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Mazda CX-7 AC problems



  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Posts: 498
    Brown's Mazda in Fairfax. Excellent service. Incidentally, I had the car checked and they did say the climate controll assembly was the culprit and is a warranty repair under TSB 07-004/06. Link to TSB:

  • satz24satz24 Posts: 10
    Hi Vince

    glad to see the AC issues were rectified. I read thru the TSB and it seems to say that only cars built before Oct 06 were affected.

    Was your's built before then or after?


  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Posts: 498
    I've had my CX-7 since June 06, so it qualifies.

  • dallascx7dallascx7 Posts: 6
    I am glad to find these posts discussing the CX7 A/C

    I am worried about A/C issues especially in the back seats.
    We live in texas and my 20 month old son gets really hot if no direct air circulation hits his face and neck.

    Did anyone have a bad experience being too hot in the back seat??

    Appreciate all feedback.

  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    When I have my CX-7 loaded on a hot day in So. Cal., I run the A/C on recirc, fan speed 4 and direct the three center vents to the rear seat. So far, no complaints.

    Just forget trying to run the the A/C on fresh air mode because the turbo seems to heat the cowl to a point where the A/C can barely overcome it.
  • astegmanastegman Posts: 171
    I'll put in my two cents to add that I've had no complaints from my 10 year old son about the A/C reaching the rear. As mentioned, I'll point some of the vents back there and it does the trick. It's been in the 90's here in Connecticut for several days now and the car has been cool and comfortable. We had no problems last summer either, even on vacation, when the car sat in 90+ degree heat all day. It cooled off quickly, front and back.

    The vent on the driver's side is rather weak in my car but I suspect that's just my particular car. I'll mention it the next time I have the car at the dealer for an oil change.

    Still, Mazda should've provided vents in the back. I think it's chintzy that they didn't.
  • dallascx7dallascx7 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the help

    Yes you can say that again (Chintzy that they didn't put vents in the back). My friend has a dodge magnum and it is smaller then the CX7 and it has back A/C with controls too!!

    A local dealer is offering $5500 off any CX7 2007, and they have attractive lease packages for 24 & 36 month (179/m for sport & 239/m grand touring) you can't beat that... they are trying to get rid of their 2007's most probably. So I am going to test drive one tomorrow and maybe lease it...will add DVD screens in each head rest & probably add chrome wheels too...
  • ridrridr Posts: 6
    Glad to read that there is a solution for the weak A/C. Is there anyone who has been able to get warm(er) vent air issue solved? While you're not running the A/C the air from the air vents is considerably warmer than the outside air. Especially when you drive slow or come to a stop. I'll be going to my dealer soon for the A/C problem and mention it too but maybe there is a known solution or TSB.
  • Does anyone know of a fix for warm air being blown in when the a/c is OFF? My problem is the ambient air is warmer than the air outside so I'm forced to use the a/c whether I want to or not.
  • cbcatzcbcatz Posts: 3
    Hello, we bought our CX7 Nov/06 and really love almost everything about it but the AC/warm air vent issue, which we have had it in to Mazda dealer about 4 to 5 times and have complained directly to Mazda twice. The service manager at the dealership called after I talked to Mazda last time and asked us to bring it in one more time.
    We have the same Issue that everybody here has, the vent throws out air much warmer then the outside air, in fact even when its 55 degrees outside the vent air feels like the heater is on a low heat setting. The only way around this is to open your windows up or throw on the air conditioner. The issue I believe is this; the turbo motor warms up the motor and vent tubes so much that the air conditioner has a hard time being efficient (its not). It's especially bad after you drive the car, go in a store, and come back out and start driving again. The first few times in for service they told us there's no problem, but we persisted that there is. I read here about climate control module and our car was old enough to have that issue. They replaced it and still no better. Once, we got back in the car after it sat for about a half hour and we drove it to our next destination 11 minutes away and found that the warm air through the vents was warm the whole 11 minutes long only just starting to get a little less warm. The temp outside was cold enough that you had to keep the windows closed (maybe 55 -60). A $30,000 vehicle should not have a defect as big as this one is. Maybe if we all call Mazda USA and complain, something may get done.

