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2000 Ford F-150 problems

aparadelaaparadela Posts: 3
edited March 2014 in Ford
Have a year 2000 Ford F-150 XLT V6 (4.3L) manual
transmission extended cab w/ 7k miles.

When I try to get into 3rd gear above 2000RPM, it
grinds no matter what; not much, just enough to be
noticeable. This has been happening since the
truck was new but it's starting to do it more
often. Sounds to me like a blown synchronizer in
the transmission but some have told me 3rd gear
grinds a little on many transmissions.

On a separate issue, the engine knocks whenever it
goes below 1500RPM with any load (not on neutral).
This started happening about a month after I
bought the truck. Funny thing my last truck (Mazda
B1500 aka Ford Ranger 4 cyl) did the exact same
thing.

I don't want to have the car in the dealer for a
week unless I have to.

Would like to hear if you've had / heard someone
w/ the same experience.

Thanks,


Alex
«1

Comments

  • dbhulldbhull Posts: 150
    Never owned or know much about the new Ford 6 Cyl., but I have heard that the new Ford 6's are much less engine in power and reliability than the bulletproof 300 I6 predecessor.

    Hope you get it resolved.

    Dan.
  • page62page62 Posts: 30
    Take it to the dealer. A grinding 3rd gear is just going to get worse. Could be the synchronizer.

    The knocking below 1500 rpm is a problem that may be fixed by resetting the computer. Disconnect the battery, turn on the headlights to drain any stray electrons. Leave it for a few minutes. Then reconnect and see if it fixes the problem. (Can't hurt...)
  • aparadelaaparadela Posts: 3
    I'll try resetting the computer and let you know.

    About the engine, can't compare, I never had a Ford I6. The truck moves well, specially since it's a manual transmission.

    Thanks for the tips.


    Alex
  • drof1drof1 Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a similar truck.I sometimes have problems getting into 5th gear.also,when driving over a bumpy road there seems to be a lot of vibration transferrred to the shifter.it moves quite a lot.wondering if you've seen this also.been a while since i drove a stick,not sure if this is normal.

    thanks
    Bill
  • aparadelaaparadela Posts: 3
    Reset the computer by disconnecting the battery, engine knocking is gone! Thanks for the tip. Question is why this is the case, will it happen again, and is there a permanent "fix" ?

    As far as the tranny, the only problem I have is the grinding 3rd gear above 1500RPM. All other gears are very smooth (including 5th). I've never had a problem getting into any gear.

    As far as bumps being transferred to the shifter, I haven't noticed it at all. Could be a bad transmission mount.?

    I have noticed that when I hit bumps while I'm breaking, the break pedal feels it big time. It's extremely annoying but I've also seen it in my wife's Dodge Caravan. It may be something related to ABS kicking in.

    I'm taking mine in for the 3rd great problem the moment I can arrange to be without my truck for a couple of weeks.

    On a separate note, I know a couple of people that screwed up their Ford's manual transmissions by not putting the correct transmission fluid in.

