Isuzu Trooper Maintenance and Repair

phototone

I've got this older 1984 Trooper II with 1.9L engine. Sometimes it experiences a loss of power, gradually slowing down. If I stop the vehicle for a few minutes, ignition off, then the power is restored. Engine power (horsepower), not electrical power, I have no problem with electrical power. It is puzzling. I have replaced an inline fuel filter and cleaned the fuel screen on the carb. Any ideas?

renet10

I just wanted to wish everyone a happy holiday. This is the time to be thankful. I am thankful to all of the advice that has allowed me to proudly say me 1994 Isuzu Trooper has 227,000 and counting. I wish all of you the same.

boxtrooper

photone,
How repeatable is the problem? The length of time it takes to have the problem, if it is fairly consistent can help determine the problem, a part getting hot for example.
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My 1984 Trooper 1.9L had an engine computer in the glove box. It was possible to connect a couple pins together on the computer to cause it to blink codes on the dash idiot lights. If you can get the shop manual, there is instructions and a table of code, their meaning, and what to check to correct the problem. Do you have any dash idiot light coming on?
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How long do you have to wait with the engine off to restore power? The time that takes might help, to determine what part is recovering, the recovery time is important.
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Does the engine act like it is running out of spark or fuel or air?
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Things that mess with timing can cause loss of power, the computer adjusts your timing based on sensors on the engine.
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Something else I changed was the throttle body, a plate with the butterfly valve at the bottom of the carburetor. I noticed a significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft because of rough idling. A vacuum leak can cause loss of power.
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I drove my 1984 Trooper 201K miles. It always was reliable. I had the optional power steering, the tensioner pully for that was defective, Isuzu designed a better pully and that fixed it. The 1.9L engine is "the little engine that could". IT is very easy to work on. A friend of mine rebuilt his LUV truck's 1.9L engine and it turned out like new, the look of satisfaction n his face when it started up and purred beautifully was priceless.

phototone

Today the problem was very bad. Went on a 300 mile trip, and I had to stop every 20 minutes or so, as the engine would lose enough power to not go above 25 mph downhill. Waiting with the engine off for about 10 minutes restores power for another 20 minutes or so. The engine does not overheat, the temperature guage stays very steady, and this is verified by personal touch on the engine. It has plenty of antifreeze and oil. My Trooper is carburetter, and the idle is very smooth. I think I will replace the fuel pump, since I have a new one already here. But I am sceptical that this is the problem. You talk about a computer and dashboard lights giving a readout. I don't have any type of digital display for a readout to show up on. The only "computerized" function that I can see is that the distributor is pointless, having a sensor under the rotor, rather than points.

boxtrooper

phototone, The dash light for the computer codes is just blinking of a regular dash light bulb, the one that says check engine, if I remember correctly.
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For example: 3 short blinks followed by a pause then 1 short blink followed by a longer pause would translate into code 31.

utahdust

Got my used 94 in July and went 4wheeling a few times (nothing harsh just some bumpy Utah desert and mountain trails and the 4WD seem to work fine but when it came time to use the 4WD in its first snowy ride (with me) I had no problem spinning the rear wheels and the fronts didn't seem to be locked or pulled their load. I couldn't tell if the hubs locked like they did in the warm weather with the distintive "clik". I can't hear any audible lockup or "clik" and I go back and forth in 4hi and 4lo and back into 2hi and back again a few times. I still am able to spin the rears in the snow a bit but the fronts don't seem to be grabbing all that well.
Is this normal for the the troop? I am used to 4X chevy suburban front axle chatter etc. Also at one point I heard a rattling sound coming from the front a couple of times and once reminded me of a noisy shock absorber rattle / thump but hasn't sounded of since I first heard it a month ago in November.
WhatchathinkitkoodB? :confuse:

simorgh

hi
i have an isuzu trooper 1989 4 cylinder. I was driving it today in highway. suddenly the red engine light came on and i in a few second, the car turnned off. i was forced to pull out the road. i checked the engine. the oil and cords and anti freeze looked fine. i tried to restart. it did not turn on. i felt the fuel is not comming. (but i might be wrong)
is there anyone that can tell me what could be the problem? thank you.