    We will let the dealership look at it one more time but I don't have much faith as I believe this to a design flaw of Mazda’s and they don't want to admit it or recall it.

    Thanks, Carey C.
  • satz24satz24 Posts: 10
    hi cbcatz

    I have exactly the same problem as you. After parking the car swtiched off for a few minutes and then driving again, the vent air is horribly hot. This affects the AC performance as well. Takes ages to cool down.

    I too think it's the heat soaking in from the turbo. I think this is terrible as I've had turbo cars before, which had wonderful fresh air at near ambient temp and AC that was cold.

    I just can't work out any solution to this problem which is so bad I hate driving this car anytime it's warmer than 30C (85F)

    Today I measured the temps coming from the vents. The ambient air temp was a cool 20C, but the vent air was between 30 and 40C, which of course means you're heating the cabin rather than providing fresh cool air.
  • cbcatzcbcatz Posts: 3
    Well, I took it back in for the fifth or so time for that issue to the dealership after complaining again to Mazda USA and as just I thought, the service writer said that "Mazda says it’s the way it was designed and there’s nothing they can do about it". I went back to my dealer in Roseville CA. to see if they would take mine back and give me great deal on a new CX9 which doesn't appear to have the same issue and are much more expensive. But they aren't to interested in taking care of me on this issue to my satisfaction.
    He did say that if enough people complain to Mazda USA directly and if there are enough complaints they might do something about it.
    Not likely because the people at the dealership and the people at Mazda USA that I’ve talked to, make it sound like its really no big deal and what are you complaining about
    It’s only a $32,000 car anyway
  • Can anyone confirm that this occurs on the 08 models as well? Also, is anyone truly satisfied with this ride? I'm trying to decide between the cx-7 and cr-v, I like the cx a helluva lot more but the lack of reliability is kind of killing it for me... :(
  • Not sure if it's also in the 08 model. But as for the ride itself, it's incredible, acceleration, handling, etc... drives more like a car than a SUV.

    For the AC/warm air issue, it is more prevalent if the temperature outside is more 28C/82F and sunny. When it's that hot outside, it can take the AC 10-20min to even cool down with the car running.

    As for the warm air without AC on, nothing you can really do about that. Just roll down your windows.
  • pctechpctech Posts: 43
    I have an '07 and, aside from the warm-air problem, which is apparently an uncorrectible design error, I am absolutely satisfied with the car and would do it again without a second thought. Yes, they could have done a few things better (MP3 jack, more storage "cubby's", etc.), but there have been no other problems. I don't get where your "lack of reliability" statement comes from!
  • cbcatzcbcatz Posts: 3
    Dubsowner, I don't know for sure if its happening on the new ones or not. The ride is very good, a little stiff but thats part of the sport suspension on ours, but it takes turns well and feels very stable and safe when driving. It's really nice aside from that issue. The gas mileage is about 18 average city and highway.

    Good luck
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    I think that is the norm of Mazda. I had 03 MPV van, the air is warmer than outside when it is set in vent coolest setting without AC on. Plus, the air current is stronger in the 2 center vents than the 2 side vents.
  • I was wondering why I never experianced any of the AC issues I had heard about. I purchased mine at the end of December 2006 and my VIN number is higher than the VIN in the TSB so I guess that solves the mystery.
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    I have a Mazda 3 2005 and have the weak A/C along with the vent temp being hotter than the outside air. I think the only way of checking to see if there is a heat leak from the heater core (door not closing?) that is making its way into the cabin is to diconnect the hoses to the heater core. Make a loop by connecting the 2 hoses to each other so water returns to the engine. If you notice no abnormal heat from the vents, less than before, when the switch is on outside air this could answer our problems. My compressor cycles on for about 10 to 12 seconds and off for about the next 45 to 50 seconds. I had my A/C checked by the dealer and of course all is normal, vent temp 51F within specs. How can a vent temp of 51F cool a black interior with the outside temp in the high 80s and low 90s. The compressor does not stay on long enough to build up cold air to cool the interior. I was thinking of trading my 3 for a CX7 but with the weak A/C like what I have now it is a NO buy for me..looking elsewhere ... remember always try and test a vehicle in the summer on hot days as I believe weak A/Cs is a common problem on some other manufactures...probably because of short cycle times, all in the effort in saving gas so they can get their average fleet M/G within specs. compressor off less gas being used...
  • slippertslippert CincinnatiPosts: 13
    I have the '07 GT FWD model. When I hit my auto temperature control button my AC goes on, even when it's 5 degrees outside. Should i leave it on, trusting the AC is not really working or hit the AC switch turning it off? I'm not sure how this system works when i want heat.
  • vbbuiltvbbuilt Posts: 498
    Your environmental controls are designed that way. Little is gained by turning off the A/C. Your auto A/C is designed to maintain humidity in the cabin as well and it keeps the humidity down in the winter. In your previous cars, have you ever noticed your windows fogging up when it's raining? With the environmental controls, fogging is pretty much eliminated.

