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Ford Escort Engine Problems

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  • beachlovbeachlov Posts: 2
    Need alittle help asap please. My engine had shut off as I was driving and the check engine light came on. Could not re start car and had it towed. Any ideas what may have caused this and the cost of parts to repair? Thanks for any replies. Beach
  • liranrazliranraz Posts: 1

    I have a ford escort 96 station wagon.

    The "check engine" indicator had turned on and didn't turn off.

    After a few days it turned off, and now it's not turning on when I'm starting.

    Anyone know what is the meaning of that ?

    Do I need the car serviced immediately ?

  • vr5vr5 Posts: 1
    I have a 95 escort wagon. It has been in the family since new and has 124,000 miles on it. 4spd auto. The check engine light has been coming on for quite sometime. However Ford has been unable to pull any codes, and wants an outrageous amount to check the car system by system. The car runs and drives fine, however occasionally on the highway the car will surge, as if the fuel supply were being momentarily cut off. Also when the car is warm sometimes I have to really crank and crank the engine to get it to start. Recently the car has started stalling if you don't veeerrryyy slowly take off from a stop when the engine is cold.

    Any ideas?
  • Hello forum crew. I was hoping to get some expert advice for some experienced escort owners. I just snatched up a 93 Escort Lx 1.9 auto, SFEI wagon. The car is nice and clean 75,000 miles,but of course you new it was coming. Here's the problems. The car stars right up and idles fine in park. If put in gear sometime it stall's and has rough idle. When driven up through the gears its great. The problem is if you start in drive form a dead stop the car will start to pick up speed, Then into second gear and now your going 25 mph.(FOOT OFF THE GAS)This will also happen in reverse.(WOW NOT COOL) But wait it get worse when you try to stop or when the trans down shifts from 2 to 1st just before you come to stop. The car jerks into 1st as if it was being forced to down shift at a high idle. I had the computer checked on the engine it showed no codes or problems. Maybe some trans problems??) I know someone out there in Escort forum is sharp enough to get this one. Well I hope so. For you rookies like me any help will be great and thanks to all. Steve
  • vandeadvandead Posts: 1
    check to see if the vacume lines and fittings are in good condition. My standard shift wagon had a good idle, but under load and at higher rpms it would chug and run like [non-permissible content removed]. There is a rubber coupler on the manifold that connects to a hard plastic line that goes to the pcv valve.

    the rubber looked okay but was deteriorated and collapsing when at higher vacume levels.

    when replaced it ran tip top
  • rroseckyrrosecky Posts: 1

    I owned a 93 1.9 Escort. I had 'overspeed' problems. No sensor lights came on. It turned out to be an easy to replace Throttle position sensor (You can buy online ... use Google with "ford parts escort". Now I own a 96 1.9 Escort. These are really reliable cars. Good luck

    Dick R.
  • clarson4clarson4 Posts: 1
    hi all!!! was just wondering if any one could help me out?
    trying to fix my girlfriend's 92 escort wagon; it's hard to start when cold and idles very rough. but it also wants to stall at stop lights. the car has no power and has a very hard time starting out. also noticed it back fires lightly? just did spark plugs and wires. could it be a coil?? any help would be great thanx
  • :cry: My escort wagon is idle very rough, it is like it wants to stall now and has. Today I replaced the plugs and wires. Could it be the coil?? injectors??
    I think you may have had the same problem and I am wondering what fixed that problem for you??
    My car and I need your help, thank you.. Jord
  • mine is a 96 escort wagon, 1.9 liter.
    It ran out of gas and has seemed to have gotten worse as well. Thew only time in my life I have run out of gas and I think it will cost me. Off the start it has no guts and takes time to get going. Sometimes the idle is so rough it hurts me ;)
    Changed the fuel filter and air filter, thinking maybe the pcv valve change???
  • mdhugmdhug Posts: 9
    95 Wagon Auto 1.9 According to my neighbor she was driving when the car just cut-off. Checked timing belt and it is like new, It is getting spark at all four plugs and it is pumping fuel when I checked the bleeder valve. Hope someone can help!!! One bad thing is it sounds very funny when trying to start and has about 1-2 quarts over the full line for oil. Could the motor just be gone??? She said it started and shook violently for 3-5 seconds. It will not start for me and backfires through there air filter housing. Any help is appreciated. Has 93k
  • sam8thsam8th Posts: 4
    car has less than 68k miles on it. had to fix the air conditioner (dryer replaced) and then just 4 days later, car breaks down for first time ever! turns out my harmonic whatever was out of balance. so another costly repair.

