Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems



  • I have next problem with the Voyager 1996:

    - not working instrument cluster, all the gauges at zero, no display for distance or trip

    - not working wiper intermittent

    - not working speed control (tempomat)

    - when loocking the doors it unlock imediately

    But, sometimes when driving, the instrument cluster start working.

    I have already check the fuses, relays, conectors, remove the BCM and reinstal, resolder conector on instrument cluster panel, put the ground (-) wire direct to pin 7 on instrument cluster conector because I do not found the ground G200.
    Disconect clockspring conector, disconect conector on HVAC.

    Any idea?
  • maxima8maxima8 Posts: 14
    go to junk yard and get used gauge cluster maybe fix the problems take only 15 minutes to change good luck
  • 98dodge198dodge1 Posts: 1
    i have a 98 t&c the battery was going dead and the alarm was not reseting so i replaced the battery now all the buttons next to the ac controls are flashing. then after driving a while they stop. all the buttons still work. is there a reset for these? also i have had some issues lately with a random sputter. ill be driving and it will sputter sometimes and not others. ive checked for dtcs and there were none. i havent seen the ses light come on at all while this happens. i have had cluster issues where i had to hit the dash to get the car to start. i also have replaced the crank sensor and it helped for a while but now its back. thank you for your help
  • dugger2dugger2 Posts: 2
    I started my town and country, and it was running rough. I replaced my plugs and wire, but still no change.
    I believe my alternator is going bad...will this make the van run rough??
    I have the "engine" symbol lit on the dash too.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,911
    No, not unless your battery was VERY low, and in that case you would not be able to start it long before it runs out of enough juice to power the park plugs.

    You may have a vacuum or fuel supply problem that is causing the rough operation. Find out the code(s) in the system by using a reader - that may give you a good idea of where to start. In general, I would check my compression first, then spark quality (there could be a problem with the ignition coil), then go from there.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • dugger2dugger2 Posts: 2
    thanks for the advice
    I did pull the wires off one at a time at the ignition coil....and there were 2 that weren't sparking strong like the others
    I also disconnected the battery while the van was running...and the engine would die...and I hear a loud noise coming from he alternator I do believe I have an alternator going bad too
  • miket8miket8 Posts: 3
    I doubt the alternator is causing it to run rough. If you have two weak cylinders, this is not caused by the alternator. With the engine light on, that means there are codes. I'd have the codes read and go from there.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I agree with the other two posters. I do not think a weak alternator would make the van run rough. You should be able to run on the battery alone, assuming it has a good charge. If you already replaced the plugs and wires, I would look for cracked/leaking vacuum hoses.

    I would be careful pulling plug wires. Dumping unburned fuel into the exhaust is a good way to shorten the life of your catalytic converter.
  • luiscab70luiscab70 Posts: 2
    We have a 2007 T&C Touring and beginning this past winter, when the temperature dropped below 50, our Heat/AC would not come would not come on at all including the navigation compass above. This would cause the brake and ABS light to come on and the TRAC to turn off. When it got warmer all was fine, then the rain in APril caused some humidity and same thing happened. Now, when it reaches over 80 degrees, same thing.

    We have taken it in and the TIPM was replaced and now we are waiting for another part that arrives at the beginning of June.

    Has ANYONE experienced this type of electrical problem EVER???

    Your input would be appreciated.

    :mad: and :confuse:

    Luis in TX
  • natehart83natehart83 Posts: 1
    the car turns over wont start need help quick thanks
  • ringaloriringalori Posts: 3
    On Voyager 1996, rear right sliding door do not unlock! I can do it manualy, but not with power lock/unlock (key, button). But it alway lock with power lock/unlock key or button.
    Anybody know the issue?
  • amandashamandash Posts: 14
    My 98 T & C has started giving an intermittent problem of not starting. The car starts would just refuse to start even after just parking up. I notice that the PRND2L all light up with squares around them so you can not tell which gear the car is in when this happens.

    The battery is always strong and the starts kicks very strong when it starting normal. Sometimes when it happens I can wait for about 10 minutes and then it starts. Last night it just won't start.

    I want to believe it is a bad neutral/reverse safety switch which in this vehicle is located inside the transmission but before I undertake this I would like to hear some input/advise from others.
  • dwilburn1dwilburn1 Posts: 1
    Can you tell me exactly what they did to fix it? My T & C is doing the same thing. It has been in the shop 3 times and they still can't figure out how to fix it.
  • pcsmileypcsmiley Posts: 1
    i can reset the whole thing by pushing the trip button. it cycles through like three things and then resets. but when i use the blinker again, it makes the speedo and now the tach go mental and then drop.

    2001 town and countrty lxi.
  • amandashamandash Posts: 14
    Follow-up--- The problem turns out to be the cable was burnt out inside the battery clamp. So there was poor connection. Actually I should have known this since I had noticed before that the terminal was getting hot.
  • djokmandjokman Posts: 1
    Hi all, new to this forum but am hoping there is someone out there that can help. I've got a 1999 Town & Country LXI that will start chiming constantly for a long time. There are no lights on the dash that are coming on. The doors are all shut, seat belts being worn. It is about to drive me crazy!!! Any suggestions? Any way to remove the chime? (heard it is located in the BCM, can it be removed?) Van runs and drives just fine with no problems. Please help before I end up in a padded room somewhere!

