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Kia Sedona Brakes

ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
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  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Maybe it's the luck of the draw. Our 2002 EX has 62,000 miles and still on the original brakes with no problems in the 4 years we've had the van - no funny noises, no shaking, no warping, etc. We do a pretty even mix of city / highway driving.
  • Yeah, i think its the luck of the draw. I only bought my sedona after my ex and his wife both bought 2004 Sedonas and have had no problems with either one!!!!!
  • monty2222monty2222 Posts: 48
    In again for brake noise. I think they replaced the rotors twice now. For a while it began pulsing, I gave it a while to wear in, but now I get a clunk sound once per wheel revolution as I brake. After making that appointment, I was on the highway and started gettting the old hum from the back end, like if running with knobby tires. When I pulled off and looked, there is oil/grease coming out of the wheel hub and splattered out across the wheel cover. Looks like bearings again. I did try Kia roadside assistance, but they would tow the car only, no transportation for us (dealer closed). So I just drove it home. Oh, also when wet the belts chirp quite a bit during warmup. Rather annoying. I am not buying Kia again. :mad:
  • I have an 05 Kia Sedona. It has been into the dealership five times now for brake problems. They have replaced the rotors and pads. It is still making the grinding/groaning noise when I slow to a stop. Not all the time but too much. We have filed a report through the BBB Autoline. Kia sent a factory rep up to test drive our van. He did not hear the noise. I was also told that the noise is normal! I have had many new vehicles and none with this problem! What can I do? Should I have it inspected by someone other than Kia. I want Kia to buy it back. It is a lemon!! :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • monty2222monty2222 Posts: 48
    2004 Kia Sedona with 23K miles. Often when I apply brakes lightly at low speed (almost stopped) I get a clunking noise about once per wheel revolution. Sounds like its coming from the back. Mostly on damp or humid days. I have had it in twice and they say the brakes look fine. The first time it was also in for a bad wheel bearing and so they replaced it and assumed it was the noise, but not. The second time I DEMONSTRATED it to the mechanic, but they said brakes looked OK and boss said to replace the rear shocks! Anybody else have/solve this issue? Sometimes there is also a groan just as I stop, I am sure it is pads sticking and letting go. Maybe I should just go to Midas. :mad:
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    Monty2222- monty - please check quickly to see if your rear wheel bearings are about to fail.

    I have seen where a number of people that have the Alloy Wheels have reported that the pretty metal cover over the lug nuts traps water inside the hub cap until it seeps into the wheel bearing space and rusts out the rear wheel bearings resulting in catastrophic failure. Of course before they failed they may have made a ticking sound like you describe. My car has the steel road wheels and so is not effected. Mine has 78K on it and is working great.

    I wonder if you have a bad spot now on the Metal Axle shaft itself?

    If you know how to remove the wheel and the hub you can investigate yourself on saturday.
  • monty2222monty2222 Posts: 48
    No, as I posted, they just replaced the rear bearings. The sound they make when bad is a hum like driving with knobby tires. There is also a recall on that. The clunking/ticking noise only happens when the brakes are lightly applied at low speed. I think the pads are sticking.
  • I have a 2004 Kia Sedona with 34k miles. I am have to turn or replace rotors every 10k miles because of serious vibration when braking. The first two times the dealer turned the rotors and told me they could turn then 7-8 times. They never attempted to find what was causing the issue. The third time they told me I need a complete brake job at the cost of $330. We live in a totally flat area and my wife does not ride the brake, I have paid close attention to this. I have talked to several people at Kia corporate and they are useless. All they can say it is normal for some vehicles to do this. I am replacing the rotors and brakes with non-Kia parts in hope this resolves my issues. This is my last Kia. They advertise such a great warrenty but you might as well not even have one. Has anyone else had this issue?
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    My van has 79K on it and I am on the original set of Rotors.

    Never turn rotors on front wheel drive cars.

    It is a total waste of money.

    Buy new ones.

    I put new pads on the original rotors at 35K miles.

    My rotors are still good. I checked them last week.

    I would say you got bad rotors and they made them worse. Also if you have a caliper that is set in or out it will cause problems on the rotors.

    Most mechanics will run a flat file on the Caliper slides to clear out rust and give you a good slide back and forth.

    I think you have a poor mechanic at the dealer. Also these Kia guys normally just replace everything. My wife's car had a small brake problem at 30K miles and they replaced everything.

