Isuzu Trooper repair manuals

rocks911

I'm looking for a 2000 trooper repair manual. The manuals that are readily available are a little too brief for me. I do most of my own wrenching and need a really comprehensive manual. I just purchased the 2000 trooper and it's the first Isuzu I've owned so I'm not very familiar with them.

The vehicle is a little cold natured and runs rough early in the day after just being started, I suppose it needs a tune-up, also the A/C needs a little attention, not quite cold enough, as it cycles there are times when it's blowing warm air. otherwise I'm happy

Can anyone hook me up with a manual recommendation, or web site, or whatever.

Thanks in advance

boxtrooper

I don't know where you can get a comprehensive manual, but I think they are expensive. Personally, I would do an ebay search and go to the local dealers that have sold Isuzu in the past but that are no longer Isuzu dealers and see if they would sell their old shop manual at much lower than the new price.
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The rough idle at cold might be either a bad EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) Valve which does not fully close, and that lets too much air in while cold. On my 2001 Trooper the EGR valve is known to go bad around 70K miles because the valve was poorly designed (a GM part) and the replacement is supposedly better and should last the life of the engine. Or there could be an intake manifold gasket leak, the intake manifold is built as a heat shield and is a complicated gasket, sometimes they crack.
..
The not quite cold A/C might be the extra fan in front of the radiator, it was added when Isuzu Trooper began using the new formula freon coolant, some Troopers with the new freon were built without the extra fan. I had a 1995 with the old freon, it was instantly ice cold, even on the hottest days I could not run it on high too long or the family would complain of being cold. Or you could be low on freon.

xyclonis

I took my '99 Trooper in for a oil change and the mechanic (dealer) told me that the front outer axle boots are leaking. The dealer tells me it will costs me $1247.02 to fix it and I am sick to my stomach. He told me it would be wiser to replace the axle as oppose to fixing the boots because of the labor costs. My trooper has a new engine, brakes, tires, the TOD system has been replaced, etc... Anyone have any ideas? I know replacing all these things are sunk costs but I have only a year left on the loan and I wish I could ride it out. How long before this problem becomes worse?

atfdmike

Hi, It is not unusual for the outer axle boots (bellows) to eventually crack and leak lubricant (CV grease). What is important is whether or not the CV joints are clean and not making any noise or clunking particularly when turning. If the only problem is the tear or leakage of the bellows, then there are aftermarket boot kits which don't require the removal of the axle or disassembly of the joint to replace the boot.
Opinions will no doubt vary on the quality of the product, but as a stop gap solution, this would be the way to go if you do not want to tear down the vehicle.
A full line auto parts store should have or know where to get these boots. Basically, you remove the old rubber boot and clamps, install the replacement boot kit which has (typically) an overlapping seam that allows installation around the joint and new clamps that keep it closed and in position once it is closed around the joint.
My experience is that the worst part of the installation is the removal of the old clamps that hold the original boot on the axles. You also need to regrease the CV joint while you are in the process of putting the replacement boot on. If you have some mechanical ability and tools, this is not an impossible job. Otherwise, a mechanic,not necessarily a dealer, would be able to do this for you as well.
Here is what alldata says about the original parts and labor time, which might help you decide if you are getting ripped if you go to the dealer:
1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
Vehicle Level Transmission and Drivetrain Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints Axle Shaft Assembly Constant Velocity Joint Boot Parts Information


Parts Information

Part OEM Part Price
Constant Velocity Joint Boot
Front Axle
Boots
Outer Boot Kit 8971172210 $109.45
Inner Boot Kit 8971172200 $109.45


Labor Skill B
Level Mfg.
Warranty Standard
Constant Velocity Joint Boot
Replace
Front Axle
One Side
One 3.4 hr
Both 3.9 hr

For a dealer under warranty, they were allowed about 4 hours per side and the parts cost to perform the work...so about $440 for parts and 8 hours for the replacement of 4 boots and both axles. Dealer per hour charges vary. The replacement aftermarket boot is definitely cost effective. Look around. One owners opinion!!
Good luck.

carlos111

Manuals are available at:
https://isuzusource.com/v2/store.php?category=3&visitor=yes
http://www.helminc.com/helm/search_service_owner.asp?Style=&class%5F2=AIM&mscsid- =SF0KT1TKTU5F8MA2L5XRJJVRF4SU8873

Expensive but I saw a site that rents access to info for $20/day.
I just bought '99 Trooper (69,000 mi) in May. I check the oil every tankfull and have an OBD II scanner for piece of mind. Right now have code P0440, which I believe is an indication that the EGR system needs attention. Looking for info on how to R/R.

