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Mazda3 Engine Issues

mmitschmmitsch Member Posts: 7
We just got my daughter a used 2004 Mazda 3 4-door sedan. It has a 2.0 liter engine. The car has about 33,000 miles on it. I decided to change the plugs and took out it's old plugs (which were ITR6F13 - not sure which brand) and replaced them with Bosch 4211 Platinum Plugs with a gap = 0.052.

Please give me your input.

Thanks!

Mike
«13

Comments

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    cinzano66cinzano66 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I'm looking to buy a Mazda3. Can't stand the two-toned seats of the S-series, but also don't want to have a weak car in terms of power. Has anybody driven both the 2.0 and the 2.3L models and can attest if there's any difference? Thanks!

    ps.
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    maxidrivemaxidrive Member Posts: 70
    I test drove both. Yes, there's a difference and you can feel it when you step on the accelerator. The car springs forward much more lively and less noisy. It's definitely worth the price difference.
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    peteb2peteb2 Member Posts: 2
    I've driven both the 2.0 sedan and the 2.3 hatchback, and I couldn't tell much difference at all in terms of engine power. The hatchback is about 130 lbs. heavier than the 3i sedan, and that almost completely negates the power advantage. The 2.3 sedan is about 70 lbs. heavier than the 2.0 sedan, so I still don't see much advantage with the bigger engine. Furthermore, the 2.0 gets significantly better fuel economy.

    I think that the 2.3 may have made more sense for the 2004-2005 models since it was the only engine with variable valve timing, which gives you more power at lower engine speeds. Mazda added VVT to the 2.0 for 2006, so that's not an issue anymore.

    I just wish that the hatchback was available with the 2.0L engine.
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    z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    I did not like the checker board square pattern of the seats at first - but after a few weeks you will not even notice them - my wife also though they looked strange - but my teenage daughter like them.

    I will say this - after 2+ years the seats still look new - the cloth has held up much better than I expected. I seem to recall telling my wife something like - Don't worry about the checkered seats - they look like they won't last very long - and then we can get after market leather put in. The factory leather (back in 2004 anyway) was the lowest quality I have ever seen in a vehicle - hard as a rock + slippery - it looked like it was coated with plastic.

    As far as engine power - go drive both and see for yourself!
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    aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    There is a bit of difference between the 2.3 and the 2.0. Mostly in the sedan version. Not only is it definitely quicker, it is also quieter. There are cassette sized counter balances placed on the crank shaft that act to reduce engine vibration, hence less noise.

    I would not really say gas mileage is a huge issue, we are talking about 3mpg here...not 10mpg.

    I saw another poster talk about VV-T. The gain with the VV-T for 2006 is only 2hp over the previous 2 years. Not a big difference.

    I would buy the s model simply because it looks nicer, better resale value, and more power. It's worth the extra money, IMHO.
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    cinzano66cinzano66 Member Posts: 2
    looks nicer? i thought they were the same in terms of body and styling ... no?
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    cephmecephme Member Posts: 26
    The S has the clear light clusters for the tail lights that really look nice. There may be some other cosmetic differences beyond those and the seats, but I am not sure.
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    slate1slate1 Member Posts: 84
    "The S has the clear light clusters for the tail lights that really look nice. There may be some other cosmetic differences beyond those and the seats, but I am not sure.

    The 3s also has alloy wheels, fog lights, a different grill/bumper and if you go up to the touring or Grand Touring model it also gets side sill extensions.

    I drove a base 3i and a 3s-GT back to back (both manual transmission) and found a noticeable difference between the engine performance.

    I don't know what the leather was like in '04 but I can attest that the '06 leather is every bit as nice or nicer than what is found in the VW's and the Acura RSX.
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    aviboy97aviboy97 Member Posts: 3,159
    The 2.3 has a sport grill, clear "euro" style tail lights, fog lights, electro luminescent gauges, leather wrapped steering wheel, leather wrapped shift knob, "carbon-fiber" look dash trim, and higher quality seat cloth.

    With the S Touring you get 17" wheels, and side sill extensions (side skirts)
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    the1maddogthe1maddog Member Posts: 20
    i have driven both w/ 4 spd auto trans and as some of the others have mentioned, the 2.0 engine isn't quite as smooth as the 2.3. there is a power difference, but it's not huge. i could live w/ either, but the additional refinement in terms of engine smoothness is nice.
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    ronald711ronald711 Member Posts: 44
    I was looking at the 2.9i touring sedan, and I am about getting good gas mileage, been looking at the Toyota's for their reliability, how is the 2.0 sedan engine inthe Mazda's? have they been used in other cars with good sucess, how about transmission? my friend had a 96 Mazda 626 that had transmission problems. Im looking for a car that will be pretty trouble free, and low maintenenace besides routine maintenance. The mazda had the sporty look I like, but Im am not an aggresive driver I drive for gas mileage.
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    ronald711ronald711 Member Posts: 44
    I was looking at the Mazda 3i touring sedan, and I am about getting good gas mileage, been looking at the Toyota's for their reliability, how is the 2.0 sedan engine inthe Mazda's? have they been used in other cars with good sucess, how about transmission? my friend had a 96 Mazda 626 that had transmission problems. Im looking for a car that will be pretty trouble free, and low maintenenace besides routine maintenance. The mazda had the sporty look I like, but Im am not an aggresive driver I drive for gas mileage.
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    the1maddogthe1maddog Member Posts: 20
    the 2.0 engine has been used with great success in the Miata now called the MX-5. the miata has been one of the most reliable cars according to CR.

