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Toyota Tacoma General Shopping Questions

blacklab4blacklab4 Posts: 12
edited April 2014 in Toyota
Why is the price of a used 05 Tacoma Crew Cab more expensive than a new 06 model?
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Comments

  • billingsleybillingsley Posts: 69
    Maybe the price has dropped because of competition. Remember, Nissan is breathing down their neck with the redesigned Frontier.

    :)
  • blacklab4blacklab4 Posts: 12
    Will the new Nissan Frontier Crew cab have more rear leg room than the previous model?
  • billingsleybillingsley Posts: 69
    I don't know the previous, but the new one is supposed to be scant on rear leg room. :(
  • blacklab4blacklab4 Posts: 12
    What is the upside to the new Nissan Frontier over the 05-06 Toyota Tacoma?
  • billingsleybillingsley Posts: 69
    Sorry, I haven't replied in a few days. Been busy. The Frontier does have more horsepower, and more torque. Some people like the ride better on the Frontier than the Toy, but I have test driven both, and to me they're very close. Consumer Reports likes the Frontier better than the Tacoma, but the Frontier does NOT have a sliding rear window for the crew cab. You can get leather and power seats on the Frontier that's not available on the Tacoma. Also, the rear brakes on the Frontier are disc, and only drum on the Tacoma.
    It comes down to what you want in a midsize truck and also styling.
    :confuse:
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    Everyone talks about the rear brakes being disc is better. If you can lock up the rear drums, and the advantage of discs is more power, how are discs better on the back? I know that it is almost impossible to lock the front wheels, so discs do improve front braking. You can get anti-lock on rear drums, so that is not the reason. In a truck with the backend loaded, discs might improve the stopping, but a vette with no weight in the back baffles me. Answers?
  • blacklab4blacklab4 Posts: 12
    Thanks for the input, it was informative. So it sounds like you would recommend the Tacoma? If yes, should I try to find a good deal on a 2005, or wait until the end of the year,and get a 2006?
  • billingsleybillingsley Posts: 69
    The only change I can find on the '06 is a tire pressure monitor. But, beyond that, if you can find an '05 that has what you want, rock and roll with the '05. I have seen a few "used" on Toyota lots, and the salesperson explained that they were bought by someone who couldn't afford the vehicle. ( I.E. young adults.), and they were repossessed. That would be the best bet yet.

    Good luck

    :)
  • blacklab4blacklab4 Posts: 12
    Thanks for your help
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since calipers grab the rotor from the sides, they are less affected by the vehicle's weight transfer when stopping. With rear drums, the forward shoe usually wears out faster than the rear shoe inside the drum. Not a big deal on lighter vehicles, but I definitely noticed the difference in my duallies (96 Dodge Ram 3500 had rear drums, 05 Ram 3500 has rear discs).

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • slibs66slibs66 Posts: 3
    I'm looking to get a new trunk for work. Dad and I own our business. We're sure we want to get another Toyota Tacoma. No questions there. The thing is my pops wants me to get a 4 cyclinder, 2WD, 2.7L, 159 HP regular cab. Of course, I would like to get the Pre-Runner V-6, 2WD, 4.0L, 236 HP.

    He's absolutely convinced the 4 cycl is the way to go and will save us lot more money in the long-run (gas mileage, maintaince, etc). I told him I don't think there is that big of a difference. I said the slightly bigger trunk will help us out with advertising too. Gives off a higher perception of success with our new logo and all written on the side (most of your two-bit outfits drive the smaller trunks). Also keep in mind most of the miles driven are highway. My commute is about 30 miles to and fro our office everyday. Then account for our stops throughout the day....

    Now considering I know very little about cars/trunks, is there really a measurable difference between the 4 cyc and the V-6? mostly in terms of gas mileage and maintance. Is the 4 cycl that much more practical? know of any good articles or sites covering this topic?

    Thanks guys, appreciate your help in advance.
  • Personally I've had both. I had the 05 with the 4 cylinder 5 speed. Wasn't that impressed with it to be honest with you. I really can't tell a difference in mileage with my 06 Prerunner that has the V6 and 6 speed in it. The V6 has alot more power and you can notice it's there. Maintenance wise you're looking about the same price. The Tacoma doesn't require a spark plug change for 100,000 miles. Plus you'll get it back on re-sale. The 06 Tacoma is predicted to have the highest resale value (retaining 53% of it value) when it's 5 years old. If you do mountain driving you'll have to downshift the 4 cylinder compared to the V6 it'll go over the Grapevine here in So cal at 80+ with no problems.
  • If you plan on selling your truck every few years, the 6 cylinder would be the way to go because of resale. A 6 will turn over less RPM's than a 4 on the highway. So that means the 4 cylinder is working a little harder to get you from point A-B. If you don't drive highways/freeways very often, it becomes a moot point.

