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Buying a used Accord
I found someone selling a 2003 Honda Accord Coupe 4-Cyl 5-Speed Manual with 85000 miles for $9500. I know this is high mileage but is it too high?
She has all the maintenance records from the dealership. She used to live in LA and would commute to San Fran frequently, hence the high mileage. The test drive went well, but am I just buying a headache? I'm a college student and am just nervous about making a mistake. It seems like a good deal, and Honda's seem like they will last forever. Any advice!! thanks!
She has all the maintenance records from the dealership. She used to live in LA and would commute to San Fran frequently, hence the high mileage. The test drive went well, but am I just buying a headache? I'm a college student and am just nervous about making a mistake. It seems like a good deal, and Honda's seem like they will last forever. Any advice!! thanks!
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Comments
1)After 5K miles, you will need the 90K tuneup, so negotiate more, because a 90K tuneup can set you back about $350.
2) Check the tires' conditions; if they are worn, let the owner know so maybe they can lower the price more, cuz those can set you back about $500.
3) I would strongly advice you to let a mechanic check the clutch, or if you are an experienced manual driver, maybe you can tell how well the clutch is supposed to grab. That car probably has a lot of freeway miles, but there are drivers that ride the clutch a lot. A clutch can set you back $500 or more...so check it out asap!
4) READ ALL maintenance RECIEPTS carefully, don't think "Yeah it's all here...."
5) I don't think you need to worry about the timing belt, because the 4 banger has a timing chain and not a belt.
6) Look for those MAJOR service reciepts, like the 30K, 60K, etc.
7) Run a carfax just to be on the safe side.
8) Check cautiously if all body panels are aligned, but don't be too shocked to see a lot of rock chips on the front of the car, because of a lot of freeway driving.
Other than that, you are good to go my friend. :shades:
Does anyone else have experience with the AC compressor going out? Since reading the post about the compressor, I've read a few more on this same issue.
Any other suggestions!! Thanks for all your help!
I would rather take my chances at CarMax for the price. That's just me though.
thanks.
The car should run just the same, except for lack of cold air when you push "A/C".
What kind of advice is that!!!!
Sure, buy from a dealer - if you want to pay more for the same car, and additional taxes as well - maybe.
From private sales, the car is usually more likely to have more problems you were not aware of.
Surely, you must have seen issues like this on tv on the news, or even Judge Judy where problems happen from private sales.
I have a hard time buying a car from a used dealership, unless it was certified pre-owned. They are way over priced, and they cannot tell you first hand how previous owners took care of the car. Also, a lot of used dealerships are really shady, yes they are obligated to tell you the truth, but they also try to hide any future potential problems.
FOr example, I looked at 97 accord EX at a used dealership, and the oil appeared to be very fresh, I got very suspicious at this. So I opened up the cap to the engine where the oil goes, and there was tons of sludge build up. Which means the previous owner changed the oil maybe once every 6k miles-- Terrible idea, if you want your honda to run 300K miles. There were also some other issues with this vehicle, there was a lot of grease build-up on the left boot of the front left tire.
I did not buy the car. I ended up buying a 97 LX accord from a private party for $3000 (KBB stated 3000 is what a dealer would have payed for it--trade in value. 5500 would have been retail price from a dealer.) The Sellers were very trustworthy, I saw that they took care of the car, and they gave me a much better deal than dealership would have. I needed to spend about $1500 to fix everything, but it was nothing out of the ordinary after 140K miles. $4500 for a car that I know was taken care of and that is up to par and runs great is better than $5500, and not knowing how the car was maintained.
Thoughts?
Take the car to another mechanic that has a good local reputation. A Honda dealer isn't necessary. I would also run a carfax report on any used car I bought. It's cheap insurance.
I'd say this is probably the norm for old Hondas (my grandad ran his Civic for 260,000 miles and 15 years before selling it 4 years ago. His car had an engine rebuild at approx 210k miles though b/c he didn't change the timing belt in time and slung a rod (i think; it's been a long time - either way, you could say 200k miles without major repairs).