    the 626's were built in Flatrock, MI while the Miata and 3s are being built in Japan. according to the latest CR ratings, the Mazda 3 highly rated.
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    samtheman1samtheman1 Member Posts: 10
    Recently did a test drive in 2.0 and 2.3 manual and auto trannys. If you are getting the auto, I'd really suggest the 2.3 as it has 5 speed tranny and the auto tranny sucks considerable power from the engine. 2.0 seemed underpowered in the auto.

    I liked both of the manuals much better. You could feel the improved low end torque in the 2.3 (snappier feel), but the 2.0 was not bad. If you don't know how to drive a manual, this is good car to learn on. Clutch and shifter smooth and easy to use. Go test drive them.
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    z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    The stock plugs were NGK

    At a discount auto parts store they are about $10 each

    I just replaced my plugs (same ITR6F13) but went with the ITR5F13 which is one heat range hotter than stock.

    I had some black gunk on my old plugs (22K miles). Hope the hotter plug keeps this burned off. I do alot of short trip / heavy traffic driving.

    So far no real change in how the engine runs & I am still getting around 20 MPG - so I wasted my $40 - no real surprise - I did not expect a miracle!
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    grandadturismograndadturismo Member Posts: 12
    certainly, peak 2hp gain isn't much.

    however, peak is only part of the story.

    if we had Q and HP curves for '06 and '05, we could numerically integrate the Q and HP curves (separately, of course) and see the quantitative effect of the VVT over the entire usable rev range (this, coupled with gear ratios, is why power-to-weight ratios, though valuable, aren't always the best predictor of acceleration). this would give us a better picture of the "numbers". of course, various standing and rolling acceleration times at different speeds and gears would give us an even better idea of the difference (if any).
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    barbpolbarbpol Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2005 Mazda 3 that about a month ago wouldn't start. We had it towed to the dealer and the next day it started fine. The dealer couldn't recreate the problem. Since then, about once a week, the car decides not to start. The lights and radio work fine, but nothing happens when you turn the ignition. No noise, nothing. It's been at the dealer now for a week! and they say it's been working fine. Does anyone have any ideas? How do I handle this with the dealer?
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    z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    This is not a common Mazda3 problem -

    My neighbor had a similar problem with a Pontiac. It would not start - acted like a dead battery - but the lights - horn - radio still worked - tried jump starting but still nothing - not even a click out of the starter.

    So she had it towed - as soon as it got to the shop it would start right up - a dozen or more times with no problem.

    She went though this a second time - and then the mechanic determined it was a starter problem -

    The starter had a "bad spot" on the commutator, the electrical section of the armature that contacts the brushes. When the starter motor was at one spot in its rotation the electrical connection was bad - so no flow of electricity. The motion when the car was towed into the shop was enough to move the parts so that the electrical connection was good enough to work.

    As far as handling it with the dealer that could be tough - has the car ever not started while at the dealer?
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    barbpolbarbpol Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply. The car has never not started when it's been with the dealer. Just letting it sit overnight has been enough to let it start again. The dealer told us today that they're replacing the starter relay. I hope it works.
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    cmalcolmcmalcolm Member Posts: 1
    My 2004 Mazda 3 has been great for 40K miles. About 6 weeks ago and 2 visits to Mazda service/repair the problem has yet to be resoloved. When stopping for a red light (car in drive and brake on) a vibration with a rattle starts and stops as soon as foot lifted off brake. Has anyone had this problem? If so please advise. Thank you, CM in Chicago
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    autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769
    When stopping for a red light (car in drive and brake on) a vibration with a rattle starts and stops as soon as foot lifted off brake.

    I had a similar problem last summer when my PCV went south. My Mazda Protege5 (predecessor to the Mazda3) was basically choking when it was stopped. The solution: install a new PCV (approx. C$350).

    Surprising that your dealership did not identify this as the cause. Perhaps there is another reason in your case. Did you get a diagnostic test done to identify an fault codes?