    Just my input. Good luck on your purchase.
  • slibs66slibs66 Posts: 3
    Good point, especially since the truck will endure many highway miles. The commute alone is 40 miles each way. Not to mention the regular stops in between.

    Thanks for your input!
  • slibs66slibs66 Posts: 3
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    First of all, I will never own another regular cab truck. The front seat position is better in extended cabs for one thing. Second, there is always something you want to have in out of the weather when the front seat is full of people or secured at the mall without having to move it in and out of the back. Stuff in the back seat don't blow away either.
    The 4 banger is going to work harder and not get that much better mileage unless you are constantly driving downhill with the wind behind you.
    You my be right about the advertising. A better vehicle does give off a success feeling.
    I can't give a maintenance projection, but from experience, a Toy is low maintenance no matter what the engine. Spend a few bucks to keep it up, and it will pay you back many times over (even if you own a Hyundai).
  • martelmartel Posts: 3
    granted, I have not test drove yet, BUT...

    I am looking for a pickup for general use and firewood hauling. I still do a bit of a commute (48 miles), so I am looking for fuel efficient small pickup. many are trying to push me twd the ranger b/ it is a lot less expensive (grad student- tight budget), but i feel very drawn to the tacoma and I do love bearbones.

    We have a taco near by at a dealer:

    03 black
    38,000 miles
    2wd
    5 spd
    am/fm
    no ac
    bedliner
    allegedly excellent condition
    $7,995

    a little feedback: what do you think of this truck, specs etc. for a stripped down base model with low miles is this a good price? what price could I legitimately push twd?

    (sad part is it has really BAD decals on both sides. If i removed these would the paint likely be dramatically different?)
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    edmunds, kbb, nada should tell you if the price is right...38k? you'll get a lot of use on that truck, but find one with a/c if u can.
  • cccompsoncccompson Posts: 2,388
    They made these without air? Woundn't have thunk it. The price is probably ok but understand that you are likely getting married to it.

    Glue from most decals soaks down into the paint so removal may result in a worse problem.
  • martelmartel Posts: 3
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    No A/C means no sale...
  • I am looking at buying a tacoma probably 99-2002 as my funds are limited to about $10-11K. I am 43 years old and starting school to go into the ministry and I am laid off. I have to do this right the first time and have been reading websites like these for about 6 months. I know people who use this website know what they are talking about. I need to find the most dependable truck and I don't know if one year is better than another and what matters with mileage or what to look out for. I not a wrench head. I do know this is the kind of truck I want. I have a small boat about 1200 lbs max to pull. My plan is to get V-6 automagtic with TRD Pkg. I am an avid outdoorsmen and fish year round and need the off road capabilities. I can't tell how much I would appreciate some direction here. Thank you kinkdly for those who respond to me and my email is [email protected]
    again thanks!!
  • Im looking into a Tacoma and i was just wondering what year and how many miles did everyone buy their truck with? Also i have read many reviews on the Tacoma and i have read alot of good things and some bad stuff but i was wondering if anyone can come up with any other bad things about the truck even if they are small. all that information would be greatly apprecatied.
  • atlvibeatlvibe Posts: 109
    Tell pops that you right on this one. First,the perception if used for business will make a difference. Second,the in the factors of enjoyment, performance, and re-sale you are again correct. The Pre-runner V-6 is money well spent. Gas mileage difference will be little. Sorry Pops, sometimes son knows best.
  • HI
    I was wondering if any one knew what the Real dealer cost is for a basic 07 Tacoma? I know a lot of figures are thrown about. What is the actual amount that the dealer writes the check to the Toyota Motor company for a Tacoma?

    Thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Unfortunately, Toyota dealers don't buy their vehicles from Toyota. Each region of the US has a distributor who the dealers buy from. Their system is unique compared to most automakers in that regard. You can use the Edmunds invoice price as your baseline, but the dealer is not obligated to tell you what they actually pay.

    Be sure and stop by the Toyota Tacoma: Prices Paid & Buying Experiences discussion to see how others are doing with their purchase price.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • I Am aware of the useless Edmunds invoice price, Thats NOT what I want to know. If you don't know the answer DONT repsond!!!
    I have already looked at the Toyota Tacoma Prices
    thread.
    Max
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    Good luck in your quest for a dealer to stop by and tell you exactly what he/she paid for each base Tacoma on the lot. Quite frankly, that's not going to happen. Additionally, it is likely that the final price that a dealer pays varies, and may be based on a number of factors such as location and/or sales volume.

