Dodge Caliber Transmission Problems

jhknightjhknight Member Posts: 46
the CVT is slick and smooth. MOST of the time. Has anyone noticed it to be jerky when turning a corner and accelerating lightly? I have experienced jerky--ness at low speeds under certain situations. Is there a torque converter or something that locks at about 5 mph? this is when I always feel a jerk during light acceleration, 5 to 10 mph.
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Comments

  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Your right have noticed sometimes on corners at slow speeds
    that it fells like a down shift,this CVT takes some getting
    used to,I noticed yesterday on expressway that when I went up to 140 km/h to pass it seemed upshift also,strange.
    I was doing about 120 km/h when a silver Caliber RT
    blew by me at about 140-150 km/h my black SXT looks
    a lot better lol.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAMember Posts: 9,372
    Let's make this our general Caliber transmission discussion.
  • albert525albert525 Member Posts: 9
    Remember, to save gas the Caliber shuts down the engine during some cases of de-acceleration. That might be what you are experiencing?

    Remember, to save gas the Caliber shuts down the engine during some cases of de-acceleration. That might be what you are experiencing? :confuse:
    Some people think the Caliber (especially the RT) has some jerky feelings. The CVT is VERY smooth, what they are feeling is the engine shutting down to save gas; everyone these days wants better gas mileage. :D
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Yes I am aware of the fact that it goes to economy mode
    on deceleration however it can't shutdown completely or
    that would be a stall but I think your on the right track
    as it possibly goes to economy then just before it would be
    a stall the CVT goes to lowest ratio and brings fuel back
    to idle level.
    What do you think?
  • albert525albert525 Member Posts: 9
    I sent a message to Dodge, and they said that it is in economy mode all the time, and that they are not aware of the problem with it being jerky? Not sure what to say about this? Any one else have any ideas?
  • jhknightjhknight Member Posts: 46
    the problem has abated somewhat as the miles pile up. Now at 4500 miles it is hardly noticeable.
  • ilcaliberblackilcaliberblack Member Posts: 3
    I'd had my RT for just under 2500 miles and brought in to the dealership for the same problem. At first I thought the axle was loose - it was jerking that bad.

    First they reset the computer's calibration for the transmission. It became less jerky - don't know if this was in reality fine tuning or just a mask for the problem.

    However, it's still jerky. Especially on cold starts and acceleration from a complete stop - even MORE likely if it is a turning acceleration.

    Dealership has now just told me to 'ride it out.' It may be the solenoid, in the torque converter, most likely it's that the tolerance may be too tight the way the 'belt' moves through the transmission and just to put on some more miles and it will go away. To me this sounded a lot like "You cookie fish racecar niner hand" for all the sense it made.

    It's been bugging me - is he just saying this or is there some truth behind it?
  • jhknightjhknight Member Posts: 46
    I'm pushing 6000 miles now and the CVT is smooth as silk.
    that does not excuse your dealer's ignorance of the problem.
    this is why I leased my caliber as the entire powertrain is unproven and no one knows anything about it.
    If my fuel economy does not improve soon I'll be looking for a way out of my lease...
  • ilcaliberblackilcaliberblack Member Posts: 3
    They don't understand what's wrong.
    I'm getting a brand new transmission installed as I type.
  • jhknightjhknight Member Posts: 46
    iT sounds to me like you experienced a severe lurch problem?
    I now am over 7000 miles and the CVT is fine and the engine continues to run stronger all the time, but continues to be a guzzler at only 26 mpg. When new the CVT allowed the engine to rev to over 4000 rpm regularly on light to moderate acceleration giving the impression of a slipping, worn-out clutch. On the freeway it would typically run 3000 rpm or higher at 70mph.
    Now that the engine is broke in the rpm remain in the 2000 to 3000 rpm range during all but heavy acceleration up to 55 mph. In town it will rarely even touch 2000 rpm. on the freeway at 70 mph it reads around 2800 rpm. It is quite a pleasant change.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    I had the latest TSB# 18-031-07 done on my Caliber
    2.0L/CVT last Thursday when I took it in for an oil
    change at 10,000 km and I think the change is dramatic
    in the case of my car.No more lag or hesitation
    from 0 to 40 km/h,it just picks up and goes as if
    it was regular automatic.
    One thing I have noted is that the rpm at any given
    speed are about 300-400 lower while cruising,hopefully
    this will mean more mpg.
  • jaxs1jaxs1 Member Posts: 2,697
    This is why it's better to wait to buy new models.
    Is this still fixed?
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    I agree about buying new technology when buying
    cars but I have bought numerous first year models
    with minor problems and they were always resolved
    to my satisfaction.
    I don't comprehend what you refer to in"is this
    still fixed".
    If your reference is to the software update then
    it's been less than a week with it and seems to
    be fine.
  • wachaldjwachaldj Member Posts: 4
    Does anybody else have issues with Pedal Click when accelerating or deccerlating? It only clicks when the vehicle is in drive or reverse, no noise when you rev the car up in neutral or Park. My dealership has ordered me some seat bracket as their a TSB on that, but I do not feel this will fix the problem?

