Honda Prelude 1997-2002

nyccarguy

welcome to the Prelude forum. The Prelude is your 2nd car, then what's your daily driver? Have you replaced or modified your prelude in any way? Are you still on the original clutch? What color is your car? It is hard to believe that the 5th generation Prelude body is now 10 years old!

stuartbonia

My other vehicle is an SUV which is what I drive all winter. No mods to the car, all original.

I used to drive the car pretty aggressively and burned out the clutch at around 60,000 miles.

10 years and going strong. My car still looks and drives great. At some point I'll have to replace it. The Nissan 350Z or the Infinity G37 would probably be the replacement. Although I think Honda makes a better car than Nissan, Honda doesn't currently have anything that would be a Prelude replacement.

nyccarguy

I don't baby the car by any means, but I definitely don't abuse the Prelude. My clutch burnt out at 52,000 miles. Cost and arm and a leg to replace due to the ATTS, I went aftermarket with a Centerforce Clutch.

My OEM exhaust rotted out after a mishap with a 1/2" thick steel plate and I replaced it with an Apexi World Sport Exhaust.

I replaced the front and rear sway bars with aftermarket ones from SUSPENSION TECHNIQUES that have truly transformed the handling characteristics of the Prelude. It Corners much more neutral.

I throw on a set of 15" Michelin Pilot Alpin PA2s on my Prelude during the winter months. It doesn't snow that much here in NY, but when it does I have NO PROBLEM!

If you're going to spend Infiniti G37 money, you really owe it to yourself to check out some of BMWs offerings. A Z4 3.0si Coupe or even the upcoming 135i Coupe.

Like I said before, I plan on keeping my car for at least another 5 years. I've got a short list that's always changing in my head of Prelude repalcements that include: The BMW 128i, MINI Cooper S, a used BMW Z4 3.0si Coupe, & A used Porsche Cayman.

timothyaw

Hello everyone, seems like this forum took a break for awhile. I'm glad your preludes are doing well. I have put mine away for the winter already. I need to drive it more, I only have 29K on my 01 SH.

Unlike the two of you, I don't plan on replacing my Prelude. I'm keeping this baby! These newer cars don't impress me much. Sure they have more horsepower etc. But they also have become HEAVIER (lower weight is everything in my book), too many government nanny controls i.e. stability control, too many accessories I personally don't use or like i.e. GPS or whatever that crap is. I love the simplicity of the Prelude. I know others like more luxury and that's fine. Newer has not always meant better for me.

Nyc, can you give me the link to website where you got your suspension parts? I would appreciate it.

dudebloke

Hi guys,

Looks like I need new tires (again). I just blew about 500 bucks on an oil pan change (oil was leaking) and Im wary of too much expense. But the snow is on its way in New England.

Any recomendations for tires?? I want to stay as close to 100/tire as possible, but need some that can handle the ice and snow for 2-3 years at least..

Thanks!!!

dudebloke

Hi lulu,
What kinda of tires did yo get? Is yours a 97 prelude? Im looking for new tires around 100 bucks. Was thinking of calling BJs (hadnt though tof costco).
Thanks!

nyccarguy

Give The Tire Rack a call!

nyccarguy

I actually bought my SUSPENSION TECHNIQUES sway bars through the speed/sound shop that did the work for me. If you want I could give you the owner's name and number and he could probably arrange to have them shipped to your door.

nyccarguy

I never knew brakes could be so exciting! After 87,500 miles, my front pads are shot, rears are well worn, and the front rotors should be changed. On Saturday I'm having front Brembo Cross Drilled Rotors with Hawk pads & Hawk pads installed on the rear.

stuartbonia

I'm not ready to replace my car yet since I am in no hurry to spend 35k+ for an extra vehicle.
As for a BMW, while they may be a reasonable car to lease, they are too expensive to own long-term. I know people who have owned BMW's and they can be expensive vehicles to repair. In addition, the local BMW dealers have an elitist attitude that I don't like.

BMW, Audi and Mercedes are out for me. There is nothing out there that I want to run and replace the Prelude with at this time. I'm always keeping an eye on what is out there.