Carlos

tmacias

My mecanic and I were working on my 2000 trooper, changed timing belt, serpentine belt, starter, spark plugs and fluids. Now none of the left cylinders (3.5 V6 engine) are working and we get a code PO1310. There is spark going there but for some reason it is still missing. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Tmac

atfdmike

Circuit Description
The Power Control Module (PCM) checks the validity of the signals used in the ION Sensing module at the following engine operating conditions.

The Deceleration Fuel Cut Off (DFCO) test is performed to evaluate the Combustion Quality (CQ) signal pulse width if it is below a predetermined value, the value it is expected to be during DFCO conditions. If the CQ signal pulse width is above the predetermined threshold, the fail counter will be incremented. If the failure counter exceeds the calibration, then the test is complete and a failure will be reported.
The Power Enrichment (PE) test is performed to evaluate the Combustion Quality (CQ) signal pulse width if it is below a predetermined value, the value it is expected to be during PE conditions. If the CQ signal pulse width is above the predetermined threshold, the fail counter will be incremented. If the failure counter exceeds the calibration, then the test is complete and a failure will be reported.
The Combustion Quality (CQ) test is performed to check if inappropriate (CQ) signal status were detected. If missing CQ pulses or multiple CQ pulses or CQ pulse width calculation errors were detected, the fail counter will be incremented. If the failure counter exceeds the calibration, then the test is complete and a failure will be reported.
Conditions for setting the DTC

Ignition voltage is between 10 volt and 16 volts .
MAP sensor signal is between 26kPa and 100 kPa .
Fuel level is more than 10% .
Engine speed is between 650 rpm and 6500 rpm .
No Crank DTCs set.
No System voltage DTCs set.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The PCM will illuminate the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) the first time the fault is detected.
The PCM calculates an air flow value based on Idle air Control valve position, throttle position, RPM and barometric pressure.
The PCM will store condition which were present when the DTC was set as Freeze Frame and in the Failure Records data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

The PCM will turn the MIL "OFF " on the third consecutive trip cycle during which the diagnostic has been run and the fault condition is no longer present.
A history DTC P1310 will clear after 40 consecutive trip cycle during which the warm up cycles have occurred without a fault.
DTC P1310 can be cleared using the Tech 2 "Clear Info" function or by disconnecting the PCM battery feed.
Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent may be caused by the following:

Poor connections.
Mis routed harness.
Rubbed through wire insulation.
Broken wire inside the insulation. Check for the following conditions:
Poor connection at PCM - Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness - Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the sensor.
A change in the display will indicate the location of the fault. If DTC P1310 cannot be duplicated, the information included in the Failure Records data can be useful in determined vehicle mileage since the DTC was last set.

If it is determined that the DTC occurs intermittently, performing the DTC P1310 Diagnostic Chart may isolate the cause of the fault.

jeremylo

I was trying to remove the starter on my 99 trooper, and I started to loosen the adjustment bolt on the torsion bar. How do I get it back to normal so I don't mess anything up? "> :confuse: :

atfdmike

I have only changed starter on 3.2 engine, but I have never heard of anyone having to remove or loosen torsion bar. Regardless, Generally you have to count the number of turns on the bolt, and even then you reinstall and then measure the height from the ground to the frame on both sides. I have read that 4 complete revolutions equals one inch of travel upward.
Good luck
PS. Do a forum search and I am sure you can find someone else who has changed a starter on your model.

francis4

i recently purchased a 94 isuzu trooper s, it has 133000 miles on it.i paid $1800 for it. i took it to the mechanic and he found some problems with it, he said the intake gasket has a small leak and the oil pan gasket has a small leak he flushed the transmission fluid, power steering fluid, did a front end alignment, replaced fuel filter,and cleaned fuel injector. and replaced the air filter. it ran about $460. not sure if it was worth it or if i got taken for a ride. any thoughts? also it runs a little rough at idle and when i go to take off it hesitates a little then goes. not sure if i should replace the spark plugs or if its the gasket leak causing this problem.

atfdmike

Hi, I have a 94 too, with DOHC. Intake gasket leaks are very common for these motors, usually just have to replace with new one time and that is it. The hesitation and rough idle are most common symptoms of gasket leak.
This engine requires a timing belt change every 60,000 miles, and you can find lots of info on that with a forum search. It is a non interference motor, which means it should not be harmed if the belt does break, but who wants to find out the hard way? I would say you could try the spark plugs first as they are easy to do with right tools and least expensive option. The intake gasket replacement is considerably more time and effort.....4 to 5 hours plus cost of gaskets. The intake is a two or three piece, depending on engine. SOHC is easier to do but still time consuming.
Hope this helps, good luck.

jalder

It finally snowed, and when I engaged 4wd, the warning light came on. We have had a small, slow leak front the front differential. Is this the likely cause of the warning light, how difficult is it to at least top up the differential, and any hints or special tools?