I have a 2001 Honda Accord LX at 160,000 miles that was maintained and treated nicely. Other than the fact that I'm going on my 3rd transmission, my catalytic converter has died, resulting in very poor engine performance and currently 18 miles to the gallon due to the strain on the exhaust system, it has treated me well.
This morning, Honda has quoted around $7000 worth of repairs. Although the mechanics are very nice and sypathetic, those repairs come close to diving over the blue book value.
It looks really nice and clean however! Clean engine, sounds great, excellent paint. You'll only notice the transmission while driving it, then the exhaust problem when the Check Engine light intermittantly comes on.
Get the car checked and diagnosed before purchasing it.
I drive a variety of rental cars when on travel expeditions, and have never really gotten hooked on anything else. The Dodge Intrepid came close for a while, as did the mid-sized GMC SUV (Blazer/Jimmy family) and I recently had a great vacation in the Hummer H3. Still, the Accord keeps me on the road no matter what.
I bought the baseline DX with no AC (wears on the engine don't you know!) and manual windows. Over the years I have had the clutch and the transmission replaced, but only after I burned out first, second and reverse gears (you can push start this car on level ground and hop in, if you are beefy like me). I have also gradually seen oil leaks pop up, but STILL I burn no oil and pass emissions/smog with no problem. Have the seals replaced when you get the timing belt and water pump done, every 100k miles. When the Accord was new, I routinely got mileage in the high 30's and 17 years later it has descended to a still respectable 27.5 mpg. I add up the cost of gas and oil, and a new car doesn't seem that great of an idea for a daily driver.
I have had significant problems with water intrusion into the trunk, and have never been able to fix this, except by moving to a location (SoCal) where there is little rain!
Now that I have passed well into the lofty mileage range (currently 209k miles !!) I have been testing the limits of the power train and handling. There are numerous times when the manual transmission, along with a certain unconcern for possilbly blowing up the engine, and a pegged tach have allowed me to blow by HEMI cars/trucks on demanding grades. I have no idea what HONDA put into the replacement transmission, but it seems idiot proof, and darn near indestructible.
I highly recommend doing your own maintenance for anything you can figure out. I no linger cringe at replacing the front half axels, which you will replace regularly if you keep on driving. Keep putting in the oil, and other fluids and it will keep on running.
Buy it new and just keep driving it!
True, but the transmissions from 4-cylinder Accords are pretty bulletproof relative to other autos, best I can tell. I have 166,400 miles on mine, and it still shifts like it did when new. Couldn't say that about our Chryslers - they both needed one before the 36k mile warranty had expired!
I read somewhere that Honda tries to design its cars to last something like 150k with careful maintenance, some repairs, and good luck. Honda's are so well engineered, however, that I think it's fairly common for people to go to 175k or even 200k--again with careful maintenance, some repairs, and some luck. Although some people get more than 200k, I think they are exception rather than the rule.
I've seen ads for new Accord VPs with manual transmissions for sale here for $16,900. That model has ac, stereo, 6 airbags, abs, etc (the last two features are not on a 2001 Accord). If your credit is good, Honda would be happy to finance you if you can't pay for the whole thing now. With a new Accord you get a car at the beginning of its life, whether its 100k, 150k, or 200k. Best guess is that the used Accord your thinking of has used up more than half of its life. Unless it's really cheap, I think you should get a new VP. Plus the new i-VTEC engines get about 2 mpg better than the earlier generation, while at the same time being more powerful.
The car runs fine, original alternator, transmission, and everything that usually plays out is still working and original (including exhaust). Still and a tight car too.
Right now I've been trying to buy a CRV with Navi, what a hassle that has been. I'm ready to just keep driving Little Green until she falls apart!
That being said, I am looking at the new CRV also. Probably waiting a few more months...the '07's are very popular right now.
Dealing on an 07 CRV is a nightmare. If you can find one, everyone wants sticker plus a dealer fee. You're smart to wait a few months 'til things settle down a bit.
