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Nissan Versa Maintenance Schedule and Questions
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What is warranty for the car?
The website states 6 airbags standard... but it has an option to add ABS AND airbags. don't get that....
when exactly can we get it? Interested in the hatchback..
What is the cargo volume?
for our second car we wanted something cheaper, but not bad. since we already have one car that actually can carry something bulky, alternatives would be a mazda 3i touring 4-door... which is nicely made (again, Mazda is really cool made :-)
I looked into Scion A, honda fit and thought of a Kia rio (but I'm dropping that thought :-)
I never considered Nissan (by looking at the cars they offer here ... barth....), and they somehow have older cars. Accidently I heard about the Versa...
So, how reliable is a Nissan? How expensive is maintenance (to compare, Mazda has a timing chain and 7,500 mile oil changes... almost no maintenance required). Also 4 years warranty (so far I don't ecpect to ever use it, though..)
so, what is the deal with the Nissan vErsa? How is the Mexican built quality (I heard it will be built in Mexico.... again, Mazdas come from Japan... sorry about the comments, but our current car is our benchmark... we are willing to compromise with the secondary car, but not too much)
what is Nissan Warranty for the Versa? when is it supposed to be available (I read the 5-door, which I consider, comes beginning of summer, the 4-door end of summer..
My first car out of college was a '92 Mazda Protege LX which was a great little car...so I've definitely got a place in my heart for Mazda. In fact, I also look at the Mazda 3 5-dr as sort of my "standard bearer" in this search. I'll also be looking at the 5-dr GTI (on the high end of my budget), the standard Golf V, Dodge Caliber and Honda Fit in addition to the Versa & 3.
I've been following the emergence of the "B" segment since I started to hear news of it last year...that's how I picked up on the Versa. If you're not familiar with Nissan, they've had a great performance and solid reliability heritage in N.A. However (like Mazda) they sort of lost their way in the mid to late-90's. They found their way with respect to performance/styling in recent years, but quality has been a concern as recently as the past 5 years. Back when I bought my Protege, I strongly considered the original Sentra SE-R, which at that time was a fantastic little pocket rocket. I was just convinced I needed 4 doors. From the Australian reviews I've read of the Tiida so far, I think you can expect the Versa to be a solid performer, but not with the sharp edge you're used to in a Mazda 3 Touring/Grand Touring.
I see the maintenance/warranty and proven record of the '3' as being major positives, along with the dynamics and pride-in-ownership which it seems to have in spades. In the Versa, I see what looks like a funky European hatchback, at least in the higher trim levels. It seems to have a stance like a VW Golf where the other B-segment cars look a little cartoonish to me. Also the potential of ~40 MPG in a hatchback with a ton of space/features for around $15-16,000 loaded sounds tough to beat for a commuter. I hear mixed stories about the 3's real world fuel economy...I'm convinced I'd get on the high end of the estimates, but even then the Versa (on paper) looks to be nearly 10 mpg more efficient than the 2.3L in the Mazda3. I'd be interested to get your impressions on how the 3 is working out for you in that regard.
I'm also a U.W. grad and grew up about 50 miles north of Madison. As much as I love Minneapolis, I could see moving back to Madison one of these days. Once a cheesehead, always a cheesehead! Cheers!
Probably runs coilpacks under the vanity cover, but that's just a guess.
Thanks
Ben
Tony :shades:
P.S the engine in the Versa is a ALL NEW engine.
Ben
Tony :shades:
I asked, what if it craps out again? The dealer said call us and we will tow it back . It will be impounded by fed. law.You can't drive it . Just think, I traded my Honda CRV in ,with cash back and already questioning Versa quality.Stupid me!
It only takes 3 quarts, and 10 min time to do it. When its done, he knows what's in there and, that the filter really was changed.
Write it down in the service book with the miles, date, and anything else for reference and I would say have fun getting to know what's under the hood. BTW, the filter is not easy to see, and is better to take off from under the car. I added a magnetic drain plug on the first change.
As for the other, it is definitely annoying! My subaru you could leave the lights on all the time, my Sidekick (well, okay, skip that)... but my Vitara would automatically turn on the headlights (it had a light sensor) and now I've got the dash shining at me all the time (and I have mixed feelings about it being orange...) but I've gotten used to noticing whether or not my dials below the radio are on... I've also dimmed the dash lights when the headlights are up so that I can tell the difference if i'm not looking at my console.
On the other side, I thank whoever is responsible that I don't have DRL! It's an "idiot-proof" feature that I despise... Although I can see the need for it... But people should at least be responsible for knowing WHEN to turn on their own lights... like when it's raining, or grey out, or...
--cheers! :P
bought 1998 200sx new, still have it, 149,000 have never done anthing to it but replace the front brakes. rear are still original :P
bought 2007 altima, no issues of course
With the experiences I've had, I'll keep buying nissan as long as they exist. If being on the verge of bankruptcy didn't effect the quality of my 98 200sx, nothing scares me. :shades:
I like Fram filters because their textured Sure Grip end makes it easier to install in tight places, like on the Versa.
These filters are small so you are probably going to have to purchase a new 65/67 mm cap filter wench. Walmart sells a hard plastic one for ~$2.50 that fits perfectly with a 3/8" socket wrench.
