Chevy Tracker Starting and Stalling Problems

records1981records1981 Member Posts: 1
I was wondering if you guys know what would be the reason why my chevy tracker 1999 turns off everytime I put the AC on? Thanks


  • nochevynochevy Member Posts: 8
    I also have a 1999 Chevy Tracker with the same problem! Please let me know if you have found the answer to this problem.
  • cfaurecfaure Member Posts: 4
    I recently bought a Chevy Tracker 2000, 2.0L, automatic. I had to change the engine and found a 1999. It was changed and now it won't start. My mechanich checked everything and he can't find the problem. It could be a security problem? He checked the sensors and they seem ok. Electricity won't go to the engine. Please help!
  • tim54tim54 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Tracker with 150,000 miles on it. In the last 2 months it has begun to stall and will not start when it is hot outside and the engine gets warmed up. If I let it set for approximately a half hour, then it generally starts again. Anyone else have this problem. My garage mechanic has no idea. I have replaced the catilytic converter and some other engine pieces with no luck. One guy who walked by my car when I was trying to start it said it sounded like the fuel pump to him. Any HELP!!!!! would be greatly appreciated, as I can't drive it now. I have had to have it towed 3 times in the last month. Thanks
  • trackerdontrackerdon Member Posts: 4
    Mine is doing the same thing if you can pour a 20 oz bottle of water over the camshaft positioning sensor to cool it down. Then get in and start it up. I have already replace the sensor but my mechanic will get me another one because it still stalls out until I pour the water over it again. He thinks it was a bad replacement part. Hope this helps.
  • notwalkingnotwalking Member Posts: 5
    I had the same problem, I replaced the cam postion sensor and the Tracker runs great. Thank you for the info. :)
  • acarriganacarrigan Member Posts: 4
    Have a 2003 Chev Tracker and I melted the plastic housing (don't ask how) on both the headlamp covers. I need replacements, but boy are they pricy. Any suggestions on sources for replacement headlamps? The Suzuki, same year, looks totally different, so thats not an option.
    While I'm at it...any ideas on how to turn off the DRL's so I won't melt the headlamps again?
    Okay, I'll tell. I strapped the kayaks on the roof down from the bow over the headlamps to the front tow hook. The foam I was using to "protect" the headlamps from the straps melted into the lamps and left a gaping hole on each one.
  • allesfixerallesfixer Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 2WD Chevy (Geo, Suzuki !)w/ 105 k miles.

    Twice now in 2 years the engine has totally died. All other electrics were OK ( lights starter etc.) No "check engine" light. Starter would crank normally, but no start.
    Since the car has a vibration at freeway speeds I checked those relays that I could find ( not quite sure why so many relays when a switch would do). No go. Tried again, started right up and ran the 1000 miles to home.

    Now a year later same problem. Did the relay game again. No go. Since I was only a mile from home I had AAA tow it.
    With manual in hand I located another flock of relays cleverly located high up on the left kick panel above the cabin fuse panel (there's more fuses in the engine compartment). Shook, removed/replaced ALL. No go. Jumpered the fuel pump relay (sub'd a wire for the make/break contacts). No go. Cussed. A lot.

    Two months later I was listening to the radio in the car ( I have comments on removable stereo faces too !) and just by chance cranked the engine. Fired right up !
    One of my manuals ( I have Haynes & the 2 volume factory book ) mentioned, ever so casually, "intermittent fuel pump, likely a poor ground".
    Before I drop the tank and preemptively replace the fuel pump, as well the too small wire (read, minimum needed !), has anyone met and cured this problem ?

    Since my Cherokee blew a head gasket I need the Tracker !

    Thanks, Tom

    PS; Just went for the smog test. Test codes erased due to battery disconnect (that 2 months must be it !). Was told to do “at least 100 miles” on the freeway to reset the computer. That in a car I’m afraid to drive at all ! I have visions of an 18 wheeler bearing down on me when the engine conks out !
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye Member Posts: 473
    i wonder if the melting of the housing is not a cause of teh DRL but a cause of too high wattage bulbs?
  • ipaqnmeipaqnme Member Posts: 2
    Well I loooove my baby, It has 107k miles on it. I only had one problem when the gear shift chain broke. That cost $58. I have always maintained according to the dealer standards.
    I want to invest a few bucks in it this year so any ideas of what I need to prioritize I would love to know.
    This is my last car purchase and I want to keep it in immaculate condition. I am 57 and have so many other things I need to do with my money than buy a new car...TRAVELLLL!!!image
    I am retired so the luxury cars have come and gone. Decided to make a practical purchase in '99 that would be inexpensive to maintain.