Cameron :sick:

atfdmike

If you are sure that the transfer case is engaging and the front prop is spinning but you still are not getting 4WD, then:
You need to check the auto hubs to make sure the circlip on the shaft is still in place. Since it is an open differential, neither side will feel engaged if only one side is working right. Damage can be done to the outer splines if allowed to continue. If the splines are OK, and clips are there, then the hub itself needs to be checked and cleaned and greased properly. If the splines are damaged, cheapest repair is to put manual hubs on, as they don't use the outer spline. Otherwise, you would have to replace the stub axle.

atfdmike

Start with basics......is there fuel to engine? If not, then fuel pump may be shot. check the fuel filter....when was it last changed, and if you have to do pump, change it too. Check battery posts, etc for corrosion. Good starts.

cplreed

I have a 91 trooper II with 180,000 miles on it its a 2.6L 4cyl. and I have a problem. When I go to start the car it'll start and run for like 2-3 sec. and then dies. It takes about 20 times of cranking it before it'll stay running. And while i'm driving its fine doesn't stutter or anything but, when I push in the clutch to stop and let it idle my check engine light, o2 sensor light, brake check light and low fuel warning light all come on, and they go away when I start to drive again. I'am so lost. I think it might be the fuel relay or my computer. If anyone has any advice please let me know.

atfdmike

Isuzus are prone to electric gremlins if the alternator is failing or there is a bad connection somewhere like at battery terminals and connectors. I suggest that you get an accurate voltage meter and check the charging system before assuming it is something else. Good luck.

kevinm

Hi all,

My reliable 2001 Trooper (64kmiles) started spotting my garage floor with what I thought was oil, but upon further looking, it appears to be the transfer case??

Can someone eyeball this picture and confirm this is the transfer case? The leak comes from this circular plastic insert, that I can't figure out if I can or should tighten it or replace it. It has no surfaces like an allen bolt would have so I'm perplexed. thanks for any ideas.

http://www.carspace.com/kevinm/Albums/Trooper/Trooper%20Engine%20Pic.jpg/page/ph- oto.html#pic

-Kevin

bigredtrooper

That's your engine. That slender pan is the oil sump. As far as I know, there is nothing that can be done, unless you are the original owner and the vehicle has less than 120,000 miles.

If that's the case, then you may be able to have it repaired under warranty.

atfdmike

that is not your transfer case. That is the Adapter body added to the 4L30E transmission so it could have a lock up converter. It is a messy job and there is a special tool to remove the cover after removing the retainer, but it is a common problem for leaking. New cover and seal are not too expensive. Paying someone else to do it is expensive. Can be done if you have some tools and mechanical ability. One guys opinion.

PS did some research and found this from a good mechanic on this:
HI ALAN WHERE BC IS TALKING ABOUT IS ON THE RT SIDE OF THE TRANS THERE IS A SERVO PISTON THAT HAS SNAP RING HOLDING IT IN AND IT IS NOTORIOUS FOR LEAKING AND TI WILL RUN DOWN THE SIDE OF THE TRANS AND MIGRATE INTO THE EDGE OF THE BELL HOUSING AREA , BUT USUALLY NOT THAT STEADY OF A LEAK, JERRY

And this:
WOW!!!! They were really going to take me to the cleaners for this!!! I got a callback this evening and the estimate they quoted me was $540!!! Allegedly, they couldn't get just the cover and new ring without ordering the whole servo/piston package, the parts just didn't come separately. So they wanted the go-ahead to replace the whole unit!

SHENANEGANS!!!! I called St. Charles and spoke to Merlin (the man!). I simply asked him what parts were neccessary to fix the leaking accumulator piston cover.... $10 worth of parts!!! I went ahead and ordered the stuff (it was the least I could do) and took my case to the service dept at Isuzu. In so many words I told them there's no 'right or wrong' to their repair recommendation, but let's call a spade a spade; I did not need a new $540 servo! I said this is the way I want you to repair it (per [St. Charles'] standard procedure), and they were more than happy to oblige. Damn straight!

Buyer beware!!!! Being an informed consumer saved me some $400, and I would have been a sucker if not for this community. It kills me how they insisted there was no other (cheaper) way to fix it.... well they were in for a suprise; momma didn't raise no fool! I'm sure labor ($90/hr) could be found cheaper elsewhere too, but at this point I was content to set an example. Besides, this dealership is right around the corner from me and it'd be a shame if I ever did need something serious, I'd have to go miles to find the next closest one. In short, thanks for everyone's concern.