I have a 2006 EX Accord that I got last year, but my daily driver into downtown B'ham (where parking stinks) is still my 1996 Accord that I got when I turned 15. It now has 170,000 miles on it and is showing no signs of stopping. I will keep that car until the wheels fall off or it physically says "I'm dying, please stop driving me." Until then, it will be the car I go to Home Depot in, drive in severe weather, and wherever I know parking is bad. The rest of the time, i drive my new car, and keep door dings and hail dents away from my new one.
....thass almost identical reasoning with regard to retaining my old diesel pickup all these years (thru six new cars)....
..Home Depot, severe wx and ding intensive parking....
(plus - low and slow - the 1.6 oil burner gets 55 mpg)
hang in there, grad
..best, ez...
BTW, I currently have 15,500 miles on my 2006 EX, we just haven't "bonded" yet.
thegrad
BTW, my mom had a '95 with leather and a tailfin that she was going to GIVE me to replace LG about 3 years ago, but I decided to keep LG instead.
If and when I get my new CRV, I'm afraid I may have to sell her this time because now parking is at a premium in my driveway. My fiance has 3 vehicles (1 for work, 1 regular driver and a 66 Chevy Nova) and it's a total nightmare shuffling around 4 cars right now.
vehicles had lot of transmission issues. The current owner of the car told me that the transmission was recently replaced and I checked
with Honda and they confirmed that.
Now transmission has warranty of upto
109,000 miles or 7Years and 9months. That means another 1 and half years from today or 30,000 miles whichever comes first.
Otherwise the car looks good but this thing has put a doubt in my mind. Please suggest if I should buy this car or not? Is new transmission a good thing or it may create new problems for me after a few thousand miles when I will have no warranty.
Appreciate all responses
Have the spark plugs ever been changed? If so, by whom?
My mechanic says anything over 130k not good idea and timing belt will be costly, if needed. The owner is moving to mainland and reduced price from $1,000 to $800. On the other hand, my mechanic, who I trust implicitly, has an '88
Camry which is fine, $1,000, but seems to have very little pick-up. Mechanic hasn't seen the Accord. I prefer the Accord. Is it true it's a risk at 154k and what could that engine light that's not turning off mean?
That said, I posted earlier that I still hve my 1991 EX Accord "Little Green." She has 164,000 miles and is going strong. I hear tell that they have a lifespan of 250-300,000, so I think if you buy that one for $800 you'll get your money's worth!
Timing belt could be a concern on any car in that price bracket. I think my engine light is on alot too-- I don't know why, my car is fine. I think it's just a little quirk since no car that age is going to be 100% perfect.
You ought to consider taking it to AutoZone and having the CEL code checked for free. It'll at least let you know what the light is on for, at no cost to you.
I've read two used-car buying books and even spent a miserable week a long time ago trying to sell new cars at a dealership. And I'm in no rush. So I feel almost prepared to deal with the crap. I'm willing to buy out of state if I can save $1,000 or more. Even so, I don't want to waste my time.
If a dealer is advertising a price below trade-in (average of Edmunds, KBB and NADA) is it worth even looking in to? Or can I assume there's a catch?
Here's an example. "Atlanta Best Deals, LLC" has an '04 w/Nav with 53,564 miles for $13,900. (Autotrader ID AT-D98E17B)
Edmunds pricing is Trade:$14,393, Private: $16,171, Retail $17,753. KBB and NADA have trade numbers about $1k less.
I've googled the Atlanta "Best Deals" dealer and haven't found much. If I was close to buying I'd check the BBB.
Thanks for your help!
just let me know your opinions on this, whether the price is correct and whether i doing a correct thing, as i have seen the problem with transmission, the owner said he had no problem with it.
let me wait for your comments.... thanks.... hari
Is this a good deal?
Thanks
I love my 2006 EX 4-cyl (no leather); averages 35-38 on the highway at 75 MPH!