-September 2024 Special Lease Deals-
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here
2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Mazda6 Lease Questions
CarMan@Edmunds
Member Posts: 38,514
in Mazda
Hi everyone. Please use the following discussion to post any questions that you have about leasing a Mazda6. Thanks.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
0
Comments
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Could you please post the money factor and residuals for the new Mazdaspeed 6 in both the Grand and Sport models?
Thanks a lot!
just FYI....the .00211 rate is based on the very best credit and not everyone will qualify. Also there is lease cash that varies per region. In the northeast it's $2000
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Happy Holidays,
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
In your post I notice that you mentioned you are making a $3,000 down payment on this car. I always advise consumers against making any sort of down payment when leasing. I do so for two main reasons. The first is if your vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. The second main reason is that down payments on leased vehicles do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So your lease-end purchase option price for your Mazda6 would be exactly the same, regardless of whether you had put $3,000 down, or had made absolutely no down payment at all.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
I wished I head done more research on leasing, but since my mindset was to buy the car, I didn't bother.
Going over the numbers, I noticed that the car was basically 1K over MSRP.
In hind site, I was focused on getting a decent monthly payment that I didn't pay attention to the numbers before signing (didn't notice the extra $640 in doc fees as well).
question for the future:
My question:
1. Is the cap cost fixed when leasing, or is it a negotiable value.
I was given the impression that I could not negotiate the cap cost (it was fixed).
After reading this thread, I assume that is not the case.
Is the residual based on the negotiated cap cost or is it a fixed rate?
2. If I buy out the lease, do I still have to pay the rent charge or do I only have to pay the residual at the time I buy it out?
3. Is there time period to wait before I buy the lease out?
Thanks.
Is this something I can use to try to get back my doc fees?
I'm assuming we can't re-do the numbers of the car, but possibly some other concessions, like a lower price for my mp3 upgrade?
I am sorry to say that it is usually fairly expensive to get out of leases well before their scheduled end dates. In order to do so, you need to purchase the vehicle that you are currently leasing from the bank that you are leasing it through. It often turns out that it costs more to do so than your vehicle is worth on the open market. Furthermore, many banks expect consumers who end their leases early to still make all, or at least the depreciation portion of their remaining lease payments. As you can see, this can get very expensive.
You can determine approximately how much it will cost you to get out of your current lease by comparing its purchase price to its value on the open market at this time. You should place a call to the bank that you are leasing your vehicle through to find out its exact price. Once you know exactly how much money it is going to cost you to buy your leased vehicle you need to compare it to its current value on the open market. You can find out approximately what your vehicle is worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You also may want to stop by the following discussion: "Real-World Trade-In Values". One of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, frequents that discussion and he is often kind enough to give community members who give him an accurate description of their vehicles with his opinion on their value. Don't forget to check to see if you are still on the hook for your remaining lease payments. The difference between your leased vehicle's current value and how much it will cost you to buy it plus any remaining lease payments that you are obligated to pay will equal the cost of getting out of your lease right now. You may find that you are better off waiting until you are closer to the scheduled end of your lease to buy your car out or get a new one.
Chalk this up as a learning experience. You will be much better prepared the net time you lease a new vehicle.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
I’m seriously looking into leasing a 2006 Mazda6i automatic with the Grand Sport package. Before last week I hardly knew a thing about leasing. I’ve been doing research, but I still have quite a few questions that I’m sure others out there might benefit from. I would like to understand some things more clearly before I go price quote hunting and negotiating. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
For the 2006 6i Grand Sport with automatic transmission, do you have numbers on the money factor (my credit score is on the high side) and the residual value for a 36 month lease and both 1,200 and 1,500 miles per year? Are they offering 36 month leases, or do I have to go with a 39 month term?
What’s this “lease cash” you’ve been mentioning from time to time? Is it cap cost reduction off the sticker price? If so, does this mean we have a chance to negotiate beginning with a price that equals invoice price minus the "lease cash" amount? How is this different than cash-to-customer and cash-to-dealer rebates?