These are the part #s in case anyone else needs 'em:
Snap ring: 8-96015-714-0
Cover: 8-96017-093-0

BTW: Although they admitted it looked like it could've been leaking for an indeterminate amount of time, there was no chance at letting it slide under any warranty coverage. I dunno how far out it was but I'm at 52K miles and the (original) in-serve date was Dec 2000. Your guess is as good as mine when it comes to warranty coverage for non-original owners.

Cheers!

Also, that narrow pan is for the trans too. I think it may have been mistaken for something else by previous posters.

kevinm

Thanks all, for the great advice! It's a shame the dealer wouldn't cover this under the 10yr /120k warranty.

Did they replace your tranny fluid once they replaced the snap ring and cover?

Also, is the St.Charles procedure available to any shop? I wouldn't mind having this done at a local shop as our local Isuzu dealer closed it doors about 2 years ago and the nearest one is about an hour away.

-Kevin

atfdmike

If you don't know the history on your fluid, it would not hurt to change it, but if you are careful and clean then I don't see why you would have to change it. Clean the area with brake cleaner before working on it, and use care and should have no problem.
The St. Charles Procedure as you call it is just the reference to the Isuzu dealer a lot of us use to get parts from. You can find them online, and their parts department is great. Usually get parts you ordered within a day or two. The point he was trying to make is that it is a relatively minor job to remove and replace, especially if the proper care and tools are used. Many owners can do it ourselves. I have read where a screwdriver properly used can get the cover out, so the dealer tool is not always the only way to do it. Any good mechanic should be able to do this. Make sure to check fluid level when complete and refill as necessary.

krg150

i have a 1988 trooper that i just purchased that had been setting for three years and had a bad fuel pump on it i changed the pump and filter and several vac hoses and it ran fine in fact ran superiseingly good any way i had used about a half tank of gas and it started acting like it was running out of gas i took the hose loose at the throttle body and it had psi on it i turn off the engine and let set for few minutes and start it up and it will run so so for a little bit and them it will start cutting out like it isnt getting any gas again so i changed the fuel filter again and that didnt help does any one have any suggestions for me

cplreed

I just replaced my fuel filter and it acts like its running out of gas like 30 seconds after running. I don't know if are problems are the same or what?

krg150

i dont think its quite the same mine will still run but as u go its starts looseing speed and power and then you stop and turn the engine off and then you will have a little more power for a while it just dosnt run like it should but i have about decieded that i may have to replace the new fuel pump again

boxtrooper

My 2001 Trooper's rear door switch seems to be sticking. If the door is left open a long time it will usually light the rear dome light. Sometimes if lucky it will work normally, but most of the time not.
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How do I get to the switch and how do I repair or lubricate it?
Thank You

muttley1

Noticing oil pressure fluctuation on my 2002 Trooper that just hit 44k miles. Oil level is fine and do not see any signs of leakage. Fluctuating between the mid-point on the gauge and a few ticks less, during normal driving. Just purchased so no idea as to how long this may have been occuring. Truck is 2WD, in South Florida.
Appreciate any thoughts as to cause and need for concern.

belaircarguy

Boxtrooper - Sounds like the rear door switch is sticking, as it does turn on the light after a period of time with the door open. You may want to try spraying the switch well with WD-40. I used this on the door switches of my Trooper and it seems to free up the stickiness and the lights come on / off instantly.

Good luck.

fine44

My Trooper has a lower-end noise that i think is rod/main bearings. However having looked this up in Mitchell on-Demand I can not find a proceedure for oil pan removal. Can anyone tell me if the oil pan can be removed without pulling the engine. I am a sports-car mechanic but have little exp. with 4wd.

Thanks

belaircarguy

Muttley1 - My 1996 Trooper will run between the mid point and the next lower mark on the oil pressure guage (mostly in town driving). Generally when the oil is fresh, the pressure is somewhat higher and as it ages, the pressures drops. Getting it on the highway at 65 MPH will increase the pressure. No leaks and no oil consumption. My mechanic stated all cars lose pressure as the engine ages, and it actually takes very little pressure to recirculate the oil in the engine. Unless the guage would be down at "0", I would not worry about it. My Trooper has performed this way or a number of years and runs great.

