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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Steering

i have a 1992 gmc sierra 1500 with a 4.3 engine. how do i get the power steering pump pulley off so i can replace head gaskets? does it screw off or is there a set screw in the middle or do i need a pulley puller?


  • efultzefultz Posts: 4
  • efultzefultz Posts: 4
    My 2003 Silverado is having a problem with the steering box. The mechanic says I have to replace the box at a cost of about $500. Is there any less-expensive option to repair the problem? The symptom is when you turn left it is difficult to turn the steering wheel. It is only really difficult when not moving. Any other time it is easier to move but I am assuming the movement of the vehicle (even when going really slow) helps turn the wheel. Or could this be a symptom of some other problem - such as a pump or some such?

    I assume there is no recall to cover this?
  • Easy fix ( and worth while). Chevy dealers know all about what's needed. I paid $16 for the lube kit and $85 labor.
    I think you can do it yourself if you tinker. Google for instructions. I think Chevy should do a recall. Your "04 ought to be covered by the warranty.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Problem first showed up on the '99 rados and Sierras. Fast forward 7 years and the same problem exists and the best they can come up with for a fix is a lube? Lube will solve it temporarily at best. One thing for sure is that they make consistent parts....though it doesn't fit well at least they all don't fit well...lmao!!
  • johanjohan Posts: 6
    My problem is gettin g worse when i turn the steering wheel slightly there is the normal amount of resistance the all of a sudden there is no resistance and the truck goes eratically to the right or left whic ever way you are steering.Fluid is goood,front end seems tight.I'm thinking the steering box.Anyone have any ideas.Thanks
  • Try bleeding the air from your steering system. The procedure is to turn the steering wheel lock to lock (left to right "MAX")many times. The standard acceptable is (3) or (4) times. I have found that is not nearly enough!! (15) to (20) times was needed to cure the problem with my 2000 SIERRA.
  • I have a 2001 Silverado 2500 HD with the Duramax and last week the boost on the brakes failed and steering locked, luckily while I was still in my driveway. With the ignition off, the steering is as expected for unboosted steering, but once the engine is running, the steering locks and no boost for brakes. The pump reservoir is pressurized and the pump shaft has not failed, which leads me to believe the pump is not the fault. Is this a result of a failure of the steering sensor or perhaps a valve module?
  • dvanndvann Posts: 1
    This is the exact same problem my 2003 Impala had. Yes it is the intermediate steering shaft but I never did bother to get it fixed before trading it on a new 2006 Silverado. Yes the fix per GM is the lube kit. The Impala was making this noise for a couple of years and still kept running OK - just bothersome.
  • johanjohan Posts: 6
    OK thanks i'll try that today.I'll let you know.
  • The $15.00 kit will solve the problem for many years if you replace the grease in the kit with a heavier "wheel bearing" grease. The High Pressure grease in the kit is too thin to stand-up to the Intermediate Steering Shaft spline movement. If you have a dealer do the work, tell them that you want the kit when the job is done. The valuable part of the kit is a special plug and the instructions. It's not a big deal to do the job yourself.
  • Just to follow up on this, anyone with the same power steering pump as the 2500 HD Duramax needs to beware. This was the result of a pressure relief valve failure in the pump. This is a known issue at Chevy dealers as hydraulic power steering pumps are one of the few parts the dealer regularly stocks. The valve could have failed at speed, locking the steering and eliminating brake boost, placing the driver in a very precarious predicament. I wonder why there isn't a TSB or recall on this as I deem this to definitely be a safety issue...
  • it is pretty good odds that your power steering pump shaft broke. I work at a repair shop and have replaced three pumps for the same reason on 99-2004 gm vehicles. This pump operate the brakes and the steering. To check if it is broken just put a pry bar between the pully and the pump. If it is broken, the pully will move forward really far, until it hits the fan shroud. It would suprise me if that is not the problem.
  • cwykacwyka Posts: 2
    The wheel bearing grease is a GREAT idea!!! I just did it on my '01 Silverado and can add a few tips. Go to a store in your area that carries agricultural products/animal health care. I went to Farm and Fleet and bought a syringe for $1.99 and some plastic tubing to fit on the end. I then filled the syringe with wheel bearing grease and injected it into the shaft. I plugged the end with a cotton towel (you really have to jam it in there tight) and did the lubrication. I had to do it several times and it was messy - but my steering is tighter than its ever been. So for about $5.00 I think I licked this problem for some years now. Good luck!!!!
  • I have a problem on my 2006 Silverado were the front wheels shimmy badly when I hit a bump at speed. It's not a front end alignment problem as I have had the front end aligned.
  • arkz71arkz71 Posts: 10
    I am going to fix mine to it has the clunk in the stem. Did you disassembly it or what?