    LOL :-)
  • cjunkencjunken Posts: 1
    Hey all, was wondering if anyone had experienced this problem. Just driving along and all the sudden all the warning lights on the dash light up and the wipers make two passes. Then everything returns to normal. This just happened a couple times within about a five mile distance. I've looked through the manual and can't find anything saying its trying to warn me about something. We are getting ready for a 3000 miles road trip so i need to resolve this quickly, if possible.
  • lhenklhenk Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2001 T&C. Do you know what parts you had
    changed? i hope you got yours fixed.
  • fconversefconverse Posts: 2
    Did you ever find out what was going on regarding the electrical problem you posted on 4/19/09? I am having the EXACT same problems with my 98 T&C right now. Please let me know. Thanks. Fred
  • krhodenkrhoden Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem, can someone help, the wipers come on and all the warning lights come on, I cannot use the indicators or turn on anything. Took it to the dealership, and they say they cannot repeat the problem, therefore cannot fix it. Help anyone?
  • I know someone who had the same problem and his problem was the Body Control Module. He got one from the dealer and it wasn't configured incorrectly and ended up frying his PCM. They tried to charge him thousands of dollars to fix it but he raised hell until they paid for a new PCM and BCM. It's best to replace them together. I'm no expert but just wanted to respond with what I have seen.
  • glynnaglynna Posts: 2
    2005 dodge caravan began having electrical problems 6-9 months ago. a loud POP noise then radio would go out, gauges would go spinning and indicator lights on dash would come on..this lasts for a few seconds to minutes then quit. vehicle never would quit & ran during these tried several times to fix, never did, finally installed new battery, but this did not fix problem..any ideas I am very frustrated.thanks
  • luiscab70luiscab70 Posts: 2
    OK..We think we have it fixed. After four times, the dealer traced each wire path from the TIPM to every electrical source on the electrical console. What they found was one pinched wire that would trip the fuse (like a breaker at your house). They replaced that wire and thus far, the problem has not happened again. This is the longest it has worked with out tripping the fuse. Stay tuned. For those who have had similar problems, unless your dealer is willing to do this, check your states lemon laws. OUr dealer has been working with us for six months. THey have been great and I am glad a solution has come of it!
  • kersh1kersh1 Posts: 1
    My T&C is having some issues. I'm just over my 90,000 of course, but wanted to see if I can get some discounts if this is a recall issue. My drivers side window quit working about a month ago. Two weeks ago my right taillight went out and went to replace it, but after replacing still not working and finally just this Monday the automatic locks don't work from the keyless remote or internally with the locks. HELP! Thanks!
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Intermittent shorts like that are a real bear to track down and fix. Sounds like your dealer has some very good techs in their shop - ones who are willing to spend the time and effort to find the root cause of a problem.
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Oddball electrical problems are sometimes a symptom of a weak battery. I would have the charging system checked out to make sure your battery is holding its charge and the alternator is working properly. Good luck.
  • tat4tat4 Posts: 1
    Trying to start the van and nothing happens. Replaced the battery and dome lights will come on, but no dashboard lighting and no ignition. Some functions work and some do not. Also hear a "clicking" sound that seems to be coming from the fusebox but no blown fuses. Anyone have a clue?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,911
    The clicking sounds are relays (those little black boxes in the main fuse/relay box). It may be a relay that is bad, an irregular connection (like a loose connector or bad ground in a connector), or something more complicated like a problem in the body control module or powertrain control module.

    I am currently hunting down a similar problem. My van will crank but is not getting fuel. There is no fuel pressure and the pump is not running, but trying to find the electrical gremlin causing it is just a slow, methodical, time-consuming process.

    Get a multimeter... ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Hi Guys!

    This is a repost of an answer to this problem you are having. I posted this answer some time ago. It should take care of your problem. I had the same problem on an 87 that I owned, on that one it didn't involve the starter/solenoid, or the alternator. On that one, I just cleaned the existing grounds and put them back together, and for extra "just in case" security against faulty grounds in the future, I took a long wire and grounded it from the frame to the fenders and both heads and the block, then to the battery and never had another problem. It seems that all these c/d/p's have ground problems
    and they mimic other known electrical problems and have us chasing our tails, when it turns out to simple be a faulty ground, due to use of thin metal and different metals used on the vehicles. So, try this
    #271 of 273Re: 1997 Grand Caravan-won't start without a jump [kizersoze] by joepeterson56 Jul 29, 2009 (2:52 pm)Save | Reply
    Replying to: kizersoze (Jun 28, 2009 2:52 pm)

    My 97 Voyager was doing the same thing. Had the alternator and starter checked at autozone, but both tested"good" according to them. I refused to believe them because the problem was behavior consistent with a bad starter or solenoid. After they told me it was good, I undid every single ground connection on the engine block and in the engine compartment, including where the control unit and electric distribution box connect, cleaned them with sandpapaer and/or a file, then reconnected them all. Problem persisted, so I went ahead and replaced the starter. Problem solved!! That was 2 yrs ago & no problem since. So, if you all have replaced your starters, do all the ground connections. If you did the ground connections, replace the starter. I know from all the c/d/p minis I have owned, that they are very tempermental when it comes to voltage/ground variations, and do the strangest things as a result of them. Most of which, Chrysler and/or the dealers refuse to acknowlege or have never hear of. Good luck.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,911
    Good call, Joe! I did not think to consider that it may be a current problem on that poster's van!

    Unfortunately, my van energizes just fine.... the problem is isolated to something relating to the fuel pump circuit. I do not think it is the pump itself, but there are other things that can be causing it, so I am just slowly trying to eliminate possibilities. Very frustrating. At 213,000 miles, even though the van runs perfectly when the FUBAR electrical system will actually let the engine start, it may be time to say goodbye. In any case, it is worth a heck of a lot more if it runs.... :(
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
Sign In or Register to comment.