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Towing Experience with 2500 Silverado
I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 with the heavy duty
towing package. The specs say I can tow a 5th
wheel of 10,800 lbs. I am considering a 5th wheel
of 11,200 (loaded). I'm not sure if this is too
much 5th Wheel for the truck or if I am asking for
problem? Does anyone have experience in this
area?
Thanks
towing package. The specs say I can tow a 5th
wheel of 10,800 lbs. I am considering a 5th wheel
of 11,200 (loaded). I'm not sure if this is too
much 5th Wheel for the truck or if I am asking for
problem? Does anyone have experience in this
area?
Thanks
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Find a smaller trailer now, or you'll be unhappy with your truck later.
If I were to hit the max load....for a long trip..like you are doing....I'd wait for the new Duramax Diesel with the Allison Trans. that will be out soon in the GM line.
Diesel is the way to go for full load....Not sure I'd lower myself to a dodge...but that's up to you.
- Tim
Another option that works pretty well is to buy a used motorhome for the price of the fifth wheel. It's easier to tow your dinghy. And your friends and family can ride, sleep, make your lunch, bring you coffee, while you drive. If you look, you can find low mileage ones as cheap as a new fifth wheel, almost as nice. Fifth wheels tow okay, but motorhomes have truck axles, and are more sturdy. Fifth wheels work best where you just get it to your parcel, open the slide out, make it your cabin. Towing one frequently, not something I want to do.
You're missing one important consideration between an RV and fifth wheel. The operational maintenance! The living space maintenance is about equal. On a fifth wheel, the only maintenance that you have is tires, brakes and in extreme cases, alignment. With the RV it is like having another vehicle to maintain. The truck is most likely a daily driver and one really KNOWS the truck. With the RV, it's maybe six weeks/months and the funny noise that you thought you heard last time becomes very un-funny at the most inopportune time.
Also, when you get there you have the daily driver truck to gad about. If you're flat towing a vehicle behind the RV it is extremely difficult to back up. However when you go to calculate your gas mileage for the dinghy, the numbers may be astonishing!
Rich
A short trip of a few hours is OK.....cross country...up mountains.....no way....
..least not for me..
- Tim
Tow 11,000? Short trips, help a friend haul junk, haul hay, tow a car, something temp. But thats not the right truck to be hauling 11,000 all the time.
- Tim
So far I've only towed a small bass boat and my 2500 seems to pull it in OD with no problem. It even seems like using the tow/haul mode is just a waste. Anybody have any good input?
I'd say for anything higher than a bass boat...Use tow/haul.....still put the tranny in D...just push the T/H button.
Up to you.
- Tim
Read your manual, look at the sticker on your door. Does it say you can tow in OD? If not, then don't.
Just cuz your engine can pull it, you still may be harming the tranny. In OD, not as much fluid is being pumped because rpms are lower. Yet much more heat and stress are being generated due to the towing strain.
On half tons, I would keep it out of OD just to keep the tranny safely lubed and cooled.
getting (city, highway)?
thanks -slp77
With 3100 miles on it, I'm now getting about 11 to 12 MPG all city driving, up to 16.25 MPG highway, and an overall everyday average of about 13 to 13.5.
Towing my 6000# travel trailer on the highway, I've gotten anywhere from 8.5 to 10.5 MPG, with 9.5 to 9.75 MPG about average. I run at about 58 to 60 MPH when towing on the highway, and tow in 3rd gear only with the tow/haul mode. When towing in the Texas hill country this past week, I noticed that the engine/transmission controls prevented the transmission from shifting into overdrive towing this load, unless I was going downhill. Even then, it would shift into overdrive for a few seconds, but then the torque converter would unlock. As soon as I hit the bottom of the hill and started to resume regular speed, it would then downshift to 3rd. There were a few long uphill grades of 6% and 7% that I had to downshift to 2nd to let the engine and tranny to work more easily.
I've always thought it's better to tow any sizeable load in 3rd gear rather than overdrive unless you're pulling a small boat or trailer of say 2500# or less. I'll be pulling my friend's boat this weekend, which is maybe 1800# and I'm sure it will pull that in overdrive just fine.
Based on my experience with my travel trailer, there's no way on God's green earth I'd try to pull anything over 9000# with the 6.0 liter, even with 4.10 gears. Based on two early test reports I've seen, the Duramax/Allison lineup is going to become the new mother of all towing machines.
Randy
When towing, the transmission temperature gauge never gets higher than about 185 or 190 degrees, and the fluid is a bright red color, very clean. Even after several hours of towing, the fluid is not hot to the touch on the dipstick, and there doesn't appear to be any debris or dirt suspended in the fluid. The transmission shifts fine and there is nothing abnormal in how it works.
After being parked overnight and the fluid is cold, it just smells like an oil type smell, but it sure changes when it gets hot. I'm assuming the truck was filled at the factory with AC-Delco fluid, and I recently had the tranny on my wife's Oldsmobile changed at the dealer where I assume they would also have used AC-Delco fluid. But the fluid in her car smells way different than on mine.
