Mercury Cougar Engine Questions



  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Member Posts: 21
    I have 2000 Merc. Cougar, that the temp gauge shows it is overheating. When I check the resevoir bottle, the water is not boiling. I have replaced the radiator, water pump, coolant sensor, temp sensor, all of the belts, have flushed the engine, replaced the thermostat, even put in an aftermarket 160 degree. Still shows that it is overheating. I have also had the entire system pressure tested and it holds the pressure, so no leaks of any kind. Currently am running the car without a thermostat, but here is where it gets interesting.
    When I removed the thermostat, I noticed that the hose that it is attached to is not to the upper radiator hose, like it is supposed to be, but to the lower radiator hose. The upper radiator hose bypasses the thermostat housing and connects to the back of the thermostat housing. My understanding is that the thermostat is supposed to be facing the radiator, and attached to the upper hose. Is this an error made by Mercury. Has anyone else had this type of problem and been able to solve it or had someone solve it? Please, let me know. Thanx in advance for help and advice. :sick:
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    It obvious that your dashboard temperature gauge is bad, perhaps experiencing an electrical short. Mine was doing the same thing (reading hot), finally I just "bopped" it with my fist on top of the dash, then the needle went to the center of the gauge and stayed for a while then while I wasn't looking, it went back to cold, then again, way up to the red. I plan to buy a aftermarket MECHANICAL (not electric or electronic) and install it. I'm not going to worry about the one in the dash. . .it's cheap and defective.
  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Member Posts: 21
    Thanx for the info and advice. I went a purchased an Eqqus guage today, and am going to install it tomorrow. One more question though. Coming out of the water temperature sensor plug are two wires. One is green witha red stripe and the other is grey with a red stripe. The question is which one is the ground the green with the red stripe or the grey with the red stripe? I want to get this right the first time, since it is a tight fit to work in.
  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Member Posts: 21
    I am going to rewire the water temperature sensor to the original gauge, is this a diffifult fix. I do not currently plan to cut off the wires, just splice the new ones on. I think my problems is a short in the wiring, and am going to give this a shot. Let me know if any of you think this is a good idea or a bad one.
  • natalieisiahbnatalieisiahb Member Posts: 1
    Hope you can help, I own the same vehicle and I am currently having the same problems. I have also replaced two alternators and the battery. Someone advised me to change the electrical voltage regulator and that would take care of the problem. Just wondering if you had found out anything about your situation or to see if maybe my advise may help you. Please contact me with a solution to the problem if you found one. e-mail address [email protected] Thanks, Crystal
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    My problem was, the temperature gauge was fluctuating between cold and hot (needle going all the way up to the red area). After checking all the obvious signs of overheating; bubbling or overflowing water bottle, bulging hoses, etc. I realized it was just a bad temperature gauge. It still fluctuates all the way up to the red (hot) area... I have not been paying it any mind. It is not overheating. We have been driving it like that with no problem. And no, I have not yet put in a different temperature gauge. At some point we will put in an after-market MECHANICAL temperature gauge, as opposed to an electrical or electronic one.

    2 years ago, I DID replace the Alternator when it went bad.... by chance I found an unused alternator on eBAY for $30 and I paid a "sidewalk mechanic" $100 to install it right in my driveway - in mid winter no less. For comparison, this would cost approx. $500 at the dealer.
  • sabre422sabre422 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Mercury Cougar has been stalling (especially in the morning after a few kms) and car dealership or garage do not know why. It usually happens in the morning and weather does not seem to influence the pattern. It has also happened in the afternoon when I was turning from the highway (80 km) to a side road. I was able to get on the side road but had no more power steering. Just before it stalls, I can hear a very loud sound and the rpm goes down (it is around 1.5 and the needle goes down). It stalls especially when I am at a red light or stop. This problem is intermittent and never seems to happen when the car is in the garage. Does anyone have an answer?
  • lmoreno3lmoreno3 Member Posts: 21
    Greetings everyone, lmoreno3 here. Just a couple of questions. My sons '00 Cougar with a V6, was showing that it was overheating, after a lot of work done to it, I removed the thermostat, after having it changed three or four times. Cold season is coming up, and I asked him if he wanted me to install a new thermostat, he said what for, the car heater and defroster are working fine. He turned the car on and let it get to operating temp., turned on the heater and the defroster, and warm air was coming out, when he turned up the heat, it came out hot and the car did not overheat. Question, does anyone know how many thermostats this car has? I was under the opinion that it only had one? If it has more than one, where is the other one located?