Enjoy.

shmang

So... How is the new brake. I am guessing now the break in is over and you can truely test it.

I am on the same boat of needing to replace the pads really soon as mine has 96k already - I do a lot of highway driving, so it is easy on brakes. I myself is trying to decide which one to go - OEM or after market. The OEM gives you a balance performance and quietness while after market provide you extra stopping power. But, it all comes down to the grip of the tire and I think the OEM provide enough stopping power that ABS is needed in Prelude. So, I am not sure what I will gain by upgrade the pads from OEM.

Any thought . insight?

nyccarguy

Actually the break in for brake pads is about 500 miles, so I've still got about another week to go. From what I can tell, the pedal feels much firmer and the brakes more responsive (but they're new and the old brakes had close to 88K on them so what do I know).

I just went aftermarket because...why not? It was only a little more expensive than going OEM from the Honda dealership.

roamin

Anyone with a 5th gen Prelude try these head lightbulbs out yet? The ads claim up to 90% brighter. http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Consumer/Automotive_Lighting/Products/Headlights/- NIGHT_BREAKER/index.html

I've seen them on Powerbulbs.com and Autolamps-online.com.

530ir1150r

After personal experience, I would not install any bulb that draws more power than the standard bulb; and likely any bulb with increased wattage will have increased amperage. If you do, turn the lights off with the first wiff of rubber burning.

nyccarguy

I'm pretty impressed with the Prelude's headlights. I haven't seen the need to upgrade them at all.

They're much better than the headlights (halogen) on my wife's '07 X3.

preludemama

I'm having a problem with my car, which my mechanic thinks COULD be the computer. However, my speedometer isn't working right and I've wondered if that could have something to do with it. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. The car is acting like it has a governor on it ~~ 3500 rpm and it cuts out, sputters, and acts like it's gonna die and has nearly no power. That started before the speedometer started going out on me, happening occassionally; now speedometer doesn;t work most of the time and the bogging/sputtering/governing thing all the time....

Any suggestions???

nyccarguy

what year is your car? how many miles are on it?

I don't even want to speculate, but it seems like a major problem. It sounds like your 2 problems are not related though. I wonder if maybe a spark plug isn't firing so your car may only be running on 3 cylinders. Clogged fuel injectors? Maybe a valve spring went bad... :confuse:

There are some more technical boards here on town hall where you could ask your question.

Good Luck!

preludemama

~~ lol, sorry I posted in the '97-'02 space, didn't mean to! ~~
It's a '91 with about 248,000 on it. You're saying my 2 problems?? So it's not all related, you think, but two separate things??? Changed the spark plugs after the $300 repair attempt that failed ~ new distributor, fuel filter, etc ~~ and they were really bad. Didn't change the plug wires though, which have been replaced numerous times, but not lately. I've also changed the spark plug seals and other plug related things many times.....

Haven't ever checked the fuel injectors, although I have questioned my mechanic about them. I kept thinking it was a problem in the fuel system myself, but he didn't seem to think it was.... Would it be worth checking out???

Don't know anything about the valve spring or how to check that out. Maybe I can get someone to do it for me...

It appears as if it's going to be somewhere between difficult and impossible to find another ECU for it, cuz the numbers on it aren't even close to any I can find online. Emailing a guy at worldautoparts.com, a company that does R&R on ECU's in addition to selling remanufactured ones, and that number doesn't even come up in their system, but they can repair it for $300 if I send it to them... However, I'm not even sure that's the problem!

There must be a way to test the ECU, I just haven't found out how yet. Any ideas??

Think it would be worth changing the plug wires and cleaning/unclogging the fuel injectors first??

Thanks a million for your help. What are some of the other more technical boards you're referring to?

BTW, I had the motor rebuilt a few years ago. Don't know if that is a factor, just thought I should include that info...

shmang

It seems like it is not fuel related issue. I would suspect more on the wire - get some quality wires that meet/exceeding OEM standard. Also, when you say you changed the distributor, was that the cap& roter or the distributor itself (which cost about $350)?

