Now that it is freezing in NY , I noticed that my cold tire pressure was 30-31 , so I added air till 35 . However , during driving , when the tires get warm , the pressure goes up to 37-39 . Should I keep it under inflated , so that it is normal when hot , or keep it inflated at 35 , and ignore the fact that the pressure rises to 37-39 when hot .
Always check tires cold and set the pressure to 35psi. Do not underinflate, the manufacturer has allowed for heat inflation.
From the owners manual: How to Check Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km). Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem. Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire inflation pressure matches the recommended pressure on the Tire and Loading Information label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach the recommended amount. If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on the metal stem in the center of the tire valve. Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage. Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
Thanks a lot for the info . My concern was that when the weather was warm the cold tire pressure was fine , but the pressure got lower because of the outside temperature getting cold . I guess that during warm days when my cold tire is at 35 , the pressure also increases a lot too while I am driving . Thanks again .
I am shopping for a used CTS DI. Is there any way to tell a CTS is non-DI or DI? There are a lot of used CTS advertised in our local market but I am not sure if the salesman really know wether a particular car is DI or not. I would like to have an independent way of verifying the engine..
I've been wanting to install a set of bracketless all-season wipers(i.e. Bosch Icons or Valeo) on my 08 CTS, but can't seem to find a web site that sells them for my car. Can the CTS only use the factory wipers?
I have experienced this also. That is a perfect description of the noise that I hear around 40 mph. I just bought an 09 CTS V6 DI and it's perfect except for this odd noise/vibration around 40 mph. If I shift into the sport mode and downshift, it goes away. At first I thought maybe it was a tire balance issue, but I am now thinking it must be a drive shaft issue. I will continue to monitor Cadillac bulletins to see if anything comes out. Until then I guess I'll have to go slow or fast.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern: Some customers may comment of a boom, moan or vibration during light acceleration which phases in and out in intensity.
The condition may be most noticeable at about 50 mph (80 kph), or 1200 - 1300 rpm, and occurs over a speed range of 3 to 5 mph (5 to 8 kph). This condition can be caused by the rear axle assembly responding to frequencies generated by the transmission when the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is engaged.
Recommendation/Instructions: Perform the procedure in SI Document ID 1578733: "Vibration Analysis - Road Testing". This condition can be identified as a third-order engine disturbance by using the J 38792-A, Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) 2. Verify the concern by duplicating the condition and then commanding the TCC off with the Tech 2. If the condition is verified, it may be reduced or eliminated by indexing the propshaft. Ensure that the rear axle damper is in place and not grounded out.
If the damper is in place and indexing the prop shaft does not eliminate the concern do not attempt any further repairs at this time. Engineering is aware of this concern and is developing a repair at this time. Further repair information will be available when a procedure is developed and verified.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. ###
now with all this said..supposedly there is another PIP out stating GM is aware of the problem and working a fix...and to not attempt any repairs..but no one has seen it yet?
I love my 08 CTS w/AWD, but it just doesn't seem to like snow. I came down a hill sideways the other night and everyone was trying to get out of my way. The 12,000 miles tires are original, but some have said I need to purchase better tires. Has anyone else had this problem and, if so, what did you do? I love this car, but am ready to get rid of it if I can't get better traction.
About once every couple of months my CTS has automatically locked its doors. Each time I have noticed this has been in the garage. Well, the other day I was standing by the car as my wife pushed the garage door open button and I saw the doors lock. Periodically there must be a frequency interference.
I have RWD. I took it into the dealer today and they said that they have attempted several, but have not had much luck. We'll see what happens with mine. I'm hopeful, but expecting it not to work. They just keep saying that Cadillac is aware and working on a fix. I just wish it would be quicker.
I hope this is good news. Although the dealer said they couldn't do anything, and I already have picked up my car, there seems to be a new bulletin out as of yesterday to address the vibration problem. It is #08-07-30-044A: Phasing Drone, Boom, Moan or Vibration at 80 km/h (50 mph) or 1000-1300 RPM with Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Engaged (Reprogram TCM and Install Insulator Washers [On Vehicles Built Without Washers]) - (Feb 11, 2009). Apparently the insulator washers were part of the later built cars. They have to be added for VIN prior to 90159377, which mine is. I have a 2009, but I think it was one of the first built ones. I plan on having this done when I go back the next time. Until then, I'll keep my fingers crossed.
