dodge 4.7 engine
I have a 2000 dodge pick-up with 4.7 engine.
went to change the oil for the first time, and
found heavy condensation on in the oil filter
funnel.
the funnel is plastic attached to the block?
is this the problem?
the dealer says this is normal for this engine?
do not worry?
the oil that drained from the pan had no
condensation.
performance is tops.
best engine I had from dodge
went to change the oil for the first time, and
found heavy condensation on in the oil filter
funnel.
the funnel is plastic attached to the block?
is this the problem?
the dealer says this is normal for this engine?
do not worry?
the oil that drained from the pan had no
condensation.
performance is tops.
best engine I had from dodge
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
robert
Bookitty
I agree with tpeters1 here (and henne, bpeebles, bookitty and a_j in past comments) that this is NOT a desirable engine process by-product. I've raced high performance vehicles (as have a_j and others) for 30 years and have seldom seen this in other engines. My feeling is that with the unique and very tight tolerance design - especially with the long 'vapor holding' oil tube - of this hemi-like engine, that it has just 'happened' in the 4.7. It's another very good reason to switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil, Syntec, etc. You can be sure that D/C will get rid of this problem as soon as they can vent it through some new weird filter thingamajiggy. Of course you and I will pay for it...
Only other episode like this of late has been a friend's Honda Goldwing. He had a dipstick installed in his 10k mile (very nice) 1979 model and it runs across the front of the engine and slightly up to the left. The inside of the cap just below the finger 'loop' has this same sulfur emulsion buildup in it every time he checks his oil. Once again a tight tolerance engine with a long tube attached to the upper crankcase. He thought it was a coolant leak from a blown head gasket causing the emulsion until we ran compression and leakdown tests on the engine. Good news is no pressure leak; bad news is that most bikes should NOT run synthetics due to wet clutch action problems caused by the synthetics, so he's 'stuck' with the problem. Good news is that our 4.7s are not. :-)
thermacguy - wanted to ask if you felt that the cost differential between "premium" mineral (Castrol, Pensoil, etc.) oils vs. the $4+ / quart synthetics is justified? You know your oils.
Bookitty
Synthetic is the way to go for all NEW engines (or newish) - IMHO.
I wouldn't recommend switching to synthetics in older engines or you may discover a long hidden chassis lubrication feature!!
Incidentally, I have driven a lot of Eutopean spec vehicles which tend to have tighter tolerance engines - the need to get more power from smaller engines because of gas prices. I can't recall seeing emulsions in oil before.
Hers was much worse,but her main problem was crud in the return holes in the heads,they were 2/3s clogged with sludge.I checked and cleaned almost all the sludge out,and put Mobil 1 in it.I took the car on a trip for 500 miles,and came back and there was all sorts of junk in it.I changed the oil again,she drove it a month,and I took off the easy valve cove to see what it looked like.It looked Great!Almost spotless,and any sludge I couldn't easily get out was gone.I drained the oil through a cheescloth,and it was dark,but no gunk.
She used Mobil 1 in that car till she died in 95,it had over 100k on it,and was running fine last year,before it was junked due to rust,it was really bad.Her son said it never used any oil,and had 175k+,the speedo died a few months before the car did.The oil pressure was a little low,that was it.
I guess my point is,since it's a plastic tube,it probably just gets normal blow by vapor up in it,and it's cool enough for it to condense and form "goo".
I really wouldn't worry too much about it,use synt,and if there really is a problem,your warranty should cover it,since you reported it before it ran out.
Wonder if the dealers can install these shields or are they built right into the radiator / window washer / fan housing assembly?
nrd525 - Hey, I had a 78 TA 6.6 - weren't those fantastic cars! Wish I still had it...
thesandman - Agreed. With the (much) tighter tolerances in newer engines I see the need for similar change intervals. And if you change petro oils at 3k RELIGIOUSLY (w/o skipping a change EVER) - then I believe that synth oils may be just some mental insurance (in fact a huge expense) in normal use / regular climate type of driving. Petro base stock oils with the higher performance additives (found in synth oils too) are no problem whatsoever. Newer petro oils have improved as well, it's just that the viscosity breakdown occurs much, much sooner in petro oils - like 2k+.
The original problem was seeing gunk in your oil fill on your 4.7L.There is a very simple and effective cure for this...Just take it to Mighty Lube and dont ever look inside there.Problem solved...Hey it's under warranty,right.
And people wonder why I say the beauty of the 318 and 360 is that they were born before I was.
this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.
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