    So any thoughts please please let me know.......
  • allesfixerallesfixer Member Posts: 2
    Hi I've got to say Best of Luck, but I'm not sure ANY contemporary car has affordable repairs.

    The prior owner of my Tracker had the heater core replaced 3 years ago - and it just started leaking again. Her cost was $800 - that's $300 core (outrageous !) PLUS $500 labor. I'm doing it myself, so believe me, I understand the labor cost. NOTHING is built for maintenance since the designers think mechanics are, at best, monkeys.

    I replaced 3 very minor emissions parts on my wife's Corolla. $372 for parts that were so minor in size & complexity that $100 SHOULD have been high.

    By the way I'm 70 and still working on this stuff !

    Good luck,
  • needtrackrhelpneedtrackrhelp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 tracker and it is doing the same thing I was wondering what exactly the Cam postion sensor is and how much it cost to replace it.
  • tim54tim54 Member Posts: 2
    Hate to tell you that I have no idea what the Cam Position sensor is. However, I do know that I just had mine replaced - even though the mechanic told me he couldn't guarantee that it would fix the problem - and it seems to have done the trick. I am now driving my tracker and it hasn't stopped yet. It is expensive, it cost me $260.00 for the sensor and an additional $75.00 to replace it.

    Hope this helps. I did NOT go through a dealership, as my Tracker is a 2000 and has 150,000 miles on it. Since yours is a 2003, you may want to take it to a dealership.
  • tracker99tracker99 Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Tracker just started doing this a couple of weeks ago once outdoor temperatures started hitting the 90s (F).

    It only does it sporadically, though. I've also left it idling in park and it's died a few times and then it does the 'spit and sputter' ordeal again trying to get it started.

    When it first happened, I thought the timing belt had slipped or broken. But, after about 10 minutes, it started right up and worked fine the rest of the evening. A couple of days later, in the heat of the afternoon, it started the 'spit and sputter' deal again. This time, I thought maybe it was some bad gas or water in the tank. Put some gas treatment in and it worked -- again -- for a couple of days with no problem.

    I scheduled a visit to the shop for it last Friday to be dropped off over night on Monday. BUT, it went all the way from last Thursday through the weekend and most of Monday with no further problem. So, I cancelled the trip to the shop. Would you know it!? Monday night it started acting up again.

    Now, I read this thread and I'm pretty well convinced it must be this CAM Position Sensor that's been mentioned. I'm in and out of the car a lot and decided to try raising the hood of the car between trips. So far, [knock on wood] that seems to have prevented any further episode throughout this past evening.

    BTW, it's been HOT-HOT here in Metro Atlanta, GA -- 100+ F day after day.

    So, just how sure should I be that the CAM Pos Sensor is the culprit? Advanced Auto has one onhand for $164 +/- plus tax. I know I can change it out myself, but would hate to spend this much money and it not be the fix I need.