    Thanx in advance for the help.
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    Your sons cougar probably has a bad temperature gauge; the thermostat is probably fine. I belive there is only 1 thermostat.

    When the Cougar is running hot, give it a good bash on the top of the dashboard right over the Temp. Gauge, it's tricky cause the Dash is curved, but you'll notice that if you bash it good a couple times, the needle might jump right to the correct spot.
  • manutd1manutd1 Member Posts: 2
    So i have been eyeing up a 2000 cougar. its the v6 and has a lil over 100k on it. i have been doing a lil reserch on them and they all seem to have some of the same issues. none seem to be too crazy but some do. i realize that i am buying a higher milage car but i think i will be purchasing a ext. warrenty for it. i would like some feed back from cougar owners on how they like the car esp. post 100k owners. thank you verry much
  • dahltrdahltr Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Cougar that seems to be having the same problem. Chugging, engine light flashing or staying on. It was very minimal starting out but has since gotten much worse. Brought it to a mechanic who first thought there was a misfire in cylinder 3 but after fixing that, the problem continued. Now it is believed to be the camshaft. Getting this fixed tonight hopefully! If you have found another solution/problem, please let me know!
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    Well, it seems like you are jumping the gun a little bit. You should post your question, wait for a series of answers then go about fixing it. You shouldn't just go to a mechanic, let him diagnose and then immediately tell him to start fixing stuff. They love when people do that because when it doesn't fix the problem, you're stuck paying for something that didn't resolve the issue.

    You have added some description of your problem (Chugging, engine light flashing/staying on), but that still is pretty vague.... can you describe more?

    Our 1999 Cougar was "bucking" hard! but only after driving normally for a good 10 minutes or so, and it really felt like a bad transmission (which I had already ostensibly rebuilt twice). It turns out I only needed to replace a $45 Sensor, I think it was the Neutral Safety Switch or Manual Lever Position Sensor. The dealer wanted to charge me $150 to replace this, but I did it myself in the driveway in about an hour. FREE, and is totally solved the problem.
  • dahltrdahltr Member Posts: 3
    Well I haven't had to pay for anything....yet... I brought it in and they hooked it up to diagnostics machine to see why the check engine light was on and they told me (misfire cyclinder 3) so I replaced all the spark plugs (which were pretty shot) and that seemed to help for awhile but the problem started again. The problem being the engine chugging during idling, slow accelerating, and pretty sporadic times while driving. The chugging gets much better or goes away the harder you accelerate. Also, the check engine light would flash several times after a series of chugging and sometimes it would turn off but sometimes it stays lit after the flashing has stopped. Again, brought it in to try to diagnose the reason for the check engine light flashing/staying on and it still read misfire cyclinder 3. Replaced coil for the 3rd cylinder but problem still exists and seems to be worsening. Now, my car bucks me pretty hard during the periods of chugging and it doesn't seem to respond right to acceleration. Sometimes the acceleration is way behind, or almost flooring it will only cause the car to speed up very slowly and steadily.

    At this point, I am just worried that if the problem gets much worse I will end up stalled on the side of the freeway when it's below zero outside! My uncle is the one who thought it was a bad cam sensor, but we really have no idea. I have been searching for answers/possible avenues all day but I am planning on bringing it in for an $85 diagnostics test today to see if we can figure out the real problem, then hopefully I can just take care of it myself without paying $200+ for the mechanic to do it.
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    Dahltr. . .