    The only time Rotors warp is a bad rotor ( it happens ) a bad grip on the rotor ( from the Caliper ) or bad driving ( the driver speeds up and slows down real fast ( my wife borrowed my car for a trip. When she came up the street she drove it like she's dives her Spectra, when she stop next to me I could FEEL the heat coming off those brakes. The kind of use will warp a rotor.)

    We know that once you WARP a piece of metal it will always try to go back to that warped shape.

    Your plan is sound- buy NEW third party rotors and get some life out of them for a change. When you remove the calipers use a flat file to remove the rust from the slides, and then using a tissue with a small dab of never seize on it , work that into the porosity of the metal when the rust was.

    That helps the caliper to move better inboard and outboard , during braking.
  • I have a 2005 sedona, the brakes failed/ needed replaced at 5600, then new pads at 13000, 21000, 30000, and now at 42000. I asked Kia why they were wearing down so fast. He said that either I ride my brake or that Tires Plus doesn't know how to do brakes. I then told him that my drivers side front pads wear down 2-3x faster then my passanger side and he told my that sometimes they wear a little faster on one side then the other. I know I am past the 36000 mi lemon law but if I could get any help I would appriciate it. Thanks
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    your calipers are not setup correctly and need attention. they are need sitting above the rotor when the pistons press on the pads they must be either inboard or outboard.

    The pads brakes should last about 30,000 miles of moderate highway driving.

    City Driving- reduce that to 10,000 since City people are different from country people.

    plus your car weighs 4700 pounds.

    If you want to reduce the brake interval do your own front brakes and put on pads and rotors at the same time and you will have better luck.

    you can also upgrade to the ceramic pads and the drilled brake rotors, i saw them for this car on sale.

    If you have paid $ 80 for 5 brake jobs you already paid for the difference in price.
  • In reading all the posts about Brake problems, I'm wondering if any of the problems are occuring with ABS Brakes. Our 04 EX has the ABS option, and we have had no brake problems in 25k miles. Possibly different rotor mfg or specs?

    On another subj -- Has anyone found a replacement for KIA Auto Trans fluid?

  • The caliper problem, would this not be something kia should take care of?

    I am currently looking for new rotors NOT from kia. My thinking is that the rotors they are using are causing most of my/our problems with the brakes.

    I am going to call R1 Concepts and find out if they have rotors for the Sedona. I think they sell pads too. I wonder if we can get SUV pads so that they don't wear as quick.
  • My 2005 Sedona, which has been in the shop 16 times (including 2 times last week) for mostly the same reasons. Bad breaks (Kia Tech said was normal) never fixed, noise in the rear axle (Kia Tech said was normal) never fixed, excessive noisy A/C and smells VERY moldy (Kia Tech says is normal) never fixed, the over head computer system has been replaced 3 times and still doesn't work so I will be bringing it back in for the 4th new one next week.
    Anyway, when I was in last week about the breaks, the service advisor heard the noise (which was there since 700 miles and complained about monthly) and said he would change the rotors and pads and everything should be corrected. THEN, he advised I would have to pay $129.99 for the break inspection and then between $500.00 and $600.00 for the correct repairs !!!!!! I asked why I had to pay and he said because the breaks are now OUT OF WARRANTY. I advised him that Kia has checked them at least 6 times in the last year and they kept telling me that everything is normal. Now,with only 7,400 miles and 90 days out of warranty they will only repair for the bucks. Sounds like a damn good scam Kia has going for themselves. This can only add support to my Lemon Law case. I feel sorry for anyone who is having problems with Kia, they are rip offs.
  • joancjoanc Posts: 26
    How many miles do you have on your '05 Sedona? That sounds crazy that Kia won't pay for your repairs since you've been bringing it to their attention for months. My brakes on my'03 were faulty as well (lots of squealing & squeaking), however, my dealership replaced the entire rear brakes (pads, drums, etc) and I've had no problem since. I had absolutely no out of pocket expenses, because of the warranty. Don't let them screw you over! :mad:
  • Check out valvoline max life 75000. Valvoline says it's the same as kia spec. Jim Richardson
  • vannervanner Posts: 47
    Jim: Re: Transmission fluid...Valvoline says it's the same. But does Kia accept it as correct maintenance for this vehicle? Will your warranty hold up? IF Kia won't honor any warranty problems with the tranny will Valvoline?