Enjoy your "new" Trooper! :shades:

atfdmike

It is common for the timing belt tensioner to sound like a rod knock when it is failing. I suggest checking the timing belt tension and condition, particularly the tensioner and pusher for proper operation BEFORE assuming it is a rod or bearing knock.
Yes, you can drop the pan, but it means removing the steering links and tie rods, and dropping the axle down til it rests on lower control arms (gotta be very careful of CV boots). Then remove starter and flywheel inspection plate to access rear pan bolts. It is a PITA, but doable.

trooperdude

Took wires off and hooked them up according to manual and dose not work. Moved coils around some time ago and they don't sit in right place any more. Need help with this

gahl

I had a Dakota with high mileage that was worrying me with the low readings from the oil pressure gauge - rather than start by tearing the engine apart I started with the cheapest & easiest - paid $24 for a new oil pressure sending unit & you can imagine how pleased I was when the gauge registered exactly what it should

gryle

I took my Trooper in for state inspections and the diagnostic computer gave me the your error PO141 error code, except it denotes Bank 1 Sensor 2. After reading the Chilton and poking around the undercarriage, I found there are actually four sensors on this particular model. Go to the rear of the car and follow the exhaust pipe towards the front and you'll find it branches out to either side. Each pipe has two screw-in type O2 sensors attached to it, one downstream from (what I assume to be) a catalytic converter and other downstream from an exhaust manifold. Couldn't tell you which bank is which though.

However, how does one go about replacing those sensors? I unscrewed them, but I can't figure out for the life of me how to remove them without slicing the wires. Am I supposed to slice them? Is there a trick I missed somewhere? Can anyone enlighten me?

fine44

Thanks, aftdmike
I have heard that the tensioner can make this noise, a fellow mechanic friend actually tried to sell an engine because of it. He was a bit red faced 3 days later when the customer pulled up and told him what the REAL problem was. This one i THINK is more terminal, however
the the timing cover is definetly coming off first.
But again,THANKS, that is the info i needed. I will let you know when i have a punch line to this knock-knock joke. though i myself might not see the humor

fine44

This applies to ALL OBD II vehicles. Bank 1 is the side #1 cylinder is on. (the most forward on the crankshaft).Sensor 1 is the one closest to the manifold, it is the one that tells the processor what the fuel mixture is,
it is often called the 'upsteam 02'. Sensor 2 is after the
catalytic convertor, Its job is to monitor catalyst efficiency, its often called the 'downstream 02'.
All the sensors DO have a connector, but the wires may go a few feet before you find it. I like to get the new sensor and check the wire length to get an idea of where the connector might be hiding. Also a code for B1S2 or B2S2 (any sensor 2 code) may be a bad catalytic convertor. I check them with an infared heat gun. outlet temp. should be At Least 50 degrees f hotter than inlet
example 350 @ inlet 430 @ outlet. Good luck

muttley1

Thank you and Belaircarguy for the feedback. The pressure seems to have been more stable over the past few days, which is comforting. We have put on several hundred miles over the past week and the Trooper is serving us well.

lugli

hi, i had the same problem with my trooper. my name is dan, it end being the cathalitic cnv that it went bad after the car was missfiring on bank 2. everything was due to a intake gasket leak. had to replace the cat, and 2 oxigene sensors. cat was installed by a mineke shop aftermarket for$ 220.00 dollars, never have same problem since. hope you don,t have same issue.also o2 sensor aftermarket they are sold for$ 42,50 to$ 59,50(bosh) good luck!

wlbrown9

'00 Trooper 2/wd 120K+ miles. Toward the end of last summer would notice drop in oil pressure. It normally runs a needle width below the midpoint labeled 85 when warm. The drops, some for a few miles, would seem to be down to between 10 & 30 psi. A time or two I think the oil was getting a little toward the add mark on the stick. But that did not seem to explain why it would drop and stay down for awhile. It almost seemed at times as if it would pick back up suddenly and I thought I could almost feel a surge when it picked back up to normal. I was wondering if I had some electrical problem or maybe it was a bad sending unit. Still don't really know for sure.

I was going on a 1200 mile round trip first part of October. I ended up changing from 10-30 to 10-40 oil. After driving the trip it seems that the pressure problems has corrected. Have not seen a real drop (to 15 or less psi on the guage) since then.