    Thanks,


    Alex
  • mjm626mjm626 Posts: 1
    Not sure if I'm in the right area to send e-mail, but here we go. Going to purchase a '2000 F-150 XLT with a 4.6 V8 manual transmission. Trying to find out if any owners out there with same engine have had any problems with the 4.6. Thanking you in advance, Mark
  • okioki Posts: 6
    I have the engine/tranny combination you're looking at. My mileage is around 14 mpg, but I do 95% city driving and tend to hold onto the gears longer than recommended. I wish Ford offered the 5.4 with a manual.
  • spotts3spotts3 Posts: 1
    I have an 89 Bronco II and a 2000 F150 both with anti-lock brakes. The bumps you feel are normal and represent the ABS system working. I thought my brakes were bad on the Bronco (and the truck) but after consulting the owners manual (particularly on the F150) I discovered it's normal.
    As for the tranny - get it to the dealer when you can, It won't get better over time;-)
  • pbiipbii Posts: 1
    I have a Triton V8 2000 F150 extended cab and wondered if anyone out there has experienced the following problems:
    After filling the tank, the gas needle won't completely register until at least 1/4 of the tank has been used. I thought it was possibly the cold weather but it's just as bad this summer.
    Also, has anyone noticed a vibration rattle noise in the windshield trim when reaching around 70 mph?
    Thanks!
  • dsieberdsieber Posts: 1
    I'm looking at similar 1998 XLt but wonder about gas mileage and durability , etc. with the two engine choices.
  • pbii: I just picked up my own F-150 4.6L V8 last Friday. Being anal retentive, I actually read most of the manual. Not being sufficiently anal retentive to have memorized it (yet!), I can still recall that if you only fill up a few gallons (3? 4?) the needle will take a while to update on the dash gas gauge and properly display the fill level exactly as you describe it. This appears to be not a problem, but a feature! ;-)
  • rolltide4rolltide4 Posts: 1
    On the 1999 F-150 if add fuel to vehicle while it is running the fuel gauge will move very slow, Once you cut the vehicle off it will re-program.
  • jamesl3jamesl3 Posts: 12
    I HAVE A 2000 F-150 WITH A 5.4 V-8 AND AUTOMATIC TRANS, IT HAS DEVELOPED A VIBRATION THAT CAN BE FELT IN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL UNDER A LIGHT ENGINE LOAD BETWEEN 30-50 MPH, ANY IDEAS OUT THERE.
  • rrichfrrichf Posts: 212
    aparadela,
    I remember reading somewhere in the Ford owner manual or possibly shop manuals for either m-y'92 or m-y'99 about rough running engine. It seems that the computer would need to calibrate itself by the engine idle. After battery replacement the trick was to let the engine idle for 60-90 seconds with everything else off. (A/C radio fan etc.) The computer reprograms itself and the engine is fine. If it were me, I would do the battery disco/headlight thing again and then alow the truck to idle for a minute or two.

    Rich

    BTW - Some of the local (LA) shops that replace batteries would do the reprogramming for a fee. (Like $12)
  • carleton1carleton1 Posts: 560
    as it will provide much more safety for him and his family than the small car he was driving. What is the value of the life of a wife or child? Is the few dollars each year one could save by having great gas mileage worth the risk? Back in the 70's a car company got into trouble showing the results of a wreck in a small, economy car with the caption to the effect "But it got 30 MPG"
  • tomawi1tomawi1 Posts: 6
    Just bought a new F150 supercrew. While back someone was talking about duals. Believe the company name started with a "V". Want something that is not to loud. Highway driving doesn't blow you out of the cab. Any suggestions??
  • tony446tony446 Posts: 2
    Mark, I just bought my new pickup in Jan., 2000. Have approx. 7000 miles on it. I have own several pickup trucks, both chevy/gmc and ford. I am personally sold on Ford. People say that Chevy is the best, but I have had nothing but problems with them. Now, the new Silverado's have a better ride, but as far as being tuff, I'll stay with Ford. PS: No problems with the 4.6, and as far as gas mileage, well, it's no GEO.
  • I bought a new Ford F-150 SuperCab 4.2 V6 in June and the window sticker stated that the truck should get twenty (20) miles to the gallon with highway driving. Mine does not, the best that I have been able to get on a trip was 16mpg. I drive eight miles to town and then five miles across town to work each day, and I get 15mpg. The dealer tells me there is nothing wrong with the truck and that their test equipment shows the truck getting 17.2mpg. Any ideas about what I can do?
  • luvboxrsluvboxrs Posts: 47
    Has anyone EVER bought a car that got the mileage professed on the window sticker?