    Also, getting snippy with those who try to assist you makes it less likely that knowledgeable members will bother to answer your questions. If we can help you with other pricing questions, or questions about the vehicle, we'd certainly be happy to point you in the right direction.

    MODERATOR

    Need help navigating? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Hi
    Thanks for the email. IF you DON'T know what a Dealer writes the check to purchase a car from the Manufacturer for, Then Don't respond!!! Who said anything about asking a dealer for this? That was the whole point of looking for the info here. Snippy? Just answer the question, if you know next time, and not giving me something totally unrelated to what I want to know. Edmunds must be bought and paid for by the car companies.
    I was at the car buying forum, That thread had no value to me.
    MAX
  • Hey Max,

    She (kirstie s) is the host of this forum, and she's trying to help you, so chill out...(ALL CAPS MEANS SHOUTING< OK?) What the dealer really, truly pays is something between the dealer and mfr, and they will never tell you, trust me..you'd have as much luck getting codes from the military for smart bombs. I bought an '07 Tacoma two weeks ago, and you may as well figure on paying close to retail,as these trucks are in very high demand everyhwhere and hold their value much more than any other midsize/compact brand--$400-$600 less than MSRP is usually about right for a new one.As long as the price is in the ballpark and you get the truck you want, no worries. I'm happy as a clam with my truck, and nickel and diming it to death at this point would take the pleasure out of owning it.
  • I purchased 2007 PreRunner V6 auto Double Cab with package E with 22,000$ (listed 25,550)in Houston aera. I am not sure if this can help you or not.
  • Im in the market to but a Tacoma V6 4x4 Access cab, TRD package, trailer towing package. To start my search I contacted Costco's auto buying system which ended up with a saleman calling me in the Kern county area of California. At first I hesitated to call back since the last thing I wanted to do was talk with a salesman. After about 5 messages I called back to see what they could do. I was a bit surprised as the saleman was very honest with what models he had in stock. He also gave me the low down that he would sell for $100 over dealer invoice. He went as so far to quote me some figures over the phone.

    OK so I go down to the dealer and see him face to face. He actually has the exact 2006 or 2007 model that I want. He lets me know buying a 2006 means $750 cash back and it's also a bit less expensive. Even even goes so far as to check on financing for me (my request not his). 7% interest on 60 months was not that bad via Toyota direct.

    OK so here are the figures which might be helpful for those interested in this sort of truck:

    Access Cab V6 4X4 2006
    Base Retail $23690
    Dealer $21024
    Trd Package Retail $3755
    Dealer $3010
    V6 Tow package Retail $650
    Dealer $520
    Carpet Maps R3tail $170
    Dealer $104
    Destination charge $605

    So the total Dealer Invoice as im told is
    $25266 plus then tax and license.

    While the dealer invoice costs may be what you find in guides, websites and books im sure there are costs, incentives etc. that the dealer still gets. The small issue I have is the OTHER extras the dealer wants to charge for.

    TDA $263
    Gasoline $10 Im told this is what the dealer has to pay
    Dealer Holdback $473
    Whsl. Financial Reserve $236

    Plus the $100 over invoice makes the total.

    So I have another $1082 that the dealer wants to tack onto the so called invoice.

    So normally the retail would be $28870 w/destination and options. My price with the extra tack ons is $26348

    Plus regardless of retail of the discount price Toyota has a
    $750 rebate till 12/02 so that brings my total to

    $28120 Retail
    $25598 The dealer offer via Costco

    $2522 Saving

    There is still sales Tax and registration fees.

    If anyone has done better then this it would be nice to know. I think this is the only way to see how low dealers can go is by comparing deals.