By coincidence, I was scheduled to bring my '08 CTS in this morning for several electronic gremlins that are keeping me company. I provided the rep with the bulletin number you provided in your post. He punched it in and replied that no such bulletin number exists in the GM network (I stood next to him, thus could see his computer monitor as he did it).
Are you sure the bulletin number you cite above is accurate?
That's interesting, I called my dealer today and gave him the same bulletin number and he was able to track it down. He said that there are two insulating washers that they need to order which is exactly what the bulletin says. I have double checked the bulletin number and it is correct. There is a document ID listed too. I don't know if that will help, but it is Document ID: 2233290. Here is the bulletin again, I have cut and pasted the following straight from the bulletin: #08-07-30-044A: Phasing Drone, Boom, Moan or Vibration at 80 km/h (50 mph) or 1000-1300 RPM with Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Engaged (Reprogram TCM and Install Insulator Washers [On Vehicles Built Without Washers]) - (Feb 11, 2009)
This bulletin is being revised to update model years and add insulator washers (only for vehicles built without washers). Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-07-30-044 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a drone, boom, moan or vibration during light acceleration which phases in and out in intensity. The condition may be most noticeable at about 80 km/h (50 mph), or 1000 - 1300 engine RPM, and occurs over a speed range of 5 to 8 km/h (3 to 5 mph).
Cause
This condition may be caused by the rear axle assembly responding to engine firing frequencies passed through the driveline when the torque converter clutch (TCC) is engaged.
Correction
For All Vehicles -- Calibration Update This condition can be verified by driving the vehicle to duplicate the concern and using the Tech 2® to turn off the TCC. If the noise stops when the TCC is turned off, the calibration detailed below should help to eliminate the noise or vibration. Important: • This calibration may result in decreased fuel economy up to approximately one mpg/kpg. Because of this, the software should not be used in a vehicle without this concern. • There are two calibration part numbers that are "selectable" for this controller. Read the description to determine the correct calibration for this condition. • DO NOT replace rear drive axle or propshaft for this concern. A revised calibration has been developed to correct this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the transmission control module (TCM) using SPS with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI. As always make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version. For Vehicles Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 90159377 - Install Insulator Washers After Reprogramming 1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI. 2. Place a transmission jack stand under the rear differential assembly.
3. Remove the two front differential mounting bolts
4. Install the rubber insulators (2), GM P/N 20827776, between the rear drive axle and the body 5. Install the rear differential mounting bolt. Tighten Tighten the rear differential mounting bolt (1) to 220 N•m(162 lb ft). 6. Remove the transmission jack stand. 7. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty 20827776 INSULATOR ASM - DIFF CARR 2
I habe an 08 cts major electrical problems been at the dealer now for 23 days, got back car shut down while driving, again im told it will be a while we have alot of issues with the cts, anyone else having issues :lemon: :sick: :mad: :mad: :mad:
So far I have not had a problem. Just passed 9,000 miles. This sounds like a computer problem. If not resolved quickly, I would call GM service and complain.
I finally had to let it go. Good bye CTS4 DI. I could not take another day of warranty work for a car that has so much promise. When the service report told me that I had to have XM radio hooked up and OnStar hooked up to make my voice recognition work, when they were hooked up, I had to put my hands up. I found out after 3 trips to service, the factory never hooked up the wiring for the voice rec. Then after 4 trips for my sunroof, and having to go back for another, I could not go there any longer. Our DTS has had only one problem and after 60k, our HUMMER was faultless (until it was totaled but replaced with the same). Say hello to GLK 4-matic. Quiet, better seating, same price, no blind spots, dead pedal in the correct spot, no scraping of the front air dam, better sound system, more storage, better bluetooth, altimeter, cornering lamps, better mileage (although on 91). The nav is not as intuitive, but the Teleaid vs OnStar has more features, like the Save and Send. The GLK is not as pretty to look at, although cute. I feel there is better out there right now for the same amount of money as the CTS. Your decision. Also, I bought one of the first CTS4's out. I took a major depreciation hit, not just because of the 20k miles, but because GM's employee pricing, plus plus plus.....and filling up rental cars one after another because the service department could not get it right, well, gave me the excuse to finally go un-American. Right now, it's worth it. I hope Mercedes can get it right and keep it that way. And,,,,,,, no way will I ever go Japanese....
pls come back in 6-8 months and let us know how the GLK is doing.....isnt that model an SUV?????
my only turn off to MB is their required 10K or 12 month service interval which must be performed by an authorized MB dealer....and the associated high costs....a normal oil change was well over $100 in my area by a 'authorized" MB maintenance facility........