    Good luck!
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    jintorciojintorcio Member Posts: 6
    I love my 2006 GT hatchback except... It runs like carp for those first few minutes before the engine warms-up. Is this just nature of the beast?
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    rcwittyrcwitty Member Posts: 9
    I love my 2007 S touring sedan, but during acceleration, there seems to be a slight rattle coming from the passenger's side of the car. It wasn't there when I first got the car, but I'm hearing it now 6 months later. It's particularly prominent on the mornings where it's a bit cooler. Anyone have any ideas?
    :(
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Can you be any more specific about the location of the rattle? "passenger's side" doesnt' narrow it down much.

    Maybe you can stop in the chat tonight and run this problem past the assembled brains! :P

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
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    vlstellatovlstellato Member Posts: 3
    I drove both and felt little difference. I ended up buying a 06 mazda3 i touring with the 2.0. I was told by the dealer there is only 12hp between both engines and isn't worth the extra money, I just put a K&N filter in my 2.0
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    ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    I could certainly tell a difference between the two. Not huge, but I could feel it. However, the 2.0 felt plenty powerful enough for me (especially after comparing it to my other top contender, the Mitsubishi Lancer). The added gas mileage and lower sticker price appealed to me more for this purchase - just a commuter car, trying to save my pennies. I'll add a K&N filter when the original needs to be replaced. The 3i Touring package added the key features I really wanted - steering-wheel audio and cruise controls, iPod jack, side airbags, ABS, and 16" alloys. It was a good compromise for my needs. I'm getting 32 mpg and don't miss the extra power and torque 99% of the time.

    The salesman also told me that the 2.0 had better reliability than the 2.3, but I haven't really seen anything to substantiate that. He might have just been trying to convince me I was making a good decision, but even if it's just anecdotal, I'll take it.
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    sadgirl82sadgirl82 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new 2008 Mazda 3 2.0. I have a bit of an issue. I was traveling through New Mexico when a re-tread tire fell out of a tractor trailer. Well unfortunatly I hit it. I drove about a 100 yards and pulled over. My oil was emptied immediatly. I had the tow truck take my vehicle to Ford, since there isnt a Mazda dealership around for the next 100 miles. The ford service department stated that I needed a new oil filter housing. Apparently the oil filter ripped off. I am not much of a mechanic, but I am not sure if I really need a new housing. They gentelman said the threads were all messed up. I talked to a friend that works at Mazda and he stated that I might only have to replace the filter. I didnt know if the housing was plastic or not. I am a little worried, I am traveling back to Fort Lewis, WA. There was a little bit of body damage but nothing major. Im not sure what my car may need, I can't seem to find a photograph of what my oil pan and housing is suppose to look like. the oil pan is fine, thank goodness. But im stuck here till they can get parts according to them.
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    Since the oil filter was basically ripped off, I'd say there's a reasonable chance that the threads are damaged.

    Sure, you MIGHT only have to replace the filter, but without actually getting my eyes on it, there's no way to say one way or the other, so I'd say that if someone actually looked at it and has told you that you need a new housing, that's probably the case.
    By all means have them show you what they mean, but from the incident you desribe, I'd be surprised if there was no damage that needed to be repaired.
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    carjimcarjim Member Posts: 155
    For the life of me I can't find the source where I read that the 2.3 would be replaced by a 2.5 in the Mazda3.

    Perhaps it is a rumor. Ford used a 2.5 in the Contour/Mystique, but it was a six.

    Has anyone on the board heard about a larger engine?
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    ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
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    carjimcarjim Member Posts: 155
    Thanks a million for the link. I couldn't ask for more confirmation than that.

    I will definitely want to test drive one with the 2.5 when they show up.
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    gib11gib11 Member Posts: 47
    t he 2,0liter is used extensively in the MZ6 in Europe ans Asia since 2002, verry reliable. The 2,3liter has more torque than the 2,0liter (150 vs 135)
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    pjadepjade Member Posts: 5
    Just bought a 2008 Mazda3 i touring 4 door sedan. Has anyone noticed a high pitched hum that comes from the left side engine compartment near the fan belt. It is always there but especially hear it when sitting at a stoplight or even if the accessories is on with the engine not running. Can hear it inside the car, but hear it most when standing outside. I talked to Mazda service and they said that this is common on all Mazda3's as it has to do with the electronic power steering - just wondering if anyone else has experienced this? It is kind of odd to consider it normal. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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    nsbio1nsbio1 Member Posts: 75
    Yes, I also noticed that on my 2008 i Touring. The pitch does change when you turn the wheel, so it is consistent with it being power steering. Supposedly, PS on this car is not purely hydraulic but is electric (I am not a techie). To my ear, it is (barely) audible but it sounds normal to me.