I was using a synthetic blend 10-30 (Phillips 66 brand I think) to top off the conventional 10-30 from VIOC or Jiffy Lube. Wondering if that combination was behaving badly. Also possible that extended driving might have warmed up the oil system and 'cleaned' up some gunk or sludge? I watch the oil guage pretty close now and am wondering if warm weather will cause the pressure drops to return.

Anyone else have any ideas?

lugli

i feel i,m driving a 2 stroke vehicle. got to mix the oil with gas, that,s how bad trooper burn oil (1 qt every 1000 miles) and it is normal too. if we use fully syntetic oil it will decrease , not much, but something is better than nothing

mentalboy

Hi. I purchased my trooper 3 years ago. It had about 150k... was lady driven, well maintained, never taken off road. I have been very careful with her. She's never abused and is regularly maintained. She just clicked over 200k.
I noticed on my last trip down-island, that her power was down. It hasn't gotten any worse, and she still pulls 75mph (about 120Km/hr) on the flats without any problem, but as soon as there is any uphill grade, she sucks. Can't figure it out, and I've mentioned the problem to several mechanics, and they can't figure it out either.
Do I smell an engine overhaul or rebuild?
Please help!!
Thank you so much.
Paul, Alert Bay, BC, Canada

atfdmike

Hi, when was the last tuneup? Plugs that are going bad often exhibit a loss of spark under load resulting sometimes in misses or poor performance. If it came on suddenly as you seem to say, have you done anything else lately with it that could have contributed (ie: fueled up, air filter, etc? Have you seen a CEL at any point?
I don't have your model, so I can't offer more, but for the sake of discussion what engine is it? What transmission?
Welcome to forum, it helps to put your year, model and engine trans info in your signature when you post.

wlbrown9

I would also wonder about the catalytic converter...wonder if it is gradually getting restricted? That could possible account for performance but not sure if it would happen like that.

mdenman1

i believe every error code i ever had checked had the po141 code in the mix, i think it pops up any time there i a misfire, or a lean or rich mixture. To replace, first unplug the sensor (follow the wire and you will find a plug) next go to autozone and they will loan you a tool to remove the O2 sensor, its very hard with an open wrench. I believe the bank one is on the passanger side, but the number 2 sensor is after the catalytic converter.

sgv93

i have a 1988 that i am getting ready to redo, and i am curious if the rear doors (cargo area large and small ) doors from a 1986 trooper will fit my 1988, my 88 has absolutely no rust or dents anywhere except the rear where a lady rearended me and hit the spare tire and caved in the back door and cause some creasing on the large door and on the smaller door which being in florida has caused them to rust on the very bottom and would rather not use bondo nor cut and weld. any info would be greatly appreciated.

atfdmike

Welcome to the forum!

Try going to www.myisuzuparts.com and checking the years you have part no.s against each other. I do believe that they are interchangeable...the only major difference in body styles was the difference between 2 door and 4 door, and even then I don't think the rear changed.

bobparker

Hey folks, new to the forums and am completely stumped and need some help. Sorry if my specific problem has been addressed before, I didn't find it.

I got out of work a few days ago and my trooper wouldn't start.

Here's a list:
- no change in electrical systems when turning the key. This includes the normal warning light check, the radio lighting up or any other dashboard illumination. It's all off and dark
- battery was taken to an auto parts store, and is good.
- engine does not crank or try to crank (at least that I can hear)
- also pretty sure that headlights do not work
- all fuses/relays that I could find look okay

I thought that maybe the ignition switch was bad, so I disconnected it and put a volt meter on the harness and I got voltage to the ignition switch. (not sure if it was enough/right amount) Figured switch was bad, so I got a new one from the dealership. The only one that they could get their hands on inside a week had a crack in the casing, but I tried it anyway. No luck.

