Chevy Venture: Doors & Windows
I have a 2004 Venture and on ocassion the sliding door is very hard to open. It sticks and other days seems better. This has been to the dealership 3 times and they fix it but comes back again. Any suggestions..
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Hopefully someone else has run into this.
Thanks!
John
PS I've also noticed that when I shut the car off the radio stays on and stays on regardless of whether the key is in the ignition, and seems to stay on for a long time if not indefinitely because I can go shopping for hours and come back to the radio still being on.
Anyone know about this and how to fix it?
Passenger side window.
If the window goes down even a crack will not go back up!
anyone?
GM blew it on the window regulator design. The regulator is cheap and designed so it bends very easy. Fix is to replace the regulator. Regulator is a metal sissor like contraption that links the window track to the motor. There are 4 ends on the regulator. One to the motor, two to the window track and one to a plastic frame that screws to the door frame. The problem is the end that goes to the frame is missing a wheel that would allow the regulator to move smoothly. Without the wheel the regulator just scrapes in the frame and allows the regulator to bend. GM just put in a cheap stud that scrapes its way along a plastic raceway in the regulator frame. Very crude and built to fail. Shame on GM. That is why Japanese are beating us to death.
I changed mine myself and it bent again in a couple of weeks. Had to go to Chevrolet to get it fixed @$200. Works okay now.
I am faced with replacing either the regulator or the motor assy (or both) in my 2000 venture tomorrow. It has been bad for a few months but was waiting until the weather got better. The passenger window operates crookedly and erratically from either switch. It makes a somewhat rapid thud-thud-thud-thud when it gets to the top and the switch is still pressed. The noise stops when I release the switch. It has managed to stay up for the last few months and I have not used it at all. I was afraid it would get stuck.
Anyway, I need to investigate it tomorrow. I suspect like Russ23 says that it is the scissors like regulator that is bad, but I want to get it apart first to be sure I have ALL the parts I need before attacking the job. I would've thought the the drivers window would've failed first as it gets much more use than tge passenger window. Is this a difficult job?
The GM shop manual doesn't give a real good R&R procedure for it. Does the assembly come as a whole? Or are there two separate assemblies? IE is the scissors assy attached to the motor etc? I have seen both advertised on the internet separately. The manual also mentions a special tool J-38864 Counterbalance spring removal and installation tool. I know I don't have access to one of these. Do I really need it? Can I make the repair without it? Can I fashion one?
If anyone has some step by step R&R procedures, or some tips or shortcuts, I 'd love to hear from them. Thanks..
P.
That's what mine did twice on a 97 Venture. Each time it's the switch.
They are on Ebay or Car parts places new in the $50 range, delivered. Seems like a very poor design; but it is easy enough to switch out.
THE VENT OPENINGS REFERRED TO ARE THE ONES OUTSIDE, UNDER THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS-NOTE THEY ARE FACING STRAIGHT UP WITH STANDARD HOME SCREEN, NOTHING TO STOP WATER
1. check the plastic piece that fits around the bottom of your windshield. Mine was lifting away and provided the water a straight shot through into the vent. Purchased windshield caulk from auto store and applied liberally where the plastic and glass met.
2. I tried putting a small piece of plastic under the vent openings. I honestly believe it was minimal in effectiveness but still, it was something.
Before I continue, the windshield caulk did very well. We did not have the problem again until tropical storm Hannah hit. There was so much rain it wen right through the vent opening itself. My fix:
seal off the top portion of the vent leavving a small piece open at the bottom to allow for some air flow. (for example duct tape -color matched as closely as possible- can be used) This will allow the water to now flow around the vent and not into it. I have also completely sealed the vents and still had hot/cold air coming in. I am planning on partially closing off the vent as mentioned using a spacer at the bottom of the vent to allow for air, not water to flow.
Other things to look for would be all around the bottom of the windshield, body work. check for teh foam sealer that should be there. If it looks like it needs to be sealed, caulk it. I was worried about looks when I first started on this issue, but now it is a matter of function over form. All teh above steps can be completed and still not look too bad. just take your time with it, plan it out, execute. best of luck.
Take out the dash to the point where I can see the ductwork. Run a hose over the windshield attempting to create my own flooding situation and see if I can determine where the problem is coming from. I personally believe the water found a way under the plastic cowl and into the vent, my gut reaction is to try the following procedure.
Stripping off all window caulk and other fixes. Remove windshield wipers and plastic cowl cover (you will need more body panel clips to reinstall). Inside the large vent openings, I plan to cut a slit/drill holes to provide drainage for water that may enter the vent. I will also be shaping the metal a bit in order to facilitate better drainage.
After the drainage holes are made, I will seal off the entire topside of the vent. The large openings will be covered and sealed in place with polyurethane adhesive. What about the air? the drain holes made will also serve as an added air flow. It may not be the way the vehicle was designed to work, but the original design is obviously flawed. I will post results of this procedure so anyone interested in the issue can stay advised.
First I tried replacing the master switch thinking it was that. Did not help. Next, I obtained wiring diagrams from Haynes and GM themselves to try to trace what probably is a short. That is when I found out that the only thing the front window and the back windows share or ave in common is a ground on the passenger door post between the front and slider. That is it, other wise everything is different, separate fuses, everything. An from everything I can tell is there is nothing wrong with the ground at the door post.
I am open to any suggestions on where to look next. I do not have hundreds of dollars to have a shop try to trace it. Any input will be greatly appreciated! I thank you in advance!
Neither of the two internal lock buttons will lock it, nor will the key fob button lock it.
I've attempted to manipulate the little black lever on the inside of the door handle but it stays put and only indicates the red-tinged area indicating its 'unlocked' status.
It doesn't really interfere with the vehicle's operation in anyway. All the other doors lock. Its just I can't lock the right front door and I don't like it that way!
Anyone have any ideas?
does the other electrical things in your door still work?
check all the wires going to the door lock actuator. If you had a meter the readings across the wires would be 12v for lock and then reverse for unlock. some vehicles wont lock unless the latch is made. so take a screwdriver and manually latch the door latch with the door open and see if the lock can move then.
So, is this something that I should check the wiring under the passenger side carpet?
At the very same time, the interior lights stopped working when I opened the doors. They don't go on automatically at all anymore, but they do work if I press the dome light button.
Unrelated (and not a door window problem): setting three stopped working with air conditioning and heat. Other settings still work.