    There are lots of synthetic engine oils out there that can go 15,000 miles between changes with filter. Yet Kia's warranty conditions specifically demand oil changes at 3000 miles for "severe use" vehicles, and if you read the terms, you'll find every V-6 is a "severe use" vehicle. They make no allowance for synthetics.

    I think the synthetics are better for the vehicle. I have no doubt you can go a long time between changes. I think there are probably better quality transmission fluids than Kia's. And Kia certainly does not refine their own transmission fluid - somebody makes it for them. But the point I'm making is that Kia is reknown for backing out of warranties any way they can, and using anything other than the specified fluid is a dandy way to let them out without even squirming. Be careful. (See my post #1178)

    Same thing with "non-Kia" parts for the brakes. We had the rotors warp at under 5000 miles on our 05 Sedona. No ABS. They just are NOT designed for the weight and stresses of this vehicle. They are the same parts as on the sedans and probably marginal for them. The dealer tried ours when we took it in and agreed they were bad. Rotors were turned (perfectly acceptable repair for me - I do it all the time on all my vehicles) and pads replaced. Been fine for the last 10K and I'm happy with the service.

    But if I ever have a problem with them again I will swap to after-market "performance" rotors and pads and do the work myself. Hang the warranty. I realize the warranty at least on the brakes will likely be voided. (see my post #1175)

    Might add that the brake problem and the much-reported fuel pressure sensor warning code are our only problems so far. (The fuel pressure warning is due to a faulty vent valve in the EGR and is well-known.) Dealer handled both okay in my mind. I can't fault our dealer.

    I also am getting to really like this van the more I live with it. It's my wife's car and I get it very seldom - driving long shifts on long trips. I think it's ALMOST as good as my very old Aerostar which was spectacular at its job. (Still have it at 174K and the 4L V-6 has never been opened!) I can drive it for ten hours and not be stressed out too much.

    Two months ago the Sedona got just a shade over 20mpg from mid-west to Florida and back, around 2000 miles total, with a heavy passenger and luggage load at an average 75 mph out on I-75 and I-65. (Combined weight would be well over 5000 lbs.) 500 miles of it in Florida in mixed highway/city driving at very high daily temps. I love how well this van's air conditioner handles bringing down the huge interior to comfortable levels in a very short time.

    For sure it swallows up a whole BIG pile of luggage and gear with ease. May be the most "space efficient" vehicle I've ever packed. And again - the stretch Aerostar is a tough act to follow.

    For the money - even for more money if it worked out that way - this is a heck of a good vehicle for us so far.
  • I have an 04 Van with 33000 and I have never had a problem. I do all my own maintenance and don't go to the dealer unless necessary. I did take it back for the three recalls, but I don't think I had one of the problems. My sister has an 03 van with about 60000 miles. She tells me she hasn't had any problems either. I feel bad for anybody on this listserve thats been having a lot of problems with their vehicle. As for the warranty, I've never had to use it so I don't know what Kia's response to the problem would be.
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    #1.) Generally, new cars today have thinner rotors than the 1976 Fords and Chevys we grew up with. Those old rotors were about $ 90 each back then. They were also very heavy and had the hub built into them. Todays rotors are smaller, lighter and they warp easier. If you get 35K miles on the new car rotors you are doing great. I had FAR MORE problems with my new Taurus than anyone here can imagine, with their Kias. I have 79K on my Sedona rotors and I replaced the pads once. Now I will replace the rotors and be glad to do so.

    2.) I have also got a Spectra and the Kia Dealer warranted the entire rear brakes for us at 30K miles, the wheel cylinders, shoes and drums and the cables ! My other dealer warranted the parking brake cables on my van. I have not had trouble getting warranty support from Kia on either of our 2002 cars.

    3.) I got a complete warranty/upgrade on my Vans electrical system at 50K miles , when they decided to improve the electrical output as the battery tended to drain. This again was free. In contrast on my new FORD TAURUS I bought 3 batteries and three alternators at my expense, and one tow job, due to a bad wiring design on the taurus. But they have a short warranty so you get hammered on that.

    Brake people : Definitely buy new rotors and pads and get on living. Buy a third party brand and try them out. Pepboys sells Raybestos or Wagner and they are good brands.

    Lemon Law people- push for a solution. Sadly your dealers are not helping you.