    Thank you
  • DO NOT PAY THE HOLDBACK !!! The dealer's holdback amount is an amount that they will be paid by the local Toyota Distributor...it is basically automatic-built in profit to the dealership from the manufacturer/distributor. I don't know where you live, but in the southeastern states, the distributor is Southeast Toyota LLC, who distributes the vehicles from Toyota to the local dealerships (sorry, but I don't know all of the states involved in this scheme), but what SET does, is they add, as you may have read in other posts, the Toyoguard or Toyoguard Plus packages to the vehicles they distribute at a non-negotiable cost of $600-$700 per vehicle. The basic Toyoguard Package is undercoating, Scotchgard Fabric protector, paint sealant(read: overpriced wax job), and a bottle of Toyoguard paint sealant cleaner (bottled mineral spirits). The Toyoguard Plus adds roadside assistance, rental car coverage, and your first oil change FREE (yeah, right...) Many times, SET will charge an additional charge for floor mats of various sorts (which I believe Toyota is the only car maker that doesn't include them from the factory), as well as a $20-$25 fuel surcharge. Mind you, these MANDATORY package prices are NOT NEGOTIABLE and are in addition to the manufacturer's non-negotiable destination charge from the factory. Southeast Toyota has got a great (for them) money-making racket going on here. As for the original note about holdback, holdback is an amount that MOST manufacturers pay a dealership for selling their vehicles. This amount is generally 2%-4% of base MSRP (not including destination charge). Also, any decent dealership should fill your gas tank before you leave their lot (if this what the $21.00 gas charge is for), though it may be a fuel surcharge from the delivery company. Hope that heps answer some of your questions, but whatever you do, do not pay the holdback charge....the dealer is trying to double-dip you to make up for the "$100.00 over invoice." Besides, you will never know the dealerships true invoice price. No matter what you've read, or what the showroom shark tells you, you won't know their true invoice price. The reason for this is that are frequently factory to dealer incentives that the dealer nor manufacturer is obligated to tell you about (and this ends up as a direct discount to the dealer), as well as holdback amounts, and the fact that a dealership's sales volume affects their new vehicle allocation and cost. Basically, the more vehicles they sell, the more vehicles they can order and for a lower cost per vehicle. So good luck getting the true price, but the best thing you can do is negotiate as low as you can until you feel you've made the best deal possible. After all, even if a dealership says "this price is $100.00 over invoice," he still has to pay a commission to the showroom shark, dealer principal, sales managers, power bill, water bill, lot porters, detail people, that beautiful showroom, property tax, etc. Note: parts and service personnel are generally paid from their own departments, hence why I did not include them). The dealer can't cover all of these expenses (let alone earn a profit) at $100.00 over invoice. Just when you think you actually bought that shiny new truck and the dealer only made $100.00....think again.....they probably made at least $800.00-$1000.00 in one way or another.....they're not going to sell a vehicle unless they make a decent profit off of the deal. Just get the best price you can, if you can drive away from the dealership and feel good and confident that you got a good deal, then leave it at that. Good luck to you...
  • Avoiding this package is a good way to save $$$ if you can live without the cosmetics--yes, I realize that many functional options come with these packages, but I actually like the utilitaian look of the base model, and Toyota really I don't even need power locks or mirrors(something else to break)--my X-cab V-6 auto came with floormats--that's it..I am going to have cruise retofitted to it for about $200, other than that, it will do nearly as well at anything else as a $29000 Taco will.......
  • marcusxmarcusx Posts: 22
    "DO NOT PAY THE HOLDBACK !!! The dealer's holdback amount is an amount that they will be paid by the local Toyota Distributor..."

    How do you avoid paying it though...will the dealer accept it if you insist you won't pay it? Great post, btw. I found this chart of various holdback percentages from various dealers: http://www.safecarguide.com/gui/neg/holdback.htm

    --
    Marcus
    http://www.TacomaWorld.com/
  • tacovivatacoviva Posts: 116
    Why on earth would anyone be against a dealer making a profit? Last time I checked they're in it to make money. I don't work for, nor am I affiliated with any dealer, but there is tremendous value in the tacoma even at invoice price. I paid 24,700 +TTL (2300 off invoice) for an 06 DC 4WD with SR5 package #2, LSD, carpet mats (these mats are cheeeeaaap), and some other port add ons.

