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2000 Ford F-150 problems
Have a year 2000 Ford F-150 XLT V6 (4.3L) manual
transmission extended cab w/ 7k miles.
When I try to get into 3rd gear above 2000RPM, it
grinds no matter what; not much, just enough to be
noticeable. This has been happening since the
truck was new but it's starting to do it more
often. Sounds to me like a blown synchronizer in
the transmission but some have told me 3rd gear
grinds a little on many transmissions.
On a separate issue, the engine knocks whenever it
goes below 1500RPM with any load (not on neutral).
This started happening about a month after I
bought the truck. Funny thing my last truck (Mazda
B1500 aka Ford Ranger 4 cyl) did the exact same
thing.
I don't want to have the car in the dealer for a
week unless I have to.
Would like to hear if you've had / heard someone
w/ the same experience.
Thanks,
Alex
transmission extended cab w/ 7k miles.
When I try to get into 3rd gear above 2000RPM, it
grinds no matter what; not much, just enough to be
noticeable. This has been happening since the
truck was new but it's starting to do it more
often. Sounds to me like a blown synchronizer in
the transmission but some have told me 3rd gear
grinds a little on many transmissions.
On a separate issue, the engine knocks whenever it
goes below 1500RPM with any load (not on neutral).
This started happening about a month after I
bought the truck. Funny thing my last truck (Mazda
B1500 aka Ford Ranger 4 cyl) did the exact same
thing.
I don't want to have the car in the dealer for a
week unless I have to.
Would like to hear if you've had / heard someone
w/ the same experience.
Thanks,
Alex
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Comments
Hope you get it resolved.
Dan.
The knocking below 1500 rpm is a problem that may be fixed by resetting the computer. Disconnect the battery, turn on the headlights to drain any stray electrons. Leave it for a few minutes. Then reconnect and see if it fixes the problem. (Can't hurt...)
About the engine, can't compare, I never had a Ford I6. The truck moves well, specially since it's a manual transmission.
Thanks for the tips.
Alex
thanks
Bill
As far as the tranny, the only problem I have is the grinding 3rd gear above 1500RPM. All other gears are very smooth (including 5th). I've never had a problem getting into any gear.
As far as bumps being transferred to the shifter, I haven't noticed it at all. Could be a bad transmission mount.?
I have noticed that when I hit bumps while I'm breaking, the break pedal feels it big time. It's extremely annoying but I've also seen it in my wife's Dodge Caravan. It may be something related to ABS kicking in.
I'm taking mine in for the 3rd great problem the moment I can arrange to be without my truck for a couple of weeks.
On a separate note, I know a couple of people that screwed up their Ford's manual transmissions by not putting the correct transmission fluid in.
Thanks,
Alex
As for the tranny - get it to the dealer when you can, It won't get better over time;-)
After filling the tank, the gas needle won't completely register until at least 1/4 of the tank has been used. I thought it was possibly the cold weather but it's just as bad this summer.
Also, has anyone noticed a vibration rattle noise in the windshield trim when reaching around 70 mph?
Thanks!
I remember reading somewhere in the Ford owner manual or possibly shop manuals for either m-y'92 or m-y'99 about rough running engine. It seems that the computer would need to calibrate itself by the engine idle. After battery replacement the trick was to let the engine idle for 60-90 seconds with everything else off. (A/C radio fan etc.) The computer reprograms itself and the engine is fine. If it were me, I would do the battery disco/headlight thing again and then alow the truck to idle for a minute or two.
Rich
BTW - Some of the local (LA) shops that replace batteries would do the reprogramming for a fee. (Like $12)
Do you need a full size pickup? Concerns about mpg usually mean a purchase of a car or compact pickup rather than a full size or SUV.
The window sticker estimates are reported by the EPA thru the manufacturer. I'm not sure exactly how it works, but with the Big 3 trucks there is a general trend..
GM trucks usually right at sticker estimates
Ford usually just a hair below or equal to estimates
Dodge usually less than estimates ( and the estimates aren't even good)
this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickups, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
All,
Bought an extended cab 2000 f-150 4X4 5.4 L. Got 8300 miles on it. Idle got rougher (or misfiring started to happen) as miles increased but not all the time. When I stop at a light, whether in gear or park, after about 5 minutes of city driving the engine will idle rough sometimes. After about 15 min of driving rough idle is gone. Idling can get so bad at times that it feels as if the engine will stall but it never does.
