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Comments
MSRP: 280458
Negotiated Price (incl. $595 acquisition fee): 26546
Down Payment: $500 loyalty rebate + First payment of $341
Payment: $341 Includes tax ($29/mo.) and license ($467)
So far I'm happy very happy with the car.
Using $341 because it is your final out of pocket monthly cost including all tax, fees, etc...
$341*36 (35 monthly payments+down payment of $341)=$12,276
--$500 loyalty rebate was money you did not have to put out, it was "gifted" by Hyundai so it is not used in the calculation...
$12276/$28045 (true MSRP not negotiated-and assuming that is your number-extra digit in your post)=0.4377
Enjoy your limited, I only have the Turbo SE, in hindsight wish I had gotten the limited, but I am paying more than $50 less.
I am not basing it on residual values at all. I am basing it on pure out of pocket cash vs. the value of the car. If we compare the entire amount that will be paid over the term of the lease (monthly payments+down payments) and divide that by the value of the car (MSRP) we can compare any car of any value and any make or model. By doing this we can eliminate the differences between Turbo, Hybrid, GLS and their respective packages because as packages or levels of cars go up or down, their MSRPs do equally and respectively.
It comes down to the ratio:
Out of pocket cash/MSRP
The deal you saw has a ratio of 0.482; this is because you are paying ~$9350 over the term of the lease into car and the car is worth at delivery $19395. So you are paying roughly 48.2% of the cars value in a 36 month lease.
In my situation as I dictated a few weeks ago I am paying over the full term of my 36 month lease $10,386 ($288.50*36). The MSRP (value of my car at delivery) was $25,570. I have a SE Turbo with a hand full of add ons and tire/rim coverage. So my calculation ($10,386/$25,570)=0.4061; this means I am paying roughly 40.61% of the cars value in a 36 month lease.
The less you pay percentage wise, the better off your lease is. I hope that sheds some light into my calculations and why that advertised price is not as good as it may seem.
Bonus fact:
if the residual on the vehicle you are quoting is say 57% (making this number up) then you can roughly gauge (very roughly) the value here by adding 57% to your 48.2%=105.2%
where as if the residual value on the turbo is say a little higher...59% (again made up, unsure of my value) then you can gauge it as 59%+40.61%=99.61%
Which deal/car would you choose?
i look at it from the total cost of ownership - total paid over the 36 months (divided by 36 if you wish). if that comes out to ###, and that's equal to or less than what i would have "netted" upon a straight purchase and sale (or trade in) 36 months later, i've done ok going with the lease. the bonuses of a lease is being able to turn it in and walking away from a used car that is at the end or approaching the end of its warranty period (yes, i know hyundais have longer warranties). this is a hyundai and at this point i'm slightly skeptical about its potential resale value. if i end up loving the car, i still at the end of the lease term i would have no choice but to turn it in and deal for a new car since the residual would be so high. i do'nt think this would be a problem for me
Thanks,
15,000 miles a yr 36 months residual 58%. 59% on 12,000 miles
Actual Residual used: $16,205.20
Money factor .000308 or .74%
Vehicle price: $24,049.70/ MSRP $27,660
Gross Cap (includes $595/ $599 Acquisition and dealer fee): $25,243
Net Cap w/ $179.35 reduction: $25,064.35
Tag, registration, misc. tax/ fees: $320.65
Monthly payment: Lease payment $258.88 + FL 7% tax $18.12= $277
Total out of pocket $777 includes first month
Disposition fee: $400
Hope this helps all of you trying to close that deal before months end. The Sonata SE2.0T is an awesome car and a great deal for the money. I used AOL and Truecar to contact dealers and it knocked $2300 off of INVOICE before negotiations even started. The dealer wanted to add his misc. $999 DIO options, but I simply told them you installed them and I don't need them.
Best of luck...
The $30 or which ever extra it would be to go to a different model affects both the MSRP and the monthly payment. The question is, which does it affect more? If it increases the MSRP more than it increases the monthly payment proportionally, the power of your money goes further. Conversely, if the monthly payment increases more compared to the MSRP (talking percentages, ratios) then the value of your dollar goes down.
The higher your power of money, the further your dollar goes, and the more you get for it. This is inversely proportional to the ratio I calculate, the lower the value, the more power your dollar has in the lease.
The numbers I am posting are not if a person feels this is more value or not, it is whether someone paying is getting more bang for their buck or more for each of their dollars. It ignores individual person's values, and just calculates in raw dollars which is a better deal.
If you or anyone values certain packages more or less than what a dealer charges, it is your choice to get them or not, however, the values tell if your dollar (your total lease cash outlay), compared to someone else's dollar (total lease cash outlay) is better or worse.
Your value comes to 0.393. Lowest I have seen so far. Good deal.
in a similar way, if you can get a 5,000 sq ft house at $90 per sq ft, or a 3,000 sq ft house at $100 per, is the 5,000 sq ft house necessarily the better deal? more bang for the buck?
