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Also, can anyone comment on gas mileage with a Supercharged version?
I'm also having(in the past two days) a problem with the engine missing(BAD). Has anyone had problems with ignition coils and what not? I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor button and it still missed. Then it decided to run fine after I had blown the dust out of the distributor. But it's missed a couple of time after that, but nowhere near as bad as it did the first time. Any help would be appreciated.
1. Disconnect the negative terminal of your car's battery BEFORE you do anything else. Take the ashtray out, by opening it, pushing the metal clip that says "Open" on it and pushing the whole ashtray down. It should pop out easily.
2. Inside the cavity where the ashtray was, there are 2 small screws: remove those.
3. The center column plastic molding should be removed next. This part doesn't require any screw removal - just grab the bottom of the plastic housing the radio and cigarette lighter and pull out. There are two clips at the top that require a little extra force to pull out. It should come out easily by hand after the 2 screws in step 2 are removed.
4. On the back of the center column housing you just removed, unplug the cigarette lighter harness that supplies power to the lighter.
5. Look at the sides of your radio: there are 4 screws on brackets on the sides of the radio, 2 on each side. These are the screws that hold your radio in and also provide the electrical ground. Remove these screws.
6. The radio unit should pull out easily after the 4 screws are removed. Remove the wire harnesses on the back of the radio, usually by pushing in a little clip on the harness body with a flat head screwdriver. This part is annoyingly difficult. If you get frustrated DO NOT cut any wires or you will void your car's ENTIRE warranty.
7. Your new radio should come with installation instructions; if you use the same brackets that attached the original radio to your Xterra to install the new radio, the radio will be electrically grounded (at least on the model I have, YMMV).
I found this website to be very helpful: http://installdr.com/ has lots of .pdf files for radio installation on newer-model Nissans.
Good luck!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks,
Corey
I have a 2002 Frontier V6 automatic with 74000 miles and had intermittent AC problems after replacing the AC compressor and bad high pressure hose. The AC would work fine for short periods of time then nothing. Living in Florida, I needed to find a fix for my AC problem. The solution was hard to find. But I had to replace the thermal control amplifier (http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=27675-92000) which is located in the wiring harness behind the glove box. Part costs about $30 and it took about 15 minutes to install it. Now my AC works great.
There are 3 screws on the back side of it that are incredibly hard to get to. Even after you get to them the box still won't open all the way, but it'll open enough for you to pull out the therm and install the new part.
Tips:
1. Use a long screwdriver to get to the screws (the 3 screws are literally an inch from the floor board)
2. Have a magnetic screw driver. I couldn't put one of the screws back in because of such tight space.
3. If there is no hope of taking or (or putting back) the screws on the backside, as a female or a child to do it for you. They will most likely have smaller hands and can get to it easier (My girlfriend had to take one out for me)
4. After the part is replaced, give the car a shot of 134. I live in Jacksonville Florida, and after replacing the part and giving it some 134, my AC is almost too cold (No complaints)...
Just taking out the Glove compartment wouldn’t do it. The sensor is stuck in the fins of the evaporator (the thermal sensor has two parts the sensor and the plug. Plug is on the lower left corner behind the glove box. This is visible once you remove the glove box.). The evaporator is inside a black casing that houses the cooling system. Had a hard time getting this open. Once this is open you are almost done.
I to have the intermittent AC problem where the compressor clutch may or may not engage. I found that the infamous Thermo Control Amplifier failure mode can be tested by shorting the two blue wires on the female connector on the outside of the evaporator box. Disconnect the connector from the wires that run into the box, with the red, white and black wires. If your clutch is not engaged, short the wires and see if the clutch engages. Good chance this indicates that it is indeed the thermo control amplifier that is defective. At least this might keep some from replacing this very difficult to replace part if it is not indeed the issue. Would be interested on input on this from others.
any ideas ?
Thanks.
a simple fix otherwise i would have followed all your ideas.
I hope this helps out other xterra owners.
cheers !
i read in another forum that a gentleman had the same exact issue he ran the code and it came back shift solenoid A and knock sensor.. The guy said he had this replaced and after 20 miles he had the same issue. so maybe that helps someone help me with my problem...I appreciate any help.
my 35+ years of experience driving manual trans.
my 10+ years of experience driving xterras without a single clutch failure during warranty period.
mostly highway driving.
zero miles hauling (i dont have a hitch attached)
i will not be buying a nissan -- trading in this vehicle for a new tacoma or ford