Here's what I'm guessing so far (one or more of the following):
- new ignition switch is bad, needs to be replaced
- faulty grounding somewhere (where are all the grounding locations, anyway?) makes circuit incomplete
- starter harness?? some of the stuff I've read says this may contribute
- some relay/fuse/fusable linkage somewhere has fried and I'm not aware of it
-? something I haven't thought of

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, I feel a bit dead in the water and really don't want to have to tow this to a mechanic

atfdmike

Hi and welcome,

As you are learning, electrical problems seem to top the list on any forum but maybe even more on the Isuzu's! I don't have your model truck, but..........
Very often the alternator is the culprit....when it goes bad it wreaks havoc on the rest of the system. Try just unhooking it and see if you get any different result.
Cleaning the grounds is also another must do, and IIRC there is a fuse or link in the circuit in the eng. compt. Also, there may be a voltage regulator on the firewall, it depends on the model I believe, Under hood, center, rear engine area, mounted on upper firewall.
I hope this helps. Good luck.

jhill04

I have a '94 Trooper, original owner, 140+K miles. I've had 4+ starters and alternators, automatic trans, but all in all a pretty good car. But like a fool, I love it. I' ve had several local mechanics work on it, but have never really been satisfied. In all cases they made good on the work (the valve cover gasket job took two tries and a week and $600 to do right) Any way the brakes were done at the 60K service around 2000. So at 140K I'm thinking maybe time to check. Pulled the wheels and Holy cow, over half the pads left. But since I had the whells off I did the pads anyway.When I got to the left rear, the last one, the inboard pad was GONE and the rotor slightly scored. In taking off the caliper, the bottom bolt snapped,leaving about an inch and a half of the nonthreaded post in the outboard part of the pad frame. Now this 60K brake job was done at the dealer, remember? So calling around looking for the part Ifind out the two caliper mount bolts are different diameters! Well I guess dumb luck and a 50/50 chance let me get it right on all the other wheels. Not having the ability to replace the pad frame and bolts at the time I put it back together the way it was, figuring it worked for 80K miles, I'll do it next weekend. Well, then I get a high pitched squeak from that wheel at a crawl. So, I go to take that bolt out and it snaps again! Now I have the bolt head,an inch of thread and an inch of post in my hand and the rest of it in the frame. Meanwhile I'm driving the car, it stops fine and I'll get around to it soon. But what still gets me is that the problem started with the "dealer brake job" and that except for that right rear wheel,after stopping a 4400 pound car for 80K miles it didn't need a brake job ??? What kind of pads were those.

atfdmike

Isuzus in general and Troopers in particular seem to be a mystery to most mechanics that do not have a history in them. I have not heard of your type of problem as a regular thing, so you may be the exception to the rule.
I am not a pro, but I do know from my own experience that the factory brake pads from Isuzu seem to give the best service life, and they also don't squeal or stick as I have also seen. When I bought my Trooper used, it had aftermarket pads. They had worn unevenly due to no reason I could find. I cleaned and lubed the caliper pins and knock on wood have had good results. For some reason,the design of the caliper has two different style pins, but I have never seen that before or since. They are some kind of dust seal (so I am told). The calipers are prone to getting sticky if you see much salt air or snow/mud/salty road conditions, so cleaning them up and/or replacing them seems to be common.
Hope this helps. Good luck.

[Deleted User]

I have an after-market Pioneer DEH-P4800MP stereo deck, (2) after-market JVC front 6.5" speakers, and had (2) after-market Pioneer rear 5.25" speakers installed in my Trooper last night. Upon completion, things sounded great! Well... I got down the road a few feet and adjusted one bass setting and all the music stopped. My CD player was still working, however there was absolutely nothing coming from my speakers. My assumption is that I have blown a fuse. Can anyone help me locate the fuse so that I can check it? Thanks.

[Deleted User]

Can't figure-out how to delete an entry ha but my speakers are now properly working, so nevermind :shades:

digger1213

Hi,
I have a 1994 trooperW/ac 4 dr It just started acting up by all the lights on the dash flashing and it does a clicking noise in the fuse box, the voltage goes up to 18 and just the other day it did it, then stalled out and it started right up agian and did it all again.When the defroster is put on it doesn't blow either Any help would be GREAT

surfnfool01

i have a 94 trooper and am having hard core electrical problems with it. I have a new battery and alternator. Still having lights on dash come on and dies sometimes. It is a 5 speed manual. Any ideas??

jake1216

I have a 2002 Trooper and I can't remove the spark plug boot. Help please. I don't want to break it by force.

jake1216

Why does my '02 Trooper "drink up" so much oil? I never see any oil leakage on the engine. How can I correct it. What type of oil do you suggest?