    On balance I have had better results with Kia than I did with either my Ford , My chrysler , or my General Motors Fleet of 6 Chevy Luminas I bought !!

    they all had major brake failure at 50K miles and GM made me pay full shot or $700 to do the brakes. AND they had a special part that only they offered and the Monro shop had to buy it from them at $ 140 per set.

    So go get some Rotors and pads for $ 150 total and enjoy better braking tomorrow !
  • Just an update on my 2005 Kia Sedona. Two weeks ago, I FINALLY convinced the dealership I had break problems !! The service advisor called after having my van for 8 hours and said my rotors are warped ---- boy, was I ever surprised !! I had been telling them for 13 months there was something wrong with them. Long story short, they said the breaks were out of warranty (hahaha) and wouldn't be covered. I told them I didn't care and that my lemon law lawyer advised me to let them try to fix it. When I picked it up the following day, they said they took care of the breaks under warranty (lucky me). The pads were never changed, the grinding/screeching noise is still there when breaks are applied and now, with car running and in park,taking the foot off the break pedal, can hear break shoe noises in the rear and can hear like a cable sliding through a shaft under the engine compartment. According to my lawyer, this could all end by mid Sept. Praying so hard this will happen. ---- :lemon: :lemon: :mad: :cry:
  • Well it is still happening. Both the dealer AND now Midas failed to figure out and fix the problem. When applying light pressure at low speed I get a sharp clunking noise about once per wheel revolution. I can also get it with the emergency brake by applying it about two clicks. It is from the rear wheels. Midas found brake dust clump and lubricated the backing plate. Noise came back in a couple days. The dealer said the brakes looked fine and replaced the rear shocks. Nobody can figure this out! 2004 Sedona with 23000 miles. :mad:
  • I have to buy new rotors for my van.

    Took it to Tire Plus and they called a local Kia dealer and talked to the parts department. They told him that the sedona is too heavy for these pads/rotors, and it is a known problem but one they are unwilling to address to the public.
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    Well, I just hit 85K miles so I installed a new set of Rotors and I replaced the pads. I got 35K miles on my first set of pads and now the rotors, they lasted 85K.

    My old parts were still in good shape , but old.
    My rotors looked great, but they were getting thin and now with new pads and rotors I have a solid pedal. I also tightened up the rear shoes a little bit.

    I am very happy with my brake wear. I do not have ABS.

    My van is a 2002 and perhaps I was just lucky or they had a good rotor back then. Now the new 2007 has 4 wheel disc brake. I think I like my 2002 better. I took off the rear brake drum and it looks like NEW so I am not going to replace those. My shoes pere 50 % worn down. I think I will do the shoes so I can ignore them another 80K miles.

    NOTE to ALL- The front pads have a pair of stainless steel caliber slides one on top edge and one on bottom. If you do nothave these installed on the replacement pads there could be problems with ticking sounds and noises. they a clearly visibile on the bottom and top of the pads.

  • i have an 04 sedona with 23K and i took that darn thing to the shop i dont know how many times for the same thing and they said all is fine they just need to ajusted and still the same. i took it back for the same thing again about 3mos ago and they tell me my rotars are worped and that is a comon problem with the sedonas and they are comming from the factory like that, so they fixed them and now they started to sound like that again and the brakes are bad but not due to the worped rotars and they will ot fix them without me paying $299.00 for new front brakes. so my advice to you is to have the rotars checked. also they have an active recall that i was nver told about on the gas pedal that it will stick and you cant stop the car or slow down.
  • I just bought new rotors that are drilled and brake shoes for my '05 Sedona. I will let you know how it goes. So far they seem to be doing pretty good. Only 200 miles on them right now.
  • :lemon: I have an 05 Sedona and are having similar brake problems. Had front and rear brakes, drums and rotors replaced by the dealer at 9000 miles and the front were replaced again at 21000 miles. During the 21000 miles replacement they also "adjusted" the rear brakes and that has not under warranty. I returned the vehicle a few days later because the check engine light was going on and I mentioned the brakes were shaking again. Only 400 miles later and they showed me the burned rotors and said they cannot do a warranty repair. They are blaming in on living in the smoky mountains and using the brakes.

    The previous service manager also talked about the 05 Sedona having many brake problems. Said they were redesigned for the 06 model. Gave us instructions on how to drive and use brakes. Also told us that they are having the same problems in cities with stop and go traffic.

    I personally know 2 other people with the exact same make and model and they are BOTH going through the lemon / buyback deals from KIA.

