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Don't really care which trim level. Just looking for the lowest MF and highest Res%. In other words the lowest payment for the most car!
From what I've been reading here over the last week is does not seem that Honda is being very aggressive on the Accord leases this year. Got my wife an 07 SE V6 in April of last year for $185+T 24/15k with only license up front.
Thanks
gpsac
I think the lowest MF i've seen for the Accord is .002, which is not all that great.
As far as the most cluck for the buck, the Nav and leather equipped cars generally have a lower residual than the ones without these features. So avoiding those will save money for sure.
Most folks want what they want, if they don't car about leather or a moon roof then maybe an LX will do. If they have to have features that are in a more expensive trim line then they pay up. Very few folks would accept ANY trim line just based in it "being a good deal"
Dennis
"Very few folks would accept ANY trim line just based in it being a good deal? Dodge?" Are you like some recently retired mortgage co or bank ceo?
Heck, I'd take a Dodge if they were giving them away! Even if it were a guzzling Hemi I'm sure it would still more than make up for what most monthly payments are. (Actually, the 08 Accord does look a lot like a Sebring or Avenger.... maybe they're giving those away?)
This is an informational forum on Honda Accord leasing. We like Honda's. We like their historically stable resale value and reliability. We want information. Personal leasing experiences, dealer ad info from around the country, residual info and rates. We want to learn how to calculate our own leases.
Leasing numbers change frequently and subsidy dollars go where needed. Which is why sometimes a higher trim line may actually lease for less than a lower trim. Or a V6 less than a four. Sometimes they don't. Why do you think so many are leasing in the first place? Because they discovered they can get more car for their budget! If AHFC dropped the LX V6 rate tomorrow to .0007 you think some people who may have been thinking EX would re-think? Or some might opt for an EX Civic over and LX Accord or vice versa?
Sorry I disagree that "very few folks" consider cost in their vehicle selection process.
Car_man
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People do consider the price, but almost to the point that when leasing, they do not realize that you can get a better trim for a similar or same payment somewhere else. Getting the best bang for you buck. Going to one dealer and seeing their deal, does not mean its speaks for all other dealers.
You tell them the payment you want, and more than likely they will point you to a trim that is lower than you want. Simply think realistically and practical, and go to a trim that you like and than work from that model. That way you can get what you want and perhaps get a similar payment for that car as the lower model one. Perhaps you can get a deal on the trim you want, than go to another dealer, you may find though, that perhaps you cannot afford it and could go down a trim, but atleast then you can make that choice for your budget.
Just be careful, there are dealers that would love to take advantage of you, just like the $36k Accord on Ebay, loaded with overpriced accessories. Read all the find print. They even have a $499 doc fee.
Be careful!
That is way too much?. How come I can lease an Altima with leather for the same price?
I really want a Honda but that seems like a lot of money. What does anyone suggest?
$0 down
First payment due at signing andplate.
You need:
Publicly Available Items
MSRP
Invoice Price
Current Manufacturer Residual
Current Manufacturer Lease Factor
Items particular to your deal
Selling price (in these car buying times you should be around invoice on most cars)
Lease factor dealer is quoting you (dealers can mark this up)
Dealer doc fees
Local sales tax, and whether you pay up front or every month.
Out of pocket money up front.
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That is exactly right - but mostly you just need the cost of the car with destination and dealer fee included as compared to invoice less known dealer incentives. Very few Honda dealers mark up the lease money factors, but it does help to know them so you can double check to be sure. The title, tags, and taxes are what they are and any dealer (or AHFC) will charge the same.
So if you get a good price on the car with fees included and get the lease buy rate, then you have a good as it gets lease deal. If the AHFC rates are high, then it is just so so, if the rates are really low then it is red hot. You can't control the taxes, the lease rates, the residual, or anything else. The only thing you can control is the price you pay and when you pay it. If you negotiate a great deal on the price but the rates are high, then wait for better rates if you want a great deal on the total lease.
Everyone should learn what their local tax and title and tag fees are and how they work. Everyone should get a lease calc (or make one in Excel) and learn how to figure lease payments for themselves. These are not 100% needed since most Honda dealers are honest, but this is not rocket science so excuse for not learning how to run your own numbers. I don't sign ANY lease deal unless I see where every penny goes - no exceptions.
Dennis
Send in email quotes, several of them, that way you'll get an average of what dealers are offering, then work from there.
Work on sale price- Look around here, and you'll see what people are getting.
Lease deal- offer your trade, get good appraisal. Remember they will try to pull all kinds of tricks to get there monies worth. So stay solid on sale price, and your trade in, but since its an SUV, it might be a little sticky. You might have some negative money owed on the next deal.