About the True Market Value (TMV) price, what exactly is it, or close to, among the following?:
1.Gross Cap Cost (the selling price you negotiate
with the dealer)
2. Gross Cap Cost plus any add-on fees and taxes
3.“Net Capitalized Cost” aka “Adjusted Cap Cost”, where Net Cap Cost = the Gross Cap Cost plus any add-on fees and taxes, minus any Cap Cost Reductions (down payment, trade-in, or rebates)
What I’m finding out to be really tricky is that (at least from what I understand) sometimes these miscellaneous add-on fees are already included in the Gross Cap Cost, and sometimes they’re not, so I would hope the answer is at least #2. #3 would be more useful if it involved only rebates since we consumers have no control on other consumers’ downpayments and trade-ins. Since monthly payments are going to be based on the Net Cap Cost, and not the Gross Cap Cost, our goal when negotiating is to focus on the Net Cap Cost. The TMV can be helpful, but the Cap Cost Reductions will have to be considered when negotiating if they’re not already factored into the TMV. Now according to Edmunds, the TMV for the car with the options I chose is about $900.00 less than invoice price. Does this mean that when negotiating I can reasonably set my first offer to something like $1,500 to $2,000 below invoice?
From the articles I’ve read, it seems that if you’re leasing, you have to settle for what is already in the lots. I’m satisfied with all the bells and whistles that the 6i Grand Sport comes with, except that I also want to add the remote engine starter option. Is this a big deal to add to a car that’s already in the lot in other words, would I be losing negotiating leverage if this I want this added? Would I also therefore have to wait a month or so for my ordered car to arrive? It would seem to me that the task itself of adding the remote starter is no big deal, but the repercussions of doing that may be a big deal.
Do Mazda leases include gap insurance, and is it part of the Gross Cap Cost?
What’s the best site to use to go look for quotes? (if you’re allowed to answer this one
Thanks!
The lease cash that I have mentioned, specifically $2,000 on the car that you are interested in, works just like normal customer cash would but it is compatible with Mazda's special lease program. Make sure to negotiate the lowest possible selling price that you can for this car, taking into account this lease cash into account.
Edmunds.com's True Market Value supposedly represents the selling price that consumers are paying on average for this car. If you are a savvy consumer and shop around you should be able to get the Mazda6 that you are interested in for less than its TMV price. The price that you negotiate will be your car's capitalized cost. If this car's TMV is less than dealer invoice it means that the cash incentives that are currently available on it are being taken into account.
Dealers are always more anxious to sell vehicles that they already have in stock than ones that they have to order. This is because they can provide immediate delivery of an in stock vehicle, but they risk having deals on ordered vehicles fall apart between the time that the deal is agreed to and when the car arrives. Furthermore, dealers have to pay "floorplan" interest on the vehicles that they have in inventory. The sooner they sell the cars that they have, the sooner they can stop paying interest on them.
Many banks automatically include gap insurance in their leases. There is a good chance that Mazda Credit does, but I do not know for sure that this is the case.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Just a couple more clarifications if you don't mind. I've seen conflicting information regarding how the residual value is calculated. Most sites state that it based on MSRP. A few other sites, including alg.com say it's based on the adjusted (net) cap cost. Which is the norm? If the dealer claims that the leasing company normally uses the adjusted cap cost, should I call him/her out on it? In the event that I have no intentions of buying the car after the lease expires, I would therefore want the residual value to be based on MSRP so that I can have lower monthly payments.
So that $2,000 lease cash you mentioned is the unadvertised manufacturer-to-dealer rebate? This does not include any advertised manufacturer-to-consumer rebates, right?
Thanks again for your time!
I don't believe that Mazda advertises the lease cash that I mentioned, but given the fact that you are aware of it you should be able to get the dealer that you are working with to take it into account on your deal.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
I got the dealer down to $23,500 on the NEW 2005 and when I mentioned Lease he clamed up. I know that Mazda is offering $3000 cash back on the New 2005 Mazda 6's I was think with dealer customer loyalty cash of $2,000 I could get this car for $20,000-$21,000 am I out of line. Also, I was wondering what a risidual would be on a new 2005 and the current money factor on a 36 month lease and a 39 month lease.
She is also turning in a 2003 Mazda Tribute with 30,000 miles on it.
Thanks
Also are there new rebates for March and if so what are they?
Thanks
I’ve been keeping an eye on the local dealer inventories, and I’ll be requesting price quotes very soon. With the change of month, I’m guessing that there will be different residual values, money factor and rebates (I live in the northeast) for the lease I’m considering. So if you don’t mind, can you tell me what they are this month for the same car and conditions?:
2006 Mazda6i automatic with the Grand Sport package.
39 month lease with 12,000 and 15,000 miles per year allowance.
My credit score is very good.
Another thing I had forgotten to consider is this “destination charge”. From what I’ve read, you have about zero chance in negotiating it out of the total cost. Is the destination charge already included in the sticker price, or will the final MSRP be the MSRP stated on Edmunds + the destination charge. If it is the latter, will the residual value be based on sum of the two figures or on the “base” MSRP?