    Mine is a Z71 4x4 1500.

  • cwykacwyka Posts: 2
    Yes, you do. It IS NOT a difficult job. Follow this link and it shows you how to do it.

    Good luck.
  • arkz71arkz71 Posts: 10
    Is it the valve going out in the steering box, mine was replaced I had extended warr. and it cost me $100 for it. I have heard of these being replaced or going out if it whines when you turn the wheel it is for sure the steering box.
  • arkz71arkz71 Posts: 10
    That is AWESOME, thanks again for the link!

    I can't wait to fix mine!
  • baterbater Posts: 2
  • baterbater Posts: 2
    My 2002 silverado, while turning at slow speed in 4wd, the right front wheel locks up then releases then keeps going thru that cycle. It also does it in 2wd but not anywhere near as bad. Any ideas what it could be?
  • jlenfertjlenfert Posts: 2
  • jlenfertjlenfert Posts: 2
    power steering pressure hose is defective. Disconnected OK from steering box but unable to disconnect from PS unit itself. Maybe do not have the proper tools. Maybe a big job if the PS unit and everything else has to come off just to connect the new pressure hose. Help. thank you
  • I have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 Crew Cab. I've had the lube "fix" twice - most recently within the past 400 miles. I'm experiencing the same shimmy - like my wheels are coming loose - whenever I'm on a rough or bumpy road. Front end was just aligned, and the mechanic did not report any deficiency. I'm contacting the dealer (again!) Monday.
  • gkulik1gkulik1 Posts: 1
    tompeterson1, please post or let me know what the cause is or what the dealer thinks it is. My 2003 Avalanche has just started the same thing, 55k miles. I'm out of warranty so cost is an issue. Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    GM has a new intermediate steering shaft. There is a tsb relating to this. I've seen the tsb just can't remember where. But there is a permanent fix and taking the tsb to the dealer will enable them to replace it for you.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Document ID# 1893252

    Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)

    Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

    1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)

    2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models

    2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

    1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)

    2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models

    2003-2006 HUMMER H2

    Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.

    This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix.

    Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

    Diagnostic Tips
    Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.

    • Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).

    • Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.


    Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
    Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.


    • I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.

    • Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.

    Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.

    Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
    Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

    Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.

    For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.

    From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
    For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
    6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

    6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.

    6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.

    From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
    Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
    8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.

    8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

    Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
    Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
    Install the upper bolt and nut.
    Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).

    Install the lower bolt and nut.
    Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

    For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
    14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.

    14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.

    Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

    14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.

    Parts Information
    Part Number

    Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
    Labor Time

    Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Upper -- Replace
    Use Published Labor Operation Time

    GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

    Document ID# 1893252
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    dependent as some have charged and some haven't guess it depends on your personal relationship with that dealer.
  • They said it was a rotor warping problem. machined them, and the stopping is definitely smoother. If you haven't had the steering column greased, I'd bet that your problem. Good luck!
  • klentoklento Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 2004 Sierra, the first time I brought it to the dealer they just lubed the steering. A few months later it came back. Second time back to the dealer they replaced part of the steering shaft. Now it's making a new rattling sound like they forgot to tighten something. In short, dealers suck!!!!!
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