If you have not done that, it is another area you need to look into. But, in order to identify the issues, an engine diagnostic would definitely help - those normally cost you only $80 and it will tell you want went wrong in the ECU.

My wife had a '95 that got low quality spark plug wires and it cause issues that we end up replacing distributor _ cap & roter, wires, plug and the ignition coil. the symptom is very similar to yours, low RPM works OK, but when step on the gas and rev up, it hesitate/dies. Sometimes it has hard time starting on the first or second try.

So, give it a shot at the engine diagnostics or you can replace the distributor and ignition coil AFTER replace spark plug wire with QUALITY ones (providing you can return them if they do not help).

Let us know how it goes.

preludemama

When you say wires, you mean plug wires? Haven't changed them yet, not since this problem at least, but have changed them several times.

I replaced the distributor. Not sure about caps and rotors, will have to check records and let you knowl Don't th ink ignition coil was replaced. Always fires right up, every time.

Don't know if I can get to nearest dealer, about 30 miles, to have diagnostic, but gonna try.

roamin

The screenshots on Powerbulbs.com of the packaging of the Osram Night Breakers claims these are 12 volt, 55 watt bulbs. So there should be no concern about over-wattage bulbs melting your headlights.

I had tried the Philips Vision Plus +50% bulbs years ago and they worked great. I am sure the night breakers will be even better.

On a related note here are some head light bulb tests/ratings:
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/212937/make_light_of_winter.html

shmang

Yes, I meant plug wires. If they are old (than 5 years) or do not match OEM spec. I will definitely change them.

As far as the diagnostics, you do not need to go to the dealership. Any firestone or inspection station / AutoZone should have the machine to do engine diagnostics - Just ask them. They normally charge $80 for it.

hemanthh

I replaced all four tires with General Altimax HPs for my '97 lude. So far they seem pretty good. hanlde rain well and been through a couple of small snow storms. Was icy this morning, but I missed te bad part of the morning so cant report on ice handling. A couple of things though.

1. Tire Rack sent them out on time, but they didnt look quite new (??) I mean, I didnt see tose new tire spiindles on the tires.. Dont know why..
2. The installer at NTB in Cambridge, MA thought these were summer tires and I should really return these and get Bridgestones. I decided to keep the Altimax..

Anyway, 83/tire from tire rack seemed a good deal and Im happy for now..

Cheers!

preludemama

Oh no, they're not more than 5 years old! I've changed them several times, and it was less than that. Now matching OEM specs, that's another matter entirely, I have no idea. Did look at them the other day and they look new, not old, worn, etc.

From what I've been told, the diagnostic machines at Auto Zone, and most (all the one's I asked) the other places around here can't diagnose mine, cuz it's too old... it's a '91. Can barely find any in junk yards around here.... Preludes in general, compatible with mine, even more rare!

Closest dealer is about 30 min north. May be able to drive, may have a friend put on hauler and take for me... just not sure...

I did get some more numbers off the car yesterday, including the Engine Family ID number. If I understand correctly, that number right there is the key to the car, it's production, the motor, every little thing about it's production....

If nothing else, I'm learning a lot! Thank you so much for your help!

preludemama

Got somebody to test the pressure and volume in my fuel system sometime today. Maybe fuel pump??

From what I've been taught, car problems are either fire or fuel. Have wondered about the fuel system for a while now, since I've never done any service to it, other that change the fuel filter not too long ago~for the first, and only, time, as far as I know.....

Worth a shot, before spending money getting it to the dealer and paying to put on the diagnostic machine...

shmang

Although your Prelude is old, it still has the same OBD I ECU as is what in a '95-'96 model. I had a 95 Nissan and the guys at Firestone did 2 engine diagnostics for me to identify the issue. Unless there is something different that I am not aware of, they should be able to check it and tell you the cause.

From what is described, it is very likely a fire related issue (The plug can not fire fast enough to keep up in high RPM). The fuel should be there or not.

Either way, let us know what you find.

preludemama

All I know is what they tell me... and everybody I've talked to here say my car's too old for their diagnostic eqpt ~ BUT I haven't gone to Firestone... Thnx, I may check it out.