    Do you need a full size pickup? Concerns about mpg usually mean a purchase of a car or compact pickup rather than a full size or SUV.
  • OK, do you remember hearing something about the "fine print" from your dad or teachers? This is a practical application of that knowledge. Things you'll need: Your window sticker (or go read another like yours at the dealer), Good eyesight, bifocals or a magnifying glass. Now, read the section that covers the EPA Estimates (note that word!) of mileage. Continue reading. You should find that it says something very like "Mileage figures are for comparison purposes only. Your mileage may vary." The last you will see occasionally on these boards abbreviated YMMV and signifying that generally your opinion/experience/attitude may vary. FWIW
  • cdeancdean Posts: 1,110
    mpg

    The window sticker estimates are reported by the EPA thru the manufacturer. I'm not sure exactly how it works, but with the Big 3 trucks there is a general trend..

    GM trucks usually right at sticker estimates
    Ford usually just a hair below or equal to estimates
    Dodge usually less than estimates ( and the estimates aren't even good)
  • ringmanringman Posts: 3
    I am ready to order my F150 SuperCrew, but I want the new color "Chestnut" with the Dark Graphite interior. Ford only offers the "Parchment". Does any one have any suggestion on how to get this ordered or change ford's mine and offer at least two interior colors with the chestnut color. I E-mail ford home page they say this is done at the Executive level with market data, customer demand and dealer input, but I haven't got any dealer to have any input yet . The color is to new to have market data. I as customer demand it
  • meredithmeredith Posts: 577
    After 30 or more days of inactivity....

    this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.

    Front Porch Philosopher
    SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
  • Very rough idle when stopprd (truckowner) Fri 17 Nov '00 (08:30 AM)

    All,
    Bought an extended cab 2000 f-150 4X4 5.4 L. Got 8300 miles on it. Idle got rougher (or misfiring started to happen) as miles increased but not all the time. When I stop at a light, whether in gear or park, after about 5 minutes of city driving the engine will idle rough sometimes. After about 15 min of driving rough idle is gone. Idling can get so bad at times that it feels as if the engine will stall but it never does.

    Remember when you would get a cracked spark plug or distributor cap (whats that!) and it got wet out. Remember the firing problems that would result. Well that is the feeling I get every now and again but usually it is just a rough idle and doesn't get this extreme.

    The on board computer won't trap this problem, which is to say the service engine light won't come on, and the Ford dealer diagnostic dude says rough idle from time to time is normal to try and get lower milage and emissions (they adjust so lean that rough idles happen). When it idles rough, or it misfires, the tac doesn't drop, at least not noticable.

    Once the truck lost power on an on-ramp when I "stepped on it" a little more agressively than usual (half way to the floor). The result was that it cutout for a second and then responded to my accelecator in a sluggish manner. After about 10 seconds of this my truck had the gumption I origionally bought it for.

    I would hate to have to live with this problem for the life of my truck and would appreciate any help and/or direction anyone can give me.

    Thanks,
    truckowner
  • rvsv5rvsv5 Posts: 8
    recently bought Ford F150 extended cab. Noticing following probs: 1. windshield crack, believed may be to do internal pressure during extreme heat and due to design of front window. 2. "popcorn" sound coming from under the hood when comes to a stop, may be water-condensation from a/c hitting some hot part of engine. Anyone else have any problems similar to this?
  • Yup I get the same popcorn sound. Especially when I fiddle with the A/C controls from one setting to another. Ford mechanic once told me it had something to do with the hydraulic clutch which struck me as odd due to the fact I have an automatic transmission. Maybe he didn't quite get what I was talking about. I assumed the same thing as you (condensation-hitting something hot). Let me know if you find out anything about the popcorn sound. I;ll do the same if I find out anything.

    My valves (and or lifters) have chattered on a couple of super cold mornings, warms up for about 30 seconds and then is gone. This will get worse as time progresses, has already. Been down this road with my old 92 Mazda. I don't even dare tell my Ford dealer about this because they will just tell me, after a week of me driving a rental Tempo, that they "couldn't duplicate the problem". Odometer showed they test drove my truck a total of 25 miles over the course of a week to no avail.
  • rvsv5rvsv5 Posts: 8
    ok, i am taking my in to red mc combs tomorrow, see what they say, I wonder if they have any type of advance sheets or repair sheets that Ford passes to the dealerships regarding potential areas like this, and if they did, where would I find one? Anyway, i will let you know what they tell me, I want to make sure it is documented in their computer if nothing else.
  • My truck is a 99 f150 supercab 4X4 offroad package with the 5.7 liter motor. At around 12K miles, I encountered a vibration when I was traveling at 30-60 mph and tried to accerlarate. The truck was somewhat sluggish also. Idle was not rough, but I could tell that something was not the same. I ran at least 3 tank fulls to see if it was bad gas.