    Cheers for any reply and further suggestions.
  • vtfarmboyvtfarmboy Member Posts: 10
    I dont know if this will help or not. i have a 2000 tracker. About every 40 thousand miles or so i have to replace the coils on it. Might try that if the engine has a few miles on it. They just seem to quit after a while. Once the spark plug blew clear out of the cylinder block i had to retap it to put a new one in.
  • grouchofieldsgrouchofields Member Posts: 4
    I have owned a 1999 Tracker for about a year and it has about 89k miles on it. You say that you have to replace the coils on it every 40k miles or so. Are we talking about what appear to be the spark plug leads?
    I have a problem that just started yesterday where the car just would not start -- the starter motor would not engage -- although the idiot lights all work, along with headlights, etc. In desperation I disconnected the battery, let it sit for about 10 minutes, and re-connected it. The starter motor and engine did crank but it seemed to do so very slowly, kind of like what you would expect when the battery was about to shoot craps. I was able to drive the vehicle home and it started a second time, but on the third attempt it once again would not crank over. I took the battery to an auto parts store and it checked out fine. Does anyone have any idea what to try next?
    Thanks, GF.
  • toad44toad44 Member Posts: 2
  • quig13quig13 Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Tracker with 48K on it had the same problem. The local garage tried twice and failed to fix it. I read your message and put in a new crankshaft sensor. The car starts every time now, and it runs smoother when hot. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    Hi there,
    My past massages dealt with me breaking the timing chain and trashing my engine in my 2001 Tracker. I have since replaced the engine with a low mileage, wrecking yard engine. The engine has run good and has performed well, up until now...
    It began one day recently, when it was rather hot.
    I had stopped for gas and when I got in an re-started it, it acted like it was out-of-timing and trying to kick backwards. Finally after letting it set 10 minutes or so, it started and ran smoothly???
    Well, it has gotten progressively worse.
    Last week, it was a hot day, I got stuck in stop & go traffic and it sputtered and coughed and stopped. After letting it set for 5/10 minutes, it started, ran smoothly and I was able to get out of the stop & go mess.
    It happened again this last Saturday, after driving about 50/60 miles, it coughed and stopped running. Again, Let it set 5/10 minutes, it started right up and I continued my trip without a problem.
    It appears to me that it is the Cam Sensor problem you folks have been mentioning.
    MY QUESTION IS: Is the Cam Sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does the timing have to be set by it? (Like a old Distributor required?)
    Also, the AutoZone inexpensive replacement, is it a quality-built replacement part, or junk?
    By the way, my 2001 Tracker has 230,000+ miles on it and is still tracking on! (except for this minor glitch!)
  • lawaimikelawaimike Member Posts: 4
    Aloha! I have the same problem in my wife's 2003 Tracker. My mechanic couldn't find the prob, so I just took out the thermostat while we looked some more, and the car runs fine except when it heats up, when she runs the a/c or we try to go up into the mountains. Short term fix.
  • trinajotrinajo Member Posts: 3

    I notice you that you said your wife had a 2003 tracker, When did she start having problems with it? I am curious as well because my 2003 Tracker started spurtering & and basically dies, takes about 20 minutes before it can start again. Its been in and out of shops and supposely driven by other people .... I am to the point I feel like i am losing my mind. I been dealing with this slight problem for a year!!!! Its scary when it happens in a intersection turning area.

  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    You need to go back to the main page, there is a whole category on "Chevy Tracker Starting and Stalling Problems". I have posted a message asking a question and so far no-one's answered me???
    Here is my message:
    It began one day recently, when it was rather hot.
    I had stopped for gas and when I got in an re-started it, it acted like it was out-of-timing and trying to kick backwards. Finally after letting it set 10 minutes or so, it started and ran smoothly???
    Well, it has gotten progressively worse.
    Last week, it was a hot day, I got stuck in stop & go traffic and it sputtered and coughed and stopped. After letting it set for 5/10 minutes, it started, ran smoothly and I was able to get out of the stop & go mess.
    It happened again this last Saturday, after driving about 50/60 miles, it coughed and stopped running. Again, Let it set 5/10 minutes, it started right up and I continued my trip without a problem.
    It appears to me that it is the Cam Sensor problem you folks have been mentioning.
    MY QUESTION IS: Is the Cam Sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does the timing have to be set by it? (Like a old Distributor required?)
    Also, the AutoZone inexpensive replacement, is it a quality-built replacement part, or junk?
    By the way, my 2001 Tracker has 230,000+ miles on it and is still tracking on! (except for this minor glitch!)
    As a follow-up, I took the advise from a previous post...

    when I stop after driving for awhile, I have to open the hood and pour water over the Cam Sensor to cool it off. I get back in and it cranks right up like nothings wrong.

    I know it is the problem, but I need to know if it just a bolt-on replacement, or do you have to set the timing with it?
    (In other words, can I do it myself, or does it require a mechanic with timing equipment?)

    Hope this helps you figure out your problem.
    I still need an answer???
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    Hi There!
    I guess you didn't see my message where I ask some questions about replacing the Cam Sensor?