    Look, same thing was happening to my 1999 (200,000 miles).. I first did a diagnostic OBD check, then I brought it to Pep Boys brand new Garage; they charged me 100 for a diagnostic check, then they said there was an exhaust sensor disconnected. They hooked it up and told me to run it for a while... well I did.. After 10 minutes it started bucking again - HARD bucking, it actually felt like someone was bumping me from behind, that hard. So I just told myself I would research it myself since these guys couldn't do it. I searched all over the web, read everything I could (took 1 day or so). Found people complaining about the same thing and the result was they replaced the sensor that is directly under the thermostat in the engine. It is basically a triangle shaped sensor that is difficult to get at, you need a long socket extension. You'll have to take out the thermostat, push the two hoses aside and there it is... basically just left of the battery.
    I replaced it myself (and I'm an I.T. tech, not a car mechanic). It took about 2 hours cause I was working slow.
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    Go to the NECO Forums (New Edge Cougar Online - NECO), and read this whole thread.... ting-2.html
  • armygirl08armygirl08 Member Posts: 1
    My car seems to have stalled out. I will turn it on to heat up in the morning and go inside and then when i come back out it isnt on. When it does this the brakes go out on it and I lose all steering. My RPMS drop below one unless I keep my foot on the gas. My heat wont work and my lights flash. What could this be?? I am about to have a baby and very frustrated with my car... kinda scares me to drive it and it is makin me mad!!! :mad:
  • saphyrsaphyr Member Posts: 1
    I brought my car in for wheel bearing replacement. I had absolutely no symptoms of transmission issues. when bringing the car around the dealership, the tech suddenly couldn't drive the vehicle. it made a horrible crunching noise. they decided that my transmission/differential is shot. the car is not made anymore so no one can rebuild a transmission. my issue is it's a standard transmission, 100k, no symptoms prior to them having my vehicle. is this really possible? any advice?
  • vinnyg06vinnyg06 Member Posts: 1
    hello my friends mercury cougar overheaded when the thermostat was put on backwards. sadly she kept driving it until it stopped on its own. when i put the diagnostic code reader on the car it said that cylinder number 2 was misfiring. i pulled the spark plugs out to see if they were damaged but it turns on they are in great shape the only thing is they smell and feel with gasoline. i had a mechanic stop by and look at the car and he said that the head gaskets are proubly just shot out and that it needs a new engine. my question for all of you is do i really need a new engine or can i just buy the head gaskets and replace those...all i am missing is combustion, so would that fix the problem???
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    I assume the engine won't start at all? Otherwise, white smoke from the exhaust would indicate a blown head gasket (that's what we had).
    Now that we have done it (2 times, actually), I tend to say it is not TOO big of a job: intake, upper intake manifold, lower intake manifold, motor mount, power steering, AC, crank pulley, alternator (?) (and maybe other stuff I forgot) have to come off to get the cylinder heads off. While off, we had them flow tested and 'squared' (just in case they got warped), and a valve job done. I forgot what the shop estimate was, but my guess is $1,500 or there about.

    We just come off an engine swap, which is not that much more work!
  • aussieechoaussieecho Member Posts: 22
    if the cougar 2000 sits for a few days it might not start. But sometimes it will. Lights and battery look good, cranks nice and easy . Almost like it has no fuel. Last yr the fuel pump was replaced under recall . So dealer is hesitant to do it again. They say it "might" be the idle auto control valve. Can't see why that would prevent starting > any ideas ?
  • mdr93camrymdr93camry Member Posts: 1
    I had driven 4 miles when my 1993 Cougar overheated & started to smoke very badly, also the heater went to cold air. Someone said the therm. was broken into & then replaced it. Last night the car started fine got about 10 miles and done the same thing. I left it on the road, went to move it later but as soon as it started up so did that knocking sound. Would someone please tell me if there is any hope for my car?
  • icanfixitnaticanfixitnat Member Posts: 3
    Hello there! I just wanted to know if you ever got your cougar engine to fire? I'm having the same problem too.
  • icanfixitnaticanfixitnat Member Posts: 3
    I recently changed engines in an 1999 Mercury Cougar. It has no spark. Can anyone give me any pointers on what to check?
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    If you haven't fixed your issue: Your misfires could come from the spark plug wires. On NECO forum, they advise to use the original wires (expansive), but for me it also worked with the less expansive Duralast (Autozone).

    That would be the first (and easy) thing to do, since you already replaced the spark plugs (hopefully using the double platinum ones).

    Did you also get codes for running lean (on one or both banks)?
  • dahltrdahltr Member Posts: 3
    It actually was the spark plug wires - we replaced them all and it fired up like new!
  • dcralldcrall Member Posts: 1
    H just pulled the oil pan on a 1999 mercury cougar 2.5 v6 dohc 99k mi found a amount of sludge two parts of the timing chain guide, plus some brass fileings .. pulled a rod bearing good babbit what in the engine could be wearing ? brass?
  • cougar21cougar21 Member Posts: 1
    My daughter's 2002 mercury cougar has been running fine until the other day, it just died and now wont crank at all. It doesnt turn over at all. We put a new starter on it, thinking that may be the problem, and it has a new battery. All of the lights come on and the door dinger still dings. Not long ago had a bucking issue and we replaced all of the spark plugs and it has been running great ever since, but now this problem...Please help, anyone.
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    Have you tried to see if the starter gets voltage when you attempt to crank?
    I would assume not, since a new starter did not fix the problem.
    I know that you have to press the brake pedal to close a relay to get voltage to the starter, AND the shifter has to be in P or N.

    since no voltage gets to the starter, I would check on those circuits (brake pedal switch/wire/relay, shifter position switch/wire/relay.

