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Toyota Echo Transmission

pa_rookiespa_rookies Member Posts: 2
Need a way forward,
I have a 2000 Toyota Echo with 80,000 miles and the dealership has just informed me that i will need a NEW transmission. At the 68,000 mile mark I noticed that the transmission slipped out of gear and going from stop to start it appeared to jump into gear. This is an automatic transmission and i was surprised to think that this was the problem. I cleaned the MAF sensor and everything seemed fine until the 80,000 mark where the problem is almost constant. I replaced the MAF from Auto Zone but the problem continues. The dealership reccomended a transmission flush to possibly narrow down the problem but this failed to get results. The transmission fluid was also replaced at 35,000 by Toyota. I am puzzeled by the MAF that appears to change how the transmission shifts, When I took into the dealership I could not get it into D and only had the lower 2 gears. I pulled over, unplugged and plugged the MAF back in and went the next 5 miles to the dealership witht the trans running perfect. When i discussed this with the mechanic he said the MAF has nothing to do with the transmission. I'm puzzeled by this and can't believe that i need a new trans at 80,000 and would welcome feed back or suggestions that may save me big bucks!


  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I would recommend replacing your auto tranny with a manual. It probably won't cost any more to do so, and if it does, it would only be marginally more. There are so many advantages to having a stick over an auto. They last infinitely longer. An automatic tranny is always the weakest link in any vehicle's drive train. Manuals get better fuel economy, and they're more fun to drive. Going to a manual would save you money in the long run. Automatic tansmissions are lot like power windows; while they seem more convenient up front, they don't last as long and are more expensive to repair. If you're talking about windows or trannies, manual is the only way to go!
  • pa_rookiespa_rookies Member Posts: 2
    That is great advice. Do you feel that the cost would be about the same and is this an easy conversion? I would prefer the manual and never thought of that as an option. I'll keep you posted.
    Do you feel the MAF sensor could cause this condition?
    Thanks very much for the reply.
  • victorialynn84victorialynn84 Member Posts: 2
    I don't know a whole lot about cars but I have a 2001 Echo with 80,000 miles and I have just been told also that I need a new transmission. I've had a few cars in my life and never have I ever needed a new transmission, especially with such a new car. I mean, my father has an 89 and he hasn't even needed a new transmission yet. I am appalled, why do I need a new trans??? Someone help!?!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Get a second opinion! Does the car run right? Did you deal with the shop yourself? (being a woman) Shops have been known to flim flam those who may not be auto savvy. On the other hand they may be perfectly right. Tell me what problems you have having with the car and perhaps I or someone else can help.
  • victorialynn84victorialynn84 Member Posts: 2
    Well I actually went with my father who at first thought i needed to change the transmission fluid, but the fluid was full.. but on the other hand i haven't had it flushed and changed since i've had the car in '03. The only problem I have with the car is when i initially get in it for the day. When I put the car in drive, it takes about 30 seconds to a minute for the car to actually move. It's as if the car is in neutral and takes a few seconds to shift into drive. Any help would be useful, I don't have a thousand dollars for a new trans. I didn't get a second opinion but I plan to on Monday. I mean, wouldnt all of the gears delay if the trans was a problem??? My reverse works perfectly. Please help!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I had a Saturn that did the same thing only it wouldnt go into reverse. It was a bad valve body or something. $700. I just drove it until it didnt move anymore. Looks like the shop is right.
  • mopar71mopar71 Member Posts: 31
    Sorry to hear your problem, I have two toyota echos, I have a 2000 and a 2003,both with auto trans. The 2000 I had the trans fluid changed at about 40k.the 2003 I bought used and I will change it myself.Never had any problems with either. have the trans oil changed at the dealer first! and have them flush it, . :D
  • thompinethompine Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 automatic Echo. Mechanic said it is transmission. If I drive the car cold when I give it gas it hesitates as I continue to give it gas it picks up and will go.
    Could this be transmission. Car has 78,000 miles. I am the only owner. :shades:
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    How theoil level? Frankly it doesnt sound like a trans problem to me. I would get another opinion. Good luck! Usually when the trans goes it wont shift at all or the car even move.
  • andystar1andystar1 Member Posts: 4
    This is in response to post #11

    I have 2000 Echo with 100k miles.
    At around 60k miles, I had exact same problem.
    It is not a transmission problem.
    Replace MAF filter!
  • treah44treah44 Member Posts: 1
    Is the MAF the Mass Air flow sensor located in the air cleaner,
    I've had trouble w/that before and cleaning it did the trick, Where is the MAF filter ?
    My tranny jumped into neutral in a rainstorm, but the shifter was in drive !!, coasted to the side and a minute later it was OK..At 65000, guess I need the fluid changed ...
  • dfforbesdfforbes Member Posts: 1
    I need to pull the engine and manual transaxle on my 2002 Echo. Is there a way to disconnect the driveshafts from the trans without disconnecting the steering knuckle, tie rods, and the wheel end?

