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Comments
Never heard of that one, but it sure sounds like it means "extra dealer profit."
MSRP 38700 lighting, sirius,cc...
Invoice 36087
HSE Price is 500 over invoice 36,087
HSE Invoice prices:
Base 32191+
Destination 775+
CC 637+
Sirius 728 +
Lighting 956.+
Retailer Activity Fee 300.
MSRP 38700
Invoice 35587
Price 36087
They said 500 over invoice, but when I added it up it is actually 800 over invoice.
I questioned the 300. , they said "retailer activity fee", and that Land Rover allows up to 500 for that....that is all I know.
I have not bought this yet. Seems like a pretty good deal?
Yes, I know the TTL is not included in that 500 over invoice...
But, I do not know how many other surprise fees there may be besides that 300. fee they had included in that price from the figures above in my other post.
I did not try to negotiate for the OTD because I really would not know how to do that, I knew the invoice price, so I went from there ( on the phone), may go tomorrow if HSE arrives...
How many extra fees can there be & what is negotiable?
If they say they sell it to you for 500 over invoice, do they just come up with extra "fees" to make up the profit?
How would you negotiate the OTD to begin with when you don't know all of the fees, instead of just asking for invoice price or 500 over invoice?
Also, what do you think about Gap ins. & credit life?
Too many questions I know.
Thanks for your help.
It's all negotiable. :shades:
The nice thing about focusing on an OTD price is you can skip negotiating on the little stuff. If you haven't signed anything, tell your salesperson the numbers aren't adding up and you want to start over with an OTD price.
And then you get to the F&I person to sign the papers and get pushed to buy mop&glow, extended warranties and who knows what else. That's why they call it the rip-off room. More reason to focus on the OTD price.
Confessions of a Car Salesman is a good read.
1. Know invoice on new car.
2. Know what they are selling for in your market.
3. Know how to figure what your TTL will be
4. If you have a trade - know a REALISTIC trade value for your car in your market.
5. Price you want to pay + TTL - used trade = OTD
It takes research but can be done. I will say however that most OTD offers I get are ridiculous. Also, know that in most state tax basis is new car - trade allowance.
You can figure what your taxes and title costs and delivery fees are going to be. Take that number and figure out how much in total you want to pay for a new car. Work backwards from there and you get your OTD price. Easy. Just tell your salesperson that you want a new Rover in your driveway for $xx,xxx dollars, including everything. Let them figure out how to get to your price.
I drive them forever and think extended warranties aren't worth the money. I don't have NAV or too much in the way of fancy gizmos. I do try to buy a car with at least a 60/5 drivetrain warranty. I'd rather keep some money in the bank and take my chances. YMMV.
I always heard that the "rip-off" room slang came straight from the dealers. :shades:
The rip-off room CNN)
Rip-off room revisited (CNN)
& steve:
Thank you both for all of your answers & opinions.
Not to get too personal, but just to let you know your help here is invaluable to me as well as many others I am sure. My husband passed away a year ago & though I am college educated, I knew nothing about buying & selling cars. I have been reading on Edmunds for quite a while now, I was amazed when I first found it...the trade-in forum, etc. It is a great service you all provide here. It is plain to see you all have a passion for this business, that is why you are here. Thank you very much.
I do not have a trade-in, I sold my SUV about two weeks ago, owed too much, could not get enough as trade-in, sold it myself for $4000 more than the LR dealer offered me for it & still I had to pay the difference to pay it off, ( it was loaded with low miles, but too many bad memories of driving my husband back & forth to hospital, sounds silly, but could not stand it) anyway now I will have to pay the whole sales tax on the new one. And by the way, CarMax & some other dealers had offered me the exact amount that Volvomax on trade-in forum had said it would bring.
I know I should get something more economical, etc. but I have been through hell for seven years with my husband being sick, etc. And I want this LR2, so I am just trying to get a good deal on it & not feel like such a fool going in not knowing what I am doing, so once again thank you very much for your help.
And I don't have the deal done yet, so I may have more questions.
