Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Ranger III



  • misterratmisterrat Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab this week. I have noticed two annoying noises, and was wondering if anyone else has heard them. The first is a rhythmic thumping sound coming from the front wheels/tires at speeds under 40 mph. There seems to be some rolling resistance associated with the thumping. I wonder if there might be a problem with the front brakes? The second noise is a loud clicking sound coming from the A/C compressor. I looked under the hood, and I noticed that every 30 seconds or so, the A/C compressor makes a loud click sound and then stops. A few seconds later it makes another, louder click sound and starts again. This double click sound repeats over and over again until I turn the climate control knob to a non-A/C selection. Is it normal for the A/C compressor to cycle on and off like that? If so, is it possible to get rid of the loud clicking noise?

    To post a message, you must first Login.
  • misterratmisterrat Posts: 4
    My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4 door has a problem on the passenger side. The front and rear doors were hung a 1/4 inch too high and the rear door latches don't match up with the body of the truck. This causes a clunking sound whenever I drive over a bump in the road due to the rear door latches being off kilter. Is this something Ford will fix under warranty. How hard is it to rehang the doors properly? How long do you think it will have to be in the shop? Has anyone else had a similar problem with their 4 door Ranger? Thanks.
  • Thumbing could be anything like CV axles out of balance on 4X4's, to rims that have had a few too many curb checks. It could also be as simple as a bunch of fix-a-flat inside a tire or two. It's essentially a liquid that's supposed to seal up punctures to get you to the shop, but it's a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to clean out.
    1st, Have all your tires re-balanced, and rim matched. Make sure everything is balanced to 0.00 oz off center. Verify rims themselves aren't out of round, you'll know if they slap on more than 3 oz of lead on either side.
    2nd. Have your drive shafts looked at. (4x4). Otherwise a front-end alignment might point out any problems too.
    I'm at a loss to offer any more on that, but the A/C could be some crud in the freon/coolant. It would cycle through and could cause a sound everytime it is pumped through the compressor. Or the drive belt is not the right size, or maybe the bearings are wearing out. Most likely it's just a failing compressor.

    Re-hanging the doors soundn't be that hard, but it'll take 2 or 3 people to do it. If the dealership won't do it, tell them it opens while driving as it should be under warranty. The rest of your questions just depend on workload at the dealership, but it sould be fairly painless.

    All->Another reason to fully inspect (or have inspected) any car or truck you're about to purchase.

    Frey-->I've used the 8500 and lower, and they get the job done. The 9700 adds an extra roller for looking for tire stiffness, as well as rotational and bi-axis vibration. Definately high-tech, as it will compensate for any part of your tire that doesn't compress under load like the rest. Only Discount tire and the dealerships seem to have them in my area.
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    Hello! I currently own a '98 Suzuki Sidekick Sport JX 4x4, and its been a pain in the butt. I've had hardware problems, warranty repairs, and now the great depression has set in. I haven't had a car for a month now, as the rear end has decided to go at 34,000 miles. I've been shopping around, and I recently came upon a 2000 Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4 door 4x4 with 3.0 FFV Engine and Automatic. It is a really nice truck, and was a leaser, and has 29k on it. The dealer gave me the "asking" price of $16,900. My questions to you are, what do you think of this truck? What would I expect in gas milage with the 3.0 and auto? Is it a reliable vehicle? I want to go from a problem to a nottaproblem vehicle. I would be driving the truck quite a bit, as I will be commuting from where I live now to where I will soon live, which is nearly 100 miles one way, and to college next year. I am 18, and currently have no job, but have the money. Just want some reccomendations from you guys. All help is appreciated!!!!
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    the 3.0 Ranger motor is pretty famous for pinging. if i were you, i'd MAKE SURE that the truck is filled with regular low octane gas (if you can..i know of a local used car dealer who REGULARLY puts high test in these engines to keep them from pinging !). then, i'd run the truck up long grades under fairly heavy throttle, in as high of a gear as possible, to see if pinging is occurring (this may not bother you, but it would drive me nuts). some guys just resort to usuing high test gas to reduce this occurrance (more expensive). if the truck is well cared for, the motor should be good for 200K with careful maintenance [oil changes every 3 or 4K.]. i have found the 3.0to be a nice, smooth motor (mine is a shaker and a knocker..but like it anyways). i have a 4.0 V6, 2000 with a 5 speed auto. the tranny is the nicest automatic i have ever OR truck. you will be getting the 4 speed auto, if i am not mistaken. i can't comment on that tranny. you should clock about 20 to 22 mpg on the highway (at sane speeds) and about 15 to 17 in town. i'd say the price is a little steep. you should be able to buy it for 500 to a grand less. good luck.
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    Thanks for the info. I probably won't be able to look the truck over again good until week after next. I was going to go back tomorrow, however, after spending 8 hours polishing up my piece of junk Suzuki yesterday, when I got up this morning I couldn't move. So, that put off my mowing the lawn another day. And next week, I'll be out of the state, and hopefully enjoy a little vacation. I like this ranger, however, I would rather have one with a 5 speed and cruise, but the auto would be fine, if it just had CRUISE. I'll be doing a lot of long distance driving and I really want it. I don't have it on my Suzuki, and after about 100 miles my foot really starts getting tired. However, overall, which would you reccomend? The 4.0 or 3.0? I want as good of milage as I can get, with at least a little more power than what I have in the 1.8 4 banger I have now. I drove a 2001 Sport Trac with 4.0 and 5 speed auto, liked it, but, I can go either way. I think I might get better milage with a 3.0 and manual. However, its all up in the air right now. Any other feedback is appreciated, from anyone! thanks!
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    Have you experienced any problems, that have kept you from driving it for a few days? Do you think they have a pretty good track record as far as reliability? I really want to make sure that I'm going to be getting a reliable vehicle that will last me another 5 years (payment period) and MANY more! Thanks!
  • davidb72davidb72 Posts: 174
    My Ranger (which I just traded in on a Jeep Wrangler) was the most reliable, best built vehicle I have ever owned... 1995, Supercab, 5 speed, 4 cyl, 118,000 miles. No problems!
  • well, there's plenty of posts about 3.0 vs 4.0l in this forum alone... Somewhere below post # 400 I think... :) But the truck will definately last you, just keep up with the scheduled maintenance.(trans, fuel, air filters) belts, plugs, sensors are all cheap to replace. I've got a '93 4 banger (2.3l) with 136k miles and climbing. Only had a transmission (auto) give the ghost around 115k.