    If those are ok and want to send voltage to the starter motor, I am sure there is a big fat relay that handles the full amps of the starter. If that relays gets voltage (from the ECU/PCM) to close, its either the relay or the wires from the relay to the starter. If it does NOT get voltage to close, its in the circuits before (brake switch, shifter).
  • lolakittylolakitty Member Posts: 4
    on 97 cougar xrl 93K miles. had tune up new plug and wires, then check eng light came back on. mechanic put it on computer and checked and got E vap (vac?) code. He told me it was OK to continue to drive and not do anything about this code unless i want to investigate further as it is related to the emissions, said I can ignore check engine light and specifically said " this will not harm your engine in any way". so i ignore the check eng light and keep driving car. since he did tuneup it runs better. but i am worried about the check eng lite and ignoring it. any takers on this one? also - the other day i pulled into a gas station and when the attendant was unscrewing the gas cap my auto door locks started going up and down and the trunk popped open. never had this before. anyone ever heard of this and what could have caused it? a fuse maybe? engine was still on. :confuse: thanks in NJ
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    I would also agree the Evap code (what is the code number, like P0320). But one word of caution: on my previous older car, I had the check engine light on (ABS sensor). Then let kids (own and others) use the car for a month. No one noticed (since the CEL was always on) that the oil pressure had dropped to near zero and check the engine oil. Lost the engine in the process.

    So check codes regulalry (get OBDII code reader cheap from ebay).