For your payment, you can get an Acura or Honda, and possibly be paying less then your $450. on an Accord you can get a fully loaded Accord for less than that.
Then when that is done, tell them you are trading that lease in.
Remember they will look at your trade in versus your payoff on the old lease..
Good Luck, follow the steps and you'll do fine, if you don't feel right at a dealer, then move to another, other dealers are willing to help.
You can simply turn your truck in and walk away, this is a bad idea since you will get a whopping big bill for unpaid principle and more. Read your lease contract (which you should have done before you signed it) - on the back will be what happens if you terminate your lease early. I don't know who your lease is with - NMAC or 3rd party lease bank - so I have no idea what those terms may be, but in most cases they are not good. Usually what they do is sell the vehicle at auction and you pay the difference between what it brings and what they calculate it should bring based on unpaid principle and residual. Do think it is going to get a good price? No way, everyone else is doing just what you are doing and dumping the guzzlers so you could be stuck with thousands in charges.
You can go to one of those lease trade or lease swap sites and see if your lease bank allows someone else to take over your lease. If they do and your lease bank releases you from all liability then you can try to find someone to take over your lease. Again, with everyone else trying to get out from under their guzzlers too this may be hard to do and you may have to offer thousands in incentives to get someone to take it over.
You can try to get a dealer to buy your vehicle. Get the current buy out price (less tax) from the lease bank and compare it to Edmunds, KBB, NADA, etc trade values and see what that looks like. Then take it to places like CarMax and DriversWay and see what (if anything) they offer for it. Again, everyone else is doing the same thing and THEY have lots full of guzzlers that they can't sell so don't be surprised if they are not interested or make you a really low offer.
You can trade it in. As was suggested, make a deal for invoice or under on a new car and then try to stick them with the trade. Again you need to know the pay off on the lease to compare with the dealer's offer. Anything under pay off has to come out of your pocket or has to be rolled into your new deal (bad idea). Again, everyone else is doing the same thing so the dealer is not likely to offer much for your trade so the difference could be thousands of dollars.
You could sell it to someone else through a dealer. If you know a dealer that will handle the paperwork, you could sell it to an individual and net more (hopefully) than a trade or dealer purchase. Again, with all the guzzlers being dumping you will have hard time moving it and anything you can't get to cover the buy out comes out of your pocket and could be thousands of dollars.
So after you try all these options and come up with the one that costs you the least amount of money you need to think some more about it. If you are going to have to pay thousands to get out from under the car then you are probably better off just to keep driving it. You have about 17k miles more allowed on the lease, but you may not drive 1k per month so use your actual miles. Say your current ride gets 17mpg average and a new I4 Accord is 24. To drive the 17k miles would be 1,000 gallons of gas - at $4.20 per gallon that is $4,200 . To drive 17k miles in the I4 Accord would take 708 or $2,975 at $4.20 per. So keeping your Pathfinder compared to an I4 Accord would only cost you $1,225 (if gas is $4,20 per gallon). I would predict this will be FAR less than any other option.
So do the math and you will likely find you have to just keep driving it. Cut down on trips by consolidating them, try to car pool or take public transport, and drive in an efficient manner and you could cut that $1,225 down by a good bit.
In the panic to dump SUVs and trucks the phrase that keeps coming up is "People are spending thousands to save hundreds" - do the math and don't be one of these people
Dennis
Price of the Vehicle: 21,319.00
Lease 36 Months
Payment: 319.98
Total Out of Pocket: 482.48
Miles 12,000 a Year
Please let me know ASAP!
whats the MSRP? Is your listed price the sale price?
whats the residual value quoted?
whats the money factor?
since your out of pocket it so little, it looks like a bulk of the fees is being rolled into your lease loan. That is generally a good idea if the money factor is low. (multiply the money factor by 2400 to get the interest rate).
You can use a lease formula/calculator to figure out the numbers to make sure the deal is legitimate.
BUT, if you can get the car at invoice, it will save you $18/month.
Still, if you are in Southern California, check newspaper AD ( no gimmicks ) for super deals. I got my EXL on such a deal. If your LXP has the same discount as mine, the payment would be around $240 with the same outdoor amount.
Would you mind looking up the July MF and residual % for the following car:
2008 Accord Sedan EX-L, 4cyl, auto, no nav
36 months
15K/year
Thanks!
MSRP 22830 (LX-P Auto)
Negotiated price $20285 ($200 over invoice)
Delivery $670
Lease acquisition fee $500
Money factor .0020
Residual 61 %
Term 36 monthsith 10% tax is $307 $279 + $27.90 tax
Is this as good as it gets? No OTD $$ at all
JP the Hubman
Several dealers (Dallas, Texas) have told me that their incentives/rebates expire on July 7th. Do you know what the new MF and residual numbers are for the following?