I know the argue that anyone can do an oil change as long as the use the right spec stuff.....but I dont give a dealer anything to complain about me not meeting OEM specs when I still have a warranty in effect.....just my opinion
I certainly dont blame you for getting out of the CTS....first MY cars can also be a gamble.......
I have a 2008 Black CTS that is almost perfect. It is 9 months old but has one small irritant that drives me "around the bend." It has a slight vibration in the real package shelf when going over small bumps or expansions joints etc. while at speeds slower than 35 mph. Either the shelf itself is loose or there is something hitting the underside. I understand that there is a TSB that deals with this issue but I am unable locate anywhere on the web that lists the TSBs let alone show one what they actually say. I am told that the number is 09-08-44-003. Is there anyone out there that can tell me where to find this information or who can provide it for me? Your help will be sincerely appreciated. I am off the the dealer next week for their third attempt at this issue and want to be armed properly. Thanks again!
I have been driving for 50 years, and I have never heard that term. To what are you referring?
Many vehicle noises seem to come from a specific location when they are actually being transferred from a different location. For instance, my 2009 CTS seemed to have a light tapping in the left rear door at speeds lower than 35 mph. I found it myself. The battery cable was vibrating against some plastic in its enclosure. I put a small piece of foam weather stripping on the plastic where the cable was touching. Voila! Problem solved.
I think he meant REAR package shelf, the area under the rear window and behind the rear seat.
This area should NEVER be used to store anything as in a quick stop, such as an accident, anything on this shelf will become a missile aimed at the back of everyone's head.
Most likely it's actually the speakers in the rear deck that are vibrating. Oh, and I second this - maybe a cloth to keep the sun from fading it, but stuff never goes there - it blocks your view and will hit you in an accident.
As indicated, I mean the REAR shelf. Sometimes my fat fingers get the best of me when typing and in this case spell check did not help. In any event, I have determined that it is not the rear speaker. It is either the shelf of something under it that makes the noise. I have tried to fix it myself without success.
Does anyone have a handle of the TSB I mentioned earlier. #090844003? Or does anyone know of a source that has this information? Thanks!
I have the same problem. I took the car in and they replaced the rear shelf as well. I still have a problem with the vibration sound. To me it sound like the speaker and subwoofer vibrate and then transfer the sound to the cabin. I figure I will bring the car to another cadillac dealership to see if they can figure it out.
I have have my CTS for about 6 months. Currently 7K on the car. After about 700 miles my front brakes would squeek as if the metal was hitting metal. The dealership said that it is normal for these high performance breaks to do that; although they could stop the brakes from squeeking by doing a service for $99 on them. Has anyone else had this problem?? By the way I told them to stick the service.
I have a new CTS that I have had for three months. I have 2,500 miles. I have no squeaking; the brakes are quiet. That special service should be warranty and would be at some Cadillac dealers. They would just have to write it up in a certain way. I am sure my dealer in Nashville would take care of that for me. That is just not normal.
Does anyone know how the 08 CTS with RWD handles in the snow? I live in Michigan and am considering buying a 2008 Cadillac CTS with RWD, but I was warned it would handle terrible. Any input would be great.
I have a 2008 CTS with AWD and DI. In CT. we had one of the severest winters with plenty of snow and my CTS did very well in the snow and ice. With any vehicle you still have to drive safe.
My check engine light came on at 12,500 miles . I tried filling the car up with gas three times to see if it would go away, but id did not . Took it to the dealer . I need a new timing chain. It will take two weeks to get the part . I was told that it is a common problem. Several cars ahead of me are waiting for the part. Did this happen to any one else? Will it reduce my horse power? I have the DI engine , RWD.
When I play a CD for a while , I hear a hum, which I think comes from the CD spinning in the radio housing . Wind noise obliterates it , but in stop and go traffic, I hear it . Any one else hears this?
I have heard this also. I'm puzzled why it sometimes makes a noise, but sometimes it doesn't. Before I got my CTS, I had a Buick Enclave and the CD player in that would sometimes make a similar noise. It always stopped when I ejected the disc.
A new timing chain at 12,500 miles???...and with a few folks ahead of you???...wouldn't this be a major design flaw in the bulletproof CTS???...can't GM do ANYTHING right???