    any insight would be good. Thanks.
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    No issues with that in either one of my Caliber's.
  • wachaldjwachaldj Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the response. I drove it this weekend as it is my wifes car and it drives me nuts. The dealership will be seeing it before mid week.........
  • gone24nowgone24now Member Posts: 6
    YES!! I have a standard and everytime I an gearing up there is a clicking noise that is quite noticeable and getting louder. It doesn't click gearing down or into reverse. The dealer tried to do some changing of valves and the minute I drove away it didn't do a damn thing, I went back and they did nothing for me. Did they do anything for you bigtsr? Anyone else with this clicking noise? All of these problems are VERY MADENNING!!!! :(
  • gone24nowgone24now Member Posts: 6
    Two MORE problems .... I have 27,000 km on the car now, and my brake rotors are warped. I always gear down, and have never had to ride the brakes hard in order to warp them?? Anyone else seen this? Also, anyone notice a clicking sound in their manual trans. when gearing up or down?? It is a noise that is getting louder and is very noticeable. Again... dealer says "don't know"...I say fix it, they say LOOK ON THE INTERNET AND FIND HOW OTHER PEOPLE WITH THESE PROBLEMS HAVE BEEN FIXED!!!!! Nice service, eh?? :mad:
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Hi
    I have SXT 2.0L/CVT and have not had any of your
    problems to date,I only have 13,200 kilometers on
    the odometer.
    I have an excellent dealer that has todate looked
    at any of my concerns seriously and resolved them
    promptly.
    Since I had the latest flash done mpg just gets better
    and better,the car runs very quietly.
  • wachaldjwachaldj Member Posts: 4
    Took it in last week, They had no clue, even though I directed them to the heater core/blower motor area, They heard it and told me they had to contact Chrysler Engineering. Drove another New one on the lot and the same. It is an Auto with the CVT in it, and on accell, Decell, or shifting from Reverse to drive it clicks. Seems to be a bigger problem with the new models and not so much in the older model year calibers.

    Log a complaint with Chrylser so they have to put out a TSB on it. I know of 3 people that have in the last week.

    It is going to another dealership in the AM, where I know the shop forman and am hoping it will be fixed. It is not engine, or transmission related I have been guaranteed of that, and if you are careful you can actually feel it by reaching under the dash and touching the side of the housing when they click would or is occuring. Something is flexing that shoudn't be.

    It is a removable heater core that must be moving withing the housing.