    What I need to know:
    1. Is the sensor just a bolt-on replacement, or does it require setting the timing again? Any special tools?
    2. Not being familiar with the Cam Sensor, is it the bolt-on part, just behind the valve cover, on top, rear of engine, or is it just one of the plug-in leads hooked to that part?
    3. Is the AutoZone Replacement good quality, or just junk?
    4. if junk, where is the least expensive source to find it?

    I would appreciate some brief instructions on the replacement of the Cam Sensor, thus saving me the Mechanic's outrageous costs.
    If you can provide an answer, this is something I need to fix right away, as the hot weather is hitting now. (Tired of having to pour water on sensor to cool it down, after stopping in stop 'n' go traffic!)
  • trinajotrinajo Member Posts: 3
    Hey just got your message. I took the easy way out and had the dealership to replace the cam sensor and another part. They kept telling me nothing was wrong and of course i kept insisting that they drive it. TO my luck my car messed up on them.

    If you want email me at [email protected] and I can locate my sheet that the dealership did on my car and give you more information.
  • jeanlwardjeanlward Member Posts: 1
    okay my tracker wont start went to the movies in jan. came back out it started and cut right of never to start again. when i crank it turns over but dose not fire up. one mechanic said it was the crank sensor which is located near the cranck shaft and he would have to move the engine or tansmission to get to it. another one said it is the cam sensor. which could it be please help. :sick:
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for the reply, sorry to take so long in answering. I haven't checked in for awhile.
    Anyway, still having the problem with the cam sensor...
    On real hot days, like now, it quits on me. I pour water over the cam sensor and cool it down, then it starts right up and I continue my trip.
    I really need to get answers to my questions in my previous post. I have to fix it myself, or find a inexpensive mechanic to do it. ( a Joke :>) )
    Any help and info will be appreciated.

    Sam Nicholson
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    I'm having problems with my cam sensor also, so I would check that out first.
    (The least expensive of two evils!!!)
    Also, have the spark plug coils checked out, I had them mess up on mine.
    I'm not sure that is what they are called, but they are located above each spark plug and supply the spark to the plugs. (one for each plug.)
    Pulling the engine/trans apart would be a last resort.
  • kylbornkylborn Member Posts: 2
    I thought I would put in my 2 cents. I have a 2001 Tracker 2.0L with around 60k miles and I have been having the same trouble (Engine hard to start when hot and stalls when idling too long). My car has been in the shop since Monday (today is Thursday). It was tough for the mechanic to troubleshoot, but he seems confident that it is the camshaft sensor assembly. Sounds like it is going to cost me a little over $500 for parts and labor. Maybe I'm getting ripped off, but I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I didn't find this forum until he told me it might be the camshaft sensor assembly.
  • trinajotrinajo Member Posts: 3
    I have my car fix for about a month let me pull out what they did .. one of them was a cam sensor and there was something else that went wrong.. I will try to get back on the chat board to tell you what they did to fix my car.

  • tiso_ustiso_us Member Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    This is my first post. I have a 1998 chevrolet tracker that has 127,890 miles, 16 valve,1.6 liter engine. ran good until one day my daughter drove it to the minute mart, she got back in to start it, would not start.

    I went and got the car and brought it to the house. I checked the fuel line including the fuel filter....all OK. I checked the timing and replaced the timing belt(wore out). checked the spark on spark plugs...yellow spark, it tries to start when I try and hold the peddle half way, pushing the peddle to the floor floods it. I also checked vacu hoses and nothing seems out of place. Thank you in advance.
  • tiso_ustiso_us Member Posts: 2
    I need to make some corrections. first off spark plug had a bright white spark, not a yellow spark, this was based on someones word until I checked it out myself.

    I did a compression check on the no.1 cyl and the no. 4 cyl. no.1 had 105 and no.4 had 97, do not have an idea what these cyl are on compression.readings.

    The fuel pump's ok and getting fuel to the carb. took the plug wires off(1 and 2), and cranked the engine, than took two of the spark plugs out(1 and 2), no gas or gas smell but had oil on the no.1 plug, and on the no.2 plug I had a faint smell of gas and oil covered plug.