I guess you could say the same thing about Toyota when they brought out their big truck and had problems with the whole engine blowing up or now they are buying back some of those big trucks because the frame has rusted so bad to make them unsafe on the road. I can see a bad timing belt once in a while but frames rusting out. Come on that plain sucks with stupidity. :lemon: :lemon:
Another A frame leak from the sunroof. The headliner is dripping and the water is pouring out the bottom of the dashboard. we know its made like crap but they cant even fix it on the third try. Im so glad this 49G lease will be going back. No wonder they face bankruptcy. Buy foreign
I see your point...but you mentioned timing belt, the first poster said timing chain...I guess I see chains as sturdier than belts...but I do not know what the engine actually has...
sounds like the drain is plugged or the hose pulled lose and it also sounds liike you need to find a dealer that knows how to fix things right the first time.
I think may have been a slip of the keyboard on my part but timing chain or belt they both preform the same function and shouldn't distract from the meaning of my post.
I realize what you meant...what I meant was that I can see how a rubber belt might break a lot easier than I can understand a chain breaking...but, I guess, one bad link...if you will, the weakest link and the chain breaks...
I would simply suppose that a belt would fail faster than a chain...but if something is defective, it could be made of titanium and it would not matter...
Comments
http://www.gmbuypower.com/ws/nvlWindowSticker.vs?make=ca&makeDescrip=Cadillac&st- yle=3.6l%20v6%20rwd&makeId=006&vehicleModel=/images/gmbp/12006/vehicle/2009/med/- 200954.gif&year=2009&sellingSource=12&subModel=&subModelId=54&BAC=132763&modelId- =025&pvc=5162&mmc=6DM69&modelDesignator=6DM69&brand=CTS&model=CTS&type=1SA&typeD- escrip=1SA&styleDescrip=3.6l%20v6%20rwd&styleId=3.6l%20v6%20rwd&partnerID=900001- &userType=GMBP&searchType=4&VIN=1G6DN57P590150527&iPi=5&fPi=5&dPath=FRDP&linksIn- CCT=true&zip=34788&dealerName=PLAZA%20CADILLAC&dealerURL=http://www.plazacadilla- c.com/en_US/HomePage&distance=0.0&dealerStreet=8893%20US%20HWY%20441&dealerCity=- LEESBURG&dealerRegionCode=FL&dealerPostalcode=34788-4023&dealerBpManagerName=Ton- y%20Pagano&dealerBpPhone=(352)%20787-1323&nameplateids=006®ionid=30
I got 304 HP now....she's plenty fast I just dont see the value VS the added expense. BUT...Great car I agree!
From the owners manual:
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket-type gage to check
tire pressure. You cannot tell if your tires are
properly inflated simply by looking at them.
Radial tires may look properly inflated even when
they are underinflated. Check the tire’s inflation
pressure when the tires are cold. Cold means your
vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours
or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
Remove the valve cap from the tire valve stem.
Press the tire gage firmly onto the valve to
get a pressure measurement. If the cold tire
inflation pressure matches the recommended
pressure on the Tire and Loading Information
label, no further adjustment is necessary. If the
inflation pressure is low, add air until you reach
the recommended amount.
If you overfill the tire, release air by pushing on
the metal stem in the center of the tire valve.
Re-check the tire pressure with the tire gage.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve
stems. They help prevent leaks by keeping out
dirt and moisture.
Icon
look at this bulletin:
#PIP4435B: Phasing Drone Moan Or Vibration At approximately 50MPH Or 1200-1300 RPM - keywords accelerate light throttle - (Sep 5, 2008)
Subject: Phasing Drone, Moan, or Vibration at Approximately 50 MPH or 1200-1300 RPM
Models: 2008-2009 Cadillac CTS
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -
This PI was superseded to update model years and EVA diagnostics. Please discard PIP4435A.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment of a boom, moan or vibration during light acceleration which phases in and out in intensity.
The condition may be most noticeable at about 50 mph (80 kph), or 1200 - 1300 rpm, and occurs over a speed range of 3 to 5 mph (5 to 8 kph). This condition can be caused by the rear axle assembly responding to frequencies generated by the transmission when the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is engaged.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Perform the procedure in SI Document ID 1578733: "Vibration Analysis - Road Testing". This condition can be identified as a third-order engine disturbance by using the J 38792-A, Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) 2. Verify the concern by duplicating the condition and then commanding the TCC off with the Tech 2. If the condition is verified, it may be reduced or eliminated by indexing the propshaft. Ensure that the rear axle damper is in place and not grounded out.