I've called and gotten prices for the following~cost is a big issue for me, I'm already working two jobs~: Distributor cap; rotor; plug wires; coil; fuel filter; air filter.

When I had distributor changed, mechanic had me order/pickup part. Didn't tell me to get dist cap and rotor; changed spark plugs right after changed dist, cuz it ran a little worse afterwards. Also changed fuel filter at time of dist R&R~this was the first time since I've had the car. Didn't change plug wires then, but it hasn't been too long since they were changed.

I have all my receipts for the car since I've had it, maybe even from previous owner, not sure... I have had recurring replacements of spark plug stuff... something about the tubes and seals.... and maybe something else too. It's always used and/or leaked oil since I've had it. Original owner said it's been that way since new... His kid drove back and forth to college... Rebuilt motor few years ago cuz I threw a rod. Was told that was from the oil leak problem/seals, etc... Better for a while, then bad again. Eventually replaced dist housing (needed seal, had to buy whole housing). Oil leak problem got better, but still used a fair amount.

Then it started getting worse again (oil consumption) and doing the "governor" thing, on occasion at first. Now she barely goes and when she does, she's struggling... Please help my baby!!!

lol. Sorry, got carried away~love my Preludes!
Thanks!

nyccarguy

So I rang in 2008 by driving my '01 Prelude to work (as I do every day, 6 days a week). This would normally be a mundane regular commute except for the fact that about half way to work my odometer clicked over the 90,000 (ninety thousand) mile mark! Hurray!

kczprelude

My light is staying on,tranny is slipping,D4 lite is blinking. I cleaned batt. terminals and it reset but then started up again to happen. I ordered autera dynascan progam to get OBD codes but will be a week before it arrives. Any suggestions to try or comments on the scan tool I ordered wuold be appreciated Thanks KC

shmang

Wow, you must drive a lot. If I remember correctly, you get the Prelude by the end of '01 and you drive a second car for commute sometimes, and you still put an average of 15k/yr.

Do you have a long commute or you just taking road trips here and there? Hope the Prelude will serve you good until you are ready for another toy!

nyccarguy

You've got my story sort of right. I bought my Prelude at the end of April '02. My Prelude's first year it was only driven 6K miles due to the fact that I lived in NYC (and commuted to work via subway) and the car sat at my parents' house in the 'burbs. The prelude is (and has been) my daily driver ever since. I was putting 20K per year on the car for a few years. The miles were from commuting and weekend driving (I couldn't stand driving my wife's former '00 Mazda Protege ES, so we took my car everywhere) but then slowed down due to the birth of my son at the end of September '06. The rear facing car seat doesn't do well in the Prelude.

The Protege has since met its demise and we leased an '07 X3 (which I LOVE driving) for my wife. We've been racking up the miles on the X3 since we got it. Now that our son faces forward, we're going to start to use the Prelude a little more (as long as we don't have to schelp stuff).

My commute is about 42 miles per day, six days a week.

My Prelude has been to South Carolina, Pittsburgh, Vermont, & New Hampshire with many places in between.

I've said this before, but I plan on keeping my Prelude as my daily driver for AT LEAST another 5 years.

shmang

20K miles a year is a lot - at least for my standard. So, you must love driving (it is obvious you love the Lude).

I had mine since Apr. '99 and now it has 102K miles and my commute is 50 miles/day, 5 days a week, so it is similar miles compare to you. But, during the weekends/holidays we drive a different car - either my wife's Accord SE or our third car - Nissan Altima.

I am with you there for keeping the Lude for a while. So far I have only had one problem with it - leaky struts, have them replaced 2 years ago and other than that, just doing regular maintenances (oil, fluids changes, spark plugs, wires, dist. cap&rotor) and the timing belt, driving belt, which you only need to change every 90K miles.

I do have a question for you - Have you ever changed the manual transmission fluid? I thought it is not needed until I saw the maint. schedule last month that it is supposed to be changed every 30-40K miles. If that is true, I need to have mine done very soon.