2008 Honda Accord LX (4 cyl. auto.)
36 mo. lease
15K miles
Thanks for your help. The forum helped me get a great lease on a Nissan Altima!
texaslawkid
p.s. If anyone has gotten a great deal leasing an LX in Dallas recently, please reply.
Car_man
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Car_man
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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
Car_man
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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum
Would the money factor and residual be the same if I added Navi to the same exact car as you quoted below.
Here you go, airkilroy. Honda Finance's new July buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2008 Honda Accord Sedan EX-L 4-cylinder without Navigation with 15,000 miles per year are .00186 and 57%, respectively.
Thanks!
What is Honda Finance's current buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2008 Honda Accord Coupe EX-L with 12,000 miles per year? Thanks.
I really appreciate any help yyou can give!
Thanks!!
My payoff qoute on the Civic is $17000, monthly payment is $250
If i go get the accord, the payment would be at around $300, w/ about $500 drvive off.
People will ask why, here is some feedback from my heart.
assuming $4.50 gas price
My wife drives her Minivan for around 1200miles a month, gas is around $270.00(20mpg avg)
i am driving my Civic for 1000miles a month, gas is around $148.50 (33mpg avg)
Total monthly Gas price $418.50
she doesn't drive stick and even if she learn, she still doesn't want to move the babies in and out from the civic's back seat (3yr old and 1yr old)
My plan is to trade my Civic w/ a 4dr accord 4cyl, then, we'll switch cars.
Here is my ancipated outcome
accord 1200miles a month at 25mpg $216.00
my sienna 1000miles a month at 20mpg $225.00
Gas price will become $441.00
Yes, gas price is higher (about $1 a day, and cost for leasing the accord would be another dollar of 2 a day) but i'll have some flexibility such as
1. my wife and i both can drive both cars
2. we can use the accord for long trip from time to time (Civic is really not a good candidate for long trip when you have those huge car seats at the back)
Other thoughts:
1. I might be able to make some $300 by selling the Civic. Yes, someone kinda agree to pay $17300 on my Civic which only has 6k miles on. This is basically the reason why i would start this plan. Local carmax are selling the 08 Civic for around $20k w/ the same milage.
2. people will usually find excuses to switch for new cars from time to time. I think lots of SUV owners are thinking the same way when they tried to downsize. Because most of them don't consider the sudden hit in depreciation when they tried to dump their SUV. $1~2grands can buy A LOT OF GAS.
So, any comments? Should i do it and get some peace of mind.
If you do this, I would attempt to sell the car, not trade, as you will most always either break even or go under, so it is all up to you. Remember you will be starting all over again, with a loan or contact. That is always the bummer of signing that dotted line, its like wow, another 3 years, I am stuck with this car, I better like it!
I think your justified to think you should do this. You will get more use for your car.It think if you can get a "practical deal" than do it, but if not, than keep your civic. It is a rough market out there, no matter what car you drive.
1. because the national special financing for the Civic just ended a couple days ago and
2. the used car market for the 06 up Civic (or practically any Civics) is way better when inventory is short on new one (local Carmax are marking up the Civics for top dollars and inventory for used Civics are pretty low)
3. I think it's good to sell when demand is high (or i should say relatively higher)
Other things i am considering is that most local dealers are pretty overstocked with the accord when Toyota tried to be very aggressively dumping their Camrys to catch up the lost sales.
RE: upside down, i agree with you but i only put 1st payment and license fee at lease signing ($4xx.00) but what i will be losing is the registration for the remaining 5months. And I don't think i will sell if i cannot break even.
Local carmax are selling compariable car for $21.5k, i don't see why i couldn't shoot for $17000 (which is my current payoff amount). But i will keep you all posted.
RE: signing another 3yrs contracts, i would worry less about it because i've been leasing cars for a while and most of the time, i will get out of the lease before lease end. I had a 4runner where i make $200 by trading it in at carmax after 19months of leasing it (36mo term) and i used some lease transfer service to get rid of my 05 C-class after 18months (time to replace all those sports tires at that moment, so, instead of paying $1000 for a set of new tires, I transfer it out and leased my current minivan)
It's all about timing and the deal you got in the first place, this site does has a lot of great info.
Let me go wash my Civic and bring it to Carmax and see how it turns out, will keep you all posted.
P.S. if i couldn't get the accord at that price, i can always go w/ a Camry for even lower payment. (did i mention that Toyota is easier to work with on lease transfer but Honda doesn't allow it?) Last thing is that TFS (Toyota Financial Services) doesn't need 100k/300k full coverage insurance. While most other banks require it.