Also, lrguy, I will probably want to get an extended warranty later, but not now. I would not want to have to worry after the 50,000 miles. Thank you for answering each of my questions.
You also will get a better deal on a SE if you can still find one - and a retired service loaner will have a few miles but even a better deal. If this intrigues you I will be glad to provide specifics Hope you and yours have a wonderful New Year
Does anyone know if any aftermarket locking gas cap will work fine, or is there something "special" about the LR2 that keeps you captive to the OEM cap?
Well, I got it....LR2 HSE, the deal I told you about.
Had only emailed & 1 phone call, about the deal...wondered what I would have to go through when I got there & if they would follow through with the deal.
Never been so surprised, got the deal exactly as promised, no pressure, did not try to sell anything extra....finance guy was just great, they were so very nice, I could not have imagined it would go as it did. Not like any thing I have ever seen or heard of...Just excellent.
Drove it home last night, Brand new, I have driven it 200 miles, absolutely love it so far. Perfect. Lines on windshield do not bother me at all.
Not a shallow person at all, but it is funny how a car can make you feel...as I said we have been through hell the last 7 years, with husband being sick & passing away a year ago.....could have gotten something used or less expensive, this is the first thing I have ever really splurged on, feel a little guilty...kids 19 & 16 told me I deserved it. The first fun we have had in a very long time. Thank you again for all of your answers to my questions, you were great. It gave me much more confidence to be able to have all of that info., etc.
Happy New Year to you & Thanks again.
First, I will be using this vehicle for both normal highway driving, and also recreational offroad beach sand in the Long Island, New York area, as well as snow in the winter.
I've notice that the LR2 comes with all season tires, and also comes with a temporary spare. Some road tests have negatively reported about the lack of availability of better offroad tires, and also about the temporary spare.
Has anyone replaced the temporary with a regular full size spare. Does a full size spare fit in the spare well? I will need a regular full size spare to qualify for the beach permit on Long Island.
Also, I don't feel comfortable driving on sand with all season tires. Does anyone have any experience with any all terrain tires like Perelli or the BF Goodrich All Terrain tires?
Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated.
I read this on several reviews...yahoo auto user reviews, etc. Here is one of the "scary" reviews below.
I hope this is not true because I just bought LR2 HSE.
Anyone?
PREPARE TO COUGH UP $900+ EVERY 10,000 MILES
by MIKE from PORTER RANCH, CA (6/29/07)
Pros: FUEL ECONOMY IS OK, NOTHING IMPRESSIVE, GOOD LOOKS, NICE INTERIOR,
Cons: FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING IT, SOMETHING IS HOLDING ME BACK, TIGHT BACK SEATS
I'VE HAD 2 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY'S AND ONE RANG ROVER SPORT, AND I TEST DROVE THE LR2. ALTHOUGH IT HAS A NICE RIDE, AND FEEL, HOWEVER MY COMPLAINT IS THAT EVERY 10,000 MILES I WILL BE NEEDING A NEW SET OF BRAKE PADS WHICH COST OVER $900.00. SO IF YOU DO A LOT OF DRIVING, TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THE COST OF REPLACING THOSE BRAKE PADS. I JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND WHAT IS THE POINT OF PURCHASING A $30,000 PLUS SUV WHEN THE ENGINEERS DON'T TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION THE WEIGHT OF THE SUV AND THE ROTORS THAT WON'T HELP THE SUV STOP!!!!!!!!!!!
IN MY OPINION, IT'S A WASTE OF MONEY!
"Is it true that you have to spend $800-$900+ every year or 10,000 miles for brake pads?"
Go ahead, you answer it.
If you want my answer it's "I dont even understand the question." If he's asking ME if I spend (or have to spend) $800-$900+ every year or 10,000 miles for brake pads" I'd say No. But I think he's asking Land over owners. Not even sure if he's asking LR2 owners cause his capitalized gibbering mentions Discoveries and Range Rovers.
Your turn. You answer him. But first, tell us what the question is, and how YOU are qualified to answer it.
The all terrain tires on dry sand will be fine just air them down somewhat.