    I would also recommend the 4.0l if you're really going to use the 4x4. But that's maybe just me...
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    I would be using the 4x4 for wintry, snow driving. I'll be living in a city in Middle NC. I'll be driving to college, and in the event I want to, come back where I live now in the Mountains of Southwest VA. If you live here, you need 4 wheel drive! However, I've looked at small cars with front wheel drive, etc, but I really want to stick with a 4x4. I have the sidekick with 1.8 and 4x4, not a problem in snow driving, but its a crappy car... Thanks for the info!
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    i am not an expert on Rangers. go to the Toyota vs. Ranger posts and a guy named Vince8 likely can give you more detail. here is my humble opinion. both the 3.0 and 4.0 are sound, strong motors. the 3.0 should give you about 1 to 1.5 MPG more, according to reviews i studied [i was trying to make the same decision as you]. i decided upon the 4.0 because i tow bass boats (about 1500 lbs) quite a bit and wanted the torque. also, i wanted a 5 speed auto which Ford only offered in 2000 (at least here in the Midwest) in the 4.0. i think in 2001 you CAN get a 5 speed auto with a 3.0 [should be great for better mileage). ALSO, rearend gearing is a factor. i have the taller ratio (higher gearing), i believe it's 3.53 or thereabouts. many 4x4's come with a 4.11 limited slip rearend. this will increase engine speed (on the highway) and use more gas BUT is better for offroading. the 3.0 is a smoother engine DEFINITELY after driving a number of them. the 4.0 is VERY strong a low rpm, but is somewhat "sluggish", and also very noisy (pushrod noise and knocking...i think it's piston slap). good luck on your decision. either motor should give you many years of good service if you maintain them properly. AND the 4 door cab is GREAT !!
    good luck.
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    Thanks again for all the info! You have been a great help! I will be looking into the ranger more in depth within a week or so!!

    Thanks again to all

    If anything new comes up, please let me know!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    4L engine was totally different from earlier years 4L.

    Same size, 4L, but earlier years are OverHeadValves and in 2001 it is a OverHeadCam engine.

    Horsepower went from about 160 to 205.

    With corresponding decrease in milage.