    Thanks in advance.
  • happy33happy33 Member Posts: 1
    Hi I'm new here. I have a question for all you good people. My mother has a 01 manual trans toyota echo. At first when you put the car into gear it would go slow and then about a cople a of seconds later it would speed up, Now you turn on the car you put it into gear and you have to excelarate really hard for it to even move and it doesn't even speed up anymore you have to force the engine for it to walk. what do you think it could be.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Are there any error codes?
  • dakedake Member Posts: 131
    Fuel pump?
  • thegreyonethegreyone Member Posts: 24
    My son just bought a 2000 ECHO with a 5 sp tranny and 255k kilometers or 160k miles. It's in really good shape actually and we LOVE driving it around.

    When idling there is a chirping noise coming from the driver's side of the engine. When slight pressure is applied on the clutch pedal it disappears and then reappears when the pedal is released.

    A Google search has someone saying if the chirping disappears when the clutch is depressed it is the input shaft bearing... if it only chirps when the clutch is depressed and quits when it is released , then it is the throw-out bearing.

    I think is must be the reverse... if the chirping goes away when the clutch is depressed that is a noisy throw-out bearing (not a big deal).

    First... has anyone else had this chirping noise?

    If so... should we be concerned?
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    My 240D had noises like that for like 50k miles before I sold it. (input shaft bearing) Maybe it still does! If your son can be persuaded to take it easy (HA!) everything should hang together for a while yet. Hopefully you can find a trustworthy mechanic in the meantime. But with any luck that wont be necessary.
  • thegreyonethegreyone Member Posts: 24
    That's good news... or not? So you think it was input shaft or throw out bearing?

    Re: "take it easy" I think he realizes that this car is in it's senior years... but being a new driver, he might not have the sense of what is hard on a vehicle. I'm that one that will rev it out while accelerating... it's fun to drive... but smooth shifting is not likely to hurt it.

    Thx for the feedback. Anyone else have chirping????
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    and I agree with kneisl, that's the input shaft bearing. And they can do that for a VERY long time before failing, so on a 160K-mile car I wouldn't worry about it too much...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • redechoredecho Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo with over 100K miles on it. It drives just fine, but this year I was told that I needed to have its transmission flushed. How often is this necessary? I have never had this done before, and like I said, it drives fine, no issues.
  • thegreyonethegreyone Member Posts: 24
    I used to drive a '96 Ford Windstar and I still drive a '94 Mercury Sable Wagon. Both were notorious for having the automatic transmission blow up at just over 100K. I put a transmission cooler on the Windstar since I pulled a small utility trailer for holidays over the Rocky Mountains yearly.

    I thought that given the reputation of the transmissions, that I would occasionally flush the transmissions... thinking if I change oil every 5000 - 10000 km then changing the tranny fluid every 80K or 100K would certainly be reasonable.

    The outcome... I had 270,000 Km on the van when I slipped off an icy road last year (they wrote it off because the airbag went off) AND I am still communting daily with the Sable wagon and it's pushing 300,000 Km. I have had NO tranny problems except for cracked line to the radiator that was easily replaced.

    IMHO... I'd say that the flush is WELL WORTH IT! :shades:
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Automatic, I assume? If you have a manual, they are taking you for a ride. Manuals don't get flushed.

    On an automatic, it's nice to do once in a long while as it gets all the fluid out and exchanges it, which regular drain-n-fills don't do. But also be aware that it is a MASSIVE profit item for mechanics.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • thegreyonethegreyone Member Posts: 24
    Actually I shopped around for pricing on a automatic "flush". One of the local, small time (not large chain) lube places had the best pricing. They took off the pan, cleaned it, changed the filter, put on a new gasket and then disconnected the pipe to the radiator cooling tank and kept on adding fluid until it ran out clean. As mentioned above, just "draining" doesn't work because the torque converter pools about 1/4 of the fluid and that doesn't "drain"... so you have to run the vehicle and have the new fluid "pump" though until it come out clean and pink. It was about $CDN 115 but there was LOTS of fluid pumped through the tranny.

    Oh... the other thing that I do is about every 25 000 I add a slippery/slidey "conditioner" that cleans and lubricated the valves and pumps. I sometimes got a clunk when shifting... and this always smoothed things out. Again... only about $8 and likely worth it.