    Well about 2 weeks had gone by, I took it in to the nearest dealer. After the transmission guy said nothing was wrong and the motor 'specialist' said nothing wrong, the service person called and said that they could not find a problem.

    I told him to take the truck for a test drive on the freeway in front of the dealership. He called back and said that the truck was back with the trans guy. Later on, the trans guy could still not find anything wrong.

    He took it to the engine guys. They went over the motor completely. They found that the number 4 cylinder was not firing... DUH!!!!!!

    They replaced the sparkplug/coil and the sparkplug wire. Fixed the problem..... for now...

    Now the big newsflash......

    I now have 34K miles and have been noticing a burning smell when I stop after driving the truck. I looked all over and could never find where it was coming from.

    Last week while doing an oil change, I found oil was running down the sides of the transmission. I immediately took the truck in to the local dealership.

    After two days of waiting, the serviceman called to say that I indeed had an oil leak. The leak was between the engine head and the block. The head gasket(s) were allowing oil to leak! WOW! What??

    I could not believe it. Then he stated that the engine was making a 'Knocking' sound. The engine 'specialist' determined that there is internal damage to the motor and that a new motor needs to be put into my truck.

    At this point (and still) I am pissed. A new truck with only 34K miles, and it needs a new motor?????? The reason (as stated by the serviceman)was that there is a design flaw with the head gasket (and the way in which the head and block come together)..... WHAT?????

    I inquired about if this is an isolated problem. And the serviceman stated that there have been at least 5 or 6 trucks that have come in with similiar problems in the past month. I then inquired if there was a recall???? He stated that there were no recalls on the 5.7 liter motor, and then he started crawfishing on everything else.... He is either lying or there is more there???

    Anyway, I am at least 2-3 weeks, probably more, from getting my brand new $30,000 truck back. I haven't decided what to do, but I am probably going to get rid of it ASAP..... Oh by the way, I only get a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty with the new engine.
  • Well I wasn't going to say anything about this because I didn't want to seem like a cronic complainer but I guess I have to come clean. I was getting a slight rattle coming through the steering column when I would go over slight bumps on the road (old un-even asphalt not pot holes) but it has since subsided but is still there somewhat. Actually I believe it has now manifested itself in a slight vibration at around 65 mpg. I told the guys and they said the right front was off balanced a bit. They balanced it but it is coming back. I believe something, as a matter of course, has loosened in the right front end and was responsible for the rattle and is now throwing the tire off balance. Hey I love my truck but I cringe every time I fire it up for fear I am going to be disappointed by yet another thing to add to the list.

    Back to the rough idle, I did manage to get the truck to idle rough on one occasion will the mechanic and service manager in the truck. It was slight but it did give me some creditability (some I'm no mechanic I'm sure the service guys keep reminding each other). The mechanic said it felt like a spark plug or coil problem. So fix it right wrong. They took my truck for a week (see original post) and the diagnostic dude and his $30,000 machine said the rough idle was normal to ensure the truck passed emmissions and met the mpg listed (right). I told them about it idling rough to the point of stalling but not quite doing so but they can't duplicate it. I'm not too concerned because the idling thing is becoming much more frequent and it is only a matter of time before I'll be there with 'the boys' and be able to make my truck do the shake. Asked the service manager to let me drive the truck with the diagnostic machine and I'll get them all the data they need but he says "no can do, that's a $30K machine". News flash so is my truck!
  • I heard that Ford has had some problems from the new 5.4 engines and had to replace a few
This discussion has been closed.