Thank you all
This is the best advertised deal I have seen so far.
2008 EX V6 ( no leather )
MSRP: 26,600
Total Due at signing: 3,800 ( no security deposit though )
24 Month lease, 12k/year
$119/month + taxes!
The purchase price on the car must be 2000+ under invoice.
No gimmick, my friend just leased one. I wouldn't name the dealer, please heck Saturday newspaper to find the dealer yourself.
The monthly payment is low, but it usually will be if you're paying that kind of cap reduction.
The above deal probably has 2,600 as downpayment ( the remaining 1200 covers bank fees, tag fees, 1st month, etc. ).
If I remove the 2,600 downpayment to make it a ZERO downpayment lease, and keep everything else the same, the monthly payment will be $229/month. It's a super low payment for a 26.6k car.
Except that any leasing expert will tell you not to put any money down on a lease (exluding TTL & fees). Insurance companies will only payoff the leasing company, not you if the car is totaled.
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2008 G37 Sedan
2010 G37 Coupe
2012 G37 Sedan
2014 Q50 RWD
2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
By comparison, Honda's official lease deal is $219/month, with 2600 due at signing, for a LX. Mine is an EX V6 ( a 5k more expansive car), $119/month with 3800 due. There is just no comparison. My deal probably beats Honda's by at least $100/month. And probably beats the best deals I saw here by $50/month.
I didnt buy this car. Just FYI whoever has the dicerning eyes to jump to good opportunities. Oftentimes one has to make his own judgements and couldnt just follow expert advices by exactly the words. Otherwise the opportunity will slip away before you know it.
You are correct that leasing a Accord V6 for mid $200s with just $1200 is not a bad deal, at first glanc anyway. However, to know for sure if the deal is sound, you have to know the more than that. MF, Residual, Sale Price, MSRP, what fees are imposed, any disposition fees?, is GAP coverage included?, any damage waivers? is this an open-ended lease or closed-ended? Is the lease financed through AHFC? 3rd party bank? etc...
Throwing around down payments and monthly payments is what dealers do to confuse the general public. To reel them into their showrooms. I've been shafted before, I lived, I learned and I got informed. So you gotta know the details. I mean I could easily put 6k down and have a sub $100 monthly payment on Accord V6 too, but is smart to do so? Specially in the event of theft and total-loss accident? Consumers need to know these things if they don't want to get screwed down the road.
Also, you posted the deal on a public forum, I have no reason to ignore it. As a matter of fact, I have every reason to question it and expose any flaws it may have so people are aware of it. If you don't like people critiquing your posts, then maybe you shouldn't post stuff like this.
BTW, I said in my ogriginal post it's no gimmick, straightforward Honda lease. And I calculated the purchase price must be 2000+ under invoice, given Honda's standard Residual and Money Factor. I even mensioned there is no security deposit in the 3800.
We don't need to pursuade each other. I just felt the deal was so obviously superior, it's just a waste of time arguing it - again, IMHO.
Let's say you can choose to put an extra down payment of $2400, but lower your monthly bill by $200/month, for 24 months, would you do it? Absolutely, that's a saving of $2400 in 2 years, even though you run the slim slim risk of totallying your car.
OK, maybe you can't save 200/month, how about 180? Any saving above $100/month is your profit.
I figured a reasonable good shopper can get an EX V6 for 24 month, $300/month, with 1400 out the door.
Mine is 3800 out th door for $120/month. So the extra $2400 saved me $180/month for the next 24 months.
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2017 Q60 3.0t RWD
2018 QX60 RWD
kingpcgeek and bvdj84 have valid points and very sound suggestions. That is how leasing should be.
I am trying to work out a 36 month lease deal on an Accord EXL-V6 with Nav. My mileage will be approx 12000 a year. I was wondering if you knew the current lease factors and residuals for that model. I live in a small town in North Carolina and the dealer in the town I live in is not very helpful. The purchase price he gave me is list for that model which is $30,260.
Thank you for any help you can give.
WT
July Lease numbers for EX-L V6 with NAV:
24/12 - 65% Residual, Money Factor 0.00186 (4.46%) (Top Tier Credit)
36/12 - 56%, 0.00186
36/15 - 54%, 0.00186
Thanks for you help
2008 Accord Sedan EX V6 Featured Special Lease
$249.00 per month for 36 months. $2,699.00 total
due at signing.
But when you click on the link you get this offer:
2008 Accord Sedan EX V6 Featured Special Lease
$279.00 per month for 36 months. $2,899.00 total due at signing.
Did we just have a mid-month lease factor/price correction by Honda that has not been updated on the web, or did Mr. Opportunity have typos in his email?
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