If you really want to get some more aggressive tires or ones with thicker sidewalls that can be aired down more get a set of 17 inch steel wheels and put on a set of real all terrain tires.
As to the 10,000 mile brake job it sounds like BS to me.
First look at the date of that posting. The LR2 had only been out for 10 weeks or so when that review was posted. Not many people put 10,000 miles on a car in that short amount of time and if they do it is mainly highway driving so brake wear would be minimal.
The LR2 has amazing brakes just like all other Land Rovers. The catch is that Land Rovers are a little heavier then the average SUV because of the extra 4wd tech and the super strong chassis. I have seen the brakes on LR3s wear out in 20,000 or so miles and I have seen them last as long as 50,000 miles. It all depends on how you drive. A person accelerating hard from every stop light then slamming on the brakes, riding the brakes down every hill and generally driving like a moron is going to wear out the brakes on a big Land Rover in 20,000 miles or less. Someone that coasts to a stop when possible, anticipates stops, uses Command Shift to engine brake down hills will get 30,000 or more miles out of a set of brakes.
1) There are pretty noticeable creases forming in the driver's side leather seat edge along where my left thigh rests when I'm sitting in the car. It looks like the leather has weakened and I'm worried it will crack sooner than later. for the record, I'm 5' 11" and weigh 185 lbs so I don't think I'm causing this. I've never had this happen in any other car I've owned foreign or domestic.
2) When going over any type of bump, I hear a loud cracking noise coming from the back of the truck and a rattle (almost like a loose spring) coming from what appears to be the passenger side of the car. The dealer has heard this too and tried unsuccessfully to fix it.
Anyone??? Thanks.
FWIW, I was a the dealer the other day and noticed that the new HSEs fix this with some extra stitching and perforations on the seat edge.
Some manufacturers such as VW actually use special oil during break-in. This oil should not be changed during the break-in period.
Regards,
Tom
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/editorials/peek-oil/
Thanks.
I live half a mile up an east-west dirt road in the Litchfield hills of northwestern Connecticut. It is a private road barely plowed and hardly maintained. The grade is 16 per cent in two pitches and there is a grade on the south side of the road so the sun does not hit the road in winter. The early snows of several inches around Thanksgiving get packed down and freeze giving a good base for the ice that stays until a good thaw. I have gone down the hill spinning end-over-end in a Toyota Tercel and once rode the crown of the road as I slid straight down in a Saab 9000. Scary stuff... The studs provide a sense of security that is well worth the expense. Four by fours, IMHO, provide their drivers with an amazing ability to go forward (and backward) in very challenging winter conditions but they don’t do much for the person wishing to stop when they have all-season radials when it is very slippery/icy. The wider tread and harder rubber are not what one wants in a snow Tyre.
My other car is a Volvo XC-70 (Ocean Race) and I put the same brand of now tyres on it for the same reasons. BTW, I get the same MPG out of both cars.
I have not used chains except on my tractor. Old fashioned chains are a royal PITA to put on but there may be newer types that are easier. For me the studs are the solution to the terrible first and last half mile I have to drive leaving or returning home.
Hugh
Anyway, the second time they said they fixed it. They said they just needed to adjust and lube the bumpers on the interior of the hatch (Hah again!). It made no difference. Obviously, they didn't even do a test drive after their "fix."
Now it is in for a third time for this issue, after me taking a tech on a test drive and making sure he heard the noise. I will post an update when I get the car back. If you know anything new, patmatoole, I'd be very interested to hear it.
Other issues I've had:
1. Moisture in rear taillight. Fixed right away with no hassle.
2. Deformation of plastic trim at exterior base of windshield. Fixed no hassle.
3. Loose plastic trim on passenger side door, causing whistling at highway speeds. Fixed after much hassle with the dealer unable to determine source of the problem after two or three tries. I had to figure it out myself and show them.
4. No sound from radio on intermittent occasions. Seems to have been fixed with software reload.
5. Check Engine light on for about a week. Then went off. Tests showed no problems, dealer said. Ditto with "fuel cap loose or missing" warning message.
Still, I like my LR2. Hoping these are all just early QC bugs and long term will be fine once resolved.