    I never actually listened to it from outside the car. Should do it at some point, I guess.
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    pjadepjade Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for your reply. Yes, if you get time you should listen to it from outside the car and see what you think. I took my Mazda to the dealer today and they agreed the noise was a little louder than normal especially after starting 3 other ones that purred like kittens showing no kind of noise. It's going in the shop on Tuesday to investigate and hopefully fix it. I must say right now I'm a little disappointed. I'll keep you posted.
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    mazzz3mazzz3 Member Posts: 1
    PJADE,

    I was wondering if you have heard back about the hum, I too just bought a 2007 i touring model and am experiencing the same sound. Thanks!
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    pjadepjade Member Posts: 5
    Well, Mazda said that either there was air in the power steering system and they would need to bleed the system, if that didn't work it was probably a bad pump so they would replace that. Bleeding the system didn't work so now they have to order a new pump and it's going to be put in Friday. YIKES!!! Anyway, I hope that takes care of it. I'll let you know. Thanks!
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    roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,473
    Bleeding the system didn't work so now they have to order a new pump and it's going to be put in Friday. YIKES!!!

    Relax. It's a simple procedure that will likely fix the problem.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-2021 Sahara 4xe-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
    Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
    Son's: 2018 330i xDrive

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    jami829jami829 Member Posts: 1
    My 2007 Mazda 3 has approx 10,000 miles on it. Today, while I was idling at a red light, it stalled and the check engine, battery and low oil lights all came on. I turned the car off, restarted it and it was fine. I now have to take it in to the dealer to have this checked out. I'm really bothered by this as I drove a 1994 Saturn for 13 years that NEVER stalled once!!!
    Is anyone else having these problems??
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    nascarfan5nascarfan5 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering how does the ac belt come off. It is a 2.3l motor and this belt just wraps the harmonic balancer and the ac compressor pulley. There are no tension pulleys. What gives to get this belt off. Thank you in advance.
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    mporter3mporter3 Member Posts: 1
    this has happened to me three times. the only difference is that with mine, the starter does "click" and again when towed to the dealer they have been able to start it without problems.
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    mazdrvrmazdrvr Member Posts: 112
    The body looks pretty much the same with exception to the front. But, makes me tempted! I want to test drive too. 2.5 liter; at least it makes it .1 better than the new XRS Corolla; can't have a Corolla be faster! Lol. I hope they add on some basic standard features like VSC & a remote trunk release!
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    ayoda5ayoda5 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2008 3s hatchback w/ manual tranmission. Since buying the car in Dec 07 (now have 2800 miles) I have noticed that when the engine is cold during 2 and 3 gear acceleration, the engine acts funny. The best way to describe it is that when I am pressing the gas (say in 3 gear) it accelerate as usual when there is all of the sudden what feels like a bit of a boost in power (almost like when a turbo kicks in). This dissappears when the engine is warmed up. Anyone know why this happens. Is it a problem that may have to be addressed by taking it into the dealership.

    Anyone else experience this kind of issue. Really appreciate any feedback. Thanks.
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    moon7moon7 Member Posts: 2
    I am interested in the Mazda 3 5 door or the new Toyota Matrix with the bigger engine. Does anyone know if the Mazda 3 hatchback has a timing belt or a timing chain and is it an interference engine? I will ask the same questions about the Toyota Matrix.
    Thanks, Rod.
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    roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,473
    The Mazda 2.3 has a timing chain.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-2021 Sahara 4xe-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
    Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
    Son's: 2018 330i xDrive

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    fjc3fjc3 Member Posts: 2
    I was checking with NAPA on-line and found out my 2009 3 uses an oil filter cartridge. I have never worked with one of these before. Are they easy to change/work with?
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    PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    From what I've been able to see online the biggest hassle is getting at the filter to replace the cartridge. I've also read that you have to go to the dealer to get the filter cartridge and parts.

    Here's a link to a page with photos of a guy that shows how he does it on his 2004
    http://robert.aitchison.org/tiki-page.php?pageName=Mazda3+DIY+Oil+Change
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    fjc3fjc3 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for that info.!!!!
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    scwmcanscwmcan Member Posts: 399
    You should be able to buy from any auto parts supplier now, the problem is indeed the getting at the filter, if you are doing it yourself make sure that you do not tighten the screws holding the splash plate in place too much, if you do the nuts in he clips will turn and it will be very difficult to get off next oil change (learned this the hard way, having to blindly reach into the splash panel with one arm whith a wrench and hold the nut while also trying to loosen the screw is not fun). I seem to recall at least one poster cutting a hole in the splash guard under the oil filter (where the hole that is on the splash panel should probably be). Don't let this discourage you it is possible to do.
    Scott
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    autonomousautonomous Member Posts: 1,769

    I had a similar problem last summer when my PCV went south. My Mazda Protege5 (predecessor to the Mazda3) was basically choking when it was stopped. The solution: install a new PCV (approx. C$350).


    Oops. I meant to say EGR not PCV!
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