    So... shop around for pricing and ask them exactly what they do... if it is just drain and fill... it doesn't change ALL the fluid. Ask around... /denis
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Typical mechanic scam - dont fall for it! There is no requirement in the owners manual to change the auto transmission oil EVER. Or even the filter. The 1979 Chevy Silverado pickup truck I gave my brother in law at 250k miles now has 350k miles on it and the transmission oil is origional. (three engines though) A typical auto trans has like 10 qts of oil in it mostly for hydraulic power transmission issues NOT for lubrication. Mechnaics dreamed up the "power flush" thing to dupe gullible motorists. As you say your runs fine without any "flushes" at all.
  • thegreyonethegreyone Member Posts: 24
    Maybe mechanics are recommending "flushes" nowdays because the darn cheap transmissions are blowing up (I don't know about the reliability of the Toyota trannies). BTW, the 1979 Chevy truck transmission (likely a Powerglide) were INDESTRUCTIBLE... not like the flimsy ones they put in cars since the 90s. Do what you think you should... but if a tranny is known to blow up at 120K or whatever... I'm still ahead by doing 2 or 3 flushes by 300K... and no surprises nor downtime on holidays etc.
  • shebalennyshebalenny Member Posts: 3
    2001 echo 5spd 100 thou miles. Had clutch and throwout bearing replaced...think the preasure plate as well but dont remember for sure. With clutch out in gear or at idle there is a loud growling noise. Noise is so loud it can be heard about the engine at any speed. I thought it muswt be tranny going...I did read where a bad preasure plate can make noise as well...any guesses
  • shebalennyshebalenny Member Posts: 3
    I forgot to mention that the clutch is jerky and it is hard to get smooth starts now. That wasnt the problem before the clutch was replaced....thats why I think maybe it isn't the tranny
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Sounds like a bad clutch job to me. 100k miles is not a lot for a clutch, and it is very low for a manual tranny. If the noise wasn't there before the clutch job, it shouldn't be there now. There are a few things they can screw-up on a clutch job, and it sounds like the bearing was not installed correctly. Is it making noise in neutral, clutch released (foot off), or specifically when? Pressure plate should have been changed, but yes, this could cause problems too. Let us know specifically when you have the noise, and when you don't.
  • shebalennyshebalenny Member Posts: 3
    no noise when clutch is engaged....just the opposite of throwout bearing (or so Ive been told.) Noise is when foot is off the clutch...even in neutral. This all started when we DID have a bad throwout bearing so clutch was replaced at same time...It is my daughters car. I willl have to check with her to see if presure plate was changed. Now to get a smooth launch you have to slip the clutch a lot...there goes that clutch....or it jerks a couple times.
  • garychaitgarychait Member Posts: 3
    '03 auto w/63K miles. when start in cold weather seems reluctant to shift out of first gear until it warms up a tad. what is this?
  • lhansonlhanson Member Posts: 268
    That's what it is supposed to do. Don't worry about it.
  • garychaitgarychait Member Posts: 3
    thanks, but is there a quick non-techie answer as to why it does that? thanks.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Toyota designs them to rev higher when they are cold because it warms up the catalytic converter more quickly and consequently reduces smog-forming emissions. It has the added benefit of saving gas, believe it or not, as the engine uses a lot less gas when it is warm than when it is cold, and it warms up the engine more quickly too.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mrnepinakmrnepinak Member Posts: 5
    the transmission is control by the ecu and the mass air flow meter is an input to the ecu.
    driving with a scan tool hooked up may give some insight.
  • mrnepinakmrnepinak Member Posts: 5
    An input shaft bearing will grind or growel.
    chirping is the the relaease breaing or its linkage.
  • mrnepinakmrnepinak Member Posts: 5
    90% of the toyota automatic transmission failures are because the fluid was never replaced.
    look at it as insurance against the trany failing
  • mrnepinakmrnepinak Member Posts: 5
    you have that backwards. the massive profit is in flushing a transmission.
    if wait a long time, you will need to flush the transmission.
    drian and fill is ok if it is done reguarly on a toyota.
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    LOL! I wrote that more than two years ago! But I didn't have it backwards, although I may have expressed it badly....what I meant was transmission flushes are a massive profit item for shops. From what you wrote, I believe we agree on that....

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • untrapableuntrapable Member Posts: 4
    Hey guy's. I too have the chirping sound or squeling sound,on my 01 ECHO sedan 5 speed.When you engage the clutch the sound seems to go away.If it is the throwout bearing or, and pressure plate.How much does this job run?($)In genearal what does a new clutch run?
    Also my clutch seems to be losing pressure.(feels very lite)any ideas?
    It seems to shift okay but a little jerky sometimes.
    I just bought the car 5 day's ago and put over 1000 km's on it.Bought it with 145,000 k's
    90,000 miles or so.never been in a clamied accident.I am quite worried with the problems,because this is a super reliable brand.Yes the car is 10 years old and counting.
    Any input would be great.Or just chime in on your ECHO problems or experinces.