Thanks again!
For 12k miles/year:
Residual calculated to 49.65% of MSRP. Money factor quoted as .002530
For 15k miles/year:
It wasn’t broken down for me as it was for 12k miles, but based on the monthly payments, I was able to calculate a residual of roughly 2% less (47.65%).
And among some the other things I want to bring up:
$3000 in lease rebates
$595 acquisition fee
$220 DMV / registration fee
According to the dealer, the $3000 in lease rebates is taxable, therefore my total tax is being calculated by my net cap cost + the 3000. Is this fair practice? I live in NY, and I don’t know if it is. Also, the dealer wants me to pay the entire tax for the 39 months up front. Again, is this some law in NY? I’d rather not have to pay that up front in the event that the car gets stolen or totaled.
I’m not thrilled about the $595 acquisition fee. Seems like an extremely excessive charge for processing paperwork. Can you tell me what the base acquisition fee is? And another $220 for the DMV / registration fee – is it reasonable? Shouldn’t this be included in the cost of the acquisition fee?
I don’t know if I should be satisfied with the quoted money factor. The dealer said that anyone with a credit rating of at least 700 gets the same money factor from MAC. With the average credit rating in America is somewhere in the 720’s, I’m not feeling so special anymore
And as you may recall, I wanted some options added onto the car. The options would amount to another $400.00 MSRP. I was given the VIN to look up on the Mazda web site, and I noticed that the sticker price that I was quoted did not include this $400.00. This is because the options are not yet installed, and they will need to add the options on at the dealership. But I can see that they are still charging me that $400 in my quote; The quoted sell price (before the $3000 rebate), appears to be what the invoice price would be (exactly) if it was based on the quoted sticker price + $400 PLUS another $500 which I’m assuming is just simply additional profit for the dealer. So by not increasing the final MSRP by $400 in the first place before figuring out the residual value, I’m losing out on over $150. May not seem like a whole lot, but once you figure they’re making money with that extra $500.00 over invoice, the ridiculous 595.00 acquisition fee, a questionable $220 DMV / registration fee, the commission paid to the dealer by the lease company, and an eventual 500.00 or so on dealer hold back, I think I still have bargaining room despite a taxed $3000 rebate.
I’ve found out that adding the options that I want would take 24 hours to install. I really don’t want to have to sign any contract until those options are installed, so am I going to have to make some sort of a “good faith” deposit on the lease until the options are installed? Is that the way it usually works? If so, what’s considered a fair deposit? Thanks!
I recently leased a Mazda 6 grande sport from a local dealer. They had to locate a car for me and we hit the end of a timelimit for a carshow rebate of $1000.
When I went to sign papers and asked to review the lease the dealer said they had to make some changes. When they gave me the lease to read the payment was $20. more a month then what I was expecting and also had been written up for 48 months instead of the agreed 36 months and 10,500 miles instead of 12,000 miles. I got the response of sorry I made a mistake but when the mileage and length were straightened out i felt the lease was still higher then what I expected. The sales manager told me the residual value of a mazda grande sport 5 door hatchback was 2% lower then the grande sport sedan.
I felt I was being lied too. Is there a difference in these
two almost exact cars or was it a trick to take my money?
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
I read a lot of your good advices.
May I ask you some Questions?
I would like to buy BMW 0655 530xi.
I thought that it is 2006 model and its MSRP is $57,720.
I want to buy this model by lease- 36 months.
Can I have a chance to know proper deal about this car?
It is not matter about down payment.
I just want to know fair deal.
HOW much do I have to pay per a month?
Please help me.
Sincerely
odc
The MSRPs that are listed here on Edmunds.com do not have vehicles' destination charges included in them. In order to figure out this car's real MSRP you will have to add the destination charge in. Vehicles' residual values are always based upon a percentage of vehicles MSRPs including the destination charge.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
Do you know what credit report BMW Financial uses?
I'm at a 670 Equifax score and I'm kinda nervous about them pulling up my credit and me not getting approved. I know Lexus would approve me since they are on a tier method and 670 is good enough for them- but BMW is very secretive about the beacons. I make $85,000 and have 100k in law school loans on deferment status. I also just paid all of my credit cards and I have not one late payment on my current car. I pay $450 a month religiously. I would like to know what kind of a chance I have to get into a BMW lease. Can you give me advice? Do you think I can get approved?
In short, I tried a few dealerships. The quotes I got were $300-500 above invoice. The residual was 47% for 15k miles per year. The best money factor I could get was .00253. The March rebates in total were $3000. I hope this helps.