    Here are the codes:
    Re: Engine codes
    P1000 OBD-II Monitor Testing Incomplete
    P1001 KOER Test Cannot Be Completed
    P1039 Vehicle Speed Signal Missing or Improper
    P1051 Brake Switch Signal Missing or Improper
    P1100 Mass Air Flow Sensor Intermittent
    P1101 Mass Air Flow Sensor out of Self-Test Range
    P1112 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Intermittent
    P1116 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is out of Self-Test Range
    P1117 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Intermittent
    P1120 Throttle Position Sensor out of range
    P1121 Throttle Position Sensor Inconsistent with Mass Air Flow Sensor
    P1124 Throttle Position Sensor out of Self-Test Range
    P1125 Throttle Position Sensor Intermittent
    P1127 Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater not on During KOER Test
    P1128 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed
    P1129 Heated Oxygen Sensor Signals reversed
    P1130 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 1
    P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
    P1132 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
    P1135 Ignition Switch Signal Missing or Improper
    P1137 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
    P1138 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 1
    P1150 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Adaptive Fuel Limit - Bank No. 2
    P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
    P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
    P1157 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2
    P1158 Lack of Downstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2
    P1220 Series Throttle Control fault
    P1224 Throttle Position Sensor B out of Self-Test Range
    P1230 Open Power to Fuel Pump circuit
    P1231 High Speed Fuel Pump Relay activated
    P1232 Low Speed Fuel Pump Primary circuit failure
    P1233 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
    P1234 Fuel Pump Driver Module off-line
    P1235 Fuel Pump Control out of range
    P1236 Fuel Pump Control out of range
    P1237 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
    P1238 Fuel Pump Secondary circuit fault
    P1250 Lack of Power to FPRC Solenoid
    P1260 Theft Detected - Engine Disabled
    P1270 Engine RPM or Vehicle Speed Limiter Reached
    P1288 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor out of Self-Test Range
    P1289 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Greater Than Self-Test Range
    P1290 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Signal Less Than Self-Test Range
    P1299 Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor Detected Engine Overheating Condition
    P1309 Misfire Detection Monitor not enabled
    P1351 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor circuit Input fault
    P1352 Ignition Coil A - Primary circuit fault
    P1353 Ignition Coil B - Primary circuit fault
    P1354 Ignition Coil C - Primary circuit fault
    P1355 Ignition Coil D - Primary circuit fault
    P1356 Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Module Input to PCM
    P1358 Ignition Diagnostic Monitor Signal out of Self-Test Range
    P1359 Spark Output circuit fault
    P1364 Ignition Coil Primary circuit fault
    P1380 VCT Solenoid Valve circuit Short or Open
    P1381 Cam Timing Advance is excessive
    P1383 Cam Timing Advance is excessive
    P1390 Octane Adjust out of Self-Test Range
    P1400 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Low Voltage
    P1401 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit High Voltage
    P1403 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor Hoses Reversed
    P1405 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Upstream Hose
    P1406 Differential Pressure Feedback Electronic Sensor circuit Downstream Hose
    P1407 EGR No Flow Detected
    P1408 EGR Flow out of Self-Test Range
    P1409? EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit malfunction
    P1409? Electronic Vacuum Regulator Control circuit fault
    P1410 EGR Barometric Pressure Sensor VREF Voltage
    P1411 Secondary Air is not being diverted
    P1413 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit Low Voltage
    P1414 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
    P1442 Secondary Air Injection System Monitor circuit High Voltage
    P1443 Evaporative Emission Control System - Vacuum System - Purge Control Solenoid or Purge Control Valve fault
    P1444 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input Low
    P1445 Purge Flow Sensor circuit Input High
    P1450 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
    P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
    P1452 Inability of Evaporative Emission Control System to Bleed Fuel Tank
    P1455 Substantial Leak or Blockage in Evaporative Emission Control System
    P1460 Wide Open Throttle Air Conditioning Cutoff circuit malfunction
    P1461 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit Low Input
    P1462 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor circuit high Input
    P1463 Air Conditioning Pressure Sensor Insufficient Pressure change
    P1464 ACCS to PCM High During Self-Test
    P1469 Low Air Conditioning Cycling Period
    P1473 Fan Secondary High with Fans Off
    P1474 Low Fan Control Primary circuit
    P1479 High Fan Control Primary circuit
    P1480 Fan Secondary Low with Low Fans On
    P1481 Fan Secondary Low with High Fans On
    P1483 Power to Cooling Fan Exceeded Normal Draw
    P1484 Variable Load Control Module Pin 1 Open
    P1500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent
    P1501 Programmable Speedometer & Odometer Module/Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent circuit-failure
    P1502 Invalid or Missing Vehicle Speed Message or Brake Data
    P1504 Intake Air Control circuit malfunction
    P1505 Idle Air Control System at Adaptive Clip
    P1506 Idle Air Control Over Speed Error
    P1507 Idle Air Control Under Speed Error
    P1512 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
    P1513 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Closed
    P1516 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
    P1517 Intake Manifold Runner Control Input Error
    P1518 Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Open
    P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
    P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control circuit fault
    P1519? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault - Stuck Closed
    P1520? Intake Manifold Runner Control fault
    P1530 Open or Short to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit
    P1537 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
    P1538 Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open
    P1539 Power to A/C Compressor Clutch circuit Exceeded Normal Current Draw
    P1549 Intake M
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    Lately this Cougar (150,000miles) has a slight misfire at 2000 rpm at low speeds and twice the CEL came on with code P0401 which seems to be EGR Flow Insufficient.
    I replaced the EGR valve but the misfire still exists. The CEL has not come on again yet but probably will eventually. Any suggestions?
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    I may have solved it myself. I found another message that if the throttle body is taken out there are three control holes right inside that get clogged with carbon. All three holes were really caked up on mine. The car has never liked coasting at 2000rpm and then being accelerated even just slightly and that is still there, but the more noticeable misfire seems gone. I'll have to drive it awhile
  • stanokiestanokie Member Posts: 1
    i have a 97 cougar v-8 4.6 L. The problem is erratic idle in park91100 rpm) and 8-900 rpm in drive. i have replaced the IAC. the problem is not continous. the check engine light does not come on. please help thanks
  • mebethymebethy Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,
    My daughter has a 1995 Cougar. For a few days her key was not turning and she had to wiggle it and pray to get it to turn. Today when she did get it to turn it not only DIDNT start the car (good battery and started been tested) its making a grinding type noise. HELP please!!!!!!
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    The key not turning is one issue. Ours is getting worse too. Wiggling the steering wheel still helps. Ultimately, a new lock may be needed (quite expensive I would assume).

    The grinding noise is worse: we had this issue, put a new starter in, but didn't help. Over time, it got so bad that we had to 'wiggle' the car back and forth (transmission in 'drive' to move the gears of the flywheel a bit to allow the start teeth to mesh in. That worked for a few month, progressively getting worse (since all the grinding naturally wears the teeth of the flywheel/flex plate out even more).

