know how the 4 Cyl compares with the V6!
From your message, I take it that with or without NAV, the residual is the same.
--
badger1994
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
CAR- 21949 ( i got it down this much)
DESTINATION- 790
NYC TAX- 2018
DMV- 240
TOTAL 24997
Now after calculations i am looking at 220 a month ( without taxes on lease)
36 months 12k miles
Is there any room ?
If you were in my State which simply taxes the monthly payment and with a base payment of $220 and with the Honda provided residual and MF incorporated in the lease, I would sign 'n enjoy.
Just my state-based opinion................
Assuming that's accurate, the NAV is a very expensive option. (2% lower residual on a roughly $2k more expensive car.)
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Question does honda offer 20,000 mile leases and is it cost effective or am I better getting the 15k lease and just paying the .15 a mile I go over.
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
I saw the lease special for $2500 down and $250 a month not including Tax, Title, Dealer options etc here in Houston Texas (8.25 % tax rate)
I had a 2001 Dodge Durango for Trade In
Here's a breakdown of my lease deal.
2013 Honda Accord LX CVT Auto
Propack and Tint added ($735) after MSRP of $23270 for total of $24005
Advertised: $249 per month for 36 months (not including Tax, Title and Dealer Options, etc...), $2,499 cash due at signing
My Deal (with a $1500 Trade In and $3000 cash down payment)
Gross Cap Cost $26630
Cap Cost Reduction 4250
Adjusted Cap Cost $22379
Residual $14194
Depreciation $8184
Rent Charge $ 1408
Total of Base Payments $9593
Lease Payments 36
Money Factor .00107 (The finance manager told me this after I called him back)
Base Monthly Payment including Tax $266
I can't help but think I got screwed somehow in this deal. But maybe I'm just overreacting. I called the dealer and they gave me an itemized listing of the fees which totaled $2753 (which included the 735 for the dealer options and a sales tax of $1464 and various other fees) on top of the MSRP and not including the acquisition fee of $595. He said in order to get the special price of $250, I would have had to put down $5242 but the lease terms limit it to %20 of the total cost of the vehicle.
Please put my mind at ease and help me make sense of this and tell me I didn't get hosed..It seemed fine until I got home and started mulling over the numbers.
It looks like I basically got MSRP with an addon package of $735...I'm happy with that based on my payment, I just don't want to think I tossed my old vehicle at them and they marked up the Cap Cost or something funny...I've been on countless numbers of online calculators and nothing is making sense to me.
Thank you to anyone who can help put my mind at ease!!!
I don't get it?...from what I read online, most people said that Honda dealers don't budge on prices for their leases..
Should I have gotten him to give me a quote below MSRP in an email before I went there? Or not gone at all and done all the quoting by email?
The showroom setting really screws me up...I get nervous, flustered and hate the experience...
I went into it knowing I would have to pay for taxes etc...so when the payment came to $16 over 250 it seemed okay, but then I got online and found how people were putting down less than I was and still getting less or lower payments.
Did this dealership basically steal my Trade In vehicle - can I bring a lawsuit against them or is it just my fault for not trying to get them below MSRP.
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
One piece of information that you did not tell us. They gave you $1,500 on your Durango for trade, how much did you owe on it?
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I have learned my lesson...albeit the hard way...I do LOVE the car...thank you again and look forward to learning more from you guru's here!!!
Yeah, I know what you mean: compared to typical forums I've come across on the web, this one is rather an odd one in trying to follow threads.
Personally, I'm truly sorry we weren't able to help you help you out beforehand! You're so congenial and you're GREAT with replying to each response with an acknowledgement and thank you. You're making it a really, REALLY friendly forum
It's nice to see this where, and especially relative to HOST Car_man's assistance, there is nary the follow-up for any help provided.
I personally hope we'll see your contributions for others in the future!
Next time......you will be well prepared!
You can always, ALWAYS negotiate the "selling price" of the car. Regardless or purchase or lease. Start at the INVOICE and work up.......never down off MSRP.
A great deal is $300 over invoice (then minus any dealer cash or rebates)
Watch "add ons" dealers love those......all pure profit. They saw you coming, and took you for a little ride. Just choose a different dealer next time if you do another Honda.
You can pay the acquisition fee at signing or roll it into your vehicle's capitalized cost to bake it into the payment. It's up to you, though the less that you pay at signing the better.
Honda is not specifically providing any cash incentives on leases of the 2013 Accord right now, but it does have some $500 FlexCash certificates floating around out there that can be used on leases. Try to get the dealer to use one on your deal.
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One thing I had a '10 leased Rdx base with 24k m 1 mo. remaining on lease.Any ideas if I could get some equity from it and apply that equity to a new lease.Because one Honda dealer I visited that said I have nothing from it but Kbb, edmunds trade in value is almost $22k. And need your opinion if it is favorable to buyout the Rdx after the lease for $18664+tax or get a new lease honda accord exl.Thank you again.
I am in the market for an Accord EX Sedan with the manual transmission (really disappointed the Sport doesnt have a sunroof!). Anyways, when will the May money factor and specials be known? Trying to figure out if I should try for something at the end of this month or wait till May.
Also, can anyone know the residual value for an EX Sedan w/ manual transmission for a 3 years lease at 12,000 miles per year? I am in the Midwest (Nebraska), if that matters.
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Glad to have found this group and its helpful membership.
I will be in the market in another year and plan on keeping up this time and posting my experience.
This place (and people) has definitely softened the blow of my hasty decision making and really has armed me with a lot of great knowledge and experience to proceed positively from here and really look at this as a great learning experience I can pass on.
Thank you again!!!
This is my first post to this forum, so I have to start by saying thank you to everyone, as I have used it for many years to research all my prior leases. I think I just got a really great deal on my new Accord that I wanted to pass along to everyone. Boy does shopping around at the end of the month help!!
2013 Honda Accord EX Sedan, CVT transmission, 4cyl. Modern steel ext/grey int
12,000 miles/year x 36 month lease
Top tier credit
No trade-in (lease on my 2010 Civic expiring so will return to this dealer)
Leased in the suburbs of Boston, MA
The deal was $260/month, with absolutely zero down (except for my first month's payment). All lease inception fees were rolled into the deal, including bank fee, document fee, and even state registration fees. This was well below invoice, and I pressed the dealer on how he could offer this.
He said that they were able to use the $500 Flexcash (which I had seen mentioned on these forums), but that in addition, the dealership was willing to take an $850 loss on this deal. They make up for it by leveraging the profit they made from people who get bad deals throughout the month, so that the can compete for "aggressive deals" such as mine, which allows them to hit inventory quotas for the end of the month.
Some figures from this deal that I was quoted, which I thought would be helpful for others:
MSRP: $26,195
Invoice: $24,037
Residual Value = 61%
Adjusted capitalized cost: $23,276
April Money Factor = 0.00107
Honda Bank fee = $595
This dealers document fee = $329
Mass reg fees: $123
So what do you guys think? I was shocked when I was offered this deal, as I was assuming I would have to pay around 300-310/month (holding all else equal, zero down, no fees whatsoever at signing).
Thanks and good luck!
Could you please provide May numbers for the 2013 Accord LX CVT.
12k Miles
36 Months
Is the money factor for a sign and drive different than a first and fees lease again?
Any cash incentives?
Thanks for your time.
Take a look at the lease calculator at Weymouthhonda.com. The residual is now 60% but their price is $261 including MA tax with $625 due at signing, so if this deal was done in Apr with a 61% residual and you put the difference between $625 and $261 into the lease, the payment would have been around $264, and that's without any haggling.