    Anyway, the dealer isn't ripping anyone off. They sell good products at competitive prices. Do your research and you should pay somewhere around invoice. You'll be happy, the dealer will be happy and you can rest assured that you've purchased a fine product.
  • In most cases you probably won't ever know that you're paying it or not. I should have been more specific that if the dealer is itemizing holdback amount on the contract, then I would dispute and refuse to pay that amount. The only problem is that the dealership will always make up their extra profit in one way or another. But I would lower my offer by whatever the holdback amount is because it is an itemized amount that the dealer is already going to be paid by the manufacturer.
  • I have absolutely nothing against a dealership making a profit, that's why they are in business. I worked for auto dealerships for approx 10 years. The problem isn't in the fact that they make a profit on every vehicle sold, but a matter of HOW MUCH profit they make. First off, the invoice price that you think the dealership pays is NOT what they really pay for that vehicle. The dealership makes a HUGE profit on extended warranties, financing(dealers sometime get a kickback for lenders for locking purchasers into loans), pinstriping, window tinting, the base vehicle you purchase, the options on the vehicle you purchase, GAP insurance, vehicle replacement coverage, and the list goes on. The biggest money maker, most times, is the resale of your trade-in vehicle. If you trade in a decent trade, the dealership stands to make several thousands of dollars on the resale of your trade that they may have low balled you on. The biggest problem with the auto industry is that there is no need to legally disclose all forms of profit. Remember the days before darn near every dealership charged "Documentation Fees?" This charge is nothing more than recouping profit lost in selling you that vehicle at invoice price. Dealerships did not used to do that (and some still don't), because that is a cost of doing business. We would probably be pretty upset if we shopped at Wal-Mart, read the receipt back..."Hmm...dozen eggs, AA batteries, gallon of milk, tax, cashier interaction fee, receipt preparation fee, greeter smiling fee, cart usage fee..." It's all the same thing of "What else can we charge the consumer for?" We would certainly complain at Wal-Mart about these frivolous charges, but car dealers are allowed to do this and get away with it. Again, I have absolutely nothing against a dealership earning a profit...they have to, but it's the ways that dealerships do it, and the lying and deceptions that are an issue. When the salesperson comes back to you and says "I'm sorry, we can't sell it for $500.00 less." Don't believe it....they most certainly can. They're simply not willing to make $4000.00 profit on your trade-in instead of $4500.00. It's all a matter of juggling numbers.
  • wow! you bought yours at $2300 below invoice??. I thought I got a good deal by getting $100 below invoice. They also tried to make me pay for a VIP package which wasn't listed on the invoice but I refused and they accepted. I'm pretty happy with my deal but
    Can you explain more on how you got that deal?
  • Im in California, you can contact me directly from my profile and I'll give you the dealer info to get a similar deal. It appears that in some cities in Cal the Tacoma is not as hot of a seller and there for some dealers are more open to discount the truck.
  • That explains it. I'm from Seattle, WA and I had a hard time just looking for the exact model and color truck I wanted. Only one dealer had it. Most dealers close by were also out of V6 manual trans. so i think its just a hot seller around my town. I'll check farther cities next time i shop around.
    thanks for the info!
  • I had a similar problem at first, being in the Los Angeles area some dealers had more stock then others and some more 4x4 models. I did not want to publicly post the dealer I used since I felt they would then sell all their stock. But it might make sense to buy in another state as the dealer still bills your home state tax not the local tax. Also all the trucks are now the same state to state smog wise.
  • tacovivatacoviva Posts: 116
    Sure......well this is off the invoice they show you (not what they really paid for it). BTW, how much money a dealer has in a vehicle depends on many things, most of which is the time on the lot. In fact many dealers trade vehicles routinely to prevent a single on from staying in one palce for too long.

    I started to negotiate form invoice. I deducted the rebate (1500) and negotiated an additional $843 off as well. It's not that hard if you don't get tied up in the details and attached to any one vehicle (or option). Mine listed for about 29.5 and my price was 24.7. That was a cash deal since I had no trade. They mitigates any funny number games and makes it faster to take delivery. But I payed full taxes.
  • can you tell me the dealer name and what will be a good price for a tacoma truck 2wd no TRD.
    Thank you.
  • I'm in NC, this Greensboro dealer posts what they say is their invoice on all Toyotas you browse thru their website. www.ricetoyota.com
  • Can you tell me the name of the dealer in S. California that was willing to negotiate.
    I'm looking to get a Tacoma 2x4 Double Cab long bed with an SR5 #2. Thank you
  • email me
  • I'm trying to decide if I should by a Tacoma work truck. I'm looking for a 6 cyl 6 foot bed. I'm not even sure if you can get a 6 cyl Tacoma. Is there a big difference in price between the Tacoma and Tundra? I was set on a Ford 150 but I noticed that the Toyota seems to have better prices. Any suggestions on any of this? Thanks
  • Tacomas come in both 4 and 6 cylinder versions. Long and short bed as well as 2 and 4 wheel drive. Since the Tundra has just been totally re-designed amd recently released supplies are going to drive the price higher. Thus the cost of a Tundra might be higher with less discounts available. use my profile to email me to contact me and I'll give you a phone number to contact to a Toyota fleet salesman who sold me my Tacoma, he was very open with what cost was and what he would actually sell me the truck for without haggling.
  • Since posting about my experience with Costco I found that the dealers they send you to still vary in price. I was able to find a dealer that had an even lower price then above. Email me for the name and info. The issue will always be what IS the actual cost of the truck you want and then they add their profit. While people will comment on what you should be paying and what price you should get, finding the model and options you want first, then finding a salesman willing to sell it at that price are two different things.
This discussion has been closed.