$8474.40/$22,425=0.378
Very good lease. Enjoy it, step up to the Turbo next time
Because I mostly lease, I have the option of many cars as I can simply return them at the end rather than buying the car when you have to then really think hard about your car as an investment vs. enjoyment and see which reigns more in your mind.
As the car is for your mother, the Turbo is definitely not for her. Although it is not the fastest car I have owned/driven by a long shot, it most certainly the fastest sleeper car. Technically the sonata (gls, hybrid, or turbo) is a 4-door midsize sedan. That is how the insurances classify it, so they all have the same value for rates. However, the turbo has an engine to speak of, and most drivers who do not know about it, cannot believe the speed and power. It has great bang, literally, for the buck.
I recently destroyed a modded civic. It is a civic though, only so much you can do with it, but he initiated the race, and after I smoked him, he sped off after I slowed down...much to my chagrin he was pulled over about a mile ahead
The car comes with key features standard (bluetooth, ipod port, cloth/leather seats). And I think that is what appeals to many people who just want a car to get them from point A to point B without too many frills that drive up costs. I personally would not buy a car with hub caps (GLS), and although the GDI 2.4 I-4 is peppy, it would not do coming from a V6.
Another huge selling point for me on the Turbo is that it takes regular gas, and gets real world 23/31 for me. All that and if you want to get up and go, you can, very quickly, the turbo is a twin-scroll so where conventional turbos give you the big boost in the top end, this gives you a good boost off the line, but a better boost on the top end, the passing power is quite remarkable.
For sippy gas, power when you want it for around $26K this could be the car for you. I would say look at the Fusion Sport ($33K) or V6 ($28K) as it is also peppy. I came from a Fusion V6 SEL AWD to the Sonata Turbo. The sonata is a little bit faster, but is 5mpg better in the city and 10mpg better on the hwy.
Happy hunting...do not buy the elantra if you are coming from the truck, you will not be happy, unless you do end up keeping the truck after all :shades:
I like the Kia optima too. It looks like price and mpg the koreans are hitting the sweet spots for me. Honda and toyota are more money and bland. American cars (my preference) are a close second but again for the price and standard options I don't think you can beat the Hyundai.
The Hemi is quick, but its more the power to weight ratio, but they are in two separate classes, you really cannot compare them.
first thank you for your help, i am going to the dealer on Saturday to try to negotiate a deal.
Your calculations confuse me a little bit, bec i've seen you indlude tax/title/fees at times and other times not, Same for taxes, sometimes you have included them and others not.
Now i will be trying to work your formula for any "deal" i get to figure out if it is good or not.
Assuming my MSRP for a Sonata SE with NAV, is 26600.
Plz show me your formula, and wether you include taxes and fees in ur calculation and do you divide the total paid over MSRP or negotiated price.
Again thank you.
1. if i am set on turning the car in at the end of the lease,
2. is $200/mo + fees at sign-in a good deal
on this trim, and this trim only, under these terms. This at least seems more favorable than what the national hyundai program is offering.
However if you only want to know if your deal is better than the national deal, if your fees at sign in are lower than $2399 then it is a better deal.
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I am sorry for the confusion in the calculation. The reason I use tax, fees, etc sometimes and sometimes I do not is because many times peoples prices posted are already all inclusive. It depends on if it is walk out the door price paid per month, or if people are speculating and their tax, fees, etc have not been calculated in. In any event, I am more than happy to help. Lets walk through a few calculations with your proposed vehicle: MSRP: $26,660.
In my opinion, a good lease will end up being in the 40-42% of MSRP range when all payments, fees, taxes, etc are all said and done. So...
$26,660*.40=$10,664 (this is 40% of the MSRP)
Divide your total paid over the term which is 36 months presumably....
$10,664/36months=$296.22
So with this number ($296.22) if you put nothing down out of pocket at all, and had all the taxes, fees, registration, etc...then I would say you are getting a fantastic deal. But I did say up to 42% so if we calculate on 42%....
$26,660*.42=$11,197.20
Over a 36 month term...
$11,197.20/36=$311.03
So if you pay nothing out of pocket and have all the tax, fees, registration, etc.. rolled into your payment, if you are between $296.22-$311.03 a month I would consider your lease a good deal.
Now with these being said, you must remember that your credit can affect this number drastically. We are talking tier 1 for these numbers, at least in my experience. And as another member on the forum has pointed out, some people value certain packages/accessories different than others, but from a pure numbers perspective, this is how the power of your dollar should be in a lease.
Best of luck to you, and I hope you end up with a great lease, and this I can tell you is a great car.
If I live in LA County and I lease a car from an Orange County dealer, which sales tax do I pay on the lease ... the LA rate or the Orange rate?
