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Volvo C70 Fuel and Mileage Questions
Share your actual mileage numbers with other C70 drivers here.
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17 mpg street, 23 mpg highway
Running on Mobil1
32.7 miles/gal with the new C70 D5 turbo diesel engine
:confuse:
In other words, to get the hp that is always quoted by the manufacturer of the engine you have to use high octane. for everyday driving...gas mileage is more affected by "how" you drive. If you are always stomping on the gas or reving to the highest rpm, etc, etc then your gas milelage will stink no matter what grade gas you use. However, under somewhat restrained or normal driving you should see improvement in gas mileage with higer octane...but then you pay for what you get don't you?
I have always noticed the biggest difference with premium on long trips on the highway where you don't have to stop as often with premium.
He said if I was even more of a nut than I already am and if I was buying and not leasing, I could use premium for better peace of mind.
I pick up my car in 8 hours.
I pay for mine in 8 hours and await delivery in 8 days (I hope).
Good luck - and best wishes to you, and all our forum contributors, for the forthcoming holiday break.
Good luck with yours
Question is why bother? Maybe when prices were less than $1/gal and the difference was 20 cents, you were paying a 20% premium. With gas prices north of $2/gal the difference is <10% for premium. Hardly worth all the fuss .
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
IMHO: Can't imagine putting low octane fuel in a turbo-charged engine, unless it is an emergency.
Sure it won't hurt the engine to run cheap gas occasionally, but you probably shouldn't buy a turbo-charged engine if buying premium gas is a problem (emotionally or financially).
When you put regular in almost any modern engine, it automatically adjusts to avoid damage. This sounds okay, but it means the engine runs richer (injects more fuel) and retards the spark timing to prevent premature combustion of the fuel (ping). This means less power, and poorer fuel economy. Plus the extra fuel is not always 100% consumed, and could be passed to the catalytic converter. This extra fuel is not good for the catalytic converter, and over time (repeated use of regular in a turbo engine) could cause premature failure of the catalysts.
Just my humble $0.02 on the issue.
Ignoring (to begin with) a possible mileage difference between premium and regular, 15,000 miles/year translates to 750 gallons/year (at 20 mpg), or 517 gallons/year (at 29 mpg) - using the city and highway EPA ratings. Even with only a $0.20 difference between regular and premium (in some areas it is more like $0.25, or even higher), this works out to $103 to $150 per year.
I realize that the above simple calculation assumes that the miles/gallon is the same, whether you are using premium or regular. So I guess the crux of the argument lies in whether there is actually a significant loss of miles/gallon in using regular, and if so, how much. I think this will largely depend on driving style, since the energy content of the two grades of gas is more or less identical. If you are a "heavy-footed" driver, then I think there will be more of a mpg impact, since the loss of peak power using regular (due to spark retardation, etc.) will lead to keeping the pedal down longer. But for someone who normally accelerates slowly, my guess is that the mpg penalty will be minimal or non-existent, and there will consequently be greater savings from using regular.
In my own case, I think the savings from using regular will be minimal, and my preference will be for obtaining maximum power capability from the engine.
I was interested to see that both the people at the dealer, and the owner's manual, "sanctioned" the use of lower octane fuels as being perfectly reasonable. Other cars I've had in the past that could use multiple fuel grades usually took more of attitude of "in an emergency I guess you could get away with using regular, but we really recommend premium".
For example, my Hess card gives me 5% back at the pump. My bill is typically ~$350 per month. That is on regular gas. So the actual gas bought is about ~$368. If I was running premium, that would be about ~$441 retail ($73 difference compared to the retail price of regular gas) or ~$419 with my discount ($69 difference compared to my discounted price for regular). So the price difference for premium is reduced from 20% to about 16.5%.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
What kind of mileage are you seeing with your cars, being a technical person here is what I suggest for posting:
1. Average Mpg Observed after full tank or more of driving
2. Auto or Manual Trans
3. Highway, City, or Mixed Driving
4. Type of Fuel Used (Gas, Diesel, Octane, and for gasoline if it is ethanol enhanced for smog purposes - sticker on pump usually says)
FWIW: most reformulated gasolines usually have less energy (btu) per gallon than pure gasoline, just like most lower octane gasolines have less energy per gallon than the high octane grades (see article referenced earlier). Of course the biggest influence on mpg is driving style and amount of stop and go driving...
Look forward to seeing some numbers and comparing results!
Hope you get it solved quickly, but seems as if it is a mystery to dealer by your report.Keep us informed as to solution when they find one. Thanks!!
Maybe Volvomax can solve it for you also.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
My c70 is a 2000 model.And the spark plugs have been checked and are fine. They were new at the recent service.
Since the engine light was put out (re set) the car doesn,t start so well ,which may be a clue to someone. Ive also had it suggested that a temperature sender may be at fault.
The light hasn,t come back on yet (2 days)
where did you have it serviced?
the reason I ask is because my volvo (and i hear most are) was VERY sensitive to the type of plugs. Anything other than OEM gave me problems, no matter how high-quality they supposedly were.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
well, all i've got for you is the plug issue i mentioned earlier. I never had the plugs throw a CEL for me, but they definitely caused a hard-starting issue for me (excessive cranking to get it to kick over). They also fouled out on me prematurely. And those were the expensive iridium tipped (i think that's what they're called). Once I went back to OEM, everything was well with the car again.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Latest on the engine light;
C70 went in for its MOT today.They tested it with the engine light on for the emmissions and it passed no problem at all.The diagnostic code was PO172.and it said "System too rich" Bank 1 (2). I,ll phone the main dealer tomorrow with that code to see what they say.I drove for 80 miles over the weekend and the engine light had been reset (off).We had to stop to open a gate, and on it came! Ive got some volvo original plugs now which after ive spoken to the guy at volvo re the code ,ill fit if he thinks it will do the trick. Watch this space
We finally got our C70 delivered just before July 4th via OSD.
We are still collecting mileage data (and still going through break-in). The first few tanks were a bit depressing, until break-in when we started seeing 27-28 combined driving and 29+ on highway using premium (93). Some of the fuels are oxygenated (10% ethanol), which likely accounts for the variability in milage (along with traffic).
I accidentally put regular (87) in the tank a few weeks ago and dropped the gas mileage down to 24-25 combined (city/hwy). So for us in the midwest, where premium is only $0.20/gal more, it is slightly cheaper to use premium gas because we get better fuel economy {driving 350 mi costs $37.90 for 87 octane and $37.62 for 93 octane with regular costing $2.65 and premium $0.20 more}.
Pretty cool huh :P
Excellent comments on premium vs. regular fuel. I have always wondered about it.
Is there any way to increase the fuel mileage? Has anyone experiemented with one of the "performance chips?"