Anybody got anything to offer on this? I don't want to waste my time bringing it to the dealer just yet, because unless there was smoke and flames coming out of it when I pulled in there, they'll just say everything is normal.
- Tim
a 2wd silverado 2500 LD with the 5.3
as the standard engine and rated at 7200 GVWR.
i've spent some time on the internet trying to find the difference between the LD and HD 2500's.
Except for the HD coming with the 6.0 engine as standard and only available with a long bed i haven't found any other differences.
Does anyone know what transmission comes with
the LD? i suspect its the 4L60E but i can't
find anything that confirms this.
thanks -slp77
Is just the difference the 6.0?....dunno....I'd imagine the suspension and perhaps frame would be a little stronger?
As for Tranny...carwizard.com used to tell the tranny that came with X model....give it a try for your combo....new cars....2000...model...tech specs
- Tim
Why get an LD 2500 anyway?
...Just curious...
- Tim
up front without having to dig through it.
unfortunately they don't give the model number of
the trans. instead they list it as "4 speed automatic-electronic".
the reason i'm researching the 2500 LD is:
1) i want the 5.3 for better non-towing mileage
2) i want the extra cab with a short bed
3) my brother has a 22 foot boat. the 2500 is a
better built vehicle for towing than the
1500 (larger brakes, a steering gearbox not
rack and pinion, and a heavier chassis)
From what i've read (and been told at work) the
4L80E trans is the way to go for towing and
durability.
thanks
-slp77
You can get an ext.cab SB in an HD model...
I have a 2000 2500 LT SB 4:10's....
Love it to death.....the HD tranny can be sluggish sometimes...but it's the way to go for towing..
I have done more hauling then towing...but it worked very well when I did tow.
It got about 12-13 MPG when new...it seems to have got a little better lately...about 14.5...(mostly highway that day)
On the average I get 13..50/50 highway/city..about 75 on the highway with the 4:10's
I understand the want for mileage...but I really think it's not going to be much of a gain...
Good Luck
- Tim
I think that I am going to order the Hypertech PowerProgramer III to correct the speedometer, firm up the shifts and add a little more grunt to the 6.0L.
I am planning a trip to Texas in July so I will get a good opportunity to stretch it out (800 miles) and see what it is capable of doing. Over all, I am satisfied with the 2500 but it is not the HD ¾ ton truck I was looking for! It is a real nice four-wheeler and grocery getter, but not up for pulling the big load. I am going to try a few changes to the exhaust, air intake and then Hypertech trick. I’ll see if the truck will be a keeper then, may end up with the new Duramax in my garage or even a Cummins!
if you order a 2wd 2500 w/ a short bed then its
a gvwr of 7200 and you get the 5.3
you can go the 6.0 w/ a short bed but then you
got to have the 4wd, giving you a gvwr of 8600.
(like your truck). if you stick with 2wd and a 6.0
you have to take it with a long bed.
i'm still not positive, but it appears if you
get a 2wd 2500 with a 5.3 you're stuck with the
4L60E trans. why gm would do that i have no idea.
i've never been much of a dodge fan, but at
least they'll let you pick and choose what
components you want built into your truck (or so
i've been told).
well i'm still a ways off from buying, maybe
the 2001's will be different.
thanks for the info
-slp77
Get over the mileage....it's only a mile or two.
Get 3:73's if it makes you feel better about a 6.0?...
A 5.3 3/4 is nuts man..
Good Luck
- Tim
Like Tim said, forget the 5.3 engine in a 3/4 ton. Go for the 6.0 - you'll be better off.
know what model trans you have do you? i'm
guessing 4L60E but so far i haven't been right
about much else. also what did your truck cost?
thanks
-slp77
the mileage, but here in LA gas is 1.50+.
up in the san francisco bay area its around 1.80.
i could live with those prices if they don't
rise too much more, but for an every day driven
vehicle it starts to add up. i'd would just like
to hear from someone who has a 2500 with a 5.3
and find out what they think of their truck.
maybe i should be looking at the 3/4ton Kia :-)
thanks
slp77
I'm sure it would stack right up with a Silverado!
Gas is the same here...$1.60 for 87...$1.90 for 93
- Tim
GREAT LOOKING TRUCK! Your running/box boards are very interesting. They look like the chrome over stainless but with a black step area. Is a plastic, a non-slip tape or what? Tell us, please.
Rich
Like nerf bar tubes...but a step like boards...the black is a rubber mat like that covers the stainless surface.
Not cheap - $1000 for all 4
Click for bigger pics:
another edmunds poster turned me on to the brand http://www.putco.com/ and I had to have these when I saw them.
They can be had cheaper than the web site prices at local stores.
$1000 was the local price.
When clean they have the luster of Chrome....but scratch very easy. Getting in and out makes a slight haze on the bars....but it comes off easy with some compound.
Chrome will scratch less....but Stainless does not rust.
Thanks for looking
- Tim
this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.
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