I am eligible for the Plan A pricing which comes to $25441 with $250 circle cash for that trim. I am also eligible for the college grad program which further discounts the car by $400. However, I am not being offered either incentive since they say my credit report has one 30 day late payment on it they won't be able to honor the college grad discount. My FICO score is 688 and my credit history is absolutely clean apart from that 30 day late payment and I have paid off my $15000 loan from my previous car in 2.5 yrs along with thousands in credit card payments. The dealership is also not offering the Plan A pricing since the limited turbo no nav trim is very high in demand and they do not want to lose money on a deal and have people waiting to snag that car away full price.
Am I being played? Any advice would be appreciated.
But If they want you to sign and take delivery, I would make them knock an additional $400 off your overall lease out of pocket if that would make you happy. Payments would then come to $353.88.
Personally I would say something like this...."I have another offer at xxxx dealer for $353.88, I told him about our deal, and he said he would knock the $400 off the payments. If you can put me at $350 I will sign today, right now" That is providing you would actually sign for $350 today.
Good luck!
One of the local dealers here (Puente Hills, CA) is telling me that the current 36 month residual for a Sonata SE @ 15k is 55%, not 56%.
Can I get a confirmation from you on your numbers so I can call shenanigans on him?
Thanks for your continued service here.
2011 Sonata SE 2.4, 6spd AT
36 Months @ 15k per year
SE Nav & Sunroof Pkg
ECM Homelink Mirror
iPod Cable
Cargo Net
Floor Mats
MSRP: $26,350 (both Edmunds and Hyundai.com quote MSRP of $26,580, so I'm not sure where the discrepancy is until I see the window sticker)
INVOICE: $25,068 (according to Edmunds)
NEGOTIATED: $24,775
LEASE CASHBACK: $250
CAP REDUCTION: $2,220
NET CAP COST: $22,305
MONEY FACTOR: .00056
RESIDUAL: 55% (he faxed me his announcement from Hyundai for the Western Region "effective 4/1-6/30" that says 56% residual, with a note at the bottom of the page that states "for 15,000 mile leases, deduct 1% from 12K/yr residual". It's hard to argue when they provide documentation...)
As it turns out, the $250 incentive basically covers the 1% difference in residual anyway, so I'm wondering if the two things are related?
MONTHLY PMT: $260 (including crappy LA County tax of 9.75%)
DRIVE OFFS: $3,800 (including down payment, acquisition fee, cap reduction tax, license, first payment, etc)
I got offers for 24437 so far, on exaclty the same car as yours. I don't know how are Socal prices different from the rest of the nation, (i guess higher, LOL).
If you consider the posted prices on this forum it looks like you and me are not able to negotiate a good deal. I am trying to get em to go down to something closer to 24k, unsuccessfully so far.
I wish there were more users from around here who would post their prices.
let me know how you do, i'll do the same.
Can you tell me if this is a good deal? Thanks in advance.
2011 Sonata Limited with Navigation (loaded)
$2500 down 279 per month for 12,000 miles a year
289 per month for 15,000 miles a year
2011 Sonata Limited Turbo with Navigation (loaded)
$2500 down 299 per month for 12,000 miles a year
309 per month for 15,000 miles a year
All NJ taxes and fee's are included, as is the first month's payment. 35 remaining payments.
I am @
SE 2.0T
15K/year
Wheel Locks
Bumper Guard
Trunk Tray
All Weather Floor Mats
First Years Oil Changes and Tire Rotations Free
Rim and Tire Coverage Bumper to Bumper
MSRP: $25,570
Downpayment: $0
Monthly Payment: $288.50
Power of Money Calculation: 0.406 (lower is better)
To do your Power of Money Calculation Take your monthly payment ($309) multiply by the months (35) add your down payment ($2500) and divide by your MSRP
$13315/MSRP=Power of Money Calculation
-the lower the number the better
Assuming your MSRP is right around $30,000....
$13315/$30,000=0.4438
if you MSRP is higher than $30K then you are doing better, if lower than $30K worse
I'm actually not dissatisfied with the deal. I put together what I thought was a fair and reasonable below-invoice-cost offer, dropped it in an e-mail and had the details worked out 5 minutes later.
Could I have knocked another couple hundred dollars off the price? Perhaps, but it's simply not worth the extra headache of playing the haggling game while juggling 6 dealerships against each other... and, in the end, probably having to by the car from a slightly-out-of-area dealership. That becomes a headache in itself because anytime you want to take advantage of the dealership offers (free oil changes, car washes, etc) it's not worth the added miles to that dealership to do it.
I'm actually quite happy with the deal, and I think the calculations would bear it out as a solid one as well.
Thanks for the breakdown. On your monthly payment of $288.50 with 0 down, does this include nav? My MSRP is 30,050, no oil changes, rim and tire coverage must be purchased through warranty company.
Since your MSRP is slightly higher, not much at all than the 30K you are slightly worse in the calculation...
$13315/$30,050=0.443
I would say you got a good price, it could be better, but it could also be worse, I would put the screws to them to get you @$299. Good luck, let us all know how it works out!
i'm in NJ too looking at the same 2011 Limited 2.0t . Where did you get such an amazing deal on the turbo, and what kind of downpayment are we looking at for your $309/15,000 deal?