Isuzu Trooper Clutch Questions

supertrooper65

have owned my 93 trooper for about a year, and recently found i have to change the clutch [ i think] im pretty machanicaly inclined but this looks like a major job. do i have to remove exhaust or does the trany slip out backwards with the transaxle? anybody do this job themselves out there?
ive checked the master cylinder, wondering if it might be the damper or slave? feels like clutch not engaging...

tidester

Other Trooper owners may be able to help you in the main Isuzu Trooper discussion.

tidester, host

supertrooper65

thanks, i already have a post there also. :confuse:

mes315

I have a 97 rodeo 5-speed. When i take off it seems to act as if it has a bad skip.I can push the clutch back in an let it out and it runs fine. If I dont push the clutch in and go ahead and change to 2nd it continues to jerk as if it is misfiring. Has anyone else had this problem?

93trooper1

Had a new clutch put in my 93 Trroper..when I drove away the upshift light came on whil ein 5th plus the cruise control would not engaged. Since then the clutch has started to slip (engine runs when accelerating) - especially in warm weather. The repair shop is replacing the clutch at no cost however they are at a loss as to the upshift light and cruise control issues.

I went back to the dealer and had themn trouble shoot those items...they couldn't find anything wrong - except to say the repair shop may have mixed up with wiring when they did the clutch replacement (Repair shop swears they tagged each wire to the sensors on the transmission).

Any idea what I can do to resolve this?..is the slipping clutch a possible source to the other problems?..

Thanks

atfdmike

It is possible that the clutch slipping could cause the powertrain(transmission) module (PCM)to set a fault, perhaps by monitoring the engine rpms versus the actual speed of the vehicle and the transmission performance. Seems like you would have gotten a CEL or MIL though. The cruise gets it speed input as well from the PCM, I believe. That said, there is also some possibility that the electrical connector on the trans that included the input to the PCM for shift sensing was put back on after the clutch change and a bent pin, broken wire, etc; could have resulted. You don't say how the dealer checked everything, but there is a connector for the sensor, and I don't know why they (clutch people) would have had to have tagged each wire when it could have been disconnected? A bad connection is possible depending on how they dis-assembled and re-assembled the wiring, even if the wires are correctly matched...ie; cold solder joint, broken wire, etc.
I think these are the most obvious places to start. I guess you will know if the slipping clutch, once fixed, was the reason all the trouble started. Let us know, too.
Good luck.

jammer28

today i was driving down the road, mindin my own business, when my clutch peddle went right to the floor.....i pulled over and shut the vehicle off...the peddle came back up....so i went to start it by pushing the peddle in and the peddle won't go in very far.....i couldnt start it right away until i figured out i had to push it in far enough while a grinding noise started and then it would start.....i can move it into and out of gears but i cant get the clutch to allow it to engage the gears while the trooper is running....i can only start it in neutral and it will only start when the peddle is at a certain point, just when the grinding starts and then as soon as it starts i let out the pedal and it will start...it seems like there is resistance to the pedal....like something is stopping me from pushing the pedal all the way in....anyone have any ideas.....i called the local dealer and they said it is the clutch itself but i am not certain of that.....

jredcorn

I had the same problem, I bought the truck with that problem the shifting forks were hitting the top edge of the flywheel and the bearing was hooped. So I bought the clutch kit and replaced it. mine went at 270,000k cost me 760.00 for a good kit and another 710.00 to install with my mechanic. But now its good. You have to take off the skid plate, exhaust,crossmember then drop the tranny took him ten hours cause it had never been taken apart so he had broken bolts to drill out from the crossmember and skidplate, but the rest went off without a hitch. But yeah that was the exact problem with my 93 trooper.

jredcorn

remove skid-plate then cross member take off exhaust(or just cut out a piece like I did) then pull the tranny, make sure you have a floor jack or two to have under it when you unbolt it. mark and unplug any wiring, drop it, resurface clutch plate install new clutch and plug it back in. oh yyeah replace fluids as well as any seals.

swiftee

Please help me with my clutch nightmare! Ive had a leak for a while in my hydraulic clutch system and after struggling with loss of clutch pressure I decided to change the master...then the slave.. and still it leaks. I can see the metal hoses on the fire wall but I cant see any wet spots.. but when I pump the pedal to bleed, I see fluid dripping from the frame between the wheels. What could be leaking away from the firewall? Help!

enkidog

I noticed that the clutch pedal had to be pushed nearly to the floor to disengage the clutch. The hydraulic fluid was quite low so I filled the reservoir, but the pedal still has to be pushed nearly to the floor to disengage the clutch. I there a way to adjust clutch pedal free play on this car? Thanks.

daugherty012

We just bought a 94 Trooper. It made a whining sound. Husband says it is the throw out bearing. Changed bearing and whole clutch. Still makes whining noise, except in 4th gear. Sounds like gears are constantly "wound out" even when RPMs are low. Noise is very loud and can be heard from outside the vehicle. Any suggestions?