If the damper is in place and indexing the prop shaft does not eliminate the concern do not attempt any further repairs at this time. Engineering is aware of this concern and is developing a repair at this time. Further repair information will be available when a procedure is developed and verified.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
###
now with all this said..supposedly there is another PIP out stating GM is aware of the problem and working a fix...and to not attempt any repairs..but no one has seen it yet?
Problem solved.
Are you sure the bulletin number you cite above is accurate?
Thanks.
Engaged (Reprogram TCM and Install Insulator Washers [On Vehicles Built Without Washers]) - (Feb 11, 2009)
This bulletin is being revised to update model years and add insulator washers (only for vehicles built without washers). Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-07-30-044 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a drone, boom, moan or vibration during light acceleration which phases in and out in intensity.
The condition may be most noticeable at about 80 km/h (50 mph), or 1000 - 1300 engine RPM, and occurs over a speed range of 5 to 8 km/h (3 to 5 mph).
Cause
This condition may be caused by the rear axle assembly responding to engine firing frequencies passed through the driveline when the torque converter clutch (TCC) is engaged.
Correction
For All Vehicles -- Calibration Update
This condition can be verified by driving the vehicle to duplicate the concern and using the Tech 2® to turn off the TCC. If the noise stops when the TCC is turned off, the calibration detailed below should help to eliminate the noise or vibration.
Important:
• This calibration may result in decreased fuel economy up to approximately one mpg/kpg. Because of this, the software should not be used in a vehicle without this concern.
• There are two calibration part numbers that are "selectable" for this controller. Read the description to determine the correct calibration for this condition.
• DO NOT replace rear drive axle or propshaft for this concern.
A revised calibration has been developed to correct this condition. Technicians are to reprogram the transmission control module (TCM) using SPS with the latest software available on TIS2WEB. Refer to the Service Programming System (SPS) procedures in SI. As always make sure your Tech 2® is updated with the latest software version.
For Vehicles Built Prior to VIN Breakpoint 90159377 - Install Insulator Washers After Reprogramming
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.
2. Place a transmission jack stand under the rear differential assembly.
3. Remove the two front differential mounting bolts
4. Install the rubber insulators (2), GM P/N 20827776, between the rear drive axle and the body
5. Install the rear differential mounting bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the rear differential mounting bolt (1) to 220 N•m(162 lb ft).
6. Remove the transmission jack stand.
7. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
20827776 INSULATOR ASM - DIFF CARR 2
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K9532* Transmission Control Module Transmission Reprogramming with SPS 0.4 hr
Add Install Rubber Insulators in Rear Differential 0.3 hr
*This is a unique labor operation for bulletin use only. It will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© 2009 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
The GLK is not as pretty to look at, although cute.
I feel there is better out there right now for the same amount of money as the CTS. Your decision.
Also, I bought one of the first CTS4's out. I took a major depreciation hit, not just because of the 20k miles, but because GM's employee pricing, plus plus plus.....and filling up rental cars one after another because the service department could not get it right, well, gave me the excuse to finally go un-American. Right now, it's worth it. I hope Mercedes can get it right and keep it that way. And,,,,,,, no way will I ever go Japanese....
Happy Trails
my only turn off to MB is their required 10K or 12 month service interval which must be performed by an authorized MB dealer....and the associated high costs....a normal oil change was well over $100 in my area by a 'authorized" MB maintenance facility........
I know the argue that anyone can do an oil change as long as the use the right spec stuff.....but I dont give a dealer anything to complain about me not meeting OEM specs when I still have a warranty in effect.....just my opinion
I certainly dont blame you for getting out of the CTS....first MY cars can also be a gamble.......
I have been driving for 50 years, and I have never heard that term. To what are you referring?
Many vehicle noises seem to come from a specific location when they are actually being transferred from a different location. For instance, my 2009 CTS seemed to have a light tapping in the left rear door at speeds lower than 35 mph. I found it myself. The battery cable was vibrating against some plastic in its enclosure. I put a small piece of foam weather stripping on the plastic where the cable was touching. Voila! Problem solved.
This area should NEVER be used to store anything as in a quick stop, such as an accident, anything on this shelf will become a missile aimed at the back of everyone's head.
All the dealer's problem though.
J
Does anyone have a handle of the TSB I mentioned earlier. #090844003? Or does anyone know of a source that has this information? Thanks!
With any vehicle you still have to drive safe.
My daughter has my 2004 CTS with RWD and lives in CT. She has been driving the car for 2 winters.
I would simply suppose that a belt would fail faster than a chain...but if something is defective, it could be made of titanium and it would not matter...