    could this harmonic imbalance problem have been caused by the air conditioner repair? cause it sure seems questionable that my car would break down for the first time 4 days later.

    any thoughts? anybody else heard of this repair? thanks!
  • jaddyjaddy Posts: 1
    will the engine out of a mercury tracer 1.6 liter bolt up to a 1993 ford escort gt the monts look like they are in the same place please let me know by my email the mercury is in bad shape but he escort is in good shape other than a plugged radiator and a blown head gasket but worried about a crack block or head please reply :cry:
  • The temperature of the air coming out of the air vents on the dash is never cold. The compressor is working.Can someone give me an idea on how to find out the problem?
  • after wasting several dollars on a recharge kit, i took my car in for an air conditioner check and had to have a dryer replaced, ac refilled and oil for ac and was worth every cent.

    the ac check was free with a coupon, but i've seen it advertised for 30-40 bucks for a checkup on ac. maybe the shop will put the check cost towards the repair??

    sounds like what my car was doing. no cool air. compressor was fine.
  • i have a 93 escort 1.9 lx that started idleing high then it would dropd dwn sometimes so far it would stall. it would drive fine in cold weather till it warmed up then idle rough. now its doing it all the time. i replaced the idle air control sensor the throttle position sensor and the fuel filter but it stil drives the same. i did a check engine test and the car wouldnt respond. has nebdy had this problem before?
  • I have a 1992 Ford Escort LX 1.9 with 187,000 miles on it. In the last 2 months I got the Alternator and the steering wheel pump and belt tensioner change, plus I put new ignition cables and spark plugs. It runs good, but when I am going 55 to 60 miles per hour up hill it seems like the car cylinders get lost and don't know which one should fire and the car start shaking and I have to down shift gear from 5th to 4th and then is ok. Anybody knows what is going on?. Thank you
  • When I got this car it had a broke timing belt and the battery had been hooked up backwards. Also the fan has been wired to run whenever the eng is running. I have replaced the timing belt, alternater, 100a main fuse, head gasket and bolts, t/stat and #2 inj. The fan is still wired to run when eng does. When the following are disconnected it has no effect on the engine: TPS or Air Charge Temp Sensor, disconnecting the MAF Sensor causes the eng to shut off. For some reason when I try to retrieve the eng codes it does not work like the manual says. I have checked every thing I possibly can using a Haynes Manual and this is what I have: At first startup the RPM's surge about 300-500 and as it warms up it stops surging ALL MOST, still has a very slight surge. It idles rough, like intermittent firing. I can remove the #2 (new inj) plug wire and can not notice any change in eng, I have power to the inj and it ohm's out within specs. The TPS has 5.05 volts going to it. Is this normal or should it have 12v? When the eng is switched off it keeps running for abt 3 seconds before it stops, and the tach goes all the way to the high side of the gauge. When the eng is restarted the tach does not move until you rev the eng up to abt 2,000. Any help would greatfully be appreciated. Thank you. :sick:
  • OK my buddy has a 1990 ford escort pony.he was driving and something happened and it just if im not mistaking i had a 93 escort that had a fuel relay shutoff switch in the driver side rear corner panel.would a 90 have the same thing in the same place or would the switch be somewhere..or not have one at all.the car will turn over but wont start.and the fuel cutoff light turns on when trying to start..any help asap is appreciated :confuse: :mad: :cry:
  • aandpaandp Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. I changed plugs, wires, ignition control module, fuel regulator, fuel filter, O2 sensor. Compression check is 180psi. Swapped ignition coils with an old one. I think its the ECU. But I am going to turn up the throttle set screw first. No check eng light. Used the obd1 scanner no communication. Jumpered the plug. the check engine faulted 02 sensor. Already change that. Out of ideas. When it warms up runs like cramp during idle. After a minute at the light it shutsdown.
  • I have a 93 ford escort wagon with a 1.9l. The check engine light was on for a while and then it just died one day. It will start back up if left for a while, and run for about 4 seconds before dying. After starting it will run fine, I held it at about 5 grand and there was no sputtering or anything and then after about 4 seconds something cuts it out. It just dies completly with no sputtering. Any advice would be much appreatied. Im thinking it has to be some sensor but i dont know what to try.
  • 1999 Escort Wagon, 2L, manual, upgraded to everything past SE except choking seat belts, 130K miles.
    At 120K engine lost two head bolts (cracked just past the head) on opposite corners ... right rear, left front. Replaced timing belt, water pump, shipped out the head (everything fine), etc. Since then the idle, when warm, stays at roughly (no tack) 1300 RPM for several minutes, then falls to roughly 600-700 RPM. "Give Ford $" light now stays on. Speed will not hold steady when car is ideling high ... I can't put it in 4th gear & hold speed, it falls, but not to proper idle. Mechanics have not fixed the problem. Over the last 10K, problem has increased in the duration (up to 2 minutes now) till normal RPM. This only happens when engine is at normal op. temp. & driven for 1/2 hour +.
    Thanks for your advice.
  • ;) if you are finding that your starter on your escort just clicks, replace you body grounds and main power wire for the battier and add 2 more body grounds to you car. the clicking of your starter will stop and everything should go back to normarl again. like a 0 gage wire from the engine to the chase of the car and make sure they are well clean. ;) ;) ;)
  • Hi im new here and was wondering if someone could help me out. My daughters boyfriends car is making a metalic noise when he revs it up. It idles fine with no noise but when he revs it up it makes the noise. It kinda reminds me of the older cars being out of time. I don't know squat about these newer cars so can someone out there tell me if it's possible that this could be the problem. Also, how do you time this car. thanks in advance.
  • My daughter went to advance auto today and had them hook up the dianostic reader. The code was...P1744 Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in Off Position. What does that mean and is it something i can fix.
  • rhoelrhoel Posts: 1
    Hi, i have a 98 ZX2. Just recently broke the timing belt and brought it to mechanic to have it replaced. it runs good but the problem i'm having is, that the car keeps stalling after a 100km or so. i would let it sit for about 10 to 15 min and it would start again after it cools off and it would let me drive it again but not longer this time maybe 30 km and it would stall again :confuse: . cooland seems to be ok and it's not smoking or anything like if it's overheating. i just replaced the spark plugs i though maybe its the plugs but still the same thing.
    it has 220,000 clicks on it and it runs pretty good till u drive it for a while then it starts to act up.
    Anyone knows whats causing this ?
    Would really apreciate if anyone could help me.