Also, do you know how much it will be to get it changed?

nyccarguy

I actually did have it replaced twice. I think once at the 3 year mark and once just 3K miles ago. I thiink the owner's manual says every 3 years.

I'll have to look up what it cost me.

I think I read on preludepower.com that you should have the VTEC Solenoid( :confuse:) changed at around the 100K mark.

nyccarguy

you still use it as a daily driver. My car is ready for winter action with its Arctic Alpin Snow Tires!

shmang

Now, I feel dumb for not notice and change the MTF. No wonder I feel the gear change is a bit sluggish now. I will get it changed pretty soon. Maybe this weekend. The MTF itself will cost about $17 (2qts) and the labor shouldn't be too much I guess, so maybe something around $50-75?

Yes, I am in Texas, so I use it as daily driver all year long - we only see snow 1-2 days per year and they are light and won't accumulate more than 1 inch (if that). I use my summer tires all the time - it does suck when it rains, especially the first rain after summer, it wash all the grease, oil from the ground and is very slippery. The tires do wear out fast though, I am on my fourth set and it is almost done with.

shmang

I have MTF changed this weekend and Wow, the shifter is so much more smooth. I used to be able to shift w/o clutch when the car is not started, but was not able to perform that in the past 2-3 years, and I was thinking it was caused by the age of the car that some parts are out of alignment. Now, I can do that again!!!!

The old fluid (9 years old) looks still pretty good and slick (although it is a bit darker, it is still clear.) It took me about 1 hour to do the work. I have to get a breaker bar to loose the fill bolt - it is not very tight, just at a place that is not easy to get and put force on. So, I loaned on from AutoZone and bought a filler kit as well. I am not sure if it is even possible to do the job without the filler kit. So, with the oil change, it took me a total of a bit over 2 hours. It is total worth it - not the money saved, but the fun working on the car - I really enjoyed it.

I will see what I will need to do next.

nyccarguy

I think that's so cool that you work on your own car. It is something I've always wanted to do. Just in the past few years I've begun to realize that if I have the time (that's a big IF), that I probably could perform an oil change if I wanted to. SO far my automotive repair experience has been limited to changing tires, changing the Prelude's headlight bulbs, and changing the taillight assembly on my wife's '07 X3.

When I sell my condo and buy a house, I'm going to get a project car to work on and maintain myself.

shmang

Yeah, I do most of the maintenance type works myself - The only times my Lude went to a shop were:
1. Changing the timing belt
2. Replacing leaky struts

I have done everything else myself, including oil change, coolant, brakes, MTF, spark plug/wires, O2 sensor and pretty much everything specified on the maintenance schedule. It is not hard, but time consuming when learn to do the first time. But after the first time, it is just routine works. I believe a lot of other guys here has done it. I love cars and feel like I am taking care of them make me have a personal connection with it.

pro2513

I have had multiple Sylvania Silverstars burn out on me so I gave up. Any advice.
I have installed three sets and one has blown out after approx. two weeks of normal use. I don't touch the bulbs in any way at install.

nyccarguy

Sorry I can't help. I use standard H1 bulbs and have only had to replace them a few times in almost 6 years of ownership.

Why did you feel the need to switch to the Sylvania Silverstars? I find the stock headlamps more than adequate. I've also got the USDM fog lamps which help too.

stuartbonia

In my 10 years of ownership with my Prelude I have changed the bulbs one time. I used the stock bulbs.

cfolsom

Actually 17's wouldn't be too heavy, about the same as stock. I have 19's on a '93 and they look cool and are overkill but I've never felt that I lost handling, horses, etc. If you like them and they look good... KEEP THEM!!! Don't listen to everyone else. :shades: :shades: :shades:

luv2hateatts

have a 1998sh with 110k, clutch just went out. was wondering just how much extra time i should plan on needing or special instructions for dealing with the atts? not a lot of info out there on atts and even the dealership doesnt know much. heard about 6-8 hrs, is this close. have replaced a clutch and tranny in civic, will it be a lot trickier in the prelude or close timewise. any info would be greatly appreciated