Car_man
Host
Smart Shopper / Prices Paid Forums
I'm hoping someone can help me out: I am considering a 2006 Mazda 3i 4door sedan w/ touring (white/tan gut :shades: ). The local Mazda dealership (Partyka Mazda in Hamden, CT) told me about Mazda's AVP Plan (Assured Value Plan). Evidently, it's somewhat like a lease agreement but I will own the car -- it is in my name.
Does anyone know anything about this plan? What are the pros and cons?
Thanks!!
-CarCutieCT
I was wondering what the residual and money faactor is for a Mazdaspeed6 GT for a 2yr 12k lease? Thanks.
The pros are somewhat basic...sales tax is paid in full so you can trade the car in and take the sales tax advantage. Also the car is registered to you personally not the leasing company (not really an advantage). You can carry lower limits of insurance but most folks don't carry the minimums on a new car anyway...
the cons are also basic...There is lots of structure to the deal..like mileage restrictions and if you don't buy it at the end of the term (most don't) the car must go thru an inspection. Any wear and tear must be paid for by you....so if it needs tires or has some scratches your responsible.
AVP and other balloon purchases like GM smart buy, ford's red carpet option, Mazda AVP, etc.. were set up to address the vicarious liability that we have here in CT and some other state...nothing fishey about it, just be well informed before you jump into a lease or AVP.
This is the current "special" lease as reported on edmunds:
$292 Monthly Payment
24 Month Term
$2000 Down Payment
$300 Security Deposit
12000 Annual Mileage
Restrictions Lease is based on the 2006 Mazda6 sedan s Sport with AT2 and CE1 options. $2000 is combined $1500 manufacture and $500 finance cash.
Comments Dealer may contribute up to $1,000 for the $292 monthly payment lease. $2,592 is due at signing. Incentives may vary; see your local dealer for details. Tax, tags and insurance are extra.
So would I still be responsible for the $2000 down or is it cash from the manufacturer? I know I'll need the $592 at signing, but I'm confused on that $2000 --- two dealers have given me two different answers!!!
Thanks for your help!
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid Forums
Wondering if you could help me out a bit. I'm looking for the current money factor and lease residuals on the MazdaSpeed Mazda6. Are they the same as the normal mazda6? I'm interested in the #s for both 12K and 15K miles, for both 2 and 3 year lease terms.
Also, is the lease cash from the mazda6 available on the speed6?
Thanks!
Tom
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid Forums
I saw the numbers posted for the MazdaSpeed. I'm hoping they are the same.
Thanks!
Tim
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid Forum
I'm looking at a Mazda6 S 5 door Sport AT w/Bose & Moon roof. What are the current lease money factor and residual for 24 and 36 month leases with 12,000 miles per year? Also, what lease cash is available?
I went to a dealer tonight and they quoted for 24 month .0012 and 56% and for 36 month, .0021 and 48%. They were pretty shady. They started off by quoting for the 24 month, $594/month and $717/month for 36 months. UNBELIEVABLE!!
Going to another dealer tomorrow. Already received an internet quote for this car of $23,200; down $4,000 from MSRP.
Thanks for the help!
I am looking to lease either a 2006 Mazda6 Sport wagon Sport Model, or Grand Sport Model. I am curious to what the current lease factor and residual would be for both based on a 36 month, 12K miles per year lease. Both would have Auto Trans, Roof Rack, and rear bumper step plate options. Thank you!! Dan
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid Forum
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid Forum
Any details on the current money factor and residual value for 2006 Mazdaspeed6 Grand Touring? With $3,500 mfgr rebates, looking at 24 month and 36 month lease options. Thanks.
Thanks for your help,
Simon
I should have specified mileage allowance as well - I'm looking at 12,000 per year. I've received multiple quotes from dealers in the Northeast and the best info I have is the Residual on 24 mos/12K milage = 58% and the MF on the 24 mos / 12K mileage = .00113 (2.71%) - sound about right?
Simon - I was quoted 49% residual value on a 36 mos/12K mileage lease with a money factor of .0018 (4.32%) if that helps.
- 24 Months
- 4K down (including drive away costs)
- 12.5k miles per year (I don't commute so I'll be using those miles for hitting the mountains on the w/e).
Assuming good credit and I get em down to around $28k incl a few throw away options like floor/cargo mats etc.
I'm guessing I need the depreciation estimate for the '07 models and money factor for work the equations?
~ Steph
Car_man
Host
Prices Paid Forum