Remember when you would get a cracked spark plug or distributor cap (whats that!) and it got wet out. Remember the firing problems that would result. Well that is the feeling I get every now and again but usually it is just a rough idle and doesn't get this extreme.
The on board computer won't trap this problem, which is to say the service engine light won't come on, and the Ford dealer diagnostic dude says rough idle from time to time is normal to try and get lower milage and emissions (they adjust so lean that rough idles happen). When it idles rough, or it misfires, the tac doesn't drop, at least not noticable.
Once the truck lost power on an on-ramp when I "stepped on it" a little more agressively than usual (half way to the floor). The result was that it cutout for a second and then responded to my accelecator in a sluggish manner. After about 10 seconds of this my truck had the gumption I origionally bought it for.
I would hate to have to live with this problem for the life of my truck and would appreciate any help and/or direction anyone can give me.
Thanks,
truckowner
My valves (and or lifters) have chattered on a couple of super cold mornings, warms up for about 30 seconds and then is gone. This will get worse as time progresses, has already. Been down this road with my old 92 Mazda. I don't even dare tell my Ford dealer about this because they will just tell me, after a week of me driving a rental Tempo, that they "couldn't duplicate the problem". Odometer showed they test drove my truck a total of 25 miles over the course of a week to no avail.
Well about 2 weeks had gone by, I took it in to the nearest dealer. After the transmission guy said nothing was wrong and the motor 'specialist' said nothing wrong, the service person called and said that they could not find a problem.
I told him to take the truck for a test drive on the freeway in front of the dealership. He called back and said that the truck was back with the trans guy. Later on, the trans guy could still not find anything wrong.
He took it to the engine guys. They went over the motor completely. They found that the number 4 cylinder was not firing... DUH!!!!!!
They replaced the sparkplug/coil and the sparkplug wire. Fixed the problem..... for now...
Now the big newsflash......
I now have 34K miles and have been noticing a burning smell when I stop after driving the truck. I looked all over and could never find where it was coming from.
Last week while doing an oil change, I found oil was running down the sides of the transmission. I immediately took the truck in to the local dealership.
After two days of waiting, the serviceman called to say that I indeed had an oil leak. The leak was between the engine head and the block. The head gasket(s) were allowing oil to leak! WOW! What??
I could not believe it. Then he stated that the engine was making a 'Knocking' sound. The engine 'specialist' determined that there is internal damage to the motor and that a new motor needs to be put into my truck.
At this point (and still) I am pissed. A new truck with only 34K miles, and it needs a new motor?????? The reason (as stated by the serviceman)was that there is a design flaw with the head gasket (and the way in which the head and block come together)..... WHAT?????
I inquired about if this is an isolated problem. And the serviceman stated that there have been at least 5 or 6 trucks that have come in with similiar problems in the past month. I then inquired if there was a recall???? He stated that there were no recalls on the 5.7 liter motor, and then he started crawfishing on everything else.... He is either lying or there is more there???
Anyway, I am at least 2-3 weeks, probably more, from getting my brand new $30,000 truck back. I haven't decided what to do, but I am probably going to get rid of it ASAP..... Oh by the way, I only get a 12 month/12,000 mile warranty with the new engine.
Back to the rough idle, I did manage to get the truck to idle rough on one occasion will the mechanic and service manager in the truck. It was slight but it did give me some creditability (some I'm no mechanic I'm sure the service guys keep reminding each other). The mechanic said it felt like a spark plug or coil problem. So fix it right wrong. They took my truck for a week (see original post) and the diagnostic dude and his $30,000 machine said the rough idle was normal to ensure the truck passed emmissions and met the mpg listed (right). I told them about it idling rough to the point of stalling but not quite doing so but they can't duplicate it. I'm not too concerned because the idling thing is becoming much more frequent and it is only a matter of time before I'll be there with 'the boys' and be able to make my truck do the shake. Asked the service manager to let me drive the truck with the diagnostic machine and I'll get them all the data they need but he says "no can do, that's a $30K machine". News flash so is my truck!
Rvsv5 any work on the popcorn sounds?
Thanks
Truckowner
ANY IDEAS
Sounds like your truck is doing a lot of what my truck does but mine isn't at start up (see posts 33, 30, 27 and 25). I believe my problem is a faulty spark plug or coil. Does your sevice engine soon light turn on when you experience these problems. Mine doesn't and it is about the only thing that will get the service department moving.
MCOLE99: I also had your problem w/my truck. Solution, retighten front shocks; almost beyond specs! Problem solved!
Thanks,
Jeff
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host
Pocahontas,
Edmunds.com/Roving Host