..some race engines are re-built after each race!...so I guess break in really doesn't matter there..eh??
The books say go easy at first....some people say give it hell....or drive it as you normally drive.....who cares?..break them in however the heck ya want..ya know??
I don't question what your technical terms are but I believe I'm saying the same thing. That metals have to go through various heat cycles before, as you put it, they are hardened. I don't believe in running a motor hard when green but I believe it should be run through many different stages including short bursts to redline to effectively subject it to its operating range. A case in point would be when manufacturers used to put in break in recommendations it would always be 1000 miles highway OR 500 miles stop and go city driving.
Red, you just rub me the wrong way. You constantly knock everyone on their posts or cut down people with unknown words and when someone comes back at you it's, "Don't take it so seriously" or "I'm just kidding, sorry" The only reason I knock your spelling and punctuation is your famous post about, "Ford owners can't read". How come you can say that and when someone comes back that you can't spell you get all defensive? Just seems you can dish it out but can't take it. I'm done with this crap and to answer your question if it's not Nikasell(sp?) then I don't know.
What should be the break in period for a remanufactured engine? I just installed a Jasper engine in my truck and the first recommended oil change is 500 miles. This engine was bench tested before shipping. COmes with a 3 year 75K mile warranty, all inclusive (better then a brand new GM engine)
It sounds to me as though while our approaches vary somewhat, we're pretty much in agreement that it's best to take it easy on the motor during break-in, vary the speeds, and let things settle-in.
Regarding the racing engine analogy, I'm not convinced that there's a correlation between those and the engines in a street vehicle. For what it's worth, I was working on a project a few years ago that took me to the headquarters that builds the cars and engines for Dale Earnhardt... Those engines spend many hours on the dyno before they go into the cars. In effect, they're "broken in" before they hit the track.
Regarding Marvel Mystery Oil... It's NOT at all like "STP" or "Engine Honey." It's very thin, and can be used either as a fuel or oil additive. The reason I use it in fuel during break-ins is because when it's combusted, it leaves a "dry lubricant" residue.
I won't argue its virtues... I'll simply trust what I was told in the automotive technology courses in college.
BTW... Out of curiousity due to an earlier post, I went out last evening, started up the Dakota (5.9 V8 with 243 miles), let it run, and checked for signs of "blue smoke"... Darned if I could see any!... Then again, perhaps I'm color-blind and don't know it!
cool to see that you've had experience with model airplanes. your close on the ABC description. actually it's a siliconized piston running in a chrome plated brass sleeve. set up with the proper taper in the bore with a tight fit at the top end, these set ups use to make the most horsepower for their displacment. however ther'ye not cheap, at least not the Rossi's and OPS's from italy. BTW what type of planes were you into?
as far as ticking people off you're right. but since coming here i will tell you and anyone else reading this that i have been learning a much better way of communicating with other people. although i may not show it at times. i just can't help myself though when it comes to certain people that get mad so easily. i will work on it though.
The best way to break in your new truck is to follow the recommendations in your owners manual the biggest reason to is that there is a service chart in the back and in it you write in the date and mileage each service is performed, if you bring the truck in to the dealer to have the service done they should write in for you. By doing this you ensure that if you lose an engine your warranty will repair your vehicle, if the chart is not filled out the dealer can say you neglected to perform "regular" maintenance on the vehicle and deny warranty work. About using a different grade oil don't, for the same reason the dealer can deny warranty work based on failure to follow the maintenance chart. Also remember that the engine temperature is regulated to maintain 190-210F as a result the ambient temperature doesn't really matter while the truck is operating, and if it is above 190F ambient we have some problems. Changing the weight of the oil is mostly for cold weather when the ambient temp is to low for the oil to flow. Using a synthetic is a matter of personal choice for normal use regular oil works just as good as a synthetic the main thing is to remember to change oil and oil filters at regular intervals. I hope this helps.
I don't know what's in Marvel Mystery Oil, but back in '83 I had a Honda Gold Wing that had sticky slides in the carburetors. Honda replaced the slides but that was a temporary fix. Someone told me to put about one ounce of MMO in the tank about every fifth fillup and it did the trick. Whenever that problem showed up I'd put in a tiny amount of MMO and it would clear up. I showed this to a great many of my Gold Wing Road Rider friends and every one of them said it fixed their problem.