The filter is not that hard to change. It took me about 40 mintes to change the oil and filter. If you look straight down from the oil dipstick you can see it from the top. It's easier to remove it from the bottom.
Make sure the car is in park with the handbrake on fully and jack the car up on the front passenger side high enough to get a jack stand under it. Put a chock under the left front wheel. Never crawl under a car with just the jack holding it up.
There is a black plastic shroud on the bottom that partially blocks the filter. Place a rag on top of the plastic shroud just under the filter to catch dripping oil from the filter. Reach around the edge of the shroud and attach the cap wrench and socket wrench to the filter. There is enough room to easily loosen the filter. Remove the filter from the bottom past the shroud. Try to keep the filter hole up so oil does not drip on you. Put a thin film of oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter. If your hand is long enough you can install it from the bottom, but I found it easier to place the new filter on the top edge of the shroud and reach down from the top and grab it and install it. I wore a latex glove for a surer grip on the filter. The Sure Grip end of the Fram filter and the latex glove makes it easier to get enough torque to install it hand tight plus.
Jack up the passenger's side just a bit, no need to elevate it much as only your arm needs to go under the engine.
Loosen the oil drain plug with a 14mm box-end wrench and drain into your container
While the oil is draining, remove the four 10mm splash guard bolts BUT NOT THE SPLASH GUARD.
Pull the splash guard down (it's very flexible) and grab the oil filter with your nitrile-gloved hand (these thin latex gloves give you all the grip you need) and loosen the oil filter about a quarter turn.
Replace the oil drain plug and snug it tight.
Place a triple layer of good paper towling (Bounty, etc) on top of the splash guard beneath the oil filter and reposition your oil catch container.
Back out the oil filter until it starts to leak, catching as much oil on the absorbent towling as possible and letting the rest go into the container.
Remove the old filter and replace with a new one (I used a Fram 6607) -- don't forget to oil the gasket.
Wipe up any oil drips from the splash guard and replace the four 10mm bolts.
Add 4 qts 5w30 and check for leaks.
i drive mostly short trips in new york state. This sounds a little often to me.
I only drive 5000 miles a year so i get my oil changed according to time not miles.
I can see this in the winter, but in the warmer months this seems to often.
what are you thoughts?
My only idea would be to take the car to a do it your self car wash and use the high pressure hand held wand to spray the underside of the car. But, the pressure is very high and i am affraid water would be forced into spaces it should not go in to.
would an ordinary car wash would do.
This is pretty annoying and I know we don't slam the doors. They had it fixed, but I am already wondering why I bought this car. This is the second problem I had with this car within 4 months. Has anyone else experienced any problems with the doors?
I drive 1k miles per month. I used Mobil one synthetic oil in my old car and changed it every 6 months.
I just bought a Versa 3 days ago. Will use Mobil one in it and go up to 7500 miles or 6 months.
But for 5000 miles a year synthetic oil would be a waist of money.
Thanks,
tyou08
tyou08
I noticed there are some really tiny and fragile-looking wires on this engine. I'm afraid to touch anything. Might break it. I was trying to get the cap wrench on from above, and my arm was rubbing against those 2 tiny wires going to the alternator. My V8 Chevy was so much nicer to work on, too bad it was a gas hog.
Its better you choose some best nissan parts dealer and replace you old one with new original parts!
good luck and keep us posted.
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Some have been criticising the Continental tires; I find them as good as many others.
Bear in mind this is not an all terrain vehicle using common sense will usually not get you in trouble. The accelerator and steering also has lots to do with its delicate response to keep wheel spin to a minimum
Is there is good/safe lift point for a floorjack at the front end? If yes - where? Or, am I relegated to lifting from the side with a scissor-type jack?
The dealer recommended oil filter # 15208-65FOC. I've since discovered Nissan's oil filter list resembles alphabet soup - many varieties. Also, read many comments relative to the 'inferiorness' of Nissan's oil filters?? What's the current wisdom as to the best oil filter? OEM {what part number?} or Fram {what part number?}
One more question: I've always been one to disable the ignition system, to enable cranking the engine for 10-15 seconds before starting the engine. I never did like that second or two sound coming from the engine before oil pressure built up. If this can be easily done, would someone please describe the location and appearance of the disconnect point? Or, is this not an easy thing? If so, I will forego the ignition disablement.
Thanks ~ james
See my post above about the protective plastic to be removed to get to the filter. I bought a Nissan oil filter from the dealer, with the Nissan logo on it. It acted the same as my cheap Walmart filters, in other words, it worked fine, as far as I can tell. Made no difference in the occasional knocking I get with warm engine, in my 2009 1.8 Hatchback. I asked 2 dealers where the lift points were. They were pretty clueless. They said to just look for "a solid looking spot". The Nissan mechanics there said they put the lift feet right on the thin sheet metal under the doors !
I avoid the jack question by driving my V up on boards for the oil change.
TM
No matter how sophisticated jacks can be, best use support that wont collapse on you.
By passing ignition may not be a good idea on modern cars.
One can do more expensive damage on electronic components than will be done by a little air in the oil passages on start-up.