sundayeveryday

We have a 1995 Honda Passport which is the same as a rodeo. The clutch went out so we replaced it. Got about 10 miles and the pedal went to the floor again.
The Wedge collar keeps pulling out of the clutch pressure plate. The wedge collar attaches to the throw out bearing. The throw out bearing or (release bearing)keeps pulling it out. We have returned the clutch kit got a new one same thing. have replaced the master and the slave. Same thing. Have talked to honda dealer and parts stores say they have no idea. Please help we have had the transmission out 5 times now. No one can tell us anything.

sybal

'88 Trooper II I have a similar problem. I had the clutch changed and now when it gets warm it slips. I only have to drive it about 20 miles before it starts slipping and gets progressively worse. When it cools off for a while it's great, just like new. If anyone can help figure this out, I'd be glad to know.

sybal

'88 Trooper II I have a similar problem. I had the clutch changed and now when it gets warm it slips. I only have to drive it about 20 miles before it starts slipping and gets progressively worse. When it cools off for a while it's great, just like new. If anyone can help figure this out, I'd be glad to know.

qwe1601

I have a 93 trooper doing the same thing. I had the clutch replaced about 3 months earlier, plus master about 2 weeks ago. did you get any answers to this problem.

mall0y

My problem is similar, but I can't tell if there is an easy fix for it. I drove it this morning fine absolutely no problems. I came home and parked it and the went to drive it again. Push in the clutch while its in first and there is no response. Its as if I hadn't pushed the clutch in at all. There is no resistance at all and the pedal goes straight to the floor without engaging. What could be causing this problem? Its an 89 isuzu trooper. Why would it go from working perfectly to not even engaging only a few hours later? There is no grinding or anything unless I try to force it into gear. Please help.......

93trooper1

Had identically the same problem - took it back to the place that replaced the clutch and they replaced it again. It worked for a bit and then the problem reoccurred. Awhile later the clutch failed completely. I had the vehicle towed to another mechanic and then learned that the clutch assembly on my Trooper has two cylinders and not one and that both were leaking.badly Had the two of them replaced and have not encountered the problem since.

sundayeveryday

What is probably happening is there is a part called a wedge collar that the throwout bearing clips into and because it is a pull type clutch not a push clutch the throw out bearing pulls the wedge collar out and hence the pedal to the floor. We have had our transmission out 8 yes I said 8 times and we have done it by the book and we get so far and then the pedal hits the floor. We have replaced the master cylinder the slave cylinder we even took back the clutch kit and it is still happening we have talked to honda,Napa auto parts everyone we know and nobody seems to be able to help us with this problem. We dont have the money to take it to a shop and we are about to call a junk yard to just come and get it if we find out anything I will let you know for sure but right now we are sol. sorryl,

bigredguy

throwout bearing keeps coming out i cant understand why its really getting on my nerves ive done bout 7 clutch kits and pulled the tranny 15 times. i just need some help on what to do should i buy a more expensive clutch kit> i adjusted the peddle almost all the way in and it seemed to work fine for about three weeks help!!!!!!!!!!!!1

sixpack3

have u found the problem? I have the same problem with a 95 rodeo and i've tried everything i can think of

bigredguy

No ive adjusted the peddle numerous times and it seems to work fine for a lil bit but now its popping out without the motor running... it kinda seems as if the slave cylinder is pushing the fork out two far... i been thinkin bout putting a spacer between the slave and the tranny and see if that works im ready to try anything.. i love my trooper the motor is still strong after 190k... ive been on a bunch of other sites and i cant find nothing but other people having the same problem

sundayeveryday

I feel pain and frustration. We have had the transmission out 9 times now, We have replaced the slave the cyle, the master cylendar. We even took the clutch kit back and exchanged it for a different one. So as far as buying a more expensive clutch kit i am not sure it that will solve the problem. But if it does please let me iknow. We have talked to Napa Auto parts, Honda, isuzu they cant even give me a print out that shows the wedge collar in it so I dont get it

bigredguy

Yeah i think its a lil crazy ive never had this much problems with a clutch on any other vehicle.. i talked to one mechanic and he told me to try and change the fork but i dont see how that would work but im almost wanting just to try and jb weld the throwout bearing in there maybe that will work lol if yall think of anything let me know

sundayeveryday

After we pulled the tranny out about 3 times and then returned the clutch kit for a new one we jb welded the ring that holds the wedge collar on the throwout bearing,
didn't help!!!lol still pulled out. Now we are finding that the part on the pressure plate that holds the wedgecollar onto the pressure plate is loose and pulling out also we dont get it. we dont have a problem with the throwout bearing coming out our problem is it pulls the wedgecollar out of the pressure plate so now we are going for time #9 of pulling out the tranny and trying again so if you have any dynamite we will be needing some if this doesn't work we will let you know what happens!!!!!!!!!!!! :sick: :confuse:

bigredguy

I think isuzu using the pull clucth was a bad idea... im lost i pulled my tranny yestrday and everything seems to work fine until i drive down the road for bout 2 miles and then my nightmare happens all over again

bigvehicross

I also have have this probem...I am doing a conversion from an auto to a manual on an Isuzu Vehicross. I am using a Trooper 5 speed, and clutch.