Now that you've all knashed your teeth together about which weight oil to use on a new engine, I have a question. What is best for a 1993 straight six Jeep engine with 100,000 miles on it? It burns no oil now and still runs the same as when it had 50,000 miles on it. If the outside temp in the summer gets to 85-105F is it safe to use 20-50W oil? If 20-50W is so bad for engines then why does everyone sell it? The owners mannual does'nt say to use it but how widely available was it when they wrote the book back in '92? Apples to Oranges but my Continental IO-520 Aircraft engine uses 50W year- Round in Denver CO. Talk about some Thick oil on start-up on a 30F morning! Thanks for your response(s) and you can refrain from any "bashing" being how it only tells everyone how mature you really are(nt).
this may or may not be the right answer to your question but here goes. 20/50 has it's applications, most notably with small discpl. engines. heck i always ran 20/50 in my honda motorcycles, as this is what they recomended. with the modern engines for cars that are being produced though, tolerances play an important role. quite frankly they're way better than years ago and if oil is changed on a frequent basis they last much longer too. this mainly due to better metals and initial fit and finish. this is why 5/30 or 10/30 (depending on climate) works so well and allows better gas mileage, which is what most people want. so to use 20/50 in a new car that only recomends 5/30 would be like and a wieghted trailor to it. if your Jeep engine is running the same at 100,000 as it was at 50,000 and not burning oil, then why are you asking what wieght should be used? it doesn't really make sense to change something that's been working right?
Comments
The books say go easy at first....some people say give it hell....or drive it as you normally drive.....who cares?..break them in however the heck ya want..ya know??
- Tim E.Coyote - Super Genius
(Eatious Slobbious)
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/WileSupr_Gen.wav
Red, you just rub me the wrong way. You constantly knock everyone on their posts or cut down people with unknown words and when someone comes back at you it's, "Don't take it so seriously" or "I'm just kidding, sorry"
The only reason I knock your spelling and punctuation is your famous post about, "Ford owners can't read". How come you can say that and when someone comes back that you can't spell you get all defensive? Just seems you can dish it out but can't take it. I'm done with this crap and to answer your question if it's not Nikasell(sp?) then I don't know.
Regarding the racing engine analogy, I'm not convinced that there's a correlation between those and the engines in a street vehicle. For what it's worth, I was working on a project a few years ago that took me to the headquarters that builds the cars and engines for Dale Earnhardt... Those engines spend many hours on the dyno before they go into the cars. In effect, they're "broken in" before they hit the track.
Regarding Marvel Mystery Oil... It's NOT at all like "STP" or "Engine Honey." It's very thin, and can be used either as a fuel or oil additive. The reason I use it in fuel during break-ins is because when it's combusted, it leaves a "dry lubricant" residue.
I won't argue its virtues... I'll simply trust what I was told in the automotive technology courses in college.
BTW... Out of curiousity due to an earlier post, I went out last evening, started up the Dakota (5.9 V8 with 243 miles), let it run, and checked for signs of "blue smoke"... Darned if I could see any!... Then again, perhaps I'm color-blind and don't know it!
Luck to all the the break-ins!
Never heard of ABC used in racing motorcyle engines, at least not in the last 20 years...
ABC is a cheap, usually ringless Aluminum piston running in a bore of Brass, I think, used in little two stroke model airplane engines.
I wouldn't use MMO for any reason. Just another snake oil.
And REDSILVERADO, you sure do piss alot of folks off!
How about we get back to just good ol' friendly debates......
airplanes. your close on the ABC description.
actually it's a siliconized piston running in a
chrome plated brass sleeve. set up with the
proper taper in the bore with a tight fit at the
top end, these set ups use to make the most
horsepower for their displacment. however ther'ye
not cheap, at least not the Rossi's and OPS's
from italy. BTW what type of planes were you
into?
as far as ticking people off you're right. but
since coming here i will tell you and anyone else
reading this that i have been learning a much
better way of communicating with other people.
although i may not show it at times. i just can't
help myself though when it comes to certain
people that get mad so easily. i will work on it
though.
thanx,
...red
"wow ford owners can read".
How on earth can you bore with a taper? The whole reason that we rebuild engines is that there is too much taper in the cylinders.
Rich
About using a different grade oil don't, for the same reason the dealer can deny warranty work based on failure to follow the maintenance chart. Also remember that the engine temperature is regulated to maintain 190-210F as a result the ambient temperature doesn't really matter while the truck is operating, and if it is above 190F ambient we have some problems. Changing the weight of the oil is mostly for cold weather when the ambient temp is to low for the oil to flow.
Using a synthetic is a matter of personal choice for normal use regular oil works just as good as a synthetic the main thing is to remember to change oil and oil filters at regular intervals.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for your response(s) and you can refrain from any "bashing" being how it only tells everyone how mature you really are(nt).
question but here goes. 20/50 has it's
applications, most notably with small discpl.
engines. heck i always ran 20/50 in my honda
motorcycles, as this is what they recomended.
with the modern engines for cars that are being
produced though, tolerances play an important
role. quite frankly they're way better than years
ago and if oil is changed on a frequent basis
they last much longer too. this mainly due to
better metals and initial fit and finish. this is
why 5/30 or 10/30 (depending on climate) works so
well and allows better gas mileage, which is what
most people want. so to use 20/50 in a new car
that only recomends 5/30 would be like and a
wieghted trailor to it.
if your Jeep engine is running the same at
100,000 as it was at 50,000 and not burning oil,
then why are you asking what wieght should be
used? it doesn't really make sense to change
something that's been working right?
...red
If your jeep motor is running just fine at 100K, why change what you're already doing. Obviously, you're doing it right.
Rich
this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.
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