Thanks
Jim

atfdmike

Not sure what year you have, checked your profile but no info, but generally it is easy to top off diff once you get the fill plug out. Invest in a cheap plunger type fill tool from the part store and it is easy to pump fluids in and out. On level surface fill to withing 1/4 inch of fill hole (usually when fluid runs out of hole).
I don't know of any diffs that have a level sensor that would set off the light. If you have later Trooper with SOTF then your front axle actuator may be sticking......
If earlier model, then transfer case sensor.......
IF TOD, then more complicated.............

stonepilot57

My problem with the clutch started recently, went out one morning and the clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there. Found a leak on the master cylinder where the push rod comes through the firewall, r&r the master cylinder, and bled the clutch. Everything seemed to work for two days, went out and again the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. Can't tell where the leak is or what is happening, have since bled the system two more times with the same results. Works for a day then poof, bleeds out. Any help out there?

jalder

Thanks for you reply. I have a 98 TOD, Can you add any insight to what I am facing, or need to do?

Thanks,

Jim

atfdmike

I am not a professional, but generally, I would first check the electrical connectors . then the TOD sensors. One is mounted on Transfer case where front prop is attached, similar sensor on rear of case where rear prop attached. These connectors are exposed to weather, etc; and become corroded, so careful attention and cleaning with safe solvent is important. Be careful not to bend pins, and grease with dielectric grease ( when done) to help keep them weatherproof.
The TOD module is inside the vehicle, if memory serves it may be under pass. seat. Check that connectors are still fully inserted there too.
The TOD sensors are an expensive part, so it is not like you want to buy them and replace them until you are sure one or the other is the problem. You will really need a service manual if you get to the point where everything else has been tried.
this is most common place to start. Once done, you can try it and see if it helps.
Hopefully, someone else will chime in to help. I am sure if you do a forum search you will learn more about the system.

atfdmike

Your best bet for an OEM Isuzu manual may be Jerry at Jlemond@bellsouth.net

He has lots of original parts and manuals, and I have bought many parts from him.

He is great to deal with. Just drop him an email telling him what you are looking for.

sorob

I have the same exact Problem. did you ever get it fixed?

successisforme

i found a manual for my 2001 trooper on ebay......in the form of a CD for 7.00 and free shipping...

stever

I have access to them free online through my library. Might be worth checking.

Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online

bownarrow

I was told that this engine's timing belt was "zero tolerance" and that meant it wouldn't tear everything else up if it broke. Trying to decide whether to change it or not, records indicate 70K since last changed

atfdmike

The 3.2 is a "non-interference" engine which means if the timing belt goes, there "should" be no damage to the valves or pistons. I think the timing belt interval was changed from 60,000 to 100,000 for your year. HTH. One guys opinion.
PS> There is another 3.2 Direct Injected engine that is an Interference engine, but I don't think it was available in 97.

5dennis5

REPLACEMENT OF AXLES + BOOTS REQUIRE 8+ HOURS OF LABOR, PLUS PARTS.. ALL I NEED ARE BOOTS !! THE CV JOINTS ARE TIGHT + THERE'S NO CLICKING/CLUNKING ON EITHER SIDE.. THERE IS GREASE IN THE CRACKED BOOTS SO IT'S STILL WORKING, BUT I KNOW WHAT DIRT, WATER, + FOREIGN MATERIALS CAN DO IF NOT ATTENDED TO..
BASICALLY, I WANT + NEED A SPLIT BOOT TO FIX THE PROBLEM, ONLY EVERY PLACE TELLS ME "THE BOOTS ONLY COME AS A SOLID PIECE THAT SLIDES OVER THE AXLE, + REQUIRES THE AXLE TO BE OFF THE VEHICLE TO BE REPLACED."
I KNOW THAT atfdmike SAID IN A REPLY THAT THEY DO MAKE A SPLIT BOOT THAT DOESN'T REQUIRE REMOVAL OF THE AXLE.. WHERE DO I FIND 4 OF THESE SO I CAN FIX THE TRUCK WITHOUT BREAKING MY WALLET ???