    At the end, we had to pull the engine out and replace the flywheel/flex plate.

    You can start with a new starter (already quite some work to remove parts to get to the starter), hoping its the starter.

    When we pulled the motor, we decided to install a new motor at that time (much less miles; ours had already 140,000 mls on it).

    Oh: is it really a 95 Cougar (old style)? My notes refer to the newer style (after 1998) !!!!
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    Assuming the key has something to do with this, spray some lock lubricant or WD40 or something like 3and1 oil into the lock. Work the key in and out a number of times.
    I did eventually have to replace the lock on my 2001 Cougar. Any good locksmith can order that lock. If you go to Ford they only have a set of all locks on all doors for about $300.
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    Back again. Have returning P0401 CEL. Getting some misfire at 2000 rpm with slight acceleration. Also may have some misfire at higher speeds but not sure. Replacing EGR valve did not help. Some posts suggest replace the DPFE but some guys report not finding that and I can't find it either. I have the shop manual which shows it under the egr valve mounted on the engine. Does not seem to be there. There are two devices mounted on the manifold, one nearest the EGR valve but unidentified and then next to that is the Vacuum regulator.
    Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    Went to a Ford dealer and his photos are the same as my manual with the DPFE under the EGR valve bolted to the engine block. The parts guy was kind enough to go out to the car and point out a very small plastic DPFE that is not attached to anything and is just around the corner under a cylindrical sensor (which has to be removed to get to the DBFE). This smaller version has one electrical connection and two short hoses that go down to outlets from the EGR tube. Engine runs a lot better now. Apparently they used this plastic version for part of the 2001 model year.
  • lilblackcoupelilblackcoupe Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    I have a 99 Cougar V-6 with a manual trans and I am only getting air to the defrost vent in the dash. I have read in this forum that it could be a vacuum line. If anyone knows which one or can send pics of the location, that would be great. I have a couple of vacuum lines that are broken or unattached and I am sure one of them belongs to this problem. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • maejinmaejin Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2002 Cougar V6. Coolant sensor is not in the overflow bottle. Does anyone know where the sensor is?
  • vtraudtvtraudt Member Posts: 52
    Should be on the front side of the overflow bottle. It sits a bit low. The connector is one of those where you need to push in the metal/wire clamp to pull it off.
  • avp0713avp0713 Member Posts: 8
    I thought it was on the drivers side of the engine, connected to the Block, near the thermostat hose. That's where mine was, and I replaced it. Perhaps i'm talking about a different sensor? It was a large brass screw-in sensor with a harness wire connected to it.
  • maejinmaejin Member Posts: 11
    thx for the posting but my overflow bottle does not have a sensor
  • maejinmaejin Member Posts: 11
    thx for posting...I will let my mechanic look in that area.
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    The coolant bottle is on the passenger side just behind the fill tube for the window washer. In between these two about six inches down are some wires, one of them connects to the coolant sensor.
  • maejinmaejin Member Posts: 11
    Thx for posting, However, the overflow bottle was taken completely out...inspected and cleaned...there is NO sensor
  • rhowellrhowell Member Posts: 1
    2002 2.5L v6 Cougar died while driving. Engine cranks but will not fire. After 30 seconds of cranking battery dies. Recharged battery and within 30 seconds battery dies. Replaced crank sensor and ignition coil, tested battery OK. Engine still will not fire.
  • aussieechoaussieecho Member Posts: 22
    99 cougar runs good and quiet all summer and now with the first chilly frost, it squeals turning out of the garage and that usually precedes the no start problem. Had it towed to the dealer , couldn't find fault. Drove it home ok. Seems like a lot of moisture coming out of exhaust all yr long.
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    Check the fuel pump. There was a recall of fuel pumps about that time and my 2001 V6 Cougar died on me on the road for just that reason.
    As for the battery, i'd say it needs replacement.
  • decrottydecrotty Member Posts: 15
    If your first cold day is in late December you must live far south of me here in Northern Ky. The squeal as you turn out of the garage has to be the belt to the steering pump.
    The moisture in the exhaust could be a leaking head gasket. Take out all the spark plugs and see if one of them is wet or if water comes out of one of them as someone else cranks the engine. Look closely at the oil fill cap for white foamy moisture, another indication of a gasket leak.
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