    I ran over a curb doing 30 miles an hour, was more of a concrete island dividing two lanes at an intersection.I was lucky to miss a metal light pole by just 3 feet.The little echo took all the force of the accident with the steel wheel and tire.There was a big bubble on the tire after.I thought for sure i killed the underneath of the car ,but all was needed was a used tire,and banging the steel wheel back to shape.And a balance and i was on my way.Tough little cars for sure.High ground clearance.

    Well thanks Bryan in London Ontario Canada
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    edited November 2012
    If pressing on the clutch makes the sound go away that is classic throwout bearing.

    "Weakness" is just the hydralic operateing system. ECHO has a light clutch pedal pressure. As long as the clutch doesnt slip while accelerating its fine.

    Sounds like the clutch is tweaked but serviceable.

    Personally I can drive a new car with a clutch 200,000 miles without replacement (or more) I have NEVER needed to replace a clutch.

    So if the car was mine I would just drive it hoping the dammage will stop and not get worse.

    But in the meantime look for a shop and get estimates. I dont know what they get for a clutch job but the ECHO is failry complicated to get the trans in and out Im thinking.

    Good luck and tell us what happens!

    Also post something at least once a week to liven thingsup around here! I love to gab.
  • untrapableuntrapable Member Posts: 4
    Yeah, i'll probably just keep on driving it for now.I don't need it every day.
    It's just, the clutch seemed tighter when I first got the car.Maybe low on fluid.I just hate not having a trustworthy mechanic.
    Thanks for the input kneisl1.The car is great on gas even know it's getting below freezing out.
    I really did'nt want a 5-speed at first,I've had a couple in the past for only short periods of time.The gas savings is worth rowing through the gears in the city.

    do you have an
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I bought a 2001 ECHO with a five speed in the fall of 2000 and had it for eight years. But I have problems with my feet and cant push a clutch in anymore. So I bought a 2009 Yaris with an automatic transmission.

    The ECHO is the better car in my opinion.

    I bought a 2000 ECHO with automatic for my son five or six years ago for $3000 with 117k miles on it. It has over 180k miles on it now with no problems except for a new MAF sensor.
  • kat88kat88 Member Posts: 1

    Today, when I shifted into 1st gear, the car moved very slowly even when I applied gas. Did the same in reverse. I decided to try something and put the car in first and took my foot off the clutch without gas and the car did not stall. Does anyone know what this could be? I am about to sell my car as is, and want to ensure I can let any buyer know about what problems I have experienced. The car is a 2001 and has 233,000. I just flushed the transmission fluid last winter and regularly change the oil.

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I think the clutch is slipping. (the driven disk it not being clamped to the flywheel as it normally would be.)

    If the transmission was bad it would not go into gear, or it would pop out of gear (any gear) while driving.

    If you are driving along in, say, 3rd gear and accelerate briskly and the engine revs but the car doesnt move any faster, the clutch is "slipping" and needs replacement.

    Good Luck!

    PS My advice is take the ECHO to a shop and have them fix the clutch (~$1000) and KEEP IT! : )
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Yes, agree with this answer. Clutch needs to be replaced, including the disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, and remove the flywheel and resurface. Also, replace the slave cylinder. Don't drive it with the cluch slipping, or the flywheel can be damaged beyond repair (may have to replace it also).
  • iynosiynos Member Posts: 2
    Please be advised that if you replace your automatic transmission with a manual, you will also be faced with the cost of repairing your clutch when it goes out on you. Automatic transmission has been very good for me. I have driven manual all my life and I can say that the cost of repairs is about the same.
  • iynosiynos Member Posts: 2
    My Daughter has a 2002 Toyota Echo and whenever she is driving between 60MPH-70MPH the transmission jumps to neutral and back on drive again. It almost feels like someone bumps you slightly from the back, but instantaneously it will go back to driving fine. Could this be transmission slipping or just something that needs servicing. Please help and thanks.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Although I can no longer drive a stick I never changed a clutch in a car in 35 years. I put 250,000 miles on the one in my 74 Beetle!

    You must be doing something wrong.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    First thing check the oil level in it.

    Second thing have it changed by a shop that hooks up a continous feed to the trans so ALL the oil is changed. I believe the trans takes special Toyota semi synthetic oil... guess is the trans is shot. Get a used one from a junkyard and have it installed.

    Good luck and tell us what happens!
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