  • carlitos92carlitos92 Posts: 458
    Little is gained by turning off the A/C.

    Well, nothing but fuel efficiency...

    If it's 5F outside, you likely don't need the humidity reduced THAT much, and you stand to increase your mileage by not having the compressor load on the engine.

    That being said, you have to make a choice if that admittedly small fuel savings is worth twiddling with HVAC knobs the "old-fashioned" way in order to keep a temp you like. I just got back from a 1200-mile round trip and did it both ways, but couldn't compare mileage because going one way, the trailer I was towing was empty - going the other way, it was full.

  • witzendwitzend Posts: 1
    This is my first time ever posting so please be gentle. After years of blog lurking, I have decided to break my silence after what happened to our DEFECTIVE AC Compressor at 38,000 miles.

    We bought our 07 Mazda CX7 in July 06 to bring with us to Italy and use to travel Europe. We have loved our CX7 and have taken it everywhere. BUT, that all changed on Tuesday morning when upon exiting the highway we noticed a hot burning smell (like oil and rubber mixed with electrical). We pulled onto the base and put the car in park. This is when smoke billowed from under the hood (my children ran from the car as the smoke was so thick they thought it was on fire). After clearing it out, we experimented with the car driving with no heat fan, progressing to defrost high fan and low and behold more smoke! So we took it to the Autoport where they were surprised to see a new car with an defective AC Compressor! They temporarily fixed the problem by bypassing the unit, which helped with the smoke but it still rattles terribly at low speeds.

    Now, here comes the kicker. When we bought the car we asked the dealer if the warranty was valid in Italy. The manager said yes it was, I asked him that before I sign anything he call Mazda directly and verify that the warranty would remain valid. He did this - right in front of us (or did he??). Now Mazda USA says that the warranty is void because we took it out of the US/Canada. Not that it matters too much because we are at 38000 miles.

    The point in posting this is that we noticed about 5 months ago that the ac was getting dimmer and that the air wasn't pushing through as strong. Since it was fall, we thought we would figure it out in time. Reading all of your posts that you have notified MazdaUSA, makes me wonder why when I called them today they stated that they hadn't heard of any AC problems and that I will be stuck with the likely $1,000 (if I am lucky!) bill. If the unit is recalled later I can submit a "request" to be reimbursed if we meet all the requirements.

    Other than this recent episode though, I wouldn't trade my CX7 experience for anything. I am just hoping this will be resolved satisfactorily.

    Thanks for listening to my rant.
  • zoom49zoom49 Posts: 76
    Most modern car A/C compressors (non GM) are good for at least 100,000 miles.
    However if it is run for any period of time with a low refrigerant charge the life will be greatly shortened. When we use our systems in defrost mode, or auto climate it is more difficult to realize that the cooling is below normal. Weak A/C output can be a sign that the refrigerant charge is low. This will cause the compressor to short (rapid) cycle on the low pressure switch and burn up the compressor in a few weeks. :cry:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "aside from the warm-air problem, which is apparently an uncorrectable design error,...."


    Bean-counters have struck,....AGAIN....!!

    The "warm-air" problem you are describing, experiencing, now exists throughout the automotive industry, going back to the turn of the century, even in many upscale vehicles such as the Porsche 911/996 and Lexus RX series.

    The hot water, engine coolant, flow control valve to the heater core no longer "exists". Most new systems now rely exclusively on the reheat/remix blend door/vane to regulate the level of heat the airflow cooled by the A/C evaporator gets before it flows from the system outlets.

