Mitsubishi Diamante Brake Issues
greenstone48
Member Posts: 1
in Mitsubishi
I have been following some of the older discussions on the Diamante brakes but on one has had this question.
I have a 2001 ES with 70,000 miles on it. At 60,000 the car needed new brake pads on the rear. The dealer indicated that the disks should be turned as well. So the work was done. Then at 68,000 the ABS light started coming on when the car was started and staying on but it was intermittent. Sometimes light on, sometimes not. Had the dealer check it out ($80.00). Was told there was a bad sensor in one of the rear hubs. Question, could the brake job have caused this or do the sensors have an issue on the 2001? I ask because the hub needs to be rplaced to replace the sensor and this is going to be a $400.00 plus visit.
I have a 2001 ES with 70,000 miles on it. At 60,000 the car needed new brake pads on the rear. The dealer indicated that the disks should be turned as well. So the work was done. Then at 68,000 the ABS light started coming on when the car was started and staying on but it was intermittent. Sometimes light on, sometimes not. Had the dealer check it out ($80.00). Was told there was a bad sensor in one of the rear hubs. Question, could the brake job have caused this or do the sensors have an issue on the 2001? I ask because the hub needs to be rplaced to replace the sensor and this is going to be a $400.00 plus visit.
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Comments
I did have the front rotors turned for grinding when braking. But this was a small price to pay for the return
response!
CJ
The first thing to do is to remove the little rubber cap on rotor. That is the access port to the emergency brake tension adjuster. Aline the hole to about 11:00 and spin the gear looking thing with a standard screw driver to loosen the emergency brake tension. Sorry, don't remember which direction. I still had to take a large pry bar AND a gear puller to force it to slide off. I was real close to attempting to cut it off with an angle grinder, but thankfully the gear puller worked. Hope this helps.
George
Now I got to figure out fix for the infamous heater core issue! Any help out there with DIY procedure short of removing the entire instrument panel ?
Thanks to my son with the national guard. Who did the job for me. Husband is not happy he could not do it. hehehehe
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The first thing you should do is have the air conditioning
serviced by some one who has the equipment to remove the
r134 properly.
There are two ways of fixing leaking antifreeze from the heater
core. One is to change the O-rings on the heater core only and
the other is to change the heater core.
I started out trying to change the O-rings only, when I looked at
the O-rings I was not absolutely sure antifreeze was only leaking
there so I decided the heater core may need to be changed.
To Change the Heater Core the entire dashboard must come off
so that the core can be removed.
The first thing was removal of the r134 by a service station. I
removed the antifreeze and disconnected both hoses from the
firewall that go into the heater core. I disconnected the negative
connection from the battery because I did not want the air bags
to go off. Inside the car I took the glove box off first. Then remove
the passenger side air bag it could be unclipped, handle
with lots of care. The trim plate on the passenger floor left side
must come off also.
On the driver side the steering wheel must be removed and the
plastic housing around the steering post. The blinker lever and
light lever must be removed. Handle air bag with care when
Removing to steering wheel off. You will need a steering wheel
puller. I removed the trim collar around the instrument panel
two Philips screws and it snaps out. Tip: it easier if you can push
on any clip from the rear they will snap out easier. The instrument
cluster has four philips screws and comes out easily. The
bottom of the driver side dash must be removed.
The center panels and radio must come out. Open the coin box
and pull lightly on the rear of the wood grain, it unclips. Work
your way up and unclip to the front of the wood grain then remove
it. Next remove the ashtray, this can be pulled out with
help from pushing on clips from behind. On top of the radio the
air vents also unclip. There are four screws that hold in the radio
and heater control box. The console will also have to be loosened
and moved back about an inch to make way for the dash
removal. There are six screws total, two front, two under coin
box that needs to be removed and two under rear glove box
console.
The dashboard screws need to be removed all underneath. There
are two screws up in front under the speakers, the speakers pop
out and you will see the 10mm bolts. The dash should now be
ready for removal. The metal chassis that you see in picture B
does not have to come out but I loosened all 10mm bolts for
room to take out heater housing. In Picture B you also see AC
evaporator on floor after removal. After the dashboard is removed
you can take out the fan blower and air conditioner
evaporator box remove the 12mm bolts (Picture C). This white
plastic is made up of 3 sections that need to be separated for access
to heater core.
See next page.
Picture A This white box is the heater assembly
that needs to come out to the right side for
removal of Heater core. Black vent pops out
pull up.
Picture B Center chassis metal brackets
Picture C Two sections come apart after 12mm bolts
are removed and black plastic round buttons.