    Why won't KIA just fess upa nd admit they screwed up and fix these things the right way. Do
    they not want to tarnish the new 06 reputation?

    This thing is a lemon :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:

    PLEASE write back if you are having similar problems... I want to compose a list of people for the attorney.....

    The 05 Sedona brakes are not strong enough for the vehicle weight.
  • mombeemombee Posts: 10
    We have a 2004 Kia Sedona. When coming to a stop, the brakes bind up and squawk. I have had it in 5 times... I have been told I needed all new belts ( at 23K miles), that I needed a new battery, that I needed new front brakes ( took it elsewhere and was told I needed new rear brakes which we did). The ABS light comes on continually, sometimes staying on for days at a time. My owner's book says when that happens to get car in pronto. Funny thing.. dealer can NEVER hear the noise and says I can't describe it well enough and that there are no codes showing.Seems like they just want to sell me something.. heck with the brakes. It is terrifying when this happens.. at least 3-4 times per day. The dealer can't get it to happen there but when I'm driving out of the dealership it does it again. Duh.Any suggestions? I'm ready to write the owner of the dealership. Thanks, Mombee
  • smulveysmulvey Posts: 139
    You sound frightened.
    Don't be.
    If your car stops when you put on the brake
    don't have brakes.

    As far as the squawking etc.

    Go ahead and prove to your self if you have brakes.
    Find a safe level spot where you can use the car jack to remove one of the front wheels.

    Take off the wheel and look at the front brake rotor

    The front brakes do 80 % of your braking work.

    If the rotor is shiney and smooth with no obvious ridges and grooves you have brakes.

    There is a clamping device called a CALIPER riding over the
    front portion of the brake rotor.

    If that has some dark gray materials that are rubbing
    on the shiney surface, those are your BRAKE PADS.

    You can look at these parts in online car parts
    websites , even see the ones that fit your car. , pepboys etc all have sites with photos
    of pads and calipers.

    If your pads are working the car slows down and the pads
    heat up and the rotor heats up as the motion gets turned to friction.

    There is a normal about of noise from pads and it varies with the PAD , the ROTOR and the way you apply the brake.

    I can create nasty noise by slowing down normally and then gently releasing the brakes just enough to get the squawk going. The kids hate it. But the brakes are fine.

    The harder the pad material the better is squawks and the longer it lasts. So brakes that can squawk are often better to high speed ( interstate ) and mountain driving.

    Volvos can do this really well.

    If you are a city dweller and do not need the longer brake life you can generally assume that the $ 15 pads are softer than the $45 pads and buy the cheap pads and install those.

    The hardest pads are the ceramics. I have not tried those yet.

    I have been using the $ 30 pads and I get about 40,000 miles on those.

    Personal driving style effects the life as well as where you live, mountains versus flat lands.

    I live in the flat lands.

    If you can learn how to put your own pads in or find an independent garage that will just change out pads you can start figuring out what pads you prefer. They are easy to install and most car buffs will try more than one brand to find one they like.

    No one says you have to run them till they are metal to metal before you replace them. I found on my Sedona I can swap pads and not have to turn the rotors at all.

    I just put on new rotors at 80,000 miles for the first time. My old rotors were still good but I felt it was time.

    I got my parts at ADVANCED AUTO and they had a good price and a good quality part.

    When you change the rotors or the rear drums there are some small phillips head screws that need to come out. I suggest buying some new ones before you start , at the KIA DEALER , they are less than a $ 1 each and they make the job easier. If the old one is rusty you can damage it when you take it out and then still have a brand new one to replace it.

    Good luck.

    Learn more about brakes so you can drive with less fear.
  • We have a 2002 Sedona and have had brake and rotor problems since the beginning. We have paid for all repairs/replacements out of pocket, not really expecting it to be covered by warranty.

    I have spent hours on here trying to figure out how to adjust the rear brakes. Can someone please help me?! Thanks in advance!
  • joancjoanc Posts: 26
    Hello.. many miles do you have on your sedona??? Please check with your dealership if you're still under warranty because you should NOT repeat NOT be paying for these brake repairs out of pocket! We have an'03 EX that has been fantastic, except for the brakes when we first bought the van. They squeaked repeatedly, and got louder. The dealership installed all new brakes---rotors, pads,etc. at no cost to us. It totally fixed the problem. What I've advised people to do is to google 'sedona brake problems' and print out some of the posts you find and take it to the dealership with you! Couldn't hurt! Good luck!
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