    I am suspecting bad or clogged fuel injectors. your thoughts please. thank you.
  • george114george114 Member Posts: 10
    Sounds like the alternator may be going bad, thus not keeping the battery at full charge.
  • playpalplaypal Member Posts: 1
    It would not turn over. A friend who works at a Chevy garage came to look at it before taking to his home for repairs. I told him that the man who came to jump the car, said he thought it was the belt, chain or the spark plugs. The car sounded like it was turning over like a rolling barrel with no spark and not starting. Not grinding, it just needed some OOMPH. Anyway, the friend fixed the problem for 200.00. It was in the place where the spark plugs are. ( dont ask, I dont know the name of this stuff) The oil had GUNKED up around the stuff and there was no compression. or very little. He said the Trackers and the Cobalts have little holes where the oil goes thru. He said if I had taken the car to the dealership, they would have shipped out the transmission or where the plugs are and would have charged me with 600.00. So he used a jug of cleaning stuff, put new oil in and new plugs. My car sat for 8 days while I was on vacation. Time for the oil to gunk up. It has 83,000 miles and I DO changed the oil regularly. This time it may have gone over the regualr time. Hope I have helped someone with the vague explaination from this woman.
  • arkainzeyearkainzeye Member Posts: 473
    if you change your oil regularly and it gunked up from sitting for 8 days i want to know what kind of oil you use. I have my same oil in my 2.5litre tracker for 11 months now and i sometimes dont drive it for 2-3 weeks at a time. But i am using synthetic oil. I change it once a year and oil filters every 6 months.. Btw do a google search for (autorx) since you were talking about engine gunk... 8)
  • daveomdaveom Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Chevy Tracker, 2liter, 4door, fuel injected with 60k miles. It works great most of the time. sometimes after driving for a while and stopping for a few minutes it will not start, it turns over tries to start but cant. If I leave it for 5 to 10 minutes and try again it starts and runs good.
    Anybody got any ideas!
  • daveomdaveom Member Posts: 3
    Hey, I am having the exact same problem with my wifes 2003 4door 2liter Tracker. Did replacing the Cam Sensor fix your Tracker? Were you able to do it yourself? And was it expensive?
  • greene709greene709 Member Posts: 2
    Hello All. I have a 2002 Chevy Tracker 2.0 L 4wd automatic transmission. It has about 70,000 KMs. Sometimes when I drive it, regardless of weather, it will stall when I am slowing down to take a turn or stopping. When it stalls it'll restart but then the RPMs drop to 0 and it stalls again. If I leave it for 15 minutes it'll start and stay going. It may go weeks without stalling, but I can't trust it enough to drive in the city. If I keep my foot on the gas I can keep it going. I have had it to 5 different garages and nobody can pinpoint the problem. It isn't throwing any codes. EGR is fine, and I also had a new O2 sensor put on. I had a new catalytic converter put on before, and a new starter. I am going out of my mind. All mechanics seemed convinced its not a fuel pump or filter. Throttle valve is fine. HELP!
  • tracker3tracker3 Member Posts: 2
    sounds like vapor lock, fuel pump, like on the older cars.
  • tracker3tracker3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 tracker, 2.0 engine 4wheel drive automatic with 36.000k, it started to stall on me 2 or 3 times while I was driving but i kept it running by pumping the gas peddle. then one day my wife came home after running some errands. when i tried to start it later it wouldn't start, one mechanic couldn't fix it, the other one i took it to put a timing chain on it and it runs fine.
  • greene709greene709 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I'll call my mechanic!!
  • claudiucetclaudiucet Member Posts: 4
    I did go trough these messages posted on this forum and everybody is mentioning the camshaft sensor responsible for the stalling and stopping when the engine is getting warm.Somebody can give me an ideea were is located,and how much will cost ?Thank you!
  • lawaimikelawaimike Member Posts: 4
    To Claudiucet,
    The sensor on my 2003 Tracker is at the firewall, top of the valve cover. It's about 3 inches in diameter. I had my mechanic buy it and put it in, as it has to be adjusted correctly when installed. He is expensive, I know, and charged me 450 bucks, but that is because of where we are in the middle of nowhere. I had read of the same thing costing about 250. It works fine, no more stalling.
  • claudiucetclaudiucet Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your response ...really appreciated...the scary part is to buy the part!Very hepful your respose!
  • snicholsnichol Member Posts: 28
    I replaced my cam sensor about 3 monrths ago...
    ... cost me $98.00 at AutoZone. It does need to be adjusted, but may reduce the cost if you install yourself and have the Mech. adjust it.
    (You might want to do it with the Mech. close by, as it may not run properly if it isn't installed close to the same setting as the old one.)
    There are a bunch of messages concerning this problem, if you do a search in any category with Trackers in it and use my name, snichol, you will see a history about it.
    Hope it helps.
  • randipants76randipants76 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 2000 Tracker 2-dr 1.6L with 4WD. Mileage is 70K. Purchased this car about 4 months ago with only 63K on it and I believe most of the miles were from being pulled behind an RV. Car was in excellent working condition.

