Tire Rack Problems

Just a warning to those who are looking for new alloy wheels for their car. I have had a terrible experience with Tire Rack. I bought 4 new 17" Sport Edition Wheels with new Continental tires from Tire Rack to use in the summer for my 2000 Passat wagon. All 4 wheels bent in less than 6 months. So, I called Tire Rack and they gave me a small discount on 4 new Borbet wheels that are supposed to be "much stronger". I have since bent 7 of these wheels. I even went so far as to buy new tires with reinforced sidewalls to help. We didn't go 2 weeks before 2 more wheels bent. All this on a car that my wife drives to work and back on the highway.
I have come to the very expensive and frustating conclusion that Tire Rack is selling substandard wheels. I have purchased from them for 25 years, but I will never buy from them again.
Be aware of this before you buy. Their prices are good, but unless you just leave the car in the garage, you will have lots of bent wheels and a dangerous car to drive.
I have come to the very expensive and frustating conclusion that Tire Rack is selling substandard wheels. I have purchased from them for 25 years, but I will never buy from them again.
Be aware of this before you buy. Their prices are good, but unless you just leave the car in the garage, you will have lots of bent wheels and a dangerous car to drive.
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tidester, host
tidester, host
What is the symptom that you notice? Wobble(ie rim bent)?
or Vibration (ie throwing off the balance weights)?
-mike
Motorsports and Tuning Host
-Mike
Motorsports and Tuning Host
-mike
Alloy rims tend to break not bend, it sounds as though these are very soft and aluminum is actually quite soft depending on what grade you buy as raw material. I worked as a Tool & Die Machinist for about 15 years a long time back so I've worked with all this stuff and theer are way to get it tested. Chances are they made a whole defective batch. It's poor customer service to pass the blame on to the customer without checking it out. Maybe buying teh rims locally is a better idea.
I will probably look into that as an option as well. $500 rims should NOT bend or break except under extreme use.
Ever see Chinese gold? They sell it here and it looks nothing like gold more like coppery bronze it's actually reddish.
Too bad custom wheels are such big $$$ and yet use such low grade materials. Aluminum and Magnesium are very light but must be made right.
I haven't been out of Hong Kong when there but can only imagine how many corners they cut during manufacturing. Same way in the Philippines. They use far too much sand when they make concrete and it shows after a few months when it's been completed.
Well I guess I'll have to find wheels that are actually made in Japan or Germany.
I do have a good friend who is a mechanical engineer - wonder if he can refer me to a local facility to test the wheels. SSR literally will not answer emails, and phone calls only go straight back to Tire Rack. I even tried calling Japan!! Can't say I'm impressed with this defensive customer service.
Non-OEMs are generally less sturdy than ones that come original on cars, that's why I usually stick to OEM rims on my cars.
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
Any ideas what I screwed up here? Is my engine toast? Should I let it sit for a couple days (tow driver recommended that)? Is there a minor repair I can do on my own? I had 4 years of Automotive Repair training in high school so I know which way is up on a wrench.
ugh. but thanks
Water doesn't compress, so if you sucked water into your cylinders, the engine will be locked and nothing will be able to turn the engine over. Pull out the spark plugs, and see what comes out (water, you are in trouble). Carefully stick a narrow air nozzle into the spark plug hole into the cylinder, and see what blows out when you open up the air to it. Check the oil dipstick, see if the level is higher than normal. Oil floats on water, so if water got into your crankcase, your oil level would be high. You could also try draining the oil to see what comes out.
Water in the cylinder yields broken connecting rods, and crankshafts.....in addition to the obvious rust ruining the bearings problem.
If the engine checks out mechanically, then get a volt meter on the base electricals. Check that you have +13 volts on the main power feed to the starter. Check to see if you have +13 volts on the fuse buss. Check then to see when you turn the key in the ignition, whether you have +volt feed to the starter solenoid.
Good luck.