    Very annoying, but other than that a Nice little car.
  • wachaldjwachaldj Member Posts: 4
    I have been told my car is fixed, have yet to pick it up. seems the issue was with the Heater core lines being to tight to the blower box assembley. Some Foam was applied and no more noise. Or so I have been told. Hopefully I can go on and enjoy the car now. If it is not fixed I'll let you know. After talking with the dealership this is not un common in these cars whether it is a manual or a cvt tranny.
  • rwdaughrwdaugh Member Posts: 1
    I can not get the shifter to move out of park
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    The first thing of course is make sure tou are depressing the brake
    pedal fully before trying to shift out of park,failing that there is an emergency
    park release access hole on the passenger side of the transmission
    hump that appears as a small round button.
    Pop out the button with a small screwdriver and once you have done this
    there is a lever you activate by simply pushing your finger in the hole
    and pulling the gearshift out of park.
    This locking solenoid is adjustable and the problem should be looked
    at by your dealer as there are several causes for it.
  • nebredsxtnebredsxt Member Posts: 8
    While driving home from work last week, a warning light came on...I immediately pulled over and checked the manual...the light was a transmission overheat light....the manual said this may occur if driving in very hot conditions, the only problem was that it was 3 below zero at the time! The light went off and I tried to make it home....I made it about 5 miles when the light came on again and the car went into limp mode. I made it the final 2 miles home and after sitting for an hour, the car ran fine...for about 20 minutes when it happened again. I had it towed to the dealer...they now tell me the CVT is toast. It cooked the fluid and components....I have 49,300 miles on my Cali and while it is out of warranty, I did buy an extended policy thru CNA. CNA is flying an inspector in to certify the transmission is toast and to ok the replacement...in the meantime I am in a rental...paid for by CNA. I will let you know what happens! :sick:
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Thank goodness you have CNA! Keep us posted
  • shmuelshmuel Member Posts: 1
    i had the same thing, can you please let me know if you notice a brown like substence
    near the coolant cap, my dealer is giving me a hard time they are saying that
    i or someone put something in the coolant, i have only 26k on it please let me know asap i will greatly appreciate
    thanks a lot
    p.s. the dealer is rockland chrysler
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    The only time I have ever seen a rusty brown discoloured substance
    was along time ago when we did not have closed over flow systems.
    If it was the result of boilover then you would have a serious problem.
    Does the temp gauge run at normal temp(about the center of gauge)?
    There is a commercial liquid rad leak repair called BARSLEAK and it is
    a rusty dark brown appearing substance.Did you buy the Caliber used?
  • 24exwadehab24exwadehab Member Posts: 3
    the exact same thing is happening to me right now. This has been a complete nightmare. I am still under warranty and also purchased the extended warranty and they will not fix my car! I have been towed 4 times now in the past 3 weeks and this last time i crawled in limp mode to the dealership where it was purchased with the light still on, but the light went out before they tested it so now they are saying yet again that they don't know what is wrong and to p/u my car or they will bill me for the rental car. I explained to them that i am driving a death trap. I travel the highway 45mins each way to get to work and if i lose power on the highway i could get killed. They said, "I hope you have good life insurance" and laughed. Can you believe the nerve. I am sooooooo upset. Who is this CNA person that people get flown in to allow the transmission to be changed. I need a phone# to contact someone that can do something. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    My 5 speed Caliber did that and the dealership didn't have a fix to offer. We ended up trading in BOTH our Calibers because we weren't happy with them.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    I can't believe anyone with any business sense would say the
    things like " I hope you have good life insurance ".
    Your only hope is to find another dealer,I know it is easy to
    say considering geography and timeframes.
    Chase your extended warranty if it's not with Chrysler and
    if it is email or letterwrite the hell out of Chrysler HO don't
    mess with the middlemen mention lemon laws and lawsuits.
  • 24exwadehab24exwadehab Member Posts: 3
    You are not going to believe this!! They said that we needed to have 3 wiring harnesses replaced. They had the car for a week and a half. I have had it back now for less than one week and the damn light came on again. I am so sick of this piece of [non-permissible content removed] car. I hate it, it is not safe. I can not even go on a family vacation with it.
  • 24exwadehab24exwadehab Member Posts: 3
    how long did you have the calibre's for when u traded them in?
    How much $$ did you lose on them?
    I am seriously considering that but i am afraid i am going to lose too much $. I've had the car it was one year this past march 22, 2007. My car was just in the service dept. for just over a week and again they said it was fixed. They replaced 3 wiring harnesses and low and behold the light just came on again and we lost power, went into limp mode. The car and the dealership are really pissing me off. I could kill right now.
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Member Posts: 402
    Little over a year and less than a year, yeah we went upside down but honestly it was worth it to feel safe and confident in my vehicle. I really wish the Caliber would have worked for me, I still want to like it but I just can't. :(
  • duartemduartem Member Posts: 3
    I have an 08 dodge caliber with 5 speed manual transmission. My car only has 15,000 km and I also have problems with the transmission as well. In the morning, when I start the car after 2-3 minutes the transmission makes a rattling sound. When I press the clutch pedal the noise disappears (when I release the clutch, the noise returns.)
    I took the car to the dealership and they called an engineer. He told me "ALL" calibers make this noise, some more then others. So I told him if Chrysler are still making brand new cars with a rattling noise in the transmission next time I will buy another brand name. Chrysler and the dealership are still refusing to fix my transmission. :sick:
  • jessica_c09jessica_c09 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Caliber SXT. I purchased it in early Feb. and now have right at 8000 miles on it.