After installing the new gearbox, I had the throw out berring pop out almost right away...
Removed and reinstalled the tranny two more times, each time the same problem after less than 5 miles of driving.... :mad: :mad: :mad:

I at first thought I was doing something wrong durring the install, But after a quick search online, I find you all are haveing the same probelm!!!!

Now Im furious.!!!

I also used a Napa replacement clutch kit, which I beleive is the problem...They are manufacturing the inside of the preasure plate for a larger sized spring-ring.
I still have the original Isuzu OEM clutch and noticed that, the recessed area in the female ring on the preasure plate, is machined differently...it is bevelled at a 45 degree angle, and recessed deeper.

The Napa one is not beveled the same way!

The Napa part is built WRONG!!!!!!!

I am so pissed off at Napa that i think we all should join together and sue them for our lost time and painfull multiple tranny removals and installs...

If any other folks feel the same way please contact me ASAP

I bought another clutch from Auto Zone made by LUK and it seems to be built a little better than the napa one (although it appears to be using chinease parts, too)... I am doing the removeal and install one more time useing this LUK clutch..

I will post tommorow on the reults...

There is a better designed stronger one off of a Mazda RX 7 (search you tube) these mazda ones have a recessed area on the ring where the "fingers" hold the ring...Also the ring is MUCH heaver duty than the isuzu style.
The snap-ring is thicker and this allows it to sit in the recessed groove in the berring (like it was designed to)
If the Auto Zone clutch does not work, I may retrofit a Mazda style ring and retainer on my isuzu.

Big Al

mjs6985

ok there is a way to do this. when you install a new clutch you have to install the throw out bearing to the pressure plate before you put the transmission in. there is a keeper that holds the throw out bearing to the pressure plate it goes around the wierd little ring that goes around the throw out bearing.. without this the throw out bearing just pops outta place with a few compressions of the clutch. if you cant find the keeper then just put a couple tac welds around the weird little ring welding the ring to the throw out bearing and the pressure plate. hope that helps you. i had the same problems you guys are having and i finally found the keeper that goes in there. i was like wow, how could i be so blind.

bigvehicross

I have solved my clutch issuse...

Both the two aftermarket clutches that I bought were made incorrectly....Napa and AutoZone.

On the AutoZone clutch set the throw out berring as TOO small and would not even fit over the input shaft!

Both preasure plates have the "ring" in the center machined to large...
I put a micrometer on it and it is substantually bigger than the stock OEM clutch ring...

To solve this...I removed the ring from inside the OEM preasure plate (by bending the little tabs back) and then reinstalled it on the new Napa one....

Now the clutch works great!!!

If I was gonna do this all over again, I would just spend the extra $$$ for the stock OEM parts!

I don't suggest welding the ring on, or installing the berring on the preasure plate before install, as this can damage the fork and input shaft also...

Big Al

1994trooper5

i have a 94 trooper now and ive only had it for about 3 months or so. When i got it the clutch was fine and worked with no problems. all of a sudden it started to slip horribly after taking off from a stoplight. I got where i had to go and parked it overnight. the next day i whent ahead and left and the truck was fine, didnt slip. 2 days after it did the same thing and started to slip really bad. Now its been about a month since it started to do this and the only time the truck is fine to drive is when the motor is dead cold and hadnt been run for about overnight and this only lasts for about 30 minutes until the slipping is too bad to drive, dont like taking 0-60 in about 2 minutes. what should be the first thing that i check before going to the clutch? need help and have short about of time and money

bigredguy

Today i tack welded my wedge collar to my pressure plate it looks and feels like its gonna work.. In the morning Im gonna put it back together i will let yall know how everything goes

bigredguy

wells guys go to orileys and get a sachs clutch ive had mine in for two weeks now and everything is working great

tbucket1

I just went out to my vehicle to move it and it did this same thing. The pedel went to the floor, would not go into gear without turning the motor off. and then it of course wont shift from whatever gear you start out in.
I will be replacing the clutch, I have never replaced one and was wondering what I can expect, Is it difficult. How long will it take, what is the best brand that I wont have any problems with, will the tranny need to come out? and will the throwout being need replaced? any help would be apprecated.

enkidog

I don't know what year your Trooper is, but I had a similar problem and found that it was nearly out of fluid in the hydraulic clutch reservoir. Have you checked that? I just needed to add brake fluid to the reservoir and it has been fine since. It took a while to get the air out, but pumping and refilling did the trick.

tbucket1

Didnyou have to bleed the clutch system or just keep filling it and pumping the pedel until you didnt have to add anymore. I know I sound stupid,but I'll ask anyway.
I'll try that when day light hits. I'm in the canyon at snowbird ski resort

sundayeveryday

You need to be sure to get oem parts I would suggest from Napa auto parts it has to be OEM parts or you will have to do it over and over. good luck!

enkidog

I didn't have to bleed the system. That surprised me, but I just kept pumping until I had pedal pressure again. Worth a try anyhow. In my 1994 Trooper the clutch refill is low on the firewall, below the brake refill.