    The car has not given me a single problem until last week. I parked the car in the garage and went on vacation. Car was parked for about 4 days and a friend started the car up and it ran fine, but she didn't drive it. I returned from vacation 3 days later and the car won't start. It has full power and tries to turn over but sort of "coughs" (for a lack of a better word) and won't start. I checked the fluids and the antifreeze and radiator appear full and normal. Oil was low so I added a quart. It was suggested I add the gas additive "heat" to the fuel so I did, in an attempt to void any moisture in the gas tank. Upon opening the fuel cap, there was a lot of pressure released. Battery water level is normal and power appears to be full when I turn the key to the "on" position.

    I wasn't sure if perhaps the weather temperature had anything to do with this problem. Temperature dropped to around 30 degrees, but the car was garaged the entire time. Anyone have any other ideas as to what might cause the car to not turn over?

    Thanks so much for your help.
    Randi in Seattle, WA
  • babyboy17450babyboy17450 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Geo Tracker that started one day and after returning to it to go home, it just wouldn't start. People have took me that it might be the crankshaft sensor or the cam sensor. I been to Advance Auto, Auto Zone and NAPA and they both don't list either part for a 1994 Geo Tracker. They all said that I would have to buy the whole Distributor because both parts are in it. Please some one, anyone tell me what to do to get this tracker started.
  • dragonaz101dragonaz101 Member Posts: 4
    hi, i have a 97 geo tracker and i had a problem similar to yours. I drove it fine, stopped to drop son off at school, shut car off and poof wouldn't start. I had full power just no crank, no cough, no nothing....found out that the plug for the starter sensor had come unplugged (major road construction..alot of bumps). If you look for the starter it will look like kind of a needle attatched to a wire, just plug it back in, and poof should least mine did. The only problem is, that since the incident my service engine light came on, and now i have to replace the EGR valve..hope this helps, good luck
  • trackertrevtrackertrev Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem. Can you let me know if you got your problem solved and how?

  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    My daughter was driving on I-95 coming home from Va. and waiting to pay her toll and the Tracker stopped and would not start for a 1/2 hour. It then started and she drove home without a problem. At times it will just randomly stop after driving and then start after 10 minutes. I have had it to 2 dealerships and they could find nothing wrong. Last week after dropping off for an oil change the garage called her and asked her if she had a problem and she told them to wait 10 minutes and it will be ok...and it was. However, very annoying and will try this cam shaft senor solution. Thanks to all. Tracker is a 2000, with 75,000 miles on it and aside from this, runs great.
  • chipmunk85chipmunk85 Member Posts: 1
    hey has anyone heard what the recall for a 2003 chevy tracker is?
  • lawaimikelawaimike Member Posts: 4
    I solved that intermittent engine shut off problem by having a new cam position sensor switch installed. I had my mechanic do it, and the cost was almost $400.00 for everything, but that was 6 months ago and I haven't had any problem since. I am in Hawaii, and everything is expensive here, you should be able to get it done for much less. The switch alone is about $100.00. In the meantime, take out the thermostat or have that done, and that should keep the engine cooler unless you are idling or in heavy slow traffic. I have heard that if you get stuck, you can slowly pour about a liter of water directly on the switch and that will get you going again right away. The switch will be on the top of the engine, at the back right against the firewall, usually a black plastic color. Good luck
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