nyccarguy

At 110K miles, your clutch lasted more than twice as long as mine did. I had to replace it at 52,000 miles on my '01 Type SH. It was very EXPEN$IVE. I had the work done at the dealership where I normally service the car. When I was orignially quoted the price, I seriously thought I was going to have a heart attack. After all, at heart my beloved Prelude is a "Just change the oil, put gas in it, & change the timing belt at 60K miles and it'll run forever and a day" Honda. I thought clutches were supposed to last at least 100K miles! The ATTS Unit has to be removed and re-installed in order to the clutch to be replaced. This results in an additional 4-5 hours of labor in along with however long it takes to replace the clutch. I trust the dealer I bring my car to, but it was the first time I actually shopped him for a price. I called 2 other dealers and an independent mechanic. They quoted less at first, but then said "does your car have ATTS?" When I said yes, the price went up.

With the price, I wanted the new clutch to last MUCH longer and ended up having an aftermarket CENTERFORCE clutch installed along with a new Honda Throw Out Bearing and Flywheel. My car currently has over 92,000 miles on it and I'm very happy with the clutch (and the car).

They also found a leak in the differential fluid while they were down there and replaced a seal for me that would have cost a lot more than $17 if they weren't already doing the clutch.

If you're doing the job yourself, I'd advise to go to preludeonline.com or preludepower.com They've got some how tos on everything. I'm sure there's a HELMS manual you could buy that would detail how to do the work.

Only 110K on your '98 is nothing! :P What color is your car? Are you the original owner? Good luck to you~!

nyccarguy

I swapped my 15" winter wheels & tires yesterday for my beautiful 16" stock rims shod with Z Rated Yokohama AVS ES100s. Springtime is the start of driving season!

nyccarguy

My Prelude rolled over the 95,000 mile mark tonight! It still looks & runs wonderfully!

I bought a project car:) A 1990 BMW 325iA Coupe. Red/Black...84,000 miles!

shmang

It's good to hear that your car still runs wonderfully. Mine is about 110K now and it still runs trouble free, but there is definitely signs to show its age - runs louder (due to the timing belt change), some minor noises - nothing noticeable unless paying close attention. What has not changed is the power of VTEC and the smoothness of the engine/tranny. I would expect it to last for another 5 years as a trouble free car (put in gas, do the oil/fluid change and scheduled maintenance type of car).

I hope you use the term "project car" as an excuse to get another car - which I tried and only get to keep the car for less than a year before the wife force me to sell it (a Nissan 240SX turbo). So, hopefully, you can hang on to it much longer than I could and make it a long term project car

In general 1990-1991 BMW 3 series are very reliable. I had 2 friends drove those for over 10 years trouble free and the only thing they do is: Change oil and filter every 15K miles (non-synthetic) and both had over 150K when sold.

nyccarguy

is definitely an excuse to get another car. I love my Prelude! At the end of the month 4/27 it will be 6 years old and I have kind of been jonesing for something else. Dropping $950 on an 18 year old E30 made much more financial sense to me than spending somewhere in the mid to high $30K range for a new 1 series.

I'm going to learn to do the maintenance and repairs on my E30 myself. I've got a Bentley manual on order. My first order of business will be to change the oil. Then I'll make my way down the laundry list. With so little miles on the E30 (I see people selling them on bimmefest & in ROUNDEL with well over 200K & 300K miles on them), I hope to drive it to work a few days a week and keep some miles off my Prelude.

shmang

The 3 series is very reliable mechanically (especially with low mileage), so you should be good there. When you get the manual, I would first check all the wires and harness, simply because it is 18 years old and those will age and if some wire quit working or develop a short (due to a broken cover), you will be stranded (and maybe end up replacing parts, in additional to the towing).

Not trying to discourage you, but just want to make sure you check those basic things (for an reliable old car) before you take it for trips longer than 3-4 miles at a time. Good luck on your "new" BMW and have fun!

nyccarguy

for the advice. I'm definitely going to make sure the car is mechanically sound before I start to drive it on a regular basis. Driving the car home 15 miles (on the highway no less) was definitely an adventure.