Diamante 2001 LS 73,000 miles
Heater Core Replacement
This picture was taken with camera up against firewall. This heater box unit needs to
slide out to the right so you can unscrew heater core from plastic section. Be careful
when removing because antifreeze will leek out of pipes in car.
Hope this helps because I spent a lot more time trying to think about the removal of this
unit than actually doing it. I think some of these pictures and instruction would have
saved me a lot of time.
Mike D.
Not an experienced mechanic just a guy who does not want to spend $1200 on this job.
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THAT'S THE DESCRIPTION BUT I COULDN'T GET THE PHOTOS TO COPY
Replaced them with semi-metallics and all problems fixed.
Any experience like this from others?
Thanks for the help
http://ricartmitsubishiparts.com/
Once you removed the heater core, did it appear to be leaking from any other area besides the gasket connection? Curious if you thought all the trouble of removing instrument panel was worth it. I have to tackle same job soon, and wondering which route to take. Thanks.
You can remove ABD sensor from wheel hub by removing one mounting bolt, applying WD40 or other rust penetrant, and working around the edges of sensor mounting flange with a thin bladed screwdriver. It make take a while, but can certainly be done without drilling it out. Thats dealer talk to scare you off from doing it yourself. Regarding salvage yard, get out the yellow pages and pick up the phone - no other way to find one. Ask each yard, after they tell you they dont have one, who'd they recommend. I finally got lucky and was directed to a huge import only yard that had 8 late model Diamantes. There are simple tests to see if ABS sensor works while still on the vehicle (I'll explain in later posting), but more than likely you'll be ok with just paying the $150 for the wheel hub and being on your way. It's a lot cheaper than the other route and you'll feel good not paying the dealer. Once you replace the faulty sensor, the ABS / TCL light will not come back on.
Indymarco
I, too, had pulsing starting at about 25000. I always use a torque wrench when tightening the wheel nuts. I installed a dial indicator and measured the disc runout and also 'miked' the thickness. My conclusion is that Mitsu doesn't "season" the discs properly before machining. There were hard spots causing thickness variations of as much as 0.003"and warpage as much as 0.005".
Interestingly, only the front discs did this.
Regarding testing all four ABS wheel sensor> There are two key tests: Check for opens and grounds, terminal resistance of each ABS wheel sensor circuit should be between 1.4 - 1.8 kilohms. Check for proper AC voltage output of sensor, voltage should be at 50 mV minimum when wheel is rotated at 1 turn per second.. These checks can be done most conveniently at the master ABS terminal block in engine compartment on passenger side next to firewall. If you're looking at ABS master terminal block, then I can tell you which wiring connector position goes to each of the four wheel sensors. You can also perform these checks at each wheel sensor after jacking up each side of car. If you need more explanation, let me know.
Indymarco
Also note that if you have problems with the ECU/ECM, this can make your transmission go nuts!
Good Luck to All!
I still love my Diamante!
I also replaced the O2 sensor and did the battery disconnect. Started the car and the check engine light stayed on. Restarted and light was off and restarted again and the light came back on and has stayed on. Did the battery disconnect for ten minutes and restarted and the light stayed off but on restart it comes back on. When I bought the part online the guy assured me he was sending the correct part but it was for a 3.0 Eclipse and not a 3.5 Diamante-different part numbers. He said they did that all the time and it would work. Is that a parts error and my mistake for listening to that guy? Needless to say the time for returning the part is long gone. Any suggestions. By replacing one sensor could that cause others to show/go bad?(Car has 65,677 miles. Could it be time for just one of those annoying automatic check engine lights that come on just to get you to return to the dealer for some kind of service. I do oil changes myself and just had one done as a quick job at the local Jiffy Lube.)
Thanks. Any help would be appreciated since these parts are so costly.
I had a 1996 Diamante (Japanese import, right hand drive) & when I brought it a yellow cable that went from behind the right front tyre up along under the bonnet (I am unsure of where it went to) cut... As I the car was repossesed I figured it was the alarm for the car so left it... My Diamante was seen to by a couple of different mechanics as well as an automotive electrician & nothing was said to me about this cable...
I was recently in an accident in my Diamante & my brakes failed... I am now sure that the cable that was cut was the ABS brake cable as the light never came on & whenever I used my brakes in an emergency the brake pedal would go to the floor & I would hear clunking of cables...
Does anyone know for sure if the ABS brakes have a wire that goes from one of the front tyres up through the bonnet & down by the engine bay???
I have been reading this post you did on the ABS of the Diamantes. I too have had the ABS and TCL lights on for awhile. The dealer wanted $1700+ to fix it. I had a shop check the sensors ands they said they could not see anything wrong, they said it was probably the computer chip that is bad. Problem is I cannot find anyone who will sell one to me. Do you have any suggestions?
Thanks