    But, it's going to be a truck. Your milage will be very bad no mater what you buy. Even a 4cyl will not get anywhere near what a car with about the same weight will get.
  • Well my '93 2.3l 4 cyl auto, with 136k miles is getting 20 mpg in the city. (Not too shabby if I say so myself) I say this because my girlfriend's 2001 4 cylinder Accord is getting the same in the city. However Highways milage is about 25-26 for me, but she gets over 30, depending on where she sets the cruise control. Of course I argue wind resistance at that point... :)
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    Another point that someone brought up to me was, and I know this doesn't particularly fit in here, but, I was reccomended to look at cars, rather than trucks, since I'd be in an area with little snow and/or bad weather. However, I can't see myself in a little bitty fuel efficient car, but, that might change. You guys reccomend anything?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    if you want the BEST of small fuel efficient cars, get a Honda Civic. 250 000 mile motors and 30 mpg average. can't beat that. on top of that, their reasle value is excellent. i put 200 000 on and old 81 model and sold it. then, i bought a new 89 DX hatchback. it has about 150 000 on it. maintenance so far: timing belt, spark plugs, 2 alternator belts, and tires. it still runs great, and gets 40 mpg at 65 mph. a fantastic car. another good choice would be a Nissan. they also make strong motors. stay away from American SMALL cars; they are mostly crap.
  • Isn't it wierd that Edmunds has 2002 Ranger data, but, and have nothing yet? Quite frankly, I'm a little dissapointed with the apparant lack of the 4.0l in the 4x2 regular cab. And what's this about the XL4 model?
  • csargeantcsargeant Posts: 2
    2001 Ranger 4x4 and the speedomter will go from 60 mph to 100 and them fall off past 120, running 2000 rpm's. Took it to the dealership and they said that they couldn't find anything wrong...needless to say it didn't act up for them. Any suggestions on what it might be????
  • rta3rta3 Posts: 4
    Don't hold your breath on this.I'm going to do some more research into this to make sure what I was told is correct. Will report back to you as soon as I find out.
  • rta3rta3 Posts: 4
    I did some more research and found out that it can't be done. Sorry if I mislead anyone with innacruate info.I will be more dillagent with my research next time before I post any more messages.
  • I'm not sure about the 4.0L XL model, but I think I mistook the XL4 for the FX4 mentioned on 2002 Ranger Page.

    I still hope a 4.0l is available in the regular cab(Edge with stick and 4x2), as that's what I really want. It looks like I'll be purchasing early summer in 2002, but if it's not available on invoice order, then I'll be purchasing a 2001 ranger.
  • dle01dle01 Posts: 37
    I have a 1999 Ranger 4 door 2WD with the 3.0V6 and automatic transmission. The truck has just over 40k on it, which puts it out of warranty. I recently noticed a small oil leak, and asked my favorite local repair shop (a Goodyear ASC) to take a look at it while the truck was in for an oil change last week. They inform me that the leak is coming from the main seal between the engine and transmission, and that the transmission will have to be removed to replace the seal. In addition, they tell me they have seen this frequently in Rangers, most recently on a 2000 model with just 15k.

    Has anyone experienced this problem before? If it is a common problem, what are my chances of getting Ford to fix it even though the truck is out of warranty? Are there any known Technical Service Bullitins or recalls for this problem?

    I am going to fix it regardless, but I think it is pretty absurd that this kind of problem is occurring on a truck this new. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
  • If it's small, just put a dab of silicone on it. Unless you like spending money.
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    Why don't you try the dealer anyway. Talk to the service manager and state that its just out of warranty and maybe they can help or meet you half way. If you have been going to them for your routine service or just odd jobs they may look at you as a good customer.Its a shot but take it if not try calling Ford cutomer service and explain the situation.
  • 1badsidekick1badsidekick Posts: 135
    Just a small joke here for you guys. You think a '99 Ranger with 40k on it has a bad problem with that oil seal, try a '98 Suzuki Sidekick Sport with 35k on it and the rear end is gone, and no warranty. Also, local dealer has been a pain in the keester to talk to, so, I went for an out of state dealer, who was a lot nicer to me. Good luck getting your ranger repaired. If it proves costly, and its not under warranty, call Ford and/or write them, just might work.
  • dle01dle01 Posts: 37
    1badsidekick -- you are right; one small oil leak does not look like that big a deal compared to your problems. Good luck finding a new vehicle. I have a fairly good relationship with the dealer so I will try there first.

    I would still be interested in hearing from other owners who have experienced this problem, or from anyone who knows of any recall or TSB on the main seal. Thanks.
  • 96flea96flea Posts: 38
    I noticed someone metioning the TSB's but want to know what web site its on. Also, how hard is it to change plugs on a 96 4.0 w/air?
  • 96flea96flea Posts: 38
    Just wanted to know if these thing are cracked up to what there supposed to be. I've heard a 10-16 hp increase, better tranny shifts and better mpg's. It also looks like Superchip is the best according to one of the Ranger web sites.
  • is the TSB site, I believe.

    Don't know about the chips, but it shouldn't be that bad to change out the plugs.

    I do know that my '93 2.3l with dual spark head is a chore. It's a 4 cylinder with 8 spark plugs, two for each combustion chamber. The intake side is a snap(10 minutes tops), but the exhaust side takes about 3 rachet extensions/elbows to get the job done(Takes about 45 minutes). It also sucks paying v8 tuneup prices for a 4 cylinder. Especially when I ran platinum plugs.

    So if I can do that, a V6 shouldn't be as bad.
  • 96flea96flea Posts: 38
    I trid getting my fuel filter off and no problem w/the left tube but the right tube will not budge. What do i have to do?
This discussion has been closed.