    Engine coolant is close to 200F and therefore so is the heater core. A heater core packed VERY TIGHTLY under the dash inside the air distribution plenum. Leave the vehicle parked for a brief period after the engine coolant is in the normal operating range and of course the "elements", A/C evaporator included, surrounding, within close range, of the heater core will fairly quickly get HEAT SOAKED.

    Drive along with the A/C off expecting reasonably cool incoming airflow from outside and the airflow temperature will be raised due to the radiant heating from that ~200F heater core nearby. Even worse if you should leave the temperature control setting at anything other than MAX COOLING. Only with MAX cooling will the blend door be completely closed preventing even a small portion of the incoming outside airflow from being heated.

    The DIY solution for my '01 AWD RX300 was quite simple. Go to Home depot and purchase/install a water flow control valve and manually shut off the flow to the heater core during the cooling season.

    To get the best fuel and A/C efficiency during the cooling season always use recirculate mode, MAX cooling (reheat/remix vane/door FULLY closed), and then use, adjust, the blower speed to regulate your comfort level.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I seem to remember that both the low pressure and high pressure (high hysteresis on/off) shutoff/disable pressure switches are in the high pressure "circuit"/side. In which case the low pressure switch, should the refrigerant pressure be "THAT" low, would never allow the compressor to start.

    On the other hand if the system refrigerant charge level were just barely above the low pressure shutoff/disable level the A/C compressor might run continuously, even with low cooling demand, and never cycle "off", never reach the high pressure shutoff point.

    So IMMHO it would be this latter case, the A/C compressor running continuously, even with low cooling demand that might result in premature compressor failure.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "little is gained by turning off the A/C..."

    Yes, turning off the A/C during the "heating" season might not result in anything more than improving FE and.....


    When the A/C is operating in a climate conducive to dehumidification (most wintertime climates are NOT!) the A/C evaporator vane cooling surface area, all 10,000 square inches thereof, will ALWAYS remain covered with a thin film of moisture. If you should happen to cycle the A/C off, or it should cycle off unbeknownst to you, the result might just very well be desastorous.

    Since operating the A/C when the OAT is near or below freezing would result in freezing up the evaporator and blocking all airflow most, if not all, automotive A/C compressors are disabled below about 35F. Additionally the ability for A/C functionality for dehumidification is purely a function of the outside climate, a real WILD CARD, that.

    Below about 45F the possibility that the use of the A/C will be of help in defogging the interior windshield surface, or as an aid to keeping it from fogging over, is a function of the Rh, Relative Humidity, of the local atmosphere. Since the A/C can NEVER reduce the temperature of the incoming airflow below 32F, and that only likely at the LOWEST blower speed, the dewpoint of that atmosphere must be unusually HIGH, by wintertime "standards".

    If you are experiencing windshield fogging just a few miles down the road on an early "coolish" morning you can blame that on "yesterday's" use of the A/C. Worse yet, use it as an "AID" to defogging and then switch it off (both will often happen automatically, with no indication to you of A/C operation, when you first use and then turn off the defrost/defog/demist function) and you will soon get a re-occurance of windshield fogging.

    Personally I disable my A/C compressor capability throughout the winter months and rely only on HEATING the windshield to remove condensation or prevent same.

    That ALWAYS works and with no ILL, DANGEROUS, after effects.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Warm water in the heater core isn't as much of a problem as the exhaust manifold and turbo right up against the cowl that the fresh air passes through. $15 of heat sheild will fix that problem.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Not "warm" water, BUT HOT water, directly in the path of incoming system airflow and in a "container", heat exchanger, designed specifically, lots of heat transfer surface area, to equalize temperature differences between the HOT water inside and the airflow outside.

    Whereas, as you correctly point out via the heat shield suggestion, the other hot objects can only pass their heat to the system airflow via radiation and even that only through another metal object, the firewall/cowl (heat shield..??).

    Block the water flow and see for yourself.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    warm, hot,'s 180-200 degrees. The exhaust manifold and turbo radiate heat in excess of 500 degrees (that's hot). The heat transfer of the metal firewall is far greater than the heat transfer of the plastic air box. Yes, there is heat present that does escape into the cabin but it pales in comparison to that coming through the cowl.
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