    Tks... :)
  • jimbopbjimbopb Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Escort 1.9 liter. NEW PLUGS, WIRES,O2 SENSOR,FUELFILTER,CHECKED FUEL PRESSURE,OK,new cat. converter,Had exhaust noise in engine compartment,replaced exhaust manifold gasket,new muffler.That fixed noise.I have to feather the gas to pick up speed. accelerates very slowly, hesitates badly.The engine compartment still gets very hot,the nut on the EGR tube gets cherry red and the cat. converter gets red. please help. I like working on cars but this is driving me crazy.
  • Hi!! i'm new first car on the road its a 97 ford escort only 79K miles on it, here it the problem. after driving for awhile the car seems to decelerate or should i say not accelerate as it should, there was a point in time where i put the accelerator almost to the floor and it was only going 30mph. and then at the same time the brake gets stiff. i had the oil changed, i also put in transmission fluid as well as fuel injection cleaner, nothing. then when i parked the car yesterday i noticed a green substance leaking from it, i am told this is anti-freeze. what is wrong with my car??? please help me!!!
  • token2token2 Posts: 5
    m 98 escort snapped timing belts twice. just take off the acc. belt and then take off the crankshaft pully, then take off the timing belt cover and the timing marks shoud be aroud the cam pully and the crank pully, but remember if you belt has alot of miles just replace it while you got it out. but remember when putting the belt on, when you tighten you tbelt it will move forward about 2 or 3 teeth because the the tensioner.
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