    It's fine on the highway (with the exception of an insane amount of highway noise), but driving it in town is embarrassing. The engine is extremely loud...my rear end vibrates when I am sitting at a stop light. The WORST thing about it is that every time I slow down, turn a corner, pull in to a parking spot, I get this weird noise. I think it sounds like something creaking, but my husband swears that it's something grinding. It's pretty loud, and happens every time I drive the car - but only when I'm driving at a slow speed or preparing to stop/start. It generally makes the car "jump" just a little. Has anyone else heard this noise with their Calibers? Any suggestions? It's been doing this since right after we purchased it, but it has gotten pretty severe over the last 3000 miles. It happens every time I drive it, without fail.

    I've also noticed that sometimes it doesn't want to start. That is REALLY embarrassing. I paid 19,000 for a car that won't start half the time? It usually only chokes once and then it will start, but still...that's extremely annoying.

    Any thoughts? Should I take it in to the dealership or is that just part of owning a Caliber and I'm just going to have to deal with it?
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Hi jessica c09 sorry to hear your having problems with your Caliber.
    First thing I have to ask is have you been back to the dealer?
    You should rally push them as you have a warranty so take
    advantage of it,if you feel that particular dealer is not addressing
    your concerns or treating you as some do when it comes to
    women owners find another one they MUST honor your warranty
    no matter if you bought from then or not.
    Hiway noise is directly linked to the tires,if you notice when you drive
    on relatively new asphalt things quiet down considerably.
    Vibrations while stopped may be a exhuast pipe alignment
    problem and it's rubbing or touching the body while under tension.
    Creaking or grinding at slow speeds could be brakes or steering
    mechanism.
    You didn't indicate if you have a CVT(automatic) or standard shift
    but if you have the CVT the car does have a slight jump or funny
    feeling at abt 20 mph,that's the transmission and that is normal.
    I have a SXT also and have had no problems in 2 yrs of ownership,
    I admit the CVT tranny does take some time to feel right.
    I would take it to the dealership with a written list of concerns
    and if they try to fluff you off find another plus call Chrysler
    customer service and register your concerns.
  • crazysonny22crazysonny22 Member Posts: 1
    I purchase my caliber in march of this year. its 4cy 2.0L with auto trans. i have currently a little bit under 7000miles and i been expreince some jerking when i let off the gas pedal. the dealership where i live said that its suppose to do that because slows the car down when deacceration. Right now i am not having any problems with my car. i did pay the extended warranty. My car does not have any extras in it ( no power windows,power lock, criues control) nothing like that. I had car that was 10 yrs old and none of the windows would rolls down and you had to opem the locks maunlly . that is why i bought a car with no extras, because i do not plan on selling this car anytime soon. i do not know if having all the extras in having something to do with, but it should not. i have been around cars since i was kid.
  • eagles2006eagles2006 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2007 Dodge Caliber and have had my automatic transmission replaced at 32,000km's do to stalling issues. The weird thing to this is i looked at the work order and i noticed it had said the transmission fluid was burnt. With reading that it kinda got to me if these tranny's are even good lol. Well the dealer replaced it and not even two days after that i was driving home and the cooling line on the new tranny blew. And i had the car towed back in. What i am getting at is i had my car since oct 2006 and had it in 40 times for warranty work. Including a new water pump too.

    Stuff i have noticed and still taking it in for are:

    - Jerkiness in the tranny when letting the gas pedal go and resuming.
    - Door panels are coming loose and rattle in back right after having no bass applied
    - Front two rotors warped. (they want to charge me for diagnose on this i have a 7 year / 160,000 warranty lol ) vibration in steering wheel when braking.
    - back drums are sticking when you let go and apply bracks (dealership tighten them when i was in one time before)
    - getting a hollow and loose noise from front end when going over minor bumps (keep saying they can't find problem)
    - power steering pump loud sometimes
    - both front doors window motors being replaced.
    - just had front left tie rod replaced recently.
    - two front speakers being replaced.

    The warranty work on my car seems endless lol.......
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Wow certainly sounds like you got the pick of the litter!
    I can't say that I have had any of those concerns come up
    and I am at almost 30,000km the car has only been back
    to dealer for free oil/filter changes and 1 computer update
    at my request.
    Good luck!
  • dodgeman6dodgeman6 Member Posts: 42
    Boy are you thinking to get out of that car early. I bought a 2006 Caliber R/T and if you look for the subject Dodge Caliber with cupping and alignment problems you will see that I DUMPED my car and bought a used Pontiac Grand Prix GT. Now I am driving a real solid car!! the CVT will not be the only problems that you will be dealing with. Read as much as you can about the Caliber problems in other posts as you will be convinced to get out of your lease asap. Don't run....walk. ;)
  • deboraht10deboraht10 Member Posts: 1
    i had my car for less than 30000 miles and the shifter refused to come out of park it was shift sensor. the dealer took 5 days to fix and would not get me a rental car although it was a warranty issue with the car. It was less than a month later it left me again same issue although by the time it was towed to the dealer for same problem dealer stated there was nothing wrong with the car it was working fine. Now at 75,000 miles the transmission overheating light keeps coming on and a throttle sensor light and the car will refuse to start once engine has heated up. This car has been nothing but trouble. I warn everyone who has stated an interest in this car not to buy one. I even talked to the corporate office about exchanging this car for a different one back at 30,000 miles and they refused to even discuss the problem. Dodge sucks when it comes to customer service. My exact comments would need to be sensored when it comes to this vehicle. :mad:
  • arnienarnien Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2008 Caliber with a CVT tranny. The tranny seems to search for the right gear when driving at a steady speed in town.When I mentioned that to the service manager at the 5 star dealership where I work, he commented that it was a go kart transmission.

    I can assure you that this car with a CVT tranny is not for mountain driving. Recently, we drove up Pikes Peak, at the gate where I paid, the Park Ranger inquired if I knew how to use the plus and minus on the gearshift, I assured her I did, she stated I should use 1st on the way down. As I left the parking lot at the peak, I got into 1st gear while still on the level. 1st gear will not hold the car back enough, I had to use my brakes way too much. At this point, I should mention that I have driven several vehicles on that road, and have made 8-10 trips, so I have a very good understanding about overheated brakes and driving in a lower gear on mountain roads. About half way down, everyone gets to stop to have the brake temp checked, I was just barely low enough, temp wise, but was so close the Ranger made a phone call to double check. In 1st, the car will speed up while coasting, instead of the other way around.
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Very interesting results on an extreme gradient which is also
    very long.
    I don't doubt the veracity of your statements as I have never driven
    Pikes Peak at all.
    If you look at my location on a map you would doubt that we have
    any concerns regarding such driving however we have quite a number
    of 4-6% grade of from 1-2 miles in length.I have found on 2 of the 6%
    I leave it in Drive and set the cruise for 40 kph/25 mph and the car
    will brake against the engine while it gains no more than 4-6 mph.
    You can watch the tach and see the rpms go up as the engine is braking
    the car,I have never tried putting in Low while doing this however.
  • defallerdefaller Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber with 34,000 mile.
    My car died and my transmission was no good. It was replaced with a new transmission and as I drove the car out of the dealer repair shop it would not go more that 5 miles per hour. I drove it right back and they said they fixed it. The next time I drove it away I got about 2 miles when the car died again. It was towed back and they said that the new transmission was no good . They then put in a second new one. That one lasted 3 days and it died again. Has anyone had any luck with the lemon law? I have only had the car for for 1 and a 1/2 year
  • Redneckgirl14Redneckgirl14 Member Posts: 1
    :mad: :lemon: I bought my USED 2007 Caliber with approx. 38,500 miles on September11,2008.
    January 25,2009 juu\st 41/2 months and milage at 42,500. the Transmission is a gonner. I can't believe it ... )o: NOT sure yet what the dealer is going to so but, It does NOT look good. I will be contacting the local BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU if they do NOT replace the transmission. My suggestion is that the MORE people that do this the better. Dodge needs to learn to make better cars. This is a potential safety issue. Well, PLEASE e-mail me with a respone if you can or wish.
    [email protected]
  • carrera997carrera997 Member Posts: 1
    I had an opportuinity to rent a Caliber for about 1 month....gotta tell you it was a very interesting experience. I have never "posted" a message on a blog, or message center, however, i thought it was important enough in this case to hopefully help steer folks away from considering or should I say even thinking about buying a Caliber. I am a major car guy....since the age of 15....now 48. This car is junk, and in my opinion not even safe for use on public roads.
    I,m not sure where to start....the lovely tranny, that sounds like a gremlin resides deep in it's belly, or the car's inability to either catch up to traffic when entering a highway, or it's issue with shaking upon throttle lift before braking.Whoever signed off on this mechanical design needs to either resign, or take a brush up course on product development as this one leaves an awful lot to be desired, and my heart goes out to anyone who has paid hard earned money for this mess on wheels.Maybe this is another reason that Chrysler is taking on water at a rapid rate.....
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    Well too bad you had an unhappy experience with POS rental.
    It left a bad taste in your mouth however my personal experience
    has been the opposite after 2-1/2 yrs of ownership.
    My 2.0L/CVT has only been back to the dealer for my lifetime
    free oil/filter changes and 1 software update.I have driven it as if
    I stole it from day one and it gets 26-28 mpg US/city and as high
    as 34 mpg US/hiway.I would say for 2L that it accelerates extremely
    well on any occasion I have needed it to.
    Again any experience with a rental would not lead me to condemn
    any product out of hand.
  • jagz1jagz1 Member Posts: 1
    hi i am also a owner of a 2007 caliber and am having many of the problems you all are ive had it to two dodge certified mechanics and they have tried to fix it the last mechanic thought maybe we should just put in a new transmission my problem with that is it was a new transmission when i bought it so whos to say that its not gonna have the same problem down the road i dont know about u guys but i dont have money to keep putting into this car i did google class action lawsuit dodge caliber and got a couple of websites one was a lemon law lawyer who will review your case for free ive tried getting some answers from dodge but that was leading nowhere so im gonna be a pain in there side till something is done
  • bigtsrbigtsr Member Posts: 149
    What have been or are your problems?
    Possibilty someone who is forum member has been there done that!
    You may get help if you explain.
  • bigracks8bigracks8 Member Posts: 1
    The Dodge Caliber that we just recently purchased has been making a howling noise whenever we back it out of the garage and apply the brakes. It only does it when we let it sit overnight, when the car is in reverse, and only when we apply the brakes.
    I thought that it was the brakes, until I popped it into nuetral while it was still moving back and I was still applying the brakes the howling stopped.
    I don't understand the transmission in this thing, but I wonder if there is some sort of braking going on in the thing that could be making the noise.
    I contacted the dealer and they said that it was normal but they wouldn't tell me what it was. Maybe it's time to contact a different dealer.
    I'm just throwing